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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wilked
- Start date
offdee
Footballguy
you assume correctly that you'll need to figure out some way to vent outside....the smoke and smells need to be released somewhere. They have the fans that take in smells and supposedly recirculate them or something and spit out clean air, but they are all junk so don't bother with that option.
wilked
Footballguy
Yeah, I want vented out. I found this, but I'm not sure if the blower is powerful enough to push up 8 additional feet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY6RQS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nyrsAb2QDHD4F
wilked
Footballguy
The blower can likely push much further than 8 feet. The question is - where do you go? You need to find a pathway out. Make a floor plan and post it here. Maybe a photo or two. What size are your floor joists?
Dan Lambskin
Footballguy
So here's a fun one
Wasnt putting in full days but quite a few hours each day plus taking care of some other errands, shoveling Snow, etc
Agreed to put new laminate wood floor in half bath. Ripped up old floor 3 days ago. Laid floor 2 days ago. Yesterday did trim and here's where if gets fun.
Wife decide she wanted a new toilet (had planned to use the old one but it was ancient 4 bolt and bottom covered in caulk, etc). So agree to get a new one and oh BTW there's a different sink pedestal that's like 2 inches higher (never heard a peep about this before but whatever). So I put in toilet but tell her sink needs to wait because I now need new drain pipe since old sink wont match up
Go get that stuff today, come back and find out old sink doesnt fit pedestal. Back to home Depot for new sink that does. Start drilling holes to mount to wall and nick a freaking waterline
no idea why but they had it capped a good foot above the outlets. So shut off water, go get caps, fix it and start drywall. Realize out of mud so make 4th trip to home Depot. Now got a layer of mud on it, but old home and not exact match so basically have to float a 12x12 skim coat so that's drying
Hopefully wrap up drywall and pain tomorrow any can do the sink Tuesday after work
Oh and I still have to cut my door down about a 1/4" since it won't close on the new floor
Wasnt putting in full days but quite a few hours each day plus taking care of some other errands, shoveling Snow, etc
Agreed to put new laminate wood floor in half bath. Ripped up old floor 3 days ago. Laid floor 2 days ago. Yesterday did trim and here's where if gets fun.
Wife decide she wanted a new toilet (had planned to use the old one but it was ancient 4 bolt and bottom covered in caulk, etc). So agree to get a new one and oh BTW there's a different sink pedestal that's like 2 inches higher (never heard a peep about this before but whatever). So I put in toilet but tell her sink needs to wait because I now need new drain pipe since old sink wont match up
Go get that stuff today, come back and find out old sink doesnt fit pedestal. Back to home Depot for new sink that does. Start drilling holes to mount to wall and nick a freaking waterline
no idea why but they had it capped a good foot above the outlets. So shut off water, go get caps, fix it and start drywall. Realize out of mud so make 4th trip to home Depot. Now got a layer of mud on it, but old home and not exact match so basically have to float a 12x12 skim coat so that's drying Hopefully wrap up drywall and pain tomorrow any can do the sink Tuesday after work
Oh and I still have to cut my door down about a 1/4" since it won't close on the new floor
El Floppo
Footballguy
YepSo here's a fun one
Wasnt putting in full days but quite a few hours each day plus taking care of some other errands, shoveling Snow, etc
Agreed to put new laminate wood floor in half bath. Ripped up old floor 3 days ago. Laid floor 2 days ago. Yesterday did trim and here's where if gets fun.
Wife decide she wanted a new toilet (had planned to use the old one but it was ancient 4 bolt and bottom covered in caulk, etc). So agree to get a new one and oh BTW there's a different sink pedestal that's like 2 inches higher (never heard a peep about this before but whatever). So I put in toilet but tell her sink needs to wait because I now need new drain pipe since old sink wont match up
Go get that stuff today, come back and find out old sink doesnt fit pedestal. Back to home Depot for new sink that does. Start drilling holes to mount to wall and nick a freaking waterline
Hopefully wrap up drywall and pain tomorrow any can do the sink Tuesday after work
Oh and I still have to cut my door down about a 1/4" since it won't close on the new floor
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
What do you mean by supplies? Isn't it just push-on? I've only used it once or twice on PVC. I remember not being crazy about it for some reason.
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
Been there. Although you should be proud to have achieved all that in one day.So here's a fun one
Wasnt putting in full days but quite a few hours each day plus taking care of some other errands, shoveling Snow, etc
Agreed to put new laminate wood floor in half bath. Ripped up old floor 3 days ago. Laid floor 2 days ago. Yesterday did trim and here's where if gets fun.
Wife decide she wanted a new toilet (had planned to use the old one but it was ancient 4 bolt and bottom covered in caulk, etc). So agree to get a new one and oh BTW there's a different sink pedestal that's like 2 inches higher (never heard a peep about this before but whatever). So I put in toilet but tell her sink needs to wait because I now need new drain pipe since old sink wont match up
Go get that stuff today, come back and find out old sink doesnt fit pedestal. Back to home Depot for new sink that does. Start drilling holes to mount to wall and nick a freaking waterline
Hopefully wrap up drywall and pain tomorrow any can do the sink Tuesday after work
Oh and I still have to cut my door down about a 1/4" since it won't close on the new floor
wilked
Footballguy
I mean very literally what pieces do I buy? Should be simple but I've never done it and web doesn't seem helpful on this.
In a basic sense... I will turn off gas / electricity / water to it, drain it, open high point vent in house (3rd floor faucet), again check that it is drained
From there I will cut the copper piping. I bought a pipe cutter for that.
It is the next 2-3 steps that I am not sure, and exactly which shark bite thing to buy
msommer
Footballguy
Many if not most flammable gases are heavier than air so opening the top vent isn't going to help out at all
Gases - heavier or lighter than air
belljr
Footballguy
My deck is literally a day maybe 2 away from being finished. But the guy doing it (friend of mine) didn't realize he needed one finished board and a couple special brackets for the rail.
It's been 2 weeks and the parts are not in
He keeps texting how sorry he is. I'm in no rush but he wants this stupid thing finished more than I do. Lol.
No he's not playing me. I've known him a long time
It's been 2 weeks and the parts are not in
He keeps texting how sorry he is. I'm in no rush but he wants this stupid thing finished more than I do. Lol.
No he's not playing me. I've known him a long time
ChiefD
Footballguy
Do you have open basement underneath? You could go with a downdraft stove and vent out through your basement.
wilked
Footballguy
I mean the highest fixture (sink) to vent the water lines / allow for drainage. Not for gases
offdee
Footballguy
You'rs probably looking at something like this setup....run the duct all the way up to the lofted ceiling and exhaust out of the roof.
https://goo.gl/images/pMQBiM
Senor Schmutzig
Footballguy
We are in the beginning stages of building a two unit townhome and the kitchen is going to be against the interior well so we will have to figure out a solution for this as well. We like to cook so smoke/smells WILL be an issue and I would like to vent them out somehow.
AhrnCityPahnder
Yinz-o-riffic
DIY-guize: oh yes hi, I didn't see you there.
Has anyone installed a heated floor before? Considering this as a basement upgrade. I see there's hydro and electric options. Hydro more efficient but also a more involved and costlier install.
Whatcha got?
Has anyone installed a heated floor before? Considering this as a basement upgrade. I see there's hydro and electric options. Hydro more efficient but also a more involved and costlier install.
Whatcha got?
wilked
Footballguy
What is your current house heating system?
Where do you live? I could picture heating a basement floor being a bit of an energy hog (ie expensive)
Another thing to consider is a 'warm' floor material, such as cork
https://www.cancork.com/best-basement-flooring-cork/
We installed cork recently (not a basement) and love it. Even when house is cold the cork is warm
AhrnCityPahnder
Yinz-o-riffic
We have gas heat and AC but nothing in the basement. Basement never gets above 75 even in really hot summers here as the AC upstairs leaks down, but when it's butt cold here the basement is cold. currently using space heaters in the basement.
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Mr. Ected
Footballguy
My folks have electric baseboard heaters in a porch in their TH. If I remember correctly, they are attached on side of the room, with the electrical connection behind the wall (they lost an outlet) and had a remote on another wall. I don't know if the remote was connected directly or not. I think it may have been, because the heaters were installed when the house was built.
They work wonderfully, the porch is about 12x12 and they have one row of heaters that is about 8 feet long. In general they tend to not use the room in the winter, because it is all windows and they are just 2 in the house, so it's not really needed. But for parties or times like last week when everyone is there, they can extend the space of their house.
Some other questions...is the basement finished? Are the walls insulated? Can you see the ducts? If so, could you just 'hack' into them and add some vents?
AhrnCityPahnder
Yinz-o-riffic
When we bought the house the basement was "finished". Horribly (crap wiring, drop ceilings, etc). I gutted the largest room for my theater and it is really finished now. new wiring, insulation, wired speakers, recessed lighting, drywall / paint etc.
The theater and a half bath (which is still completely undone, all I have is plumbing stampouts, framing and wiring in place) are my main concerns for heating. it's on a concrete foundation now with carpeting that I'm ok keeping but also completely fine with ripping up and putting something else down if need be.
One upside is that when we moved in I had a subpanel put in off the breaker box and that's only about 8 feet away from the theater -- so additional capacity for breakers and wiring is easily doable (and even moreso before the bathroom is done -- the bathroom is between the breaker box and the theater so I can run wiring through unfinished bathroom ceiling joists to get the theater.)
furnace is in attic, No existing ductwork in the basement at all. Heating and AC is only going to the main level (it's a ranch-style). If I decide to go with a not-floor installed heating plan, I'll probably put one of those 240V / 5KW Cadet wall heaters (something like this one, not settled exactly on which model yet) in and have a new breaker installed and have it hardwired. But the idea of warm feet and distributed floor radiating heat sounds nice.
Also, I my question above , if I wasn't clear -- wasn't talking about baseboard heaters -- I was talking about actual flooring heat. Like here.
The theater and a half bath (which is still completely undone, all I have is plumbing stampouts, framing and wiring in place) are my main concerns for heating. it's on a concrete foundation now with carpeting that I'm ok keeping but also completely fine with ripping up and putting something else down if need be.
One upside is that when we moved in I had a subpanel put in off the breaker box and that's only about 8 feet away from the theater -- so additional capacity for breakers and wiring is easily doable (and even moreso before the bathroom is done -- the bathroom is between the breaker box and the theater so I can run wiring through unfinished bathroom ceiling joists to get the theater.)
furnace is in attic, No existing ductwork in the basement at all. Heating and AC is only going to the main level (it's a ranch-style). If I decide to go with a not-floor installed heating plan, I'll probably put one of those 240V / 5KW Cadet wall heaters (something like this one, not settled exactly on which model yet) in and have a new breaker installed and have it hardwired. But the idea of warm feet and distributed floor radiating heat sounds nice.
Also, I my question above , if I wasn't clear -- wasn't talking about baseboard heaters -- I was talking about actual flooring heat. Like here.
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Mr. Ected
Footballguy
Fat Nick
Footballguy
I haven't installed it, but I saw them put it in our master bath. Electric type. Basically it's a grid of heating element wire that you lay down and can trim to size. You join cut ends together to basically create one giant snaking heated element. They then put down something that looked like self-leveling compound over the heating element, then tiled over that. Seemed pretty easy IMO. Works well in our 2nd floor master bathroom. The thermostat is programmable, and I have it to cut on in the morning and evening. It does heat the bathroom some, but I honestly view it as more of a "comfort on my feet" feature than a real heating method.
Our basement was finished last year. We put carpet down in most of it, which helps with the cold feet. No HVAC down there. No need for it in the summer as it stays cool. In the winter, I've got 2 baseboard heaters that I can crank up. If I turn them both on and (VERY IMPORTANTLY) close the door to upstairs, it gets nice and toasty down there in about 15 minutes. If I leave the door to the upstairs open, I lose 75% of my heat and it never gets warm. Heat just rises up and away.
I'm not sure how I'd feel about a heated floor in the basement. I feel like it might either 1) not get hot enough to actually maintain temperature, or 2) cost a ton to keep going. I think you'd have to basically leave it on almost all the time to actually heat the basement. The floors take a while to get hot, and they have to get hot to heat the room. I feel like there's no way you could leave them off for a day or two, then decide you wanted to go hang out and turn them on and have much of any heat (other than just the floor) for several hours.
ETA - That SunTouch system you linked in the This Old House article is the brand we have. Been working well in our master bath since 2014.
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The Tick
Footballguy
And STILL no response from my HOA.... at some point this has to be illegal to prevent me from doing something to my house/yard and not telling my why it is against the HOA rules.
There is a board meeting on Monday and I think I am going to need to go and complain there. Damn that sounds miserable.
msommer
Footballguy
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wilked
Footballguy
I wouldn’t do hydro unless he already had hot water radiators
I also wouldn’t do floor heating in a basement. Doing it on say a 2nd floor bath is within the thermal envelope and doesn’t waste heat in one direction
do electric baseboards, try and create a thermal envelope with insulation to the theater room (and thus leave the rest of the basement untreated).
The Hank
Footballguy
Minor Smart House tinkering happening past week or so - finally got a smart hub (Wink 2) for Christmas that came w/ 2 smart bulbs and put those in basement where kids leave the lights on all the damn time - have a TPlink smart plug that I got as well to control the xbox (2 yr old kept turning on and off the xbox) - using Amazon dot to control everything including Nest and Harmony as well (since Wink doesn't control the switch). Everything working fairly good so far
Also got a Lowe's gift card and was thinking of beginning to get a smart switch for living room, or a switch/sensor to control garage door.
Next big project is to redesign landscape feature that came in shambles when we purchased house - that probably won't begin until another month or 2.
Also got a Lowe's gift card and was thinking of beginning to get a smart switch for living room, or a switch/sensor to control garage door.
Next big project is to redesign landscape feature that came in shambles when we purchased house - that probably won't begin until another month or 2.
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AhrnCityPahnder
Yinz-o-riffic
I came to the conclusion that planning heating solutions when it's 11 degrees is a lot like going grocery shopping when you're starving. I'll revisit in 2 months.
Dan Lambskin
Footballguy
We looked at doing it in our breakfast nook that is over a crawlspace but it seemed like too much of a pain in the ###AhrnCityPahnder said:
I asked one of the guys at home depot about it and he said his advice would be to tell your wife "it's a crawlspace honey, it's gonna be cold"
offdee
Footballguy
I want to open up an interior wall from the kitchen to the dining room to make it flow better. I do know this wall is load bearing so a big header of some sort will need to be put in. The other issue though is that there is some vent ducting in that wall that goes up to the upstairs bedrooms. This duct work is just for the return air ducts upstairs and not the main ones that blow out heat/cool.
Im not removing an entire interior wall. If it's 15 feet across presently, I want to open up about 6 feet of it so still have the remaining 9ft of present wall staying. How big of an issue is this to reroute that return air duct work? Can you put bends in it to go behind the remaining 9 ft of wall and then reconnect in the ceiling to upstairs? (So no longer a straight shot to the upstairs rooms)
Im not removing an entire interior wall. If it's 15 feet across presently, I want to open up about 6 feet of it so still have the remaining 9ft of present wall staying. How big of an issue is this to reroute that return air duct work? Can you put bends in it to go behind the remaining 9 ft of wall and then reconnect in the ceiling to upstairs? (So no longer a straight shot to the upstairs rooms)
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Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
Don't know about your duct question, but what's under the floor of your new opening? 6' isn't a monster span, but you should have something to carry the point loads from that header.
Dan Lambskin
Footballguy
I mean technically you can probably do it, but I'd consult an HVAC expert on what it will do to your airflow and stuff
as for the load bearing wall I had some experience with that last year. Make sure they know what they're doing. I think we had a 10' span (somethings like that anyway) and had to get 2 LVL boards of the proper heights and screw them together)
Dan Lambskin
Footballguy
Yeah that's a good point too. IIRC you helped answer some of my questions earlier this year
McJose
Footballguy
offdee
Footballguy
Below it is a basement and in that basement ceiling has a steel beam spanning the entire length of the house (which is directly below this area that I want to open up)
offdee
Footballguy
Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
I'd still either double up the joists below or put blocking between them if the load is coming down between joists.
What's happening above? Is that wall carrying floor on both sides? If so, how far on each side to the next closest bearing? Are the joists above continuous or do they meet and overlap across the top of the wall.
offdee
Footballguy
That I don't know as ceilings are all enclosed with drywall. Directly above is two 2nd floor bedrooms...this wall continuing up is the wall that separates the two bedrooms (and conceals the return air ducting in those upstairs bedrooms). Each bedroom is about 11' wide to the exterior bearing walls.
Basically it's one big load bearing span down the middle of the home and then the exterior load walls.
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Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
Ok, look at the little picture in the upper right of Page 3. See the "span carried"? That's what you'll need to know to size your beam (we already know the beam opening). See the vertical posts at either end of the beam? Those transfer the point loads down - that's why I asked what was below, because you can't just have them sit on unreinforced floor.
What's your ceiling height?
Dan Lambskin
Footballguy
I think $100-150 or so, but my buddy does building and remodeling so I just covered the cost of the material and paid for pizza and beer
I did all the drywall work though, he just did demo and rough install
I think they're typically something you need to get from a lumber yard or special order form a Menard / Home Depot
Any specifics on what to do Uruk definitely knows what he's talking about
offdee
Footballguy
I edited my post you quoted while you were replying. I added this info....
Each bedroom is about 11' wide to the exterior bearing walls. Basically it's one big load bearing span down the middle of the home and then the exterior load walls.
---
Ceiling height is standard 8 ft I believe. But there is already a walkway opening between the kitchen and dining room with a header....basically we just want to make that present 36" opening and widen it to about 9' total. So, the beam in the ceiling doesn't need to be hidden up in the ceiling or anything...just want to continue the exposed header from that existing opening.
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Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
Ok, so appears you'll need 2 each - 1.75" thick by 9.25" deep (height) sistered together. It's been half an eon or so since I designed/sold LVLs, so you may want to check with whoever you buy them from, but you used to be able just to nail them together (I'm hoping they don't recommend bolting nowadays but, if so, not that big a deal). Get a nail gun and put a bazillion 3.25" sinkers in those beams to tie them together. Double (or triple) up on your jack studs to carry each end of the beam.
Those two together will be the same thickness as a 2x4 (I'm assuming you have a 2x4 wall you're wrecking) so the vertical fit would be seamless. You will have a 9.25" bulkhead hanging dow but, if your ceiling's 8', anyone shorter than Kareem Abdul Jabbar will be fine without a head-bump.
You SHOULD have blocking below if that wall is over a beam but, if you have an easy way to check, you should. Those point loads will want to rock the floor joists below and that can cause cracks and other unpleasant things to happen.
Oh, and have whoever you're buying the beams from check my beam sizing. You may live in some funky jurisdiction that has its own set of rules, though I've never run across it. These should be off-the-shelf sizes for any self-respecting lumber yard.
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offdee
Footballguy
Sweet, thanks for the help! Now just gotta figure out the whole air return ducting issue...think that will probably be the bigger pain in the A (aka expensive)
Dan Lambskin
Footballguy
We used these screws for mine...not sure what length you'll need
https://www.fastenmaster.com/products/flatlok-structural-wood-screw.html
The Tick
Footballguy
So after a month I finally have a response. They are saying that a pergola must be free standing, if it attaches to a roof it is no longer a pergola but an extension of the roof and violates this code in our documents:
"Structural roof supports for covered patios shall use masonry matching the front and sides of the first floor of the house. Cedar post supports are prohibited unless they specifically match the design on the front of the original house. Roof supports shall have solid foundations attached to the main foundation and suitable for supporting the roof addition."
I feel they are completely reading this rule wrong, and that is really for if i were to actually try and extend my roof to cover a patio. Just because i use the house structure as an attachment point, which seems reasonably standard around here, that doesn't make it a part of the roof to me. It seems beyond the point of stupidity that i could keep the design mainly as it is, remove the brackets to the roof and put down 2 more cedar posts that would land largely in the middle of the overall patio footprint, and all the sudden the design passes. "We don't like the cedar posts, add more and it's fine!" I could have a hearing, but i'm not good with that stuff and don't think i'd help my case. So i guess i'll have to look at re-designing with either 4 cedar posts to make it free standing, or change the 2 cedar posts to stone as they request (which is funny as stone technically isn't a material used on the front and sides of my house, it's brick).
