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Footballguy
Have you checked his browser for "wood pr0n".


Have you checked his browser for "wood pr0n".
I haven't done one single thing to it... nothing. Everything on it, in it or attached to it, is original.You are living on borrowed time my friend. Unless you are draining down this tank periodically (as per manufacturer's requirements) and are swapping out the anodes (don't ask no one does it), you will not get much more life on a tank past its warranty period.This thread reminded me that I REALLY need to get mine replaced. It's not big enough and it's OLD. We built our house in 1996 and it was just the wife and I...
Fast forward 17 years and we have four daughters and the same water heater. Yes, the same 17 year old electric 40 gallon model we had installed in 1996.
It's like a ticking time bomb...![]()
If you done no maintenance on it so far I wouldn't start, the sediment is probably keeping the bottom from leaking. You should really consider changing this unless you have pristine water or an exceptional installation/heater.I haven't done one single thing to it... nothing. Everything on it, in it or attached to it, is original.You are living on borrowed time my friend. Unless you are draining down this tank periodically (as per manufacturer's requirements) and are swapping out the anodes (don't ask no one does it), you will not get much more life on a tank past its warranty period.This thread reminded me that I REALLY need to get mine replaced. It's not big enough and it's OLD. We built our house in 1996 and it was just the wife and I...
Fast forward 17 years and we have four daughters and the same water heater. Yes, the same 17 year old electric 40 gallon model we had installed in 1996.
It's like a ticking time bomb...![]()
GasGas or Electric?
Tankless is an option you might want to consider.GasGas or Electric?
Just a guess, but maybe your anode rod was cracked when it was installed. When the water fills your tank, it could be pushing the rod against the side of the tank to make that sound.'GroveDiesel said:Maybe someone can help me out on this:Got mine replaced about 6 months ago after the side of my old one rusted out. The new one makes a funky noise when it's filling back up. It is a loud metallic sound that sounds to me like the walls of it are flexing. Almost like how a soda bottle's sides will pop out and make a loud popping sound.Is that at all normal or is it an indication that there is some problem? I have a one year warranty on the installation and whatever there is on the tank itself. It's done it ever since it was installed.
in missouri if you buy it installed there is no sales tax and since i bought a pretty nice water heater the installation costs amounted to about $50 and that got rid of my old unit and meant no hassle for me.I"m all for DIY but my time was worth more than it cost me to get it put in.Why anyone would actually pay another person to swap out a hot water heater is beyond me... short of a very complex attic installation. They are literally plug and play...even the gas ones. Mine ruptured last weekend (in the garage). Called a buddy to help me and he came by the house. From the time we loaded the new water heater out of the back of his truck into the garage, to the time I was filling the tank and lighting the pilot...under 3 hours and that included removing the old one, cutting off the old copper pipes on the top, and fixing new compression fittings with flexible hosing, and installing the new unit. Hell, we even had to run back to Lowes a second time due to a bad compression fitting in the install kit. My total cost was under $400 including 40gal Gas Whirlpool tank, install kit, and tax. Remove the compression fitting issues and I could probably drop one in within 90 minutes.
I would hugely advise AGAINST the average person doing it themselves if it is gas. Way too easy to screw that up and gas isn't something you want to mess up. My guess is >50% of guys don't even have the tools to do it.Gotcha! I called lowes just for kicks to get a quote for installation and they wanted $700... Absolutely absurd. I would HUGELY advise against anyone paying that much money (or even a quarter of that) for a normal install/swap.
that's with the water heater i thinkGotcha! I called lowes just for kicks to get a quote for installation and they wanted $700... Absolutely absurd. I would HUGELY advise against anyone paying that much money (or even a quarter of that) for a normal install/swap.
No special tools are required if its a standard flex hose. Had to buy a new fitting because the jackasses locked in the old one. Simple bubble test to check for leaks. If we're talking about a guy who can't change a doorknob then yeah.. But with contemporary fittings (compression fittings, flexible hoses, etc...) it's pretty damn simple for the average homeowner.I would hugely advise AGAINST the average person doing it themselves if it is gas. Way too easy to screw that up and gas isn't something you want to mess up. My guess is >50% of guys don't even have the tools to do it.Gotcha! I called lowes just for kicks to get a quote for installation and they wanted $700... Absolutely absurd. I would HUGELY advise against anyone paying that much money (or even a quarter of that) for a normal install/swap.
That's what I thought.... Sadly nothat's with the water heater i thinkGotcha! I called lowes just for kicks to get a quote for installation and they wanted $700... Absolutely absurd. I would HUGELY advise against anyone paying that much money (or even a quarter of that) for a normal install/swap.
Your water heater manual should tell you the water temp setting that it's trying to heat the water to. Measure the temp of the hot water coming out of a faucet. If that temp is above your setting, the water heater is super-heating the water. The temp of the water coming out of the pressure release valve is also a good indication. Near boiling water coming out of the pressure release valve is very bad. If the water heater is super-heating, it's likely due to incorrect temperature reading.Sometimes the temperature sensor just fails, and sometimes it becomes buried in salt or other sediment collected in the bottom of the tank, resulting in an inaccurate reading and overheating. These sediments should be flushed at least yearly, especially if you have a water softener. Lots of salt inside a metal tank is a recipe for corrosion and premature failure of the tank. Tanks have a sacrificial anode that should corrode first, but often these aren't replaced and the tank fails even more quickly. If you haven't flushed the tank, there's a drain valve on the tank bottom, usually takes a screwdriver to open. Get the temp down if it's super hot (run hot water for a while), then connect up a hose and run to the drain. Open the drain valve. You may have to open and shut the valve many times to keep it clear and unclogged. Keep the water supply valve going into the tank open, so you have positive pressure for flushing. Flushing a very old tank that hasn't been maintained has been rumored to result in a leak, as the old sediment has formed a seal.If you have boiling water coming out of your pressure release valve, you need to get it fixed asap. If you don't just turn the heater off and get it repaired (best idea), at the very least I'd lower the temperature to the lowest possible setting.Anyone know much about water heaters?Mine is leaking from the pressure valve.I replaced the valve with a new valve, but it's still leaking!
thanks for this, would you expect this from a 15 month old water heater?Your water heater manual should tell you the water temp setting that it's trying to heat the water to. Measure the temp of the hot water coming out of a faucet. If that temp is above your setting, the water heater is super-heating the water. The temp of the water coming out of the pressure release valve is also a good indication. Near boiling water coming out of the pressure release valve is very bad. If the water heater is super-heating, it's likely due to incorrect temperature reading.Sometimes the temperature sensor just fails, and sometimes it becomes buried in salt or other sediment collected in the bottom of the tank, resulting in an inaccurate reading and overheating. These sediments should be flushed at least yearly, especially if you have a water softener. Lots of salt inside a metal tank is a recipe for corrosion and premature failure of the tank. Tanks have a sacrificial anode that should corrode first, but often these aren't replaced and the tank fails even more quickly. If you haven't flushed the tank, there's a drain valve on the tank bottom, usually takes a screwdriver to open. Get the temp down if it's super hot (run hot water for a while), then connect up a hose and run to the drain. Open the drain valve. You may have to open and shut the valve many times to keep it clear and unclogged. Keep the water supply valve going into the tank open, so you have positive pressure for flushing. Flushing a very old tank that hasn't been maintained has been rumored to result in a leak, as the old sediment has formed a seal.If you have boiling water coming out of your pressure release valve, you need to get it fixed asap. If you don't just turn the heater off and get it repaired (best idea), at the very least I'd lower the temperature to the lowest possible setting.Anyone know much about water heaters?Mine is leaking from the pressure valve.I replaced the valve with a new valve, but it's still leaking!
Care to expand on that?I just moved into a house with one of these tank-free never ending hot water deals. It's annoying as ####.
No problem. I just had a warranty repair on my 18M old heater for overpressure water release like you are describing. This problem was said to be very unusual. I was lucky that I didn't have a lot of water damage in the basement. My plumber guy swapped both the valve and the temperature regulator, and all is well again. He thought it was almost certainly the regulator, but the valve is like $15 so he changed it out to be sure. Sounds like your regulator is likely bad like mine. I'd start with the flush and see if that helps, if you haven't already done so. My plumber said he'd be able to get the water heater company to pay for a new regulator, although I believe their stated parts warranty is only 12M. I think he said a new regulator would run ~$200.thanks for this, would you expect this from a 15 month old water heater?
Its installed in a drip pan and piped to a drain. If it springs a leak its drained out just like a tub or shower. Pretty simple really.My god that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. What sort of safety things are put up there to prevent a failure from destroying your ceilings?Many homes without basements will have this in the attic.I've never heard of this. Why the attic?Went Tankless 4 yrs ago and oh so glad I did!
Never have to worry about it.
Cost of having a Hot Water Heater replaced - in my attic - $1200
Tankless system - $2400
Gas bill went from $80 to $45 per month.
No issue with tank size here!
I put in a tankless last year.Its a Navien condensing heater 200k btus 98%. Works great and saves fuel costs like crazy. If you live in a colder climate, to keep your operating cost down and increase efficiency leave in your old water tank and use it as a pre-heat appliance. This will increase your GPM by lowering the temperature rise through the tankless heater.Tankless is an option you might want to consider.GasGas or Electric?
Not in the field. We went gas tankless a couple years ago from a gas tank version which needed replacing. Only did it as we had some pretty nice energy rebates available at the time. Works fine for us, but I wouldnt do it again if the rebates were not available. Only downside is you do have to wait a bit for hot water. Furthest faucet in 2nd floor bathroom is probably a 40-50 second wait.I'm gonna need a new one soon. Any stories from you guys in the field regarding tankless? Looking form some specifics here. Seems like everyone thinks about going this route and few actually do. It will be gas, by the way.
Decent energy savings? Is the delay the only issue you dislike?Not in the field. We went gas tankless a couple years ago from a gas tank version which needed replacing. Only did it as we had some pretty nice energy rebates available at the time. Works fine for us, but I wouldnt do it again if the rebates were not available. Only downside is you do have to wait a bit for hot water. Furthest faucet in 2nd floor bathroom is probably a 40-50 second wait.I'm gonna need a new one soon. Any stories from you guys in the field regarding tankless? Looking form some specifics here. Seems like everyone thinks about going this route and few actually do. It will be gas, by the way.
I'm not positive the hot water rig is the source of the issue, but occasionally there is an on and off hum that will start happening. Started again last night and was still going this morning. Like five seconds of humming followed by three taps, then silence for 30 second or so. Repeat. I've checked all the toilets and faucets to see if anything is running and nothing was. It's Edgar Allen Poe-style maddening.Care to expand on that?I just moved into a house with one of these tank-free never ending hot water deals. It's annoying as ####.
Ours is in the attic as well. Drain attached to the pan leads to the outside of the house. The builder swears if the leak is minimal we'll have plenty of time to get a new heater before any problems arise.I've never heard of this. Why the attic?Went Tankless 4 yrs ago and oh so glad I did!
Never have to worry about it.
Cost of having a Hot Water Heater replaced - in my attic - $1200
Tankless system - $2400
Gas bill went from $80 to $45 per month.
No issue with tank size here!
Delay is only issue I dislike. Its compact, off the floor so gives us a bit more space in a small utility room. Energy savings, Im sure are there. I havent looked at it too closely though. I would assume not enough of a savings to make up the cost difference if buying it a full price, depending on life expectancy. We came from a gas water tank, so not like it was terrible to begin with.As mentioned I would do it again with rebates getting me close to a tank price. Without the rebates I wouldnt.Decent energy savings? Is the delay the only issue you dislike?Not in the field. We went gas tankless a couple years ago from a gas tank version which needed replacing. Only did it as we had some pretty nice energy rebates available at the time. Works fine for us, but I wouldnt do it again if the rebates were not available. Only downside is you do have to wait a bit for hot water. Furthest faucet in 2nd floor bathroom is probably a 40-50 second wait.I'm gonna need a new one soon. Any stories from you guys in the field regarding tankless? Looking form some specifics here. Seems like everyone thinks about going this route and few actually do. It will be gas, by the way.
What brand of tankless did you get?Went Tankless 4 yrs ago and oh so glad I did! Never have to worry about it. Cost of having a Hot Water Heater replaced - in my attic - $1200Tankless system - $2400Gas bill went from $80 to $45 per month.No issue with tank size here!
Cheapest man in the universe.
Ive had one for a couple years and never done any maintenance.Tank less heaters need to have their heating coils cleaned on a regular schedule. The time period depends on how hard and or dirty your water is . Running "clean" water through them is advisable.
But it's at a record high! And I've uploaded everything into Mint.com for a beautiful print out with pie charts and everything.Cheapest man in the universe.
Any dentist, please don't post an Excel spreadsheet of your current net worth. We're okay on this end.
it would be a good idea to have a professional look at it once. Maybe they will show you how to clean the unit. If the unit was piped correctly there should be connections to shut water off to the unit and then connect a pump with the cleaning solution. The cleaning solution usually is vinegar mixed with water. Check your owners manual. If not piped correctly might be worth it to have it done. Build up on the inside of the heat exchanger blows the efficiency and gpm capacity of the unit.Ive had one for a couple years and never done any maintenance.Tank less heaters need to have their heating coils cleaned on a regular schedule. The time period depends on how hard and or dirty your water is . Running "clean" water through them is advisable.Is this something I can do or need the pro in? I do live in a hard water area, but FWIW the water going to the heater runs through the softener first.