Home-owners...What are your current projects? (1 Viewer)

[SWC]

the thing about rust is that it does not need a bunch of holes that are visible to let water in it is not a hard impervous surface anymore and it will just let water seep in and now that you have water in the duct it will sit on the bottom of the inside of the duct and rust that out to so basically id have a professional hvac guy look at it and call your insurnace agent it might be a covered event take that to the swc trying to save you a buck bank bromigo 

 

[Quez]

Found the leak...  A T in SOLID CONCRETE...  Fortunately, I'm in between a kitchen renovation, and the counters aren't in yet.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/tampaquez/media/Screenshot_20170519-190622_zpsrzbdxyn6.png.html?filters[user]=146482211&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

 

[El Floppo]

Found the leak...  A T in SOLID CONCRETE...  Fortunately, I'm in between a kitchen renovation, and the counters aren't in yet.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/tampaquez/media/Screenshot_20170519-190622_zpsrzbdxyn6.png.html?filters[user]=146482211&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

Was that particular but of demo scheduled, or was it exploratory to find the leak? Either way... pretty lucky to find it!

 

[lumpy19]

Found the leak...  A T in SOLID CONCRETE...  Fortunately, I'm in between a kitchen renovation, and the counters aren't in yet.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/tampaquez/media/Screenshot_20170519-190622_zpsrzbdxyn6.png.html?filters[user]=146482211&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

How did you not destroy the pipe breaking that concrete

 

[Quez]

Was that particular but of demo scheduled, or was it exploratory to find the leak? Either way... pretty lucky to find it!

Most of the exploration was done on the outside drilling holes in to drain the block.  So it was kind of narrowed down to a 2x2 area.  The first hammer drill went out, so I had to buy a new one.  Picked up a Bosch Bulldog Xtreme, a chisel bit, the biggest masonry bit I could find 1", and a DeWalt 5/8 with a high impact Carbonite tip.  Instead of the regular flat looking masonry tip it's a cross.  It's like drilling through butter.  The new tools made all the difference.

Eta the hose was built in 79 and the concrete was much stronger back then... Ugh

 

[Quez]

How did you not destroy the pipe breaking that concrete

The pvc is surprising tough when chiseling around it.  If you make the concrete thin enough near the pipe, it kind of becomes brittle and breaks away.  Drill holes, use chisel, vacume, sio beer, repeat.

 

[Quez]

Got the counter tops put in yesterday.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/tampaquez/media/Screenshot_20170523-120838_zpsqpkqwalc.png.html

 

[berndog]

Next up is repairing some rotted window sill and painting.

 

[El Floppo]

Got the counter tops put in yesterday.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/tampaquez/media/Screenshot_20170523-120838_zpsqpkqwalc.png.html

nice! do you remember the name/species of granite you used?

 

[Quez]

nice! do you remember the name/species of granite you used?

We originally picked White Wave, then the slab was too small.  The guy said it was the closest fit that he has done in years, he barely got us on 1 slab, which saved us money.

We ended up going with Viscon White in the kitchen, and found a remnant for the laundry "thunder white".  

 

[Quez]

Also went with a white composite sink.  Does anyone have any experience with a composite sink?  

 

[Godsbrother]

My upcoming project is to clean out, paint, and install a gas line in my garage to install an automated brewing system.  My friends and I plan on brewing 30-45 gallons a month so needed to upgrade from my 5 gallon brew stand.

 

[Borden]

Also went with a white composite sink.  Does anyone have any experience with a composite sink?  

Not personally but a co-worker talked me about getting one awhile ago. They're pretty awesome though. Tougher than ceramic and look better than steel (IMO). I think the only thing you have to worry about is the coating because it can get damaged if you throw sharp things in it or if you were to put a bunch of heat on it. I think it's pretty easy to fix the small dings though. Basically just polish it. 

Definitely post your impressions after you get some good use into it. 

 

[matttyl]

My house has a two level deck - one is a walk out from the basement level, the other a walkout from the kitchen/living room area.  Each deck is 32 feet wide by 16 feet deep (512 sq ft.)  So last year I replaced all my decking on the top level and went with some mid level Trex.  Also replaced all the railings on the top deck, as well as completely redid the staircase between the two levels.  Before putting down the new decking, though, I installed a water barrier, called Trex rain escape.  Any rain or snow that falls on the top deck will be funneled down into a gutter system, so the lower deck will remain dry. 

I want to turn that lower deck into an "outdoor living room".  Currently when you're down there and look up you see the rain system over top of the joists (just like the 5th picture in the above link).  I want to install some can lights (I imagine would need to be low clearance and low heat leds), two ceiling fans, and a bead board ceiling.  As the ceiling won't get any direct water, it will still be "outside" so I'm not sure of the proper material to use.  Would any wood "ply-bead paneling" work (obviously painted up well on both sides and around the edges), or should I go for something a bit more suited for "exterior use"?

 

[wilked]

My house has a two level deck - one is a walk out from the basement level, the other a walkout from the kitchen/living room area.  Each deck is 32 feet wide by 16 feet deep (512 sq ft.)  So last year I replaced all my decking on the top level and went with some mid level Trex.  Also replaced all the railings on the top deck, as well as completely redid the staircase between the two levels.  Before putting down the new decking, though, I installed a water barrier, called Trex rain escape.  Any rain or snow that falls on the top deck will be funneled down into a gutter system, so the lower deck will remain dry. 

I want to turn that lower deck into an "outdoor living room".  Currently when you're down there and look up you see the rain system over top of the joists (just like the 5th picture in the above link).  I want to install some can lights (I imagine would need to be low clearance and low heat leds), two ceiling fans, and a bead board ceiling.  As the ceiling won't get any direct water, it will still be "outside" so I'm not sure of the proper material to use.  Would any wood "ply-bead paneling" work (obviously painted up well on both sides and around the edges), or should I go for something a bit more suited for "exterior use"?

Use Azek beadboard material...  Will look just like wood once painted

 

[matttyl]

Use Azek beadboard material...  Will look just like wood once painted

Was afraid of that, that stuff gets really, really pricey. 

Just some quick math here, I'm only going to "ceiling in" about 30'x14' (the last two feet of the deck on the end is a cantilever, so I'll do something different there, maybe just off the shelf soffit, and the same with the last 1' on the ends).  That's about 60.5k sq. in. - and each 18' board of Azek beadboard is 3.375" wide, for a total of 729 sq. in., and costs $45.  I'll need at least 83 of those boards (really 85-90 most likely), so we're talking about ~$4k in just ceiling materials before any trim, electrical, soffit material, or anything else.  Sheesh. 

 

[belljr]

I've put off redoing my deck, my front stoop and my birck moldings.

I just dont' feel like doing the work and don't know any contractors

 

[wilked]

Was afraid of that, that stuff gets really, really pricey. 

Just some quick math here, I'm only going to "ceiling in" about 30'x14' (the last two feet of the deck on the end is a cantilever, so I'll do something different there, maybe just off the shelf soffit, and the same with the last 1' on the ends).  That's about 60.5k sq. in. - and each 18' board of Azek beadboard is 3.375" wide, for a total of 729 sq. in., and costs $45.  I'll need at least 83 of those boards (really 85-90 most likely), so we're talking about ~$4k in just ceiling materials before any trim, electrical, soffit material, or anything else.  Sheesh. 

Shop that price around...sounds high.  I googled and found it to be at least 1/3 cheaper?

In the end I would think $2-3K in materials for your project...probably money well spent.  You are not going to want to paint this more than once

 

[matttyl]

Shop that price around...sounds high.  I googled and found it to be at least 1/3 cheaper?

In the end I would think $2-3K in materials for your project...probably money well spent.  You are not going to want to paint this more than once

Thanks for the help.  I've got a contractor buddy of mine that can maybe get a discount somewhere.  I'm hoping that even with labor I can get the entire thing done under $5k.  Some of the electrical may prove tricky....

 

[offdee]

2 projects that should hopefully be finishing up this long weekend..

1) Took a regular coat closet off entry of the garage and turned it into mudroom lockers.   Opened up the closet to the ceiling and made wood locker built ins and bench with bottom opening for kids to kick shoes under and out of sight.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145687765@N04/shares/z1g6Kx

2) Expanded a walk in closet for the lady an extra 2 feet recently.  Going to build a built in shelving system that is 8+ ft high to display 50 pairs of high heels and 40 pairs of boots.  Yes, she can fill it easily.

 

[Chaka]

Does anyone have experience with whole home water filtration systems? Any recommendations on products/brands? Any issues/concerns about doing self installation or should I just have a professional install?

 

[jon_mx]

Doing a short driveway to garage from back alley in pavers.  Only about 80 sq. ft.   But using smaller 3"x6" pavers means there are about  a thousand of them suckers to pound in.  Not horrible, but a couple hours pounding in the sun is about it for me before I need a beer.  It could take a couple of weekends.  

 

[El Floppo]

Does anyone have experience with whole home water filtration systems? Any recommendations on products/brands? Any issues/concerns about doing self installation or should I just have a professional install?

I've only done whole house once. Will try to remember to look at what I did when I get back to office.... Pretty certain it was RO.

 

[Osaurus]

RO here at sink and love it.  Also have softener and pre-carbon filter (high chlorine near house).  Spent about $2k for a pro system they install in a lot of restaurants.  Worth every  .  Don't go for Culligan or some of those other ripoff artists.  I paid 1/3 of what they were asking and I got a lot more.  Do your homework (which is why you posted here). 

 

[Chaka]

RO here at sink and love it.  Also have softener and pre-carbon filter (high chlorine near house).  Spent about $2k for a pro system they install in a lot of restaurants.  Worth every  .  Don't go for Culligan or some of those other ripoff artists.  I paid 1/3 of what they were asking and I got a lot more.  Do your homework (which is why you posted here). 

Do you remember the brand?  Did you do the install?

TIA

 

[Osaurus]

Had it installed.  I'll get the brand info here in a bit.

 

[Mario Kart]

I want to redo a stone "sidewalk" that is near my garage. Many stones but only part of it was done "correctly" while the rest of it seems to have just been laid on top of grass. They stones move and wobble and are not even. So, I have to pick the stones up (about 2" thick each of them and differing sizes) and dig down into the ground (maybe only 3" or so to reset each stone). I'm hoping to do the full thing with sand/gravel underneath and to fill in the cracks once the stones are reset. I have to call to make sure no wires are underneath and I don't think I'll be using plastic under the stones but they are ~20 feet from the house so I might be able to do something like plastic to keep the pathway fresh and not have grass/weeds come up. This will have to be in the summer though as work is still going on.Any tips/thoughts?

 

[matttyl]

Thinking out loud here, but also looking for input.:

There are 4 upstairs bedroom in my house.  The master has both can lights, as well as a ceiling fan with candelabra lights on it.  The can lights have a switch (actually two, one by the door and one by the bed - great idea by the builders!), and the ceiling fan has it's own switch by the door.  When that switch is on, you can control the fan, or the lights on the fan, independently by the pull cords on it - but either only work when the switch itself is on. 

The other 3 bedrooms only have a single wall switch going to half of a duplex outlet somewhere in the room (I believe the bottom half, the top is always on).  There are no in ceiling lights (or any lights) of any kind - and there is no ceiling fan. 

Wife is asking for ceiling fans in other rooms (one she uses as her work from home office, one is our nearly 2 year old's bedroom - and third and least important is the guest room). 

What's the "shark" course of action, keeping in mind potential resale value years from now, as well as current costs of doing whatever plan?  Install can lights and a ceiling fan and wire up each room like the master (minus the 3 way switch by the bed) with two switches by each room's door?  Install a ceiling fan with lights wired back to the current solo switch?  Install a ceiling fan without lights and continue to use lamps?  Anything I haven't considered?  Any issue utilizing the current wall switch for this and turning the duplex plug back into an "always on" type plug?

 

[Nugget]

Thinking out loud here, but also looking for input.:

There are 4 upstairs bedroom in my house.  The master has both can lights, as well as a ceiling fan with candelabra lights on it.  The can lights have a switch (actually two, one by the door and one by the bed - great idea by the builders!), and the ceiling fan has it's own switch by the door.  When that switch is on, you can control the fan, or the lights on the fan, independently by the pull cords on it - but either only work when the switch itself is on. 

The other 3 bedrooms only have a single wall switch going to half of a duplex outlet somewhere in the room (I believe the bottom half, the top is always on).  There are no in ceiling lights (or any lights) of any kind - and there is no ceiling fan. 

Wife is asking for ceiling fans in other rooms (one she uses as her work from home office, one is our nearly 2 year old's bedroom - and third and least important is the guest room). 

What's the "shark" course of action, keeping in mind potential resale value years from now, as well as current costs of doing whatever plan?  Install can lights and a ceiling fan and wire up each room like the master (minus the 3 way switch by the bed) with two switches by each room's door?  Install a ceiling fan with lights wired back to the current solo switch?  Install a ceiling fan without lights and continue to use lamps?  Anything I haven't considered?  Any issue utilizing the current wall switch for this and turning the duplex plug back into an "always on" type plug?

I'd aim for the master bedroom setup.  I added a switch when I installed can lights in the formal living room and it wasn't that bad.  Once you are going to mess with the wiring I'd do it all at once and make it nice.

 

[matttyl]

I'd aim for the master bedroom setup.  I added a switch when I installed can lights in the formal living room and it wasn't that bad.  Once you are going to mess with the wiring I'd do it all at once and make it nice.

Was thinking that, but also didn't want to go all in and make it too busy.  My son's nursery/one day bedroom is only 9x12 or so.  In the office, though, you may be right.

 

[The Commish]

Thinking out loud here, but also looking for input.:

There are 4 upstairs bedroom in my house.  The master has both can lights, as well as a ceiling fan with candelabra lights on it.  The can lights have a switch (actually two, one by the door and one by the bed - great idea by the builders!), and the ceiling fan has it's own switch by the door.  When that switch is on, you can control the fan, or the lights on the fan, independently by the pull cords on it - but either only work when the switch itself is on. 

The other 3 bedrooms only have a single wall switch going to half of a duplex outlet somewhere in the room (I believe the bottom half, the top is always on).  There are no in ceiling lights (or any lights) of any kind - and there is no ceiling fan. 

Wife is asking for ceiling fans in other rooms (one she uses as her work from home office, one is our nearly 2 year old's bedroom - and third and least important is the guest room). 

What's the "shark" course of action, keeping in mind potential resale value years from now, as well as current costs of doing whatever plan?  Install can lights and a ceiling fan and wire up each room like the master (minus the 3 way switch by the bed) with two switches by each room's door?  Install a ceiling fan with lights wired back to the current solo switch?  Install a ceiling fan without lights and continue to use lamps?  Anything I haven't considered?  Any issue utilizing the current wall switch for this and turning the duplex plug back into an "always on" type plug?

If it's me, I look at ease of access....can you get to the areas easily to install the can lights?  If so, just do it all at once.  If you can't put in ceiling fans that have a remote and be done with it.

 

[matttyl]

If it's me, I look at ease of access....can you get to the areas easily to install the can lights?  If so, just do it all at once.  If you can't put in ceiling fans that have a remote and be done with it.

Attic space above.  I can do anything I want (I think, another potential issue below).  Like the remote idea for the office, though.

Anyway, if I'm picturing the wiring correctly - there is a wire running from the breaker box to the current switch(es) - and then a wire running from the switch(es) to one outlet in each room.  When wiring up the fan - where do I wire into?  The switch, or the outlet?  If I no longer want the outlet tied to the switch, is that even possible?

 

[The Commish]

Attic space above.  I can do anything I want (I think, another potential issue below).  Like the remote idea for the office, though.

Anyway, if I'm picturing the wiring correctly - there is a wire running from the breaker box to the current switch(es) - and then a wire running from the switch(es) to one outlet in each room.  When wiring up the fan - where do I wire into?  The switch, or the outlet?  If I no longer want the outlet tied to the switch, is that even possible?

You can us the main that runs to the switch...you'll need a larger hole, but that's how i'd do it.  It would be a new switch for the fan, new wire running from the switch into the attic for the fan.  Leave the switch for the outlets alone.

 

[Statorama]

Power washing the basement floor.  2150 PSI baby

 

[Lehigh98]

My son just turned nine and wanted a basketball hoop.

Bought one from ****'s, dug a huge hole last Saturday, mixed and poured 1200 lbs of concrete on Labor Day, assembled on Friday for his birthday party on Saturday.  Stayed up despite the best efforts of a bunch of 9 year olds.

 

[msommer]

My son just turned nine and wanted a basketball hoop.

Bought one from ****'s, dug a huge hole last Saturday, mixed and poured 1200 lbs of concrete on Labor Day, assembled on Friday for his birthday party on Saturday.  Stayed up despite the best efforts of a bunch of 9 year olds.

Wrong thread. Take that stuff to the "Home Owners: What were your Projects" thread

 

[glvsav37]

My plans just got approved by the town yesterday for an extension I'm adding to the house....finally!! 

We are adding a new den and laundry room on one side of the house (with a full basement under it), and then extending my kids rooms by a few feet. 

For the new area, I only have the contractor doing the shell on the new area, I'm GCing/doing the rest of it to save some money. I'll do the floors, sheetrock and some other stuff, hiring out the electrical and plumbing. 

After that we are taking over our existing den and blowing out the kitchen and adding a small mud room, that will be later in the year once the other stuff is done. i'm hoping to have it all done by Christmas. 

lets start spending money!!!! lol

just got the call...we are (suppose to) break ground tomorrow!!!! 

it has been an insanely rainy spring here in NY and it has delayed a lot of foundation jobs. So while we hoped to be in full on construction right now, we are just starting. I promised my wife the whole job will be done by Christmas, so its time to get other parts moving a little faster then I expected.

 

[Instinctive]

Bookmarking this for summer when I take on the full-size horseshoe pit project I've been dreaming about.

 

[glvsav37]

My plans just got approved by the town yesterday for an extension I'm adding to the house....finally!! 

We are adding a new den and laundry room on one side of the house (with a full basement under it), and then extending my kids rooms by a few feet. 

For the new area, I only have the contractor doing the shell on the new area, I'm GCing/doing the rest of it to save some money. I'll do the floors, sheetrock and some other stuff, hiring out the electrical and plumbing. 

After that we are taking over our existing den and blowing out the kitchen and adding a small mud room, that will be later in the year once the other stuff is done. i'm hoping to have it all done by Christmas. 

lets start spending money!!!! lol

well...today we broke ground. HFS that is one big hole. 

Mason next week for the basement and foundation. 

And in true HGTV renno show form, we found a problem with my waste line and it needs to be replaced.  Cost TBD.  Turns out a joint in the pipe separated and the 2 ends were overlapping, cutting my poop pipe down from 5 inches to 2.5 inches and leaking. Now I at least know why the bush that was there was always so damn green. At least it is all excavated already and we just need to replace the piping....joy. 

 

[kface]

i have a crawlspace full of rats.  So we are looking to get it wrapped professionally with the thick poly and then insulation blown onto the walls.  First quote came in at 7k which i thought was expensive.

 

[bleachercreacher]

I mentioned a while back in this thread that I was remodling my basement man cave.  I've got about 3000 square feet of old barn siding under my carport right now.  This weekends job is to get it cleaned and the 1000 square feet I need carried to the basement.  I'll probably keep another 1000 square feet, but the rest is going to have to go on Craigslist or something. I don't room to store it all, and I want to make sure it gets used.

 

[matttyl]

i have a crawlspace full of rats.  So we are looking to get it wrapped professionally with the thick poly and then insulation blown onto the walls.  First quote came in at 7k which i thought was expensive.

Rats can find their way into and out of just about anywhere.  Will some think poly and blow in insulation really stop them?

 

[matttyl]

I mentioned a while back in this thread that I was remodling my basement man cave.  I've got about 3000 square feet of old barn siding under my carport right now.  This weekends job is to get it cleaned and the 1000 square feet I need carried to the basement.  I'll probably keep another 1000 square feet, but the rest is going to have to go on Craigslist or something. I don't room to store it all, and I want to make sure it gets used.

Will it be used for walls or ceiling?

 

[matttyl]

Any of you resealed a driveway?  Thinking about tackling that project this summer - doing all my homework now.  My driveway is a pretty steep downhill from the road down to the house, so I'm hoping that doesn't mess up having the sealant set properly. 

 

[kface]

Rats can find their way into and out of just about anywhere.  Will some think poly and blow in insulation really stop them?

They actually guarantee their system will keep the pests out.  

 

[bleachercreacher]

Will it be used for walls or ceiling?

I'm using it on the walls.

 

[glvsav37]

septic pipe fixed and gonna come back and give it a good draining. been a while (actually never) since I had that thing drained.

Grand total $1800.         

 

[Binky The Doormat]

Finding and fixing what think are leaks in both the sprinkler system and pool.  Hoping the pool leak isn't under the cement deck return line.  

Had to call Leak Detection service - $350 min. charge.  Couldn't get out to the house in almost 3 weeks.  Pool is losing enough water, we thought it was contributing to the flooding in the side/back yard.  So we shut the pool circulation off.  

Leak detection service shows up and finds a leak in the sprinkler junction box beside the pool ...guy that can fix it can't show up until mid-next week.  They can't look at the pool because now it is a deep green stagnate mess.  Their office people told us to shut it down ...gd it.  

Trip to pool store for $150 worth of supplies to get the pool back in shape - and lots of labor from me doing it (which I hate).  

Fingers still crossed on where pool leak is coming from ...so we don't have to break up pool deck concrete and redo.  (did resurfacing treatment a couple of years ago).

yeah pools.  

 

[Franknbeans]

took a break from painting the house to build a chicken coop and run. The chicks need to get out of the cellar and soon.

and now with photos...

coop1

fullfrontal

pen

nestbox

interior

closer

 

[Fat Nick]

Any of you resealed a driveway?  Thinking about tackling that project this summer - doing all my homework now.  My driveway is a pretty steep downhill from the road down to the house, so I'm hoping that doesn't mess up having the sealant set properly. 

I'm curious where you land on this...I looked into doing it myself and ended up paying to have it done about 2 years ago.  The cost/benefit to doing it myself wasn't there...maybe I miscalculated the effort involved.

At this point my driveway is so far gone that I'm not really bothering anymore.  I generally feel seal coating isn't as beneficial as they let on.  I've got huge cracks due to settling/shifting that I tried to patch at one point...I'm just letting them go now.  I figure in 3-4 years I'll have the whole thing re-done and address the drainage issues that are causing the problem in the first place.