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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter wilked
- Start date
UOFI_316
Footballguy
Sorry for the hipple.
For everyone with the sewer line issues from the last few months. Make sure to get the lines scoped (as was mentioned) but make sure you go from an inside cleanout and not just from something in the yeard (unless they can scope back under the house from there). In most houses the sewer line that is directly under your house is a 4" cast iron pipe, when it gets into the yard it turns into a 6" clay pipe. Guess what spot they didn't use to use a coupling for? I ended up having a 2' long root ball from a set of bushes that were along the house. The roots all got in at the transitiion from cast iron to clay pipe. Turns out plumbers would just stick the clay pipe 6" or so over the cast iron and call it good. I have 2 contractor grade roto rooters that I used to use on my sewer to clear it out (that is a fun thing to do at midnight). Turns out when I was "clearing" it I was really just opening a small hole through the root ball, which a month or so later would get filled back in. Finally called in the pros. The scoped it to find all the issues, hydro jetted it to get rid of the root balls, re scoped it, and then repaired it. We ended up getting 15' of sewer replaced so a proper cleanout could be installed (previous ####### owners installed a Y instead of a T so I couldn't go backwards) and then we lined 100' from that point to the city main across the street. Nice way to spend $15k on a hole in your yard.
For everyone with the sewer line issues from the last few months. Make sure to get the lines scoped (as was mentioned) but make sure you go from an inside cleanout and not just from something in the yeard (unless they can scope back under the house from there). In most houses the sewer line that is directly under your house is a 4" cast iron pipe, when it gets into the yard it turns into a 6" clay pipe. Guess what spot they didn't use to use a coupling for? I ended up having a 2' long root ball from a set of bushes that were along the house. The roots all got in at the transitiion from cast iron to clay pipe. Turns out plumbers would just stick the clay pipe 6" or so over the cast iron and call it good. I have 2 contractor grade roto rooters that I used to use on my sewer to clear it out (that is a fun thing to do at midnight). Turns out when I was "clearing" it I was really just opening a small hole through the root ball, which a month or so later would get filled back in. Finally called in the pros. The scoped it to find all the issues, hydro jetted it to get rid of the root balls, re scoped it, and then repaired it. We ended up getting 15' of sewer replaced so a proper cleanout could be installed (previous ####### owners installed a Y instead of a T so I couldn't go backwards) and then we lined 100' from that point to the city main across the street. Nice way to spend $15k on a hole in your yard.
Punxsutawney Phil
Footballguy
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Punxsutawney Phil
Footballguy
Just a little bleach and water. I tried a pressure washer on vinyl fence and bleach and brush/sponge worked much better. Don't use too much bleach as it can be bad for the vinyl, so I hear.
Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
Thanks. I googled it and all I got were product websites. I'll cut the bleach with water and use a scrubber to get the worst.
Nick Vermeil
Footballguy
We're buying a house in the Hudson Valley and will have a few projects that I'll need advice on. First up - RADON!!! The inspection pulled a reading of 12.5 pCi/L which will require mitigation obviously. Anyone have experience with this? I'm just wondering how likely it is we can get it down below the recommended level without breaking the bank. We will get a $1500 credit from the seller.
SWC
Bromigo
ity was a while ago but a buddy of mine bought a place that had a picoliter of like 15 and they put in a mitigation system for like 900 bucks it just taps into the drain tile at the edge of the basement slab and vents outside they put a cap on the sump crock and thats it got him down to like 1 picoliter or whatever there are companies that do it and 15 hondo ought to get it done call around or ask your realtor they know these people take that to the bank bromigo
ragincajun
Footballguy
ragincajun
Footballguy
Anyone have a good recommendation for a solid wood filler I can drill holes in?
SWC
Bromigo
what is the issue you are dealing with is this an instance where you are trying to put screws back in to a hole that has opened up or what give us more details because they matter here brohan take that to the bank
SWC
Bromigo
anyhow absent more detail you probably want a two part epoxy filler which is different than putty epoxy sets up and is actually stronger than wood once it sets you can drill into it etc if you are dealing with reusing a hole then i would use epoxy around a sized dowel set it in let it set and then drive your screw it will be sturdyer also just buy a longer screw so that you set in to solid wood at the back of the old hole take that that to the bank bromigo
Franknbeans
Footballguy
replacing 2 replacement windows
KCitons
Footballguy
My list is getting longer each day. Today it was windows.
My daughter leaned against one of our double hung windows last fall and cracked the inner thermopayne. So, I removed that, built a plywood insert, and dropped the sash at a window place to have the glass replaced.
Also, my wife and son were moving a piece of furniture past the front door and cracked one of the leaded glass pieces in one of the two entry doors. I wasn't really sure how to fix this, so I have been putting it off. I was going to replace the center glass panel with wood. Instead I had a solid piece of glass made to use as a placeholder for the leaded glass panel. Tomorrow I will try to get the panel out (install the temporary piece) and see if someone can fix the small broken glass piece. Once out, I may try to fix it myself if possible. It's a curved piece of glass, but it's on the outside edge. I've never worked with leaded glass before.
Should be fun.
My daughter leaned against one of our double hung windows last fall and cracked the inner thermopayne. So, I removed that, built a plywood insert, and dropped the sash at a window place to have the glass replaced.
Also, my wife and son were moving a piece of furniture past the front door and cracked one of the leaded glass pieces in one of the two entry doors. I wasn't really sure how to fix this, so I have been putting it off. I was going to replace the center glass panel with wood. Instead I had a solid piece of glass made to use as a placeholder for the leaded glass panel. Tomorrow I will try to get the panel out (install the temporary piece) and see if someone can fix the small broken glass piece. Once out, I may try to fix it myself if possible. It's a curved piece of glass, but it's on the outside edge. I've never worked with leaded glass before.
Should be fun.
Mario Kart
Footballguy
I had a few days off and the weather isn't golfing weather so I tore apart my kitchen and painted my cabinets. I should be done redoing my kitchen tomorrow morning if I wake up early enough. I've been in my house for two years and figure I'd do something different. I also hoped to have painted my bathroom but I don't think I'm going to get that finished. Then again, it is a smaller bathroom that I may get to. Not sure yet.
Mario Kart
Footballguy
bucksoh
Footballguy
Plumbers help needed running two new toilet pipes into horizontal that then goes into a vertical run. Can I run this into https://i.imgur.com/9QlDFhs.jpg the horizontal and run my toilet pipes into both sides or is that against code? Or would I have to run two seperate wyes into the horizontal? TIA if anyone can help with this.
Sand
Footballguy
Toothpicks + wood glue, a bit messy, but easy to put in and once installed is strong and easy to work with.Just don't eat it - you'll be fine.
KCitons
Footballguy
I got the leaded glass panel out cleanly. (well, except for the section that was already broken) It wasn't an easy process. Had to pull all 4 trim pieces out without doing major damage to them. Once they were out, I discovered that the panel was glued/insulated from the other side. Spent quite a bit of time cutting the adhesive with a razor and gently applying pressure from the bottom. I'm not going to attempt to disassemble the panel. I'll leave that to the pro's.
Mario Kart
Footballguy
I'd like to try something but would like some input. I ordered some floating shelves off Amazon and plan to hang a couple in my living room. I thought I'd put my game systems on them with the games I have. However, I'd like to know if anyone has done this with their tv? I'm not looking at the Target one to buy, just wondering if anyone has mounted a shelving unit to the wall to place the TV on? I have an older plasma, so it is heavier than newer TV's. I'd say 30-50 pounds but I really don't know. Here is another look.
Or, would something like this be safer or easier to work with? Again, not sure why Target came up but there has to be similar options out there.
Or, would something like this be safer or easier to work with? Again, not sure why Target came up but there has to be similar options out there.
shadyridr
Footballguy
Mario Kart
Footballguy
https://imgur.com/a/W5U7buN
I tried to post comments in the pictures in the link but am wondering if I can take the drywall down, open the wall, and create a more open environment in my upstairs? Each wall does run from the basement but not sure if they run into the attic. I don't recall them going higher than what is shown but I haven't poked my head into the attic since I bought the house.
I tried to post comments in the pictures in the link but am wondering if I can take the drywall down, open the wall, and create a more open environment in my upstairs? Each wall does run from the basement but not sure if they run into the attic. I don't recall them going higher than what is shown but I haven't poked my head into the attic since I bought the house.
Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
If I'm understanding correctly, that wall is carrying at least the load from those ceiling joists (and maybe the roof load, too). When you say "take the drywall down", you mean the entire wall (studs), right?
Mario Kart
Footballguy
No, I'm thinking it is load bearing so if I took the drywall down, I would keep the studs in there because I wouldn't want to mess with any load bearing wall. But, keeping the studs in there will give the area more light because of the window that is up there. The area is about 14 or so feet deep but it would be a great nook, office, library, something.
Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
Gotcha. The studs are what matter structurally, so it's all aesthetics if you wanna take down the sheet rock and leave open studs. You've got some wiring in there to deal with but, other than that, it's all in how you'd like it to look.
You could put a short beam in there if you wanted to remove some of the studs and open part of it completely.
Punxsutawney Phil
Footballguy
I don't have any toothpicks, will floss picks work?
Mario Kart
Footballguy
I tried opening the attic cover but its either stuck or I'm too chicken to force it open. The area is pretty big and right now its got good light because its sunny out. Opening it up, to me, would just be more welcoming. There is one outlet nearer to the floor and one light switch on that wall. It could be a good 8+ feet of "open" air. The other wall has more electrical. Also, just curious but is this a project worth on taking? I doubt the wall was put up after the house was built so this would be original type stuff. Insulation, maybe?
Went up to look again and there is an outlet on the outside wall (behind me in the picture) and another outlet on the other outside wall. The light switch and outlet on the wall that would be taken down would not been needed. Those other outlets could have a light plugged in if needed. So, in theory, the wall could be completely opened (keeping the studs).
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
wilked
Footballguy
SWC
Bromigo
yeah brohan having a stud wall with nothing else just sort of seems like it would look half done take that to the bank bromigo
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
Mario Kart
Footballguy
My main job is to get rid of my ant problem now. I have them on my counters again however, I saw where those son of #####es are crawling into my kitchen. Through a little hole underneath one of my windows. I couldn't identify outside where the hole was but I saw some caulk that was coming apart and I didn't have caulk so I use some silicone gel (stuff I used in my bathroom sink) and put some on that area outside. I also put some on the area over the hole on the inside. Now I have to wait.
GAlmgren
Footballguy
Don't raise the level of dirt above whatever your concrete stem wall is, minus at least an inch or two. Might be the picture but doesn't look like a lot of room to go up there.
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
Thanks. I was planning on adding some soil but keep it a few inches below the siding. Is that what you mean? The "wall" won't be very high, high enough to keep the dog out.
urbanhack
Fight The Power!
Punxsutawney Phil
Footballguy
They don't sound like the same kind, but I had these microscopic size ants that were giving me a problem a few years back. I didn't realize that they were coming from the built up wet leaves in the gutters.Mario Kart said:
wilked
Footballguy
I think a uniform approach will make gardening much easier. Basically something like thisshuke said:
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-j602wc6a/images/stencil/1024x1024/products/7173/24784/natural-cedar-raised-garden-beds-vegetables-herbs-flowers__73623.1518558216.1280.1280__59589.1520032149.1280.1280__72985.1520643780.jpg?c=2
If I understand correctly you are looking to 'join' the garden to the structure?
Unless you have a lot of sloping there I personally would do the raised beds
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
We looked into boxes like those but decided against them. We only intend to plant a few things.
Yes, “joining” the structure.
wilked
Footballguy
OK.
They make systems specific to that, blocks that stack up well. Not much to it other than a good bit of labor.
How far away is a hose bib? May want to put one nearby if one not already there, make things easy on yourself.
Northern Voice
Footballguy
I've been working on our backyard. We have a raised bungalow with a walkout from the downstairs level and a large deck off our upstairs walkout.
There's a sitting area downstairs and also a hot tub under the upper deck, this is the main area I've been playing with. I've added a bunch of solar "firefly style" string lights under the deck/above the hot tub. Then I bought some larger ones (or at the stuff to make them w/mason jars) to spread around the rest of the backyard that isn't covered by the deck to tie them together.
Similarly, we bought new indoor/outdoor curtains for around the exposed area of the hot tub, the old ones were like a dull tan that I hated but were the only local stopgap options. New ones are navy/white stripe. I've been looking for a patio umbrella to match it and again bring it all together but so far every navy is a bit different.
Also doing a whole bunch of grass seed, fertilizer etc on both front and back. Front grass didn't come back after the winter for some reason. Back grass has been a mess the entire time we've lived here (9 years) thanks to my two big dogs playing and doing their business on it. Will never be perfect, I'd settle for not embarrassing.
My wife has been doing the spare bedroom, it's freshly painted, new painting, new wood structure thing she's making from leftover hardwood floor, new hanging bookshelf etc...
We have her sister from England and her family staying with us in three weeks and then her brother from England and his wife and another couple staying with us in July but basically we do a project a year anyway.
Year 1 - Buy House
Year 2 - Finish Basement - builder did stairs and one bed/bath and hall, we did the main 20 x 20 ish living room area
Year 3 - Interlock brick to expand front driveway
Year 4 - Expand back deck (came with an 8x10 builders deck and no stairs)
Year 5 - Expand back patio (lower level)
Year 6 - Fireplace in lower level
Year 7 - Hot Tub - probably the one that was most impulse and adds no value but we use it a lot
Year 8 - Kitchen projects - backsplash, chalkboard wall, all new light fixtures upstairs
I'm probably forgetting some but I
our house now, it's basically exactly how I want it. And now that it's almost ten years old, I'm sure everything will start breaking.
There's a sitting area downstairs and also a hot tub under the upper deck, this is the main area I've been playing with. I've added a bunch of solar "firefly style" string lights under the deck/above the hot tub. Then I bought some larger ones (or at the stuff to make them w/mason jars) to spread around the rest of the backyard that isn't covered by the deck to tie them together.
Similarly, we bought new indoor/outdoor curtains for around the exposed area of the hot tub, the old ones were like a dull tan that I hated but were the only local stopgap options. New ones are navy/white stripe. I've been looking for a patio umbrella to match it and again bring it all together but so far every navy is a bit different.
Also doing a whole bunch of grass seed, fertilizer etc on both front and back. Front grass didn't come back after the winter for some reason. Back grass has been a mess the entire time we've lived here (9 years) thanks to my two big dogs playing and doing their business on it. Will never be perfect, I'd settle for not embarrassing.
My wife has been doing the spare bedroom, it's freshly painted, new painting, new wood structure thing she's making from leftover hardwood floor, new hanging bookshelf etc...
We have her sister from England and her family staying with us in three weeks and then her brother from England and his wife and another couple staying with us in July but basically we do a project a year anyway.
Year 1 - Buy House
Year 2 - Finish Basement - builder did stairs and one bed/bath and hall, we did the main 20 x 20 ish living room area
Year 3 - Interlock brick to expand front driveway
Year 4 - Expand back deck (came with an 8x10 builders deck and no stairs)
Year 5 - Expand back patio (lower level)
Year 6 - Fireplace in lower level
Year 7 - Hot Tub - probably the one that was most impulse and adds no value but we use it a lot
Year 8 - Kitchen projects - backsplash, chalkboard wall, all new light fixtures upstairs
I'm probably forgetting some but I
our house now, it's basically exactly how I want it. And now that it's almost ten years old, I'm sure everything will start breaking.
Fat Nick
Footballguy
x2.
We're on a similar time-line...
- Year 1 - buy house
- Year 2 - Cosmetic upgrades (kitchen backsplash, swap out all switches and do home automation, new door handles/hinges, light fixtures, fans)
- Year 3 - Re-do guest bath
- Year 4 - Re-do Master bath
- Year 5 - Re-build/expand deck
- Year 6 - Tons of landscaping changes
- Year 7 - Finish basement
- Year 8 - 2nd kid turns 1, now mobile, time for projects was limited, so didn't do anything major.
- Year 9 - (this year) Need to refinish garage floor, and build a lean-to on the shed to cover my expanding collection of crap. Also need to figure out what to do about the driveway (want to re-pave/expand it)
