Home-owners...What are your current projects? (1 Viewer)

[doowain]

Could it have to do with mold, maybe? Not letting things dry out?

Yeah, possibly.  That would make sense as they told us not to water the lawn unless the sun was out (I always thought it was the other way around) because it wouldn't dry and could cause mold.

 

[The Commish]

I've used one of those too - I think mine is called a "Gator Bag."  They work fine too.  I guess I just found it easier to leave the hose run across my lawn and just turn it on as needed vs. dragging the hose out and filling it up all the time.  My trees were 200'+ from the nearest faucet though. 

I always forgot to turn the water off  

 

[The Commish]

We just moved into our home in January that we built.  I was cleaning out a drawer (the "junk" drawer that the builder left all of the appliance manuals, etc in) and came across the instructions from the landscaping company that did our house.  In the watering details, they said to NOT leave a hose on the tree or "trickle water" it at all.  They said that newly planted trees MUST be given direct stream watering (meaning hard stream).  Not sure why, but that's what it said.  These aren't juvenile trees (our river birch is 14 ft) so maybe there is a difference in care for that reason.  I dunno.

ETA:  This was the first I'd ever heard of where trickle watering was discouraged.  Anyone know why that may be?

Could be because of your soil...if it's clay, drip won't do much good.  Have to give it a lot of water in a short amount of time.  Problem is, it takes 5-10 minutes to water that way...lots of water AND let it soak in is a PITA.

 

[Johnny Rock]

So in the process of getting our basement finished.  I contracted out for most of it.  I'm handling all the techie stuff (Home Theater, networking, etc).  Since we're doing it, we were going to have a water filtration system installed too.  When the plumber looked at our well pressure tank, he noted some rust spots on it and recommended we replace it.  I tend to agree with him, BUT, I feel like the price he quoted is bananas high.  $2,500 to remove the old 47 gallon pressure tank and replace it.  How can it cost that much?  The tanks are only like $300...can't cost more than $700 to put that it.  Call it an even $1,000.  Has anyone had this done recent?

Seems insane $ to me. Ask him to break down his quote into materials and labor. Expand on that by asking him to walk you through the job with an explanation. 

For sure get at least one more quote, but barring a crazy reason I can't think of, this sounds like a good DIY. 

 

[The Commish]

What type of tree if you don't mind me asking?  I'm just starting to try and figure out what kind of trees seem to have issues and why, so I'm curious.

I have a purple plum that's getting destroyed by Japanese Beetles, and a flowering cherry that consistently has some kind of leaf fungus.  I started treating both this year - The plum looks as bad as it did last year - 2/3 of leaves are full of holes.  The cherry still has its leaves, but they're full of yellow spots - it's an improvement as last year by this time, the leaves would be mostly gone.

FWIW...we had a weeping cherry.  The only way I was successful in combating fungus on that sum-um-a-biotch was to do it systemically and treat the tree and soil throughout the year (even during dormant times).  I won't have another one in my yard.  WAY too much effort for my lazy ###.

 

[doowain]

Could be because of your soil...if it's clay, drip won't do much good.  Have to give it a lot of water in a short amount of time.  Problem is, it takes 5-10 minutes to water that way...lots of water AND let it soak in is a PITA.

That would be it.  In Ohio and there is a ####-ton of clay in the soil.

 

[The Commish]

That would be it.  In Ohio and there is a ####-ton of clay in the soil.

That's definitely it.  We were in Cincy for 4ish years.  The only shot we had at having trees live in our yard there was digging a hole about 3 times the size of the root ball (or bucket the tree came in) and filling it partially with legit soil.  It was then that they had a fighting chance.  If we just dug a hole planted and didn't amend the soil everything died.

 

[mphtrilogy]

Seal 125' of driveway

stain two decks

install two gutters/liters on garage

paint daughters bedroom

coach daughters fall softball team

 

[Binky The Doormat]

I had the local university do it for me.  Like $15 a shot (I did 3 samples).  I then had this forum analyze the results and make specific recommendations.

This site (fbg.com) is a bunch of people way too interested in fantasy football.  This other site is the equivalent, but for lawns

http://aroundtheyard.com/forum.html

They want you to use their lab so they can interpret it easily, so you should do that.  They are a little more expensive, but at $25 a sample very reasonable if it makes your lawn maintenance-free

http://www.loganlabs.com/get-started.html

Nice people over there




 

Thanks - I did a self test kit and it said I was ok.  

I think most local county extension offices will test - but my local said it would take 5-6 weeks.  

 

[wilked]

Local counties will test pH.  That is not sufficient.  I will post a screenshot of my results as an example

 

[wilked]

http://i67.tinypic.com/331n76o.png

 

[Fat Nick]

FWIW...we had a weeping cherry.  The only way I was successful in combating fungus on that sum-um-a-biotch was to do it systemically and treat the tree and soil throughout the year (even during dormant times).  I won't have another one in my yard.  WAY too much effort for my lazy ###.

Must be something with cherries.  I've been treating with THIS in a tank sprayer.  Part of my problem is my sprayer doesn't have enough pressure to reach up to the very top, so I doubt my coverage is great.  

When you treated, what were you using as far as fungicide and applicator?  Once you treated throughout the year, were you eventually able to just stop and it didn't come back, or was it just a recurring thing you always had to do?

 

[The Commish]

Must be something with cherries.  I've been treating with THIS in a tank sprayer.  Part of my problem is my sprayer doesn't have enough pressure to reach up to the very top, so I doubt my coverage is great.  

When you treated, what were you using as far as fungicide and applicator?  Once you treated throughout the year, were you eventually able to just stop and it didn't come back, or was it just a recurring thing you always had to do?

I used a combo of things....I started with maxide systemic fungicide, but it was hard to get local, so I switched to the systemic bayer product in combination with some granules sprinkled into the soil.  I forget the name of that stuff though.  I had hardly any success with topical sprays.  The combo was most successful.  I will also say that with cherry trees, leaves turning yellow isn't always a sign of fungus.  It's also a sign of heat stress so if your tree is in direct sun all day, that might be part of it.

 

[Fat Nick]

I used a combo of things....I started with maxide systemic fungicide, but it was hard to get local, so I switched to the systemic bayer product in combination with some granules sprinkled into the soil.  I forget the name of that stuff though.  I had hardly any success with topical sprays.  The combo was most successful.  I will also say that with cherry trees, leaves turning yellow isn't always a sign of fungus.  It's also a sign of heat stress so if your tree is in direct sun all day, that might be part of it.

Thanks - was reading some more, and it sounds like Cherry Leaf Spot.  I think one of my challenges is I have a big rug juniper covering about 1/2 of the area under the cherry tree.  Apparently the fungus lives on the dead leaves, and comes back every spring.  I've been trying to clean out the bed very thoroughly each fall, but it's hard to get up under that juniper.  Maybe the granules will kill it on the fallen leaves.  My Cherry is in full sun, but the way it spots up, and the timing of the spots really points to leaf spot.

 

[The Commish]

I used a combo of things....I started with maxide systemic fungicide, but it was hard to get local, so I switched to the systemic bayer product in combination with some granules sprinkled into the soil.  I forget the name of that stuff though.  I had hardly any success with topical sprays.  The combo was most successful.  I will also say that with cherry trees, leaves turning yellow isn't always a sign of fungus.  It's also a sign of heat stress so if your tree is in direct sun all day, that might be part of it.

Thanks - was reading some more, and it sounds like Cherry Leaf Spot.  I think one of my challenges is I have a big rug juniper covering about 1/2 of the area under the cherry tree.  Apparently the fungus lives on the dead leaves, and comes back every spring.  I've been trying to clean out the bed very thoroughly each fall, but it's hard to get up under that juniper.  Maybe the granules will kill it on the fallen leaves.  My Cherry is in full sun, but the way it spots up, and the timing of the spots really points to leaf spot.

Those are probably two of the most temperamental plants you can have with each other <_<  

They Bayer product I mentioned above ( I think it mentions trees and shrubs in the title...I'd have to look) will work on the junipers also.  You do have to rake that crap out, but if you can minimize the fungus in the spring by spraying early and often, you have a fighting chance.  Good luck GB!!!

 

[downanddistance]

Has anyone installed a Velux Sun Tube Skylight DIY? 

http://www.veluxusa.com/products/sun-tunnels

 Watched a few youtube videos on it.  Seems pretty straightforward.  Still.... fall is coming soon and that is hunting season so this one may get hired out.

 

[wilked]

I checked some installation vids out as well (likely putting one in on our 3rd floor renovation)

My roof pitch is way to severe for me to think about it, but it does look very easy.  I would go for it if I were you.

 

[Fat Nick]

Has anyone installed a Velux Sun Tube Skylight DIY? 

http://www.veluxusa.com/products/sun-tunnels

 Watched a few youtube videos on it.  Seems pretty straightforward.  Still.... fall is coming soon and that is hunting season so this one may get hired out.

I had a friend who worked for another brand, solatube, for years.  I didn't realize there was another company doing this.  I always wanted to try them, but they never made sense for our house.

 

[VA703]

I was out weed eating around the house & fence this weekend. its been a while so it was like a foot or so high ive been lazy + its been hot. I noticed a line of ants (small black ones not carpenter) walking around the house. They had a line wrapping around 3/4 the house I was like wtf. I havnt seen any ants inside but curious as hell what they were up to. I traced the path from a key spot to the yard back into my flowerbed it was a huge ### operation. looks like they have a nest where my foundation meets the siding & they're going behind the siding. also I never noticed this spot before but it appears the previous homeowner made some type of cement repair ill have to check that out later.

so I went to youtube and found a cheap way to kill them all.

get a old spray bottle.

borac acid

sugar

honey

water

heat up some water maybe a cup

mix 6 tbsp. borac acid

5 tbsp. sugar

2 tsp honey

mix all 4 until its all dissolved, let it cool down. transfer to spray and apply to ant walking path. come back later and they're all gone  my kid enjoyed this too was good times.

 

[wilked]

Could use a hand with this...

I am renovation / finishing our third floor / attic space.  As part of the project we are adding central air, which will send air to the 2nd and 3rd floor (not the first).  I am spray foaming the rafters / walls.  The home is in New England.

The house is heated today by a gas boiler, single pipe system to radiators.  Thermostat is on first floor.  It works well.

I need to figure out how to heat the third floor.  

Option 1 - send steam pipes to 3rd floor, add radiators.  Probably cheapest install.  I believe the boiler is sized big enough...  Boiler is 82% efficient so not the highest (but it is somewhat new).  I am definitely worried about 'balancing' the system with this method, and general control.  The 3rd floor will be a spare bedroom / family room, so not necessarily constant use, so I don't want to be heating it 100% of the time.

Option 2 - Add heat pump to central air.  On all but the coldest days in New England should still be able to use this fairly well.  The question again is about control and balancing.  I was only planning to do a single zone on central air, which works fine in the summer but for heating the system might 'fight' with the boiler when controlling.  Maybe I am more worried than I need to be though - perhaps the boiler provides a 'baseline' level of heat for first/second floors, and heat pump uses that baseline and 'tunes in' some more heat to satisfy temp on 2nd/3rd floor.  

I am also considering installing baseboard electric on third floor as 'supplemental' to the above options, just to give me additional flexibility (and it's cheap).  That way if the above options don't control the temp that well up there I can always supplement a bit / dial in a good temp on those really cold days when we are up there.

What would you guys do?  I have had a few people out and they all seem to have different opinions, none of them all that confident in my opinion.  Is there a plumber / HVAC forum I should post this?

 

[Nugget]

PSA:  When using a paint sprayer, use googles and a mask.  I look like a coke fiend and I am spitting primer.

 

[The Commish]

PSA:  When using a paint sprayer, use googles and a mask.  I look like a coke fiend and I am spitting primer.

Goggles are a pretty good tool in that circumstance as well  

 

[rascal]

Our kitchen has the recessed can lights, and recently I saw some square recessed lights at a house for sale.  Anybody know how to convert?

Saw something like this...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-3-in-White-Recessed-Lighting-Square-Baffle-Trim-3011WHWB/100646902

 

[belljr]

Our kitchen has the recessed can lights, and recently I saw some square recessed lights at a house for sale.  Anybody know how to convert?

Saw something like this...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-3-in-White-Recessed-Lighting-Square-Baffle-Trim-3011WHWB/100646902

You need to know your can model. It's in the can. And size. 3" or 4".

The square baffle will fit those. If you have old ones you may need new cans

 

[bigmarc27]

My wife has this old dresser that she got from her grandmother. It's not the best quality wood and one of the drawers fell of, but it holds sentimental value. I'm going to pull the drawers, sand the entire thing down, then lacquer the #### out of it and make it a tv stand. 

Heres my question. The wood is not the best and has that plasticky shine to it. Will it still sand down properly?  

 

[Dan Lambskin]

Finally finished building storage cabinets/laundry folding counter in the basement 

Craftsmanship isn't perfect but wife is happy with it

http://imgur.com/oPzWOZK

 

[captain_amazing]

Just removed our 90s style track lighting in the living room and installed six 6" recessed lighting cans.  Looking pretty nice on the dimmer.

 

[Quez]

or marble, like all of my richie-rich clients.

and then be prepared to see very water drop for the rest of your life... even after sealing twice a year. (but that's what the housekeeper is for, right?)

I like granite- prefer the natural feel and look of it to caesarstone/etc... but the latter is really hassle-free. I haven't seen any long-term maintenance issues with granite either- but it's a little bit more work.

I'm looking at getting new counter tops, and was considering marble.  My buddy owns a stone shop and was telling me with the "lifetime sealers" they do one time after installing, it makes the stain resistance comparable to granite. The only thing you have to worry about is etching, but that's the same with granite.  He said the Carrera has been selling like crazy, and recommended it.  So far it has come it $500 cheaper than the 2-3 whitish granites we like.  Should I be steering clear of marble?

 

[Uruk-Hai]

I'm looking at getting new counter tops, and was considering marble.  My buddy owns a stone shop and was telling me with the "lifetime sealers" they do one time after installing, it makes the stain resistance comparable to granite. The only thing you have to worry about is etching, but that's the same with granite.  He said the Carrera has been selling like crazy, and recommended it.  So far it has come it $500 cheaper than the 2-3 whitish granites we like.  Should I be steering clear of marble?

Go quartz, baby

 

[Quez]

Go quartz, baby

I liked the look of quartz but it's more expensive, and they say not as heat resistant as natural Stone.  Also, I heard the resins can discolor over time, and part of the counter stretches outside to the pool deck. 

 

[Uruk-Hai]

I liked the look of quartz but it's more expensive, and they say not as heat resistant as natural Stone.  Also, I heard the resins can discolor over time, and part of the counter stretches outside to the pool deck. 

Yeah, mine is completely inside so I have no clue what the elements would do to it. Quartz is more expensive than granite, but not by a lot and it doesn't need periodic sealing. 

 

[Uruk-Hai]

I have a deck off the upstairs of my house, and I'd really like to figure out a way to make it so it doesn't allow rainfall to drip through. It's just a regular deck with beams and a half inch or so between them. So far my options seem to be put some sort of corrugated metal below the deck (which is sub-optimal because there's a few beams and whatnot that would be in the way) or to put some sort of solid flooring on top of the deck that is designed for that. Any ideas? 

I don't understand the bolded as a deterrent. Can you share a picture?

 

[Osaurus]

Has anyone installed a Velux Sun Tube Skylight DIY? 

http://www.veluxusa.com/products/sun-tunnels

 Watched a few youtube videos on it.  Seems pretty straightforward.  Still.... fall is coming soon and that is hunting season so this one may get hired out.

I had a friend who worked for another brand, solatube, for years.  I didn't realize there was another company doing this.  I always wanted to try them, but they never made sense for our house.

Something I'm looking at for my house.  

 

[Quez]

I have a deck off the upstairs of my house, and I'd really like to figure out a way to make it so it doesn't allow rainfall to drip through. It's just a regular deck with beams and a half inch or so between them. So far my options seem to be put some sort of corrugated metal below the deck (which is sub-optimal because there's a few beams and whatnot that would be in the way) or to put some sort of solid flooring on top of the deck that is designed for that. Any ideas? 

Roof over the top deck?

 

[wilked]

https://goo.gl/photos/YYhAGbm6Q6XqXzXN7

I think you want something below (sloped) to collect the rain runoff, and direct it somewhere via downspouts

That corrugated metal might work

 

[B Maverick]

so many things I need to do.  Some I will have to pay someone to do, some I want to do but am afraid I will need to pay someone to fix what I effed up. Some are a wish list, some will need to be done.

New roof being finished today.  Next up is painting the eaves and maybe the house and then updating two bathrooms and a kitchen.  Also need to repair and build up the back wall.  

I want to try and install a ground level deck in 2 locations, front yard and side yard.  Hope to do it myself.

Near future update carpets and wood flooring inside, put in a planter box around the back yard.  Living in SoCal I would love to go to turf in the back and replace the front grass with drought tolerant plants. Lower water usage.

 

[tonydead]

I have a deck off the upstairs of my house, and I'd really like to figure out a way to make it so it doesn't allow rainfall to drip through. It's just a regular deck with beams and a half inch or so between them. So far my options seem to be put some sort of corrugated metal below the deck (which is sub-optimal because there's a few beams and whatnot that would be in the way) or to put some sort of solid flooring on top of the deck that is designed for that. Any ideas? 

Second level decks are the worst, especially where we live.  The problem with anything you put underneath to collect and divert is going to get clogged and need regular cleaning.  I think the best bet is a roof or awning up above.

 

[KCitons]

Second level decks are the worst, especially where we live.  The problem with anything you put underneath to collect and divert is going to get clogged and need regular cleaning.  I think the best bet is a roof or awning up above.

I was thinking the same thing. Debris would fall down between the decking and pile up on the corrugated metal 

Maybe create a frame for the metal and hinge it on one side. Or hinge the metal in the middle? (if it takes more than one piece of metal to span the width of the deck) That way you could drop one side and hose off the debris every year or so. 

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Second level decks are the worst, especially where we live.  The problem with anything you put underneath to collect and divert is going to get clogged and need regular cleaning.  I think the best bet is a roof or awning up above.

I have a similar set up. I put a roof over my deck a couple of years ago, but not so much to keep the rain off of the lower-level patio as to give some relief on the deck itself. It's on the west side of the house and is brutal in summer afternoons. I guess it helps a little on the lower level patio - if the rain's coming straight down - but, if I really wanted to use that patio for seating when it might be raining, I'd go with a fiberglass or vinyl false roof under the deck and into the downspouts. It won't clog because it's only water dripping between the decking above and I have no trees to throw leaves there.

 

[rascal]

1) I've procrastinated all winter to pick up the leaves, so I'll be doing that this weekend.

2) Will also be redoing the insulation around the front door.  Noticed a draft this past week.

3) Getting quotes for 85 sqft of granite for kitchen countertops.

4) Taxes to afford #3.

 

[B Maverick]

Can any of you suggest a resource for helping to plan building a deck?  Have home depot books and found some sites that show how too, but having trouble trying to figure out what materials and how much I need to do this.  

Basically want to put a ground level 6' x 22' rectangle deck.  Nothing fancy,  Will be on the side of the house for seating and entertaining.  Have the outdoor heater and BBQ and just want something nice in conjunction with the garage that is slowly becoming a mancave....  

 

[wilked]

Can any of you suggest a resource for helping to plan building a deck?  Have home depot books and found some sites that show how too, but having trouble trying to figure out what materials and how much I need to do this.  

Basically want to put a ground level 6' x 22' rectangle deck.  Nothing fancy,  Will be on the side of the house for seating and entertaining.  Have the outdoor heater and BBQ and just want something nice in conjunction with the garage that is slowly becoming a mancave....  

https://www.amazon.com/Building-Deck-Expert-Advice-Tauntons/dp/1561584797

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Can any of you suggest a resource for helping to plan building a deck?  Have home depot books and found some sites that show how too, but having trouble trying to figure out what materials and how much I need to do this.  

Basically want to put a ground level 6' x 22' rectangle deck.  Nothing fancy,  Will be on the side of the house for seating and entertaining.  Have the outdoor heater and BBQ and just want something nice in conjunction with the garage that is slowly becoming a mancave....  

You gonna build it yourself? If so.......

First, check your local jurisdiction's codes.

Second, get a permit (if necessary; I would even if it wasn't required just for my own peace-of-mind and resale optics).

 

[Uruk-Hai]

1) I've procrastinated all winter to pick up the leaves, so I'll be doing that this weekend.

2) Will also be redoing the insulation around the front door.  Noticed a draft this past week.

3) Getting quotes for 85 sqft of granite for kitchen countertops.

4) Taxes to afford #3.

How do you plan on insulating around the door? Be VERY careful with any foam spray!

Granite can be a PITA, as you have (or, should) apply a sealer every so often. Not sure what your budget is, but I'd also look at some of the new high-end laminates and also quartz - stuff you never have to mess with again.

 

[SWC]

yeah do not use great stuff or other expanding foam around windows or doors it can expand so much that it will bend the framing and can make the door or window not seal up right or open and close in the case of sliding window better to pack batt foam insulation in there with a paint scraper take that to the bank brohan

 

[rascal]

How do you plan on insulating around the door? Be VERY careful with any foam spray!

Granite can be a PITA, as you have (or, should) apply a sealer every so often. Not sure what your budget is, but I'd also look at some of the new high-end laminates and also quartz - stuff you never have to mess with again.

It's the weather stripping.

I'll look at the new laminates.  All that sqft is going to be expensive.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

It's the weather stripping.

I'll look at the new laminates.  All that sqft is going to be expensive.

Yeah. I only did about 1/3 of the surface you're doing. I can tell you that the quartz (surfacing over the cut out for the sink) was about $130/sq ft installed. Granite wasn't that much cheaper, but required maintenance. I didn't price the laminates because my area was so small that I could deal with going top-end. Your amount of area would've required much more thought on my part.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

yeah do not use great stuff or other expanding foam around windows or doors it can expand so much that it will bend the framing and can make the door or window not seal up right or open and close in the case of sliding window better to pack batt foam insulation in there with a paint scraper take that to the bank brohan

I've seen that spray crap break glass. I've also seen it split an oak door. As SWC says, use a putty knife or something similar and cram the gaps full of fiberglass

 

[Uruk-Hai]

extra information: We have lots of huge evergreen trees that shed pine needles constantly. No leaves to worry about, but pine needles aplenty. 

You're gonna deal with that all of the time, as long as you live there. Hell, put the under-deck roof in and let the needles just run off of the end of it. They'd be on your deck anyway, so at least they are directed to your yard.

 

[wilked]

You gonna build it yourself? If so.......

First, check your local jurisdiction's codes.

Second, get a permit (if necessary; I would even if it wasn't required just for my own peace-of-mind and resale optics).

permit for a ground-level deck???
 

Unless your neighbors are at risk of dropping a dime on you, skip it.  Absolutely for an elevated one, but waste of time for ground level.  Getting the codes is a good idea tho