What's new
Fantasy Football - Footballguys Forums

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Home-owners...What are your current projects? (2 Viewers)

Artificial turf is not the same as artificial grass
Serious question, what's the difference? A quick search suggested people use them interchangeably. 

Edit: looks like artificial turf is the old carpet they lay on top of concrete, whereas artificial grass refers to the newer stuff more like grass.

I played college ball on the newer material and the little rubber pellets on that stuff heat up like crazy. You can see a haze on the field even when the ambient temp isn't that hot but the field is crazy hot. But if that's not the material people are thinking of them nevermind. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just installed these motion sensor/dimmer switches in my basement

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Maestro-C-L-Dimmer-1-5-Amp-Motion-Sensor-Single-Pole-and-Multi-Location-White-MSCL-OP153MH-WH/203821815

I'm not sure any home improvement has ever made me happier, not sure why but my kids(and wife) leaving the basement lights on drove me nuts.  Sometimes they'd be on for a week+ if we didn't use the basement.
So I can picture it...  is there multiple switches?  How long do you have the light going on?

I am picturing a door, when opened a stairway down.  On the wall right there is a light switch.  Then down into a large basement.

If the sensor gives you, say, 10 mins - what if you're down there 12 mins?  Do you need to go back upstairs to trip the sensor?  Or is there a sensor downstairs also.  And if downstairs, how sensitive it is if I'm working on the other side of the basement?

Trying to see if it makes sense for me...

 
So I can picture it...  is there multiple switches?  How long do you have the light going on?

I am picturing a door, when opened a stairway down.  On the wall right there is a light switch.  Then down into a large basement.

If the sensor gives you, say, 10 mins - what if you're down there 12 mins?  Do you need to go back upstairs to trip the sensor?  Or is there a sensor downstairs also.  And if downstairs, how sensitive it is if I'm working on the other side of the basement?

Trying to see if it makes sense for me...
My set-up has a switch at the top of the stairs which is a 3 way that has another switch at the bottom (I did not motion sensor this switch since it's the stairs down and I can shut off from the top if left on)

Bottom of steps is a single switch which cover half of the basement, added the motion sensor here.

Halfway across basement is a second switch which is the other half of the basement, added motion switch here.

There's a back room with a computer, treadmill and peloton but the switch is outside the room so no motion there yet because when you're in that room you can't see the switch.  I'd like to add something here but haven't figured it out yet.

Switches can be adjusted for time, mine are default 5 min but I think can be set for up to 30, I didn't read the instructions too carefully because I was busy popping champagne bottles and celebrating how excited I was.

 
A few years ago I put some new grout on my bathtub faucet/dials. Now this grout is red from hard water stains. There is also mold growing on the grout.

Could you tell me the best way to completely remove this grout? Then what kind of grout should I purchase to put in to avoid these problems in the future. I must have f'ed up before. 

 
A few years ago I put some new grout on my bathtub faucet/dials. Now this grout is red from hard water stains. There is also mold growing on the grout.

Could you tell me the best way to completely remove this grout? Then what kind of grout should I purchase to put in to avoid these problems in the future. I must have f'ed up before. 
They make manual grout removal tools but the shark move is one of those german vibrating multitool thingys with the straight teeth.  They absolutely wreck grout in a hurry.

 
A few years ago I put some new grout on my bathtub faucet/dials. Now this grout is red from hard water stains. There is also mold growing on the grout.

Could you tell me the best way to completely remove this grout? Then what kind of grout should I purchase to put in to avoid these problems in the future. I must have f'ed up before. 
Wait...grout or caulk? 

 
A few years ago I put some new grout on my bathtub faucet/dials. Now this grout is red from hard water stains. There is also mold growing on the grout.

Could you tell me the best way to completely remove this grout? Then what kind of grout should I purchase to put in to avoid these problems in the future. I must have f'ed up before. 
Add a photo 

 
thats caulk not grout and the red looks to me to be probably iron deposits possibly combined with calcium and lime use some of that clr stuff to clean it off or try some vinegar in water heat it up and spray it on there then wipe it off basically when you have issues with that stuff in your water you have to stay on top of it to prevent build up take that to the bank brochacho

 
ps to replace the caulk you literally cut the old stuff out there of there clean the hell out of everything and then reapply new caulk using a caulk gun and possibly a caulk tool for corners if you have one take that to the bank brohan

 
Last edited by a moderator:
also to complete my thoughts grout is the stuff that is literally between the tiles it is normally quick set and it hardens up caulk is used at the edges of tiles surfaces and at penetrations through them like where the faucet and handles come through and it should stay somewhat pliable and softer than grout assuming it is silicon based and it should be replaced every 5 to 7 years caulk is not intended to last forever either inside or outside of your house so the same goes to anywhere its being used to keep water out of your home it is a maintenance issue and that is all there is to it take that to the bank brohans 

 
Just realized this new house we got has used over 8,000 kWh in its first month, almost as much as my last house did all of last year.  Any ideas on how to figure out what the problem is? About to start flipping breakers to see if something is drawing a lot of loading.  The temperature has been fairly moderate as well. 

 
Just realized this new house we got has used over 8,000 kWh in its first month, almost as much as my last house did all of last year.  Any ideas on how to figure out what the problem is? About to start flipping breakers to see if something is drawing a lot of loading.  The temperature has been fairly moderate as well. 
do you have an electric water heater or electric baseboard heat anywhere those are two big draws but yeah that is pretty wierd how did the two houses stack up squarefoot wise brohan take that to the bank

 
i just looked it up the average power used by a house per month is less than 1000 kwh per month so yeah something is messed up take that to the bank brohan

 
are you running your ac without knowing it now i am curious to see what you can find out so please keep us posted take that to the bank bromigo

 
are you running your ac without knowing it now i am curious to see what you can find out so please keep us posted take that to the bank bromigo
We got a brand new air handler installed. We tried to run the upstairs AC unit a few days ago, the fan ran constantly but the outside unit never started.  Turns out the unit was installed incorrectly so it was running and never blowing cold air, thus never getting below the set temperature.  

 
  • Thanks
Reactions: SWC
Remodeling basement into Home Theater/Family/Game room.

11' x 38' room. It was just block foundation that the previous owner painted white. It will include a theater area, dart board, game table, and library corner.

So far I have:

  1. Moved city water meter with PEX into adjacent unfinished room.
  2. Applied water proofing paint to all exterior walls.
  3. Installed 2" R10 Owens Corning Foamular XPS Insulation to all exterior walls and exterior joist cavities.
  4. Framed up 2x4 walls.
  5. Wired outlets throughout the room.
  6. Sheetrock, mud & tape, and painted all walls. (left ceiling unfinished for now to finish up electrical improvements to other parts of the house.)
  7. Added heat duct and air returns to the room.
Currently working on installing 18 recessed lighting fixtures.

Still to do:

  1. Apply adhesive along all subfloor/joist intersections while the ceiling is still open to minimize floor squeaks from above.
  2. Install soundproofing insulation to joist bays.
  3. Frame out alcove into adjacent room that will hold 70" TV and front speakers. (This may someday house a drop down projection theater screen as well)
  4. Run wire for surround and atmos speakers and possible future projector.
  5. Add shelving to wall nook for Audio/Video components
  6. Sheetrock and finish ceiling
  7. Floor covering
  8. Trim
 
With the increased effectiveness of some of these new routers (Google Wifi, etc), and the trend toward wirelessly connected devices, I’m not sure why you’d need wiring all over the house. 
I wired a whole house work cat5 back in 2001... Guess what technology hit the streets shortly thereafter?

 
Starting on an outdoor kitchen. Here is the plan:

https://imgur.com/gallery/vugJLAy

Appliances are a small fortune but super high quality and figure I’ll just do this once.  Nice 42” gas grill built in; two drawer fridge (beers on top; kids drinks and waters on bottom); 18” sink; a slide out dual trash can thing; and plenty of storage.  Island will be done in a stone veneer, doing a custom polished concrete countertop. Will run gas, water and electric to the island.  Will have a couple outlets and want to do some downlighting under the counter to make some nice ambiance out there at night.  The island is about 12’ Long, will make it a little tight to fit where we have it situated on the uncovered patio, but we taped it out yesterday and it should be OK I think.  Should be plenty of room for 5 stools, and we have a covered patio just steps away from this that has more seating, so we should be all set.

Technically would require a permit and variance to do this, but it’s a huge headache and we decided not to bother.  Just going for it.  We’ll be in this house for at least 15-20 years, and we can deal with any headaches then if Trump hasn’t blowed us all up first.

Anything I’m missing or forgetting here?

TIA

 
Hey Good Buddy’s! How do I handle this one? 

Selling my house. Built in 1969. My realtor said that my bathroom fan will most likely get dinged by the inspector because it vents right into the attic, which I guess was a common practice then? 

I’m putting a new fan in anyways, so I figured I will run the exhaust outside.

Question is, where? It seems it would be easier to run it out the wall like a dryer vent versus the ceiling/roof.

1. Any problem with that? 

2. My exterior siding is Stucco. Does that change any opinion? Not sure how hard it is to cut through stucco.

OR..... what’s the likelihood of the inspector getting up into the attic and checking out the fan? 

 Thanks! 
Couple things.  First, check to see if a duct down to your soffit would meet code.  You're in Ohio, right?  Damn near every house we looked at up there had this set up as their "retro fit".  That would be easiest if you can get away with it.  If that's not ok, running out the side of the house shouldn't be a problem.  Second, if you go out the side of your house make sure you have the correct drill bits to get through the stucco and all "stuff" that comes with it.  With stucco there's typically a layer of sheathing put on the plywood for the stucco to stick too.  That can be a problem.  If your house is concrete block, you most likely won't have to deal with that, but I assume it's stick built and not concrete block.

 
commish i love ya and i agree that if you can go to the soffit do it because it doesnt involve cutting any holes but if you cannot then i disagree entirely about going through the wall stucco usually has metal mesh and its own drainage plane that you dont want to mess with because if you do it wrong it can lead to water infiltration problems in the future i would go through the roof hire a roofer to pop in a vent which should be pretty cheap overhead of the fan and then you just connect the pipe from where your fan is to the vent easy peasy lemon squeezy but that is just me talkin take that to the bank bromigo  

 
Starting on an outdoor kitchen. Here is the plan:

https://imgur.com/gallery/vugJLAy

Appliances are a small fortune but super high quality and figure I’ll just do this once.  Nice 42” gas grill built in; two drawer fridge (beers on top; kids drinks and waters on bottom); 18” sink; a slide out dual trash can thing; and plenty of storage.  Island will be done in a stone veneer, doing a custom polished concrete countertop. Will run gas, water and electric to the island.  Will have a couple outlets and want to do some downlighting under the counter to make some nice ambiance out there at night.  The island is about 12’ Long, will make it a little tight to fit where we have it situated on the uncovered patio, but we taped it out yesterday and it should be OK I think.  Should be plenty of room for 5 stools, and we have a covered patio just steps away from this that has more seating, so we should be all set.

Technically would require a permit and variance to do this, but it’s a huge headache and we decided not to bother.  Just going for it.  We’ll be in this house for at least 15-20 years, and we can deal with any headaches then if Trump hasn’t blowed us all up first.

Anything I’m missing or forgetting here?

TIA
you are forgetting to adopt me bromigo holy smokes all i can really say is enjoy that puppy with your family and keep on taking it to the bank

 
I'll give you my :2cents:  on appliances.  We did extensive research when we redid our kitchen.  Long story short, brand naming is much like cars.  For the billions of options out there, only a handful of companies actually make them.  We looked at high end, low end etc and came to the conclusion that something in the middle, upper middle that looked really good was the best option.  We did a line of Kitchen Aid.  Fridge, gas cooktop, dishwasher, oven with warming drawer etc.  Our decision was driven primarily by the dishwasher though.  We wanted quiet and efficient and the Kitchen Aid seemed to be the sweet spot.  It was only slightly "louder" than Bosch.  We never heard it and it was open to our TV room.  The second consideration was the cooktop, BTUs etc.  The rest?  We just picked from the line....there wasn't much difference in fridge, ovens etc.  Going with a package saves you money as well.  

 
commish i love ya and i agree that if you can go to the soffit do it because it doesnt involve cutting any holes but if you cannot then i disagree entirely about going through the wall stucco usually has metal mesh and its own drainage plane that you dont want to mess with because if you do it wrong it can lead to water infiltration problems in the future i would go through the roof hire a roofer to pop in a vent which should be pretty cheap overhead of the fan and then you just connect the pipe from where your fan is to the vent easy peasy lemon squeezy but that is just me talkin take that to the bank bromigo  
See, I am more concerned about messing up my roof than the stucco on the house, but my house is block, so the stucco is put right over the concrete block.  As long as you stay out of the channels on stick built you should be ok, but I agree this is a consideration that I hadn't thought of in my post mainly because I didn't have to worry about it.  

 
  • Thanks
Reactions: SWC
Has anyone installed a mini split AC?  I don't want one of those big rectangular things on the wall but it appears they now have "cassettes" that go in the ceiling.  This may be an option for me at the end of the line.  My unit is undersized, but in good condition.  I don't really want to get a new ac and I feel like I could still have major fluctuations in temperatures just because the room is at the end of the duct.  It's the mbr and my wife will hot box the room with her hair dryer.  It's insane.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
if you are having end of duct issues you probably just need to balance the system better but i defer to chief d on that one he is an hvac wizbang take that to the bank bromigos 

 
Taking down another wall this time in the kitchen/dining room.  Also raising the ceiling in the kitchen, so should be fun.

 
Punxsutawney Phil said:
Has anyone installed a mini split AC?  I don't want one of those big rectangular things on the wall but it appears they now have "cassettes" that go in the ceiling.  This may be an option for me at the end of the line.  My unit is undersized, but in good condition.  I don't really want to get a new ac and I feel like I could still have major fluctuations in temperatures just because the room is at the end of the duct.  It's the mbr and my wife will hot box the room with her hair dryer.  It's insane.
If you’ve already got ducts installed - stay ducted. If you need to fix a balancing issue fix it. New ductless will be very expensive comparatively 

 
New roof getting installed in early March.  Went with one roofer mostly bc he said he wouldn’t take my gutters down, only loosen the clips and tighten them back up once they put the new drip edge on.  I’ve heard that gutters never go back up the same way twice so I assumed if I went with a roofer that would take them down and put them back up, I’d be on the hook for even more 💰 to get them fixed.  No thanks.  Should be an interesting experience.  Need to prep some things in advance, but that’s the easy part.  It’s giving them the check that’s the hard part.   :(

 
Finally finished up my wiring project.  6 Cat6 cables run from the basement up to the attic.  Completed the run to the master bedroom TV consisting of 3 of the Cat6 lines - 1 for internet for smart TV, 1 for HDMI over Cat6 via balun, 1 for USB over Cat6 via balun.  

End result?  My full AV rack is now available using my 2nd output from my home theater system.  I can also play my XBox up in the bedroom with the controller now (albeit wired in via USB, but it works!).

Future enhancements -

-Figure out how to program up some universal remotes to turn all the various things on from the bedroom (I use the app on my phone now). 

-Take 1 of the Cat6 pairs and plug into a PoE injector and install security cameras around the house.  

 
Anybody ever refinish a concrete garage floor slab?  Our garage floor had a nice new epoxy finish put down shortly before we bought the house - I realize now it's likely because the slab underneath wasn't in great shape.  I'm not talking about crumbling away or anything (house is 20 years old), but the epoxy is starting to chip up and wear off in spots (some as big as a sheet of notebook). I've also got some major spalling in spots.  When we first moved in, I'd work in the cars with jack stands, and the spots where the stands pushed down into the concrete made little dents that over time I think absorbed water and eroded the concrete a little.

I'm considering renting a concrete floor grinder, grinding away all the old epoxy and some of the spots where the concrete integrity was compromised.  I'd then fill with a patch filler, then re-surface.

I've got a 3 car garage - Is this going to take me weeks to finish or does a floor grinder do pretty fast work?

If I ultimately want to re-epoxy, should I put down some kind of skim-coat/resurfacer after I fill the spalling spots with patch repair?

Is there something better than epoxy?  I'm less concerned with the aesthetics than I am with protecting the slab and making sure it doesn't break down again.

 
Fat Nick said:
Anybody ever refinish a concrete garage floor slab?  Our garage floor had a nice new epoxy finish put down shortly before we bought the house - I realize now it's likely because the slab underneath wasn't in great shape.  I'm not talking about crumbling away or anything (house is 20 years old), but the epoxy is starting to chip up and wear off in spots (some as big as a sheet of notebook). I've also got some major spalling in spots.  When we first moved in, I'd work in the cars with jack stands, and the spots where the stands pushed down into the concrete made little dents that over time I think absorbed water and eroded the concrete a little.

I'm considering renting a concrete floor grinder, grinding away all the old epoxy and some of the spots where the concrete integrity was compromised.  I'd then fill with a patch filler, then re-surface.

I've got a 3 car garage - Is this going to take me weeks to finish or does a floor grinder do pretty fast work?

If I ultimately want to re-epoxy, should I put down some kind of skim-coat/resurfacer after I fill the spalling spots with patch repair?

Is there something better than epoxy?  I'm less concerned with the aesthetics than I am with protecting the slab and making sure it doesn't break down again.
Seems like a lot of work for a garage.  Why are you worried about the slab?   

 
Fat Nick said:
Anybody ever refinish a concrete garage floor slab?  Our garage floor had a nice new epoxy finish put down shortly before we bought the house - I realize now it's likely because the slab underneath wasn't in great shape.  I'm not talking about crumbling away or anything (house is 20 years old), but the epoxy is starting to chip up and wear off in spots (some as big as a sheet of notebook). I've also got some major spalling in spots.  When we first moved in, I'd work in the cars with jack stands, and the spots where the stands pushed down into the concrete made little dents that over time I think absorbed water and eroded the concrete a little.

I'm considering renting a concrete floor grinder, grinding away all the old epoxy and some of the spots where the concrete integrity was compromised.  I'd then fill with a patch filler, then re-surface.

I've got a 3 car garage - Is this going to take me weeks to finish or does a floor grinder do pretty fast work?

If I ultimately want to re-epoxy, should I put down some kind of skim-coat/resurfacer after I fill the spalling spots with patch repair?

Is there something better than epoxy?  I'm less concerned with the aesthetics than I am with protecting the slab and making sure it doesn't break down again.
Had to rent one for a 20' by 27' patio.  It took a couple hours but was messy.  Get the one that you can feed water to it.  To limit the dust.  Gl.

 
Seems like a lot of work for a garage.  Why are you worried about the slab?   
It's mainly the spalling - it just seems like there are a lot of divots in the slab now.  Started marble sized, now I've got a few that are golf-ball sized.  Basically, you pull a wet car in, the water settles in the divots, the concrete in the divot absorbs the water, weakens, and then the divot gets deeper.  I feel like at some point I need to address this or the divot is going to turn into a full-on hole.  It seemed to me that the best way was to remove the existing epoxy (because patching OVER the epoxy isn't really going to work well), patch the spalling holes, then re-surface with something to prevent water from interacting again...Is my thinking incorrect?  Other thoughts?

 
It's mainly the spalling - it just seems like there are a lot of divots in the slab now.  Started marble sized, now I've got a few that are golf-ball sized.  Basically, you pull a wet car in, the water settles in the divots, the concrete in the divot absorbs the water, weakens, and then the divot gets deeper.  I feel like at some point I need to address this or the divot is going to turn into a full-on hole.  It seemed to me that the best way was to remove the existing epoxy (because patching OVER the epoxy isn't really going to work well), patch the spalling holes, then re-surface with something to prevent water from interacting again...Is my thinking incorrect?  Other thoughts?
I don't know much about this.  But couldn't you just fill the holes with some Quickcrete concrete repair and epoxy over those?

 
I don't know much about this.  But couldn't you just fill the holes with some Quickcrete concrete repair and epoxy over those?
not generally quickcrete because it does not bond really well and will just eventually separate and pop there are good solutions for this out there talk to a concrete shop or a solid hardware store normally you want a epoxy product that also has mass and will fill the divots and holes take that to the bank bromigos 

 
Wife dropped her ring down the drain.  Figured no big deal, just unscrew the p-trap.  Whoever did the plumbing on thus house should have their license revoked.  Realized the p-trap was glued in.  Looked at rest of the house and all of them are.  Idiots.

 
shuke said:
I don't know much about this.  But couldn't you just fill the holes with some Quickcrete concrete repair and epoxy over those?
...Maybe.  I guess as long as whatever I'm epoxying to is firm and level.  But at a minimum I have to remove the existing epoxy first.  I know that much.  That requires either chemical stripping or a grinder.  I figure the grinder is honestly the lesser of two evils.  I'm not a big fan of strippers....anymore.........after my 20's.    :bag:

 
Anybody ever refinish a concrete garage floor slab?  Our garage floor had a nice new epoxy finish put down shortly before we bought the house - I realize now it's likely because the slab underneath wasn't in great shape.  I'm not talking about crumbling away or anything (house is 20 years old), but the epoxy is starting to chip up and wear off in spots (some as big as a sheet of notebook). I've also got some major spalling in spots.  When we first moved in, I'd work in the cars with jack stands, and the spots where the stands pushed down into the concrete made little dents that over time I think absorbed water and eroded the concrete a little.

I'm considering renting a concrete floor grinder, grinding away all the old epoxy and some of the spots where the concrete integrity was compromised.  I'd then fill with a patch filler, then re-surface.

I've got a 3 car garage - Is this going to take me weeks to finish or does a floor grinder do pretty fast work?

If I ultimately want to re-epoxy, should I put down some kind of skim-coat/resurfacer after I fill the spalling spots with patch repair?

Is there something better than epoxy?  I'm less concerned with the aesthetics than I am with protecting the slab and making sure it doesn't break down again.
I did a garage floor with a non-mix epoxy, looked nice but began peeling up.  First hot tire spots, then general wear places.  It's probably something that needs to be applied every 3 yrs to look good.  

If I had to do it over I would probably still go the same route, even the scratched up areas look better than the ugly slab that was there.  The only thing I can think of that would have been better, and a lot more work, would have been to grind it, and just polish / stain the concrete.

If you are going to go through the trouble of grinding, or are concerned with it holding up, then I would pay someone who has a good guarantee to come in and to the nice speckled stuff.  Not the DIY stuff.

If there are actual spots that the slab is sinking, then you need to have someone come and drill holes and inject some polylift.

 
My current project last night was calling a dozen plumbers to come by after our main sewage line backed up and our basement bathroom and laundry room filled with backed up sewer water.  That was fun.

 
My current project last night was calling a dozen plumbers to come by after our main sewage line backed up and our basement bathroom and laundry room filled with backed up sewer water.  That was fun.
What ended up being the blockage? 

 
My current project last night was calling a dozen plumbers to come by after our main sewage line backed up and our basement bathroom and laundry room filled with backed up sewer water.  That was fun.
I'm curious how much an on call plumber cost in your area.  

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top