Home-owners...What are your current projects? (1 Viewer)

[Fat Nick]

Isn't there stuff you can put on and then "scrape" all that lacquer off?  Or am I thinking of something else?  Saw it on HGTV.

Citristrip.  Never used it personally, but I bet that's what you're thinking of.  It's a gel that you put on it, and then just use a puddy knife to scrape the finish off. 

 

[bigmarc27]

You using a belt sander?

Just an orbital sander. It's making decent progress, just taking awhile. I've got the top done, halfway done with side A. 

The front shoukdnt take long since the drawers are gone. 

 

[Fat Nick]

My wife has a really old dresser from her grandmother. It's been sitting in a guest room forever and on our last move the drawers were damaged. She gave me permission to repurpose it into a tv stand for our bedroom. 

I've started sanding this down because I'm going to stain it really dark, but this is taking forever. There are years and years of lacquer on this thing and I've spent hours sanding already. It's very frustrating. 

So I refinished an old dresser for my son's room - it used to be my wife's grandmother's and had sentimental value too...When I finished sanding it down, we realized the top was a pressboard top, and some of the veneer was REALLY thin.  Staining it would have looked awful.  Not to mention, sometimes if previous finishes got in too deep, the new finishes won't look right.

I'm telling you this just so you consider either painting it (especially if you're going dark, which will hide most of the grain anyway), or at a minimum, maybe using a gel stain vs. an oil/water based stain because that'll sit on top of a lot of the imperfections that you may uncover.

 

[Fat Nick]

You using a belt sander?

Belt sander is waaaay too aggressive for most furniture.  You can burn through veneer in a second.  I'd only do that if you know the piece is 100% solid hardwood (no plywood), and you're OK with really taking it down a lot.

 

[NutterButter]

Belt sander is waaaay too aggressive for most furniture.  You can burn through veneer in a second.  I'd only do that if you know the piece is 100% solid hardwood (no plywood), and you're OK with really taking it down a lot.

bigmarc's wife's grandmother liked nothing but solid hardwood. 

 

[Chaka]

i'm going to pour a test section in my garage in the new few weeks b/c i'm just too damn curious how something like this looks.   i'll report back.   

Since everyone has different standards, is something like this what you're talking about when you say looking like your sidewalk?

Nicer than my sidewalk but close, I guess.

Good luck.

 

[VA703]

So I'm trying to run an Ethernet cable from my living room router up to my bedroom. They share the same wall and there's a coax already up there. See picture for layout

http://imgur.com/UUzckE9

how hard would this be? I'm assuming the wall has insulation inside the studs?

 

[El Floppo]

Concrete isn't exactly cheap.

I've yet to concrete countertops so, I can't speak to the exact price. There's also a few options to consider. Are you doing it yourself? Are doing a concrete overlay or making a preformed slab and installing it? Are you comparing price too lament or quartz and granite? I can't see it being close to the same price range as the latter 2. 

I did this one- IIRC, the concrete counters came in around the same price as marble... not super expensive marble, but sim to a lower end carrara. had to reinforce the cabinet a bit... poured off-site in sections, carted in and installed similar to stone. 

 

[jon_mx]

So I'm trying to run an Ethernet cable from my living room router up to my bedroom. They share the same wall and there's a coax already up there. See picture for layout

http://imgur.com/UUzckE9

how hard would this be? I'm assuming the wall has insulation inside the studs?

I would think there would be some drywall you would have to cut open especially to get from one floor to the next.  Perhaps you could just get away with adding a wireless access point or a second wireless router. 

 

[matttyl]

So I'm trying to run an Ethernet cable from my living room router up to my bedroom. They share the same wall and there's a coax already up there. See picture for layout

http://imgur.com/UUzckE9

how hard would this be? I'm assuming the wall has insulation inside the studs?

Only if it's an exterior wall.  Your issue is the 2x4 at the bottom of the bedroom wall and the 2x4 at the top of the kitchen wall, plus whatever's between then. 

 

[VA703]

I would think there would be some drywall you would have to cut open especially to get from one floor to the next.  Perhaps you could just get away with adding a wireless access point or a second wireless router. 

I can do the wireless no problem. just wanted the hardwire for some reason not sure why now

 

[jon_mx]

I can do the wireless no problem. just wanted the hardwire for some reason not sure why now

I like hardwired to guarantee better performance.  But I could see you poking about 4 holes in your walls to get that wire ran.  Maybe an experienced electrician could do with, but it would take a talent. 

 

[Fat Nick]

I like hardwired to guarantee better performance.  But I could see you poking about 4 holes in your walls to get that wire ran.  Maybe an experienced electrician could do with, but it would take a talent. 

I'm all for hardwire too - wireless WILL fail at some point and is just generally more painful to work with.

I've tried to do what you're doing with an alarm keypad wire - It was a nightmare.  You're much better off cutting some small holes in the drywall to help you.  Should be able to do it with 2 3"x3" squares, one just below the ceiling downstairs, and one just above the floor upstairs - that'll allow you to fish the wire up into the correct stud bay upstairs, and into the correct one downstairs.  If the stud bays aren't lined up one on top of the other, probably add another 3" x 3" square to run it over too.

 

[El Floppo]

Only if it's an exterior wall.  Your issue is the 2x4 at the bottom of the bedroom wall and the 2x4 at the top of the kitchen wall, plus whatever's between then. 

Fwiw, I insulate all interior walls- mostly for sound.

But yeah, sole and head plates plus whatever decking.

 

[El Floppo]

I'm all for hardwire too - wireless WILL fail at some point and is just generally more painful to work with.

I've tried to do what you're doing with an alarm keypad wire - It was a nightmare.  You're much better off cutting some small holes in the drywall to help you.  Should be able to do it with 2 3"x3" squares, one just below the ceiling downstairs, and one just above the floor upstairs - that'll allow you to fish the wire up into the correct stud bay upstairs, and into the correct one downstairs.  If the stud bays aren't lined up one on top of the other, probably add another 3" x 3" square to run it over too.

I'd go bigger with squares... you have to patch fix them regardless, might as well make it big enough to reach your hand in.

 

[Chaka]

I did this one- IIRC, the concrete counters came in around the same price as marble... not super expensive marble, but sim to a lower end carrara. had to reinforce the cabinet a bit... poured off-site in sections, carted in and installed similar to stone. 

Beautiful.  Aren't you a professional contractor with experience doing things like pouring concrete?

 

[Uruk-Hai]

So I'm trying to run an Ethernet cable from my living room router up to my bedroom. They share the same wall and there's a coax already up there. See picture for layout

http://imgur.com/UUzckE9

how hard would this be? I'm assuming the wall has insulation inside the studs?

Is the coax already there running the same path through the walls as you want the ethernet cable to run?

 

[VA703]

Is the coax already there running the same path through the walls as you want the ethernet cable to run?

I'm pretty sure the coax meet somewhere in the wall because they're all endpoints in the basement

 

[Uruk-Hai]

I'm pretty sure the coax meet somewhere in the wall because they're all endpoints in the basement

Ok. Without seeing a map I'm probably just wasting your time so disregard the following if it doesn't apply.

I was thinking if the coax started and ended somewhere in the vicinity of the desired ethernet end-points  - AND the already drilled holes through the 2x4 plates are large enough - there's an old electrician's trick:

Get a spool of string (there are actual tools that do the same with magnets and such, but string works some of the time too), disconnect the existing cable from the upstairs appliance, tie the string to the end of it, and either have someone upstairs hold it or tie it off. Pull the existing cable through to the basement, then tie the new cable to it. Now pull the string and both cables back into the upstairs area. This works best if - as I said - the pass through holes in the plates/floor are drilled large and they are stacked. If it's a snaking path, it's tough.

If you ARE gonna have to cut the sheetrock, I agree with El Floppo - make the cut out as large as you need to. You've gotta patch anyway.

 

[Borden]

I did this one- IIRC, the concrete counters came in around the same price as marble... not super expensive marble, but sim to a lower end carrara. had to reinforce the cabinet a bit... poured off-site in sections, carted in and installed similar to stone. 

Why was it poured off site? And why was it so expensive?

 

[NutterButter]

Why was it poured off site? And why was it so expensive?

That price includes the architects fees.  Those guys charge a fortune.

 

[Borden]

That price includes the architects fees.  Those guys charge a fortune.

Hahahaha. Has to make up those bandwidth charges from hanging out on message boards. 

 

[Mr. Ected]

I can do the wireless no problem. just wanted the hardwire for some reason not sure why now

I like hardwired to guarantee better performance.  But I could see you poking about 4 holes in your walls to get that wire ran.  Maybe an experienced electrician could do with, but it would take a talent. 

@VA703 - Have you looked into using an adapter that runs the data over electrical cables? I have a similar one for running a network upstairs in my house. Works fine.

 

[Nick Vermeil]

I did this one- IIRC, the concrete counters came in around the same price as marble... not super expensive marble, but sim to a lower end carrara. had to reinforce the cabinet a bit... poured off-site in sections, carted in and installed similar to stone. 

Place looks like ####.  

 

[VA703]

@VA703 - Have you looked into using an adapter that runs the data over electrical cables? I have a similar one for running a network upstairs in my house. Works fine.

Interesting.  I'll look into this. Thanks

 

[El Floppo]

Beautiful.  Aren't you a professional contractor with experience doing things like pouring concrete?

Thanks... architect. I just design this stuff. 

 

[El Floppo]

Why was it poured off site? And why was it so expensive?

This was 10 years ago, so a bit fuzzy, but I recall there being a few issues. Very long counter with waterfall edge.. worried about expansion cracking and ruining the cabinets on the pour- it was a super tight schedule.

I don't recall the reason for the expense, but I do recall that the people doing concrete counters were all at around the same price. Plus contractor fees.

 

[El Floppo]

Place looks like ####.  

 

[Thorn]

Is there a good free/cheap program or app to play around with layouts?  I am rehabbing what is essentially a 22 x 30 vanilla box and want to experiment.

 

[Dan Lambskin]

I decided to update a finished room in my basement.  It was probably refinished in the early 70's and hasn't been touched since.  It has an old drop ceiling and fake wood paneling, so I'm completely ripping everything out.  We're going to put a bar down there with 4 or 5 TVs and maybe even a projector.  After I finish demo, probably this week depending on how much time I have, I'll get rolling on the rest.  I think I'm going to buff the concrete floor and stain it.  I've been looing for something different to do on the ceiling and walls, but I haven't found anything I love yet.  My dad has an old barn he is going to tear down, I thought about using the old barn wood on one wall and the metal barn roof on the ceiling.  I definitely don't want to have drywall on 4 walls and the ceiling.  Any ideas? 

Here is a wall we did in our laundry room with the faux Barnwood 

http://imgur.com/IvoWEdA

 

[Quez]

@Quez and @rascal Is there any chance that I can talk you out of granite/quartz countertops? I'm going to try anyways. 

There's a few problems. First, the pattern that you pick out might look amazing on it's own but it might not match as well once you see it in your own kitchen. Next if you have pieces that need to be jointed (maybe the 45 degree angles in the corner) you're likely going to have to get someone to install it because you need a special machine/tool and, I think, a special gel. Then there's the "resale value" it adds. It doesn't add much. This is a myth. It only adds value if the other people have the exact same taste as you but even then it's negligible because of the cost you put into it. And you can get get something very close to the same look at a fraction of the price. Then the selling point is "beautiful new countertops". 

Thanks for weighing in, but it actually looks like we are going with a white wave granite.

at your advice on the granite.  There are some pretty handy people here in the FFA, but I don't any of us are cutting / installing stone slabs.  I'm definitely having someone install.

 I'm getting a really good price, 2 slabs worth.  Kitchen, & a small piece in the laundry for $4200.  Cabinet refinishing $4900.  I wanted the project to be under 10k for the kitchen, and ended up being able to do the laundry, with a "level 2 granite" for under.  I'm happy with the price, so hopefully it all goes smoothly.

 

[Dan Lambskin]

Would if I could, sentmental value. We have a tv stand already, just looking to get some use out of this piece and it's the only thing my wife has from that generation.  I'm just happy she agreed to the repurpose. Originally she wanted me to fix it which wasn't going to happen. 

What about using chalk paint instead of stain? 

 

[bigmarc27]

What about using chalk paint instead of stain? 

Definite possibility. 

 

[Chaos Commish]

I've been avoiding projects since flipping some homes with other "men" in the family, but I think tomorrow I start digging post holes for a 100' fence, 15' from an existing fence. Dog run. Thinking of rescuing a couple mutts at the local shelter. I may change my mind.

 

[El Floppo]

I've been avoiding projects since flipping some homes with other "men" in the family, but I think tomorrow I start digging post holes for a 100' fence, 15' from an existing fence. Dog run. Thinking of rescuing a couple mutts at the local shelter. I may change my mind.

that would be fantastic of you... maybe you can work something out where you just house/foster a handful of them at a time and they kick in for food? build the dog run and a small shelter for them?

 

[Chaos Commish]

that would be fantastic of you... maybe you can work something out where you just house/foster a handful of them at a time and they kick in for food? build the dog run and a small shelter for them?

11am the gate posts are in concrete, the frame for the gate is laid out on the lawn. I'm old. Done for today. Beer me.

 

[Redwes25]

I did this one- IIRC, the concrete counters came in around the same price as marble... not super expensive marble, but sim to a lower end carrara. had to reinforce the cabinet a bit... poured off-site in sections, carted in and installed similar to stone. 

Looks awesome.  What firm are you with as looks like I am buying a limestone in Brooklyn (hopefully contract signs tomorrow) and we want to redo the Kitchen (including taking down a wall so it is open to the parlor floor and in the market for architect/designer.  Would like to see your stuff if you have a link to it.  Knowing my wife this is going to be an Otis level renovation.  

 

[NutterButter]

There's some nice laments out there. Also, the concrete options. @NutterButter has nice post for concrete. There's also wood. I used bamboo recently with a clear high temp coating. Unfortunately, if you Google search it too many people used a darker finish or too much wood in the their kitchen and it doesn't look that great to me. Also, when you're describing it to people instead of calling it "wood counters" you're supposed to say "butcher block countertops".   I went with the bamboo counter tops because they were on sale at Home Depot for $120ish for a 5' x 32" (or 34", whatever the counter top standard is). Plus the couple cans of the coating I put in 15' of new counters for about $500. For me it worked because of the colors (white and stainless steel) I used for the kitchen. 

Pretty crazy at least to me how nice a concrete countertop can be made to look with a combination of dyes.  

 

[Brony]

Someone bought up a recent question about refinishing a wooden table and I've been meaning to get to one of these projects myself.  Some nail polish remover was spilled on our dining room table. 

http://imgur.com/a/5QiMG

http://imgur.com/a/t0hMJ

The area is big enough that it will be tough to simply touch up, so I'm looking for more nuclear options.  The status quo is a badly stained table, so I'm open to trying to refinish, but I've never done this before.  Should I be thinking hard core sanding as first step, or go with the CitriStrip idea?  I did some youtub'ing of similar things last year and it seem like stripping was the way to go, but a neighbor suggested belt sander.  Thoughts? 

 

[Chaos Commish]

Someone bought up a recent question about refinishing a wooden table and I've been meaning to get to one of these projects myself.  Some nail polish remover was spilled on our dining room table. 

http://imgur.com/a/5QiMG

http://imgur.com/a/t0hMJ

The area is big enough that it will be tough to simply touch up, so I'm looking for more nuclear options.  The status quo is a badly stained table, so I'm open to trying to refinish, but I've never done this before.  Should I be thinking hard core sanding as first step, or go with the CitriStrip idea?  I did some youtub'ing of similar things last year and it seem like stripping was the way to go, but a neighbor suggested belt sander.  Thoughts? 

Nail polish remover is acetone, so I think I'd start by giving the whole thing (or just the top) a good acetone soak and rub to match the stain. Sanding should be minimized. I think a belt sander is a ridiculous idea, and I hate CitriStrip and all related products. If your goal is to make it look like a brand new piece, fine. Sand yourself silly to remove all scratches and dings after the acetone stain matching job. Xylene is a clean enough option if the acetone doesn't match. Products like Oops! and GoofOff work too. Then finish however you want (this is where you sand before and between coats). I'd probably embrace my scratches and dings as antiquing. 

 

[Chaos Commish]

Someone bought up a recent question about refinishing a wooden table and I've been meaning to get to one of these projects myself.  Some nail polish remover was spilled on our dining room table. 

http://imgur.com/a/5QiMG

http://imgur.com/a/t0hMJ

The area is big enough that it will be tough to simply touch up, so I'm looking for more nuclear options.  The status quo is a badly stained table, so I'm open to trying to refinish, but I've never done this before.  Should I be thinking hard core sanding as first step, or go with the CitriStrip idea?  I did some youtub'ing of similar things last year and it seem like stripping was the way to go, but a neighbor suggested belt sander.  Thoughts? 

My sister would take an even easier and better approach to that table. She'd chalk paint it.

 

[wilked]

Do the entire table in acetone. Use an old shirt and gloves. Don't forget that it is flammable and keep the kids away/ run a fan. 

Next, use orbital sander. Buy one if you don't have one - they are cheap and handy. For your table I would sand: 120 first, then 180 grit, and finish with 220. 

Next, stain it to match the rest. I use Minwax, they have enough variety of colors to find a match. 

Finally use a wipe on poly. I like Minwax again. You will need a light sand (220 or better) between poly layers for adhesion. You want at least 5 coats, maybe 8. The wipe on is thinner this more costs, upside is it dries fast and goes on really smooth 

 

[Brony]

Good info! Thanks. 

That sounds more manageable and I have experience with polyu and sanding with orbital. Just need to pick up some acetone. Not expecting perfection with this but again, the status quo is a badly stained table and after my attempts  if I end with a badly stained table, no harm. 

 

[offdee]

Moved into new house about a month ago and chipping away at misc. projects.  This place has about 3 phone jacks in almost every single room of the house!  We will NEVER have a home phone with cell phones and these things are eyesores.  I'd like to just get rid of them and drywall the outlet squares up....any issues or pitfalls to consider with this?   OK to just put electrical tape on the end of these phone wires and bury in the wall or should something more be done?

 

[B Maverick]

Roof is done and exterior of house painted!  

Now on to raising the back wall and building my front porch and side seating area/porch.  Oh wait, need $$$$$$$

 

[matttyl]

Moved into new house about a month ago and chipping away at misc. projects.  This place has about 3 phone jacks in almost every single room of the house!  We will NEVER have a home phone with cell phones and these things are eyesores.  I'd like to just get rid of them and drywall the outlet squares up....any issues or pitfalls to consider with this?   OK to just put electrical tape on the end of these phone wires and bury in the wall or should something more be done?

depending on what the phone lines are (some installers use cat5 for everything) you can have them used at network cables (or you can pull the phone cables out while pulling cat5e or cat6 through).  You really wouldn't even need to put electrical tape on them, they are all low voltage, but it wouldn't hurt anything.

 

[offdee]

depending on what the phone lines are (some installers use cat5 for everything) you can have them used at network cables (or you can pull the phone cables out while pulling cat5e or cat6 through).  You really wouldn't even need to put electrical tape on them, they are all low voltage, but it wouldn't hurt anything.

Can you educate me a bit on the cat5 and cat6 topic....

- how could I determine if the phone line is cat5 or not?

- what would be the value of having cat5 or cat6 wiring throughout the house?

 

[matttyl]

Can you educate me a bit on the cat5 and cat6 topic....

- how could I determine if the phone line is cat5 or not?

- what would be the value of having cat5 or cat6 wiring throughout the house?

If it has 8 wires it's likely cat5 or cat6.  If it only has 4 wires, it's likely cat3, which is used for phone lines.

The value of having cat5 or cat6 run throughout the house is that you can have a *wired* internet network rather than just wireless.  If for instance you have a cat5 or cat6 outlet by a TV, you can stream video over a wired connection, which is much faster and more reliable.  Also lots of things are now able to be "wired" to the internet - TVs, Stereos, streaming devices, appliances, surveillance cameras, and of course computers and computer stuff. 

 

[offdee]

If it has 8 wires it's likely cat5 or cat6.  If it only has 4 wires, it's likely cat3, which is used for phone lines.

The value of having cat5 or cat6 run throughout the house is that you can have a *wired* internet network rather than just wireless.  If for instance you have a cat5 or cat6 outlet by a TV, you can stream video over a wired connection, which is much faster and more reliable.  Also lots of things are now able to be "wired" to the internet - TVs, Stereos, streaming devices, appliances, surveillance cameras, and of course computers and computer stuff. 

Got it.  My wiring to all these jacks looks exactly like the below pic...I'm assuming that's cat3 only and basically useless these days?   My thought at this time is to just put electrical tape on the ends of the wires, push into the wall and then get those thin metal mesh drywall repair screens and mud over them with drywall compound (and then sand smooth and paint to blend with wall).   Is that all OK to do?

https://www.todayshomeowner.com/images/article/installing-phone-jack-5.jpg

 

[matttyl]

Got it.  My wiring to all these jacks looks exactly like the below pic...I'm assuming that's cat3 only and basically useless these days?   My thought at this time is to just put electrical tape on the ends of the wires, push into the wall and then get those thin metal mesh drywall repair screens and mud over them with drywall compound (and then sand smooth and paint to blend with wall).   Is that all OK to do?

https://www.todayshomeowner.com/images/article/installing-phone-jack-5.jpg

Yup, all sounds good.  I think you can use cat3 for networking, but it would be very slow (not fast enough to stream video).