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Mad Cow's Italy trip discussion thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mad Cow
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gianmarco
Footballguy
If you've never been, the cathedral is a must. Lots of places and museums around it. And maybe take in an opera at La Scala.
jamny
Footballguy
Look up Via Fiori Chiari. It's a whole restaurant row with a ton of places. Just walk up and down and pick out a spot. Some are a bit more touristy than others.
Chemical X
Footballguy
I would try to book a viewing of the last supper. I agree with the Opera, depends on age of daughter.
Bobcat10
Footballguy
We didn't spend alot of time in Milan since we were just there basically for a concert, but Leo's Last Supper was pretty cool to see. That building took some damage during WWII and that is a cool story to hear/see. Went to the Duomo also (which was part of the concert poster I bought) and it was pretty amazing/unique (Gothic) compared to the others we saw during the trip.
El Floppo
Footballguy
Duomo, Last Supper, the Galleria (right on the piazza del duomo)... all must sees. La Scala for sure, plus their restaurant used to be one of the best in the city- had a chateaubriand there that was like eating velvet- an all-time meal for me.
I lived there for a few months long, long ago... great city. people couldn't be nicer, and more cosmopolitan and "real" feeling than places like Florence that are so very tourist-driven (and still amazing- not trying to disparage Florence in any way). there was a deep discount high-end fashion outlet called Salvagente that the wife and kids might like... wait- it's chet- never mind, just hit the regular boutiques.
I lived there for a few months long, long ago... great city. people couldn't be nicer, and more cosmopolitan and "real" feeling than places like Florence that are so very tourist-driven (and still amazing- not trying to disparage Florence in any way). there was a deep discount high-end fashion outlet called Salvagente that the wife and kids might like... wait- it's chet- never mind, just hit the regular boutiques.
chet
Footballguy
My wife did make a reservation to the painting but we will be with a Polish tour guide--all the English spots were taken.
Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions!
Phil Elliott
Footballguy
We did 3 weeks of Italy end of April/start of May and planned it with a local travel agent that was from Italy. Venice,Florence, Chianti, Rome, Amalfi/Capri. 3-4 days in each location.
Venice - Direct flight from Philadelphia (AA) into Venice. Stayed by St. Mark's square. Consider a water bus pass or you can just walk around. Lot of people/tours! half day trip to Murano (glass blowing) was fun but wouldn't do it if you are in Venice just for the day. Doges Palace tour was very good. Venice was not as bad as people told us (summer might be different). Fish market by Rialto bridge was quite a sight. Took train to Florence.
Florence - You can stay in Florence and do day trips to Pisa, Venice, Tuscany. Best view is from top (about 400 steps) of Duomo (Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiori). Another good vantage point is Michelangelo Square across the river. We walked there and used Uber to go back into town. Get a museum pass Firenze Card (about 70 euro, good for 72 hours from first use, skip the lines!). Most of the museums are in the same general area and cost about 15 Euro each without the Firenze Card. Less visited museum but an interesting hour is DaVinci's museum a few blocks from the Duomo. Every block has espresso/coffee, gelato, pizzaria/restaurant and wine bars. An excellent restaurant is a couple blocks South of the Duomo called Coquinarius. Went there a couple times. Another good restaurant is directly across the river from the Uffizi museum called Signorvino (also wine store). Ponte Vecchio bridge is interesting but just jewelry tourist trap - just keep walking. Basilica di Santa Croce a must stop.
Chianti - Rented a car and drove into Chianti and stayed at small castle/winery in Gaioli in Chianti in the countryside/mountains. Very relaxed time. Driving was easy. Did day trips in Tuscany area including Sienna. Took train from Uffizi to Rome.
Rome - Lots to see, driving is nuts-leave it to the taxi's or walk. We walked a lot. We did private tour of Coliseum/Forum and Vatican. Trevi Fountain, Pantheon,Piazza Navona common spots. Across the river is an area called Trastevere with some excellent restaurants about a block or two from the river. Again, nearly every block has espresso/coffee, gelato, pizzaria/restaurant and wine bars. Least favorite city of the trip but Coliseum and Vatican worth it.
Amalfi Coast/Capri - Took train to Salerno and had driver bring us to hotel in Praiano. Nice view of the sea and Positano and only about 5 km from Positano. Again, very relaxing and enjoyable time. City of Amalfi was just ok. Most of the action was in Positano. Amalfi coast is all about lemons (lemon trees all over and produce lemons year round), seafood, ceramics and limoncello. Took a ferry to Capri for the day including Blue Grotto (not too crowded), chairlift, and a private boat tour around the island. Amalfi/Capri and Chianti were our favorite spots. One of the best restaurants ever is Vivaro, Via Gennaro Capriglione, 156, Praiano SA, Italy. Its located right on the main road thru Amalfi coast in Praiano near Casa Angelina hotel. Small (about 12 tables). Owner/chef asks you red or white and meat or seafood. He picks the wine and then makes dinner. We had great red wine, spaghetti with prawns/clams/mussels, four different fish (two for each of us) and dessert. Total bill was 72 euro. Everything was fresh. The Aperol Spritz is very popular in Italy. A little bitter for my tastes so we were drinking limoncello Spritz
.
Naples - Just saw Naples as we drove in to catch our flight back home. But what we saw, Naples does not look like there is any reason to visit.
Everyone was very nice. Food was excellent everywhere. Great breakfasts. We ate a lot of prosciutto-cantelope for lunch in all cities. Planning a trip with our travel agent to Southern Italy next year.
Venice - Direct flight from Philadelphia (AA) into Venice. Stayed by St. Mark's square. Consider a water bus pass or you can just walk around. Lot of people/tours! half day trip to Murano (glass blowing) was fun but wouldn't do it if you are in Venice just for the day. Doges Palace tour was very good. Venice was not as bad as people told us (summer might be different). Fish market by Rialto bridge was quite a sight. Took train to Florence.
Florence - You can stay in Florence and do day trips to Pisa, Venice, Tuscany. Best view is from top (about 400 steps) of Duomo (Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiori). Another good vantage point is Michelangelo Square across the river. We walked there and used Uber to go back into town. Get a museum pass Firenze Card (about 70 euro, good for 72 hours from first use, skip the lines!). Most of the museums are in the same general area and cost about 15 Euro each without the Firenze Card. Less visited museum but an interesting hour is DaVinci's museum a few blocks from the Duomo. Every block has espresso/coffee, gelato, pizzaria/restaurant and wine bars. An excellent restaurant is a couple blocks South of the Duomo called Coquinarius. Went there a couple times. Another good restaurant is directly across the river from the Uffizi museum called Signorvino (also wine store). Ponte Vecchio bridge is interesting but just jewelry tourist trap - just keep walking. Basilica di Santa Croce a must stop.
Chianti - Rented a car and drove into Chianti and stayed at small castle/winery in Gaioli in Chianti in the countryside/mountains. Very relaxed time. Driving was easy. Did day trips in Tuscany area including Sienna. Took train from Uffizi to Rome.
Rome - Lots to see, driving is nuts-leave it to the taxi's or walk. We walked a lot. We did private tour of Coliseum/Forum and Vatican. Trevi Fountain, Pantheon,Piazza Navona common spots. Across the river is an area called Trastevere with some excellent restaurants about a block or two from the river. Again, nearly every block has espresso/coffee, gelato, pizzaria/restaurant and wine bars. Least favorite city of the trip but Coliseum and Vatican worth it.
Amalfi Coast/Capri - Took train to Salerno and had driver bring us to hotel in Praiano. Nice view of the sea and Positano and only about 5 km from Positano. Again, very relaxing and enjoyable time. City of Amalfi was just ok. Most of the action was in Positano. Amalfi coast is all about lemons (lemon trees all over and produce lemons year round), seafood, ceramics and limoncello. Took a ferry to Capri for the day including Blue Grotto (not too crowded), chairlift, and a private boat tour around the island. Amalfi/Capri and Chianti were our favorite spots. One of the best restaurants ever is Vivaro, Via Gennaro Capriglione, 156, Praiano SA, Italy. Its located right on the main road thru Amalfi coast in Praiano near Casa Angelina hotel. Small (about 12 tables). Owner/chef asks you red or white and meat or seafood. He picks the wine and then makes dinner. We had great red wine, spaghetti with prawns/clams/mussels, four different fish (two for each of us) and dessert. Total bill was 72 euro. Everything was fresh. The Aperol Spritz is very popular in Italy. A little bitter for my tastes so we were drinking limoncello Spritz
.Naples - Just saw Naples as we drove in to catch our flight back home. But what we saw, Naples does not look like there is any reason to visit.
Everyone was very nice. Food was excellent everywhere. Great breakfasts. We ate a lot of prosciutto-cantelope for lunch in all cities. Planning a trip with our travel agent to Southern Italy next year.
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Bobcat10
Footballguy
jamny
Footballguy
ex-ghost
Footballguy
Chemical X
Footballguy
so, the quake appears to have hit 90 km from me, roughly 55 miles. luckily for us, it appears no damage in my area or west from the epicenter. sadly, amatrice (best known for inventing amatrciana) appears to have been wiped out. there have been 2 quakes over 5, but a bunch of 4 range aftershocks in the Norcia area, effecting Assisi, Foligno, possibly Perugia.
seems like the damage is east of the mountains, towards the Adriatic. the roads, properties and infrastructure are not equipped to handle an earthquake of this size. I am waiting to hear from DD and other friends in the area. figure the death toll increases from 73 once emergency services actually gain access to locations.
seems like the damage is east of the mountains, towards the Adriatic. the roads, properties and infrastructure are not equipped to handle an earthquake of this size. I am waiting to hear from DD and other friends in the area. figure the death toll increases from 73 once emergency services actually gain access to locations.
Phil Elliott
Footballguy
When on Amalfi coast, take a day tour to Capri (including blue grotto and chair lift to top of island) Also, we bought a few ceramic items in Positano and Praiano and they shipped them home with no problems.
Rick James
Footballguy
IMO Lucca for 3 nights is a waste, if this is your first trip to Italy. It's a 1.5 hour train ride from Florence. You could spend an extra day in Florence and use that to take the train to Lucca. I think you'll be bored if you spend 3 days there, but more importantly I think you will regret not having more time in Rome. You're going to want to do all of the big things, you'll spend the entire 3 days running around and you won't appreciate the city for what it is. just IMO. My wife and I spend 6 nights in Rome and could have stayed another week.
jamny
Footballguy
I agree, but I'm thinking there must be a reason to pick Lucca for such an extended stay. Family maybe?
I'd make it a couple of days in Cinque Terra and tack on another day in Rome. I think he's vastly underestimating how much there is to do and see in Rome.
EYLive
Footballguy
I'll be in Rome for 3 full days in mid October. My wife and I ordered the 3-day Omni pass for VIP entry to the major tourist spots and free bus rides.
Our hotel is about a 1.5 miles north of the Vatican. We'll try to see: Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel, The Coliseum, Roman Forum & Palatine Hill, Capitolini Museums, Borghese Gallery and National Museum of Castel Sant'Angelo
Do you guys have recommendations for other must-see's and restaurants?
Our hotel is about a 1.5 miles north of the Vatican. We'll try to see: Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel, The Coliseum, Roman Forum & Palatine Hill, Capitolini Museums, Borghese Gallery and National Museum of Castel Sant'Angelo
Do you guys have recommendations for other must-see's and restaurants?
Don Quixote
Footballguy
Pantheon is a must too. I'd make sure to walk around and see things like the Trevi Fountain and the piazzas too.
jamny
Footballguy
Yeah, Trevi Fountain to Pantheon and then stop for a drink at the Piazza Navona (my favorite piazza). And if you're heading towards the Spanish Steps, head a little north to Piazza del Popolo. From there head up the steps (for a great view of the city) into Villa Borghese park and come out at Via Vittorio Veneto and walk down along the high end hotel and restaurant area. The Borghese Gallery is also in the park and is one place I haven't gotten to yet in 4 trips to Rome.
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EYLive
Footballguy
Good stuff. Looks like I'll be walking a ton, which is good cuz I plan on chowing down on lots of pasta.
Phil Elliott
Footballguy
We walked 17 miles one day in Rome: Hotel 47 to Coliseum to Forum to Pantheon to Trevi Fountain to Spanish Steps (closed for renovation) etc.
agree Pantheon is a must. Research margherita pizza and Pantheon.
EYLive
Footballguy
OMG, almost forgot about pizza, and probably gelato too.
I'm seeing lots a cobblestone on streetview, how were your feet after 17 miles?
Phil Elliott
Footballguy
I made a comment to my wife about how could women wear heels on the cobblestone. We wore tennis shoes. The legs were a little sore that night. Yes, every block had gelato, pasta, small restaurants and little wine bars.
Phil Elliott
Footballguy
Also check out the Trastevere area right across the river. Excellent restaurants in more of a neighborhood setting.
ex-ghost
Footballguy
Another question regarding the Amalfi Coast.
We are looking at staying on the coast for 6 days. Criteria for picking the best place to stay:
1. Near the water to swim
2. Near a town that we can walk to within 5 minutes
3. Walkable grocery stores, will be cooking in apartment
4. Not a hotel, would like a kitchen and a view of the water
5. Near transportation to take us to Capri and other coast towns for the day
6. Preferably not insanely touristy
With these in mind, it seems Atrani and Praiano fit the bill. Any others? Advice appreciated - this will be the longest place we will stay in Italy and it is our last stop before heading home.
We are looking at staying on the coast for 6 days. Criteria for picking the best place to stay:
1. Near the water to swim
2. Near a town that we can walk to within 5 minutes
3. Walkable grocery stores, will be cooking in apartment
4. Not a hotel, would like a kitchen and a view of the water
5. Near transportation to take us to Capri and other coast towns for the day
6. Preferably not insanely touristy
With these in mind, it seems Atrani and Praiano fit the bill. Any others? Advice appreciated - this will be the longest place we will stay in Italy and it is our last stop before heading home.
Phil Elliott
Footballguy
The "beaches" are rocky-no sand. We stayed at Casa Angelina in Praiano, but had van to Positano every 30 min. Only about 4 miles. Had beautiful view of Positano but it was a hotel. They had private beach at hotel. We caught ferry to Capri from Positano, which was 45 min ride. Not sure about markets to buy food.
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kutta
Footballguy
We stayed in Pasitano for three nights in a hotel right on the water. It was absolutely amazing. The town is so much fun to walk because it is basically a cliff that you walk up with shops, restaurants, and houses along the way. Phil Elliott is correct in that the beaches are rocky and actually a little strange. We tried to hang on the beach one day but it is really small and really rocky.
Pasitano was one of our favorite spots on our European vacation - we'll be back.
Pasitano was one of our favorite spots on our European vacation - we'll be back.
Phil Elliott
Footballguy
Ravello is worth a half-day trip. 1000 feet above the sea. Grab lunch or dinner at sunset. Check out Villa Cimbrone garden. You are at the edge of the cliff and looking straight down 1,000 feet.
Chemical X
Footballguy
that is very aggressive for 3 full days. north of the Vatican is the prati district. I would recommend Bonci Pizzarium, Via della Meloria, 43, Roma, Italy. Its small and hectic, but they have many exotic combos and cut the pizza with scissors and charge by weight. places to eat outside and about 1-2 blocks away from the cipro metro stop.
for dinner, me and my wife came across a place that was crazy fun and good. la fraschetta di castel sant'angelo Via del Banco di Santo Spirito, 20, Roma, Italy. we went 2x, back to back and it was many levels of awesome and affordable. casual, yet great food. they take reservations and I recommend you make them. the female waitstaff were young, spoke English and easy on the eyes. they have a mixed appetizer for around 12 euros that every one had. it included, porchetta, cold cuts, cheese, bread, olives. I've been to a lot of places in rome, but this was a place I felt most comfortable.
the Spanish steps have been closed for renovation, do some research. Trevi fountain renovation is complete. I recommend a guide, helps you navigate and jump the line.
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Rick James
Footballguy
My one recommendation re: sites is this-- if you're not feeling it, bounce. There's no need to linger at a place for 2-3 hours just because it's "the thing to do". You're only there for three days, so enjoy the time you have.
Food:
1) Pizza-- If you want to try a bunch of different pizza in your 3 days, skip the whole pizzas and order by the pound (kg). We probably tried 15 different spots in our week in Rome.
2) Most pizza places also sell something called "suppli"-- it is a cousin to arancini. Fried rice ball w/ cheese in the middle. Everyone has their own spin on them, and they're like 1 euro.
3) Gelato is cheap and everywhere-- there are a lot of crappy spots. Don't fall for the bright, neon colored gelato that is piled 3 feet high. These are cheap, industrialized versions of gelato. True handmade gelato is very dense (so it would not naturally rise above a pan) and kinda dull in color. It should look like the flavor it is-- ie banana should be a whiteish/brown, not neon yellow.
4) "Glass Hostaria" is a very nice (expensive) meal in Trastevere, just across the river from the heart of Rome. It is an easy walk from, say, the Pantheon. This place was awarded a Michelin star. Very, very good. I think our tab was $250.
ugh, I'm jealous. I could live in Rome.
Rick James
Footballguy
Also if you want a thrill, rent a Vespa for a day and get lost in the city. Truly one of the more exhilarating things I've ever done.
Chemical X
Footballguy
not a fan of the lucca stop, not enough in the area to sustain my interest. also, I am no amalfi expert, but 6 nights seems like too many. I would rather add a night in rome and maybe stop between rome and Florence in the orvieto area. between Florence and Rome is Siena, Montepulciano, Pienza, Orvieto, Montalcino, Cortona. also, you will be in the area for the july 2 palio in siena and jazz fest in Perugia, I think july 5-14. maybe use your time to hit siena, Perugia and head to assisi.
EYLive
Footballguy
Very nice. Thanks for the recommendations. Our hotel is in the south edge of Prati
I watched Bourdain's Rome Layover episode and he ate at Bonci also, so I'll definitely go there.
Various sites say the Spanish steps renovations are delayed but wikipedia says they'll be finished tomorrow 9/21. I hope that's true.
Chemical X
Footballguy
not sure if you've been there before, but have a plan. if you don't have a plan and stick to it, you'll lose time you can't back. an area we love is trastevere. santa maria sopra Minerva is wonderful and has a nice square with obelisk to relax by. I have heard much buzz about da enzo al 29 there. also, the jewish ghetto is a nice walk, nice ruins and the synagogue is wild, built in church style. nice restaurants there, including il giardino romano. the fried artichokes are great. tram 8 runs thru trastevere from plaza argentina. you don't have much time, but around 2.15h is a train from rome to Perugia.................eurochocolate festival is in Perugia 10/14-23. it is crazy fun.Very nice. Thanks for the recommendations. Our hotel is in the south edge of Prati
I watched Bourdain's Rome Layover episode and he ate at Bonci also, so I'll definitely go there.
Various sites say the Spanish steps renovations are delayed but wikipedia says they'll be finished tomorrow 9/21. I hope that's true.
Rick James
Footballguy
Chemical X knows his stuff. He put me in contact with a winery in montepulciano ("Avignonesi") and to this day it's something my wife and I talk about all the time.
Chemical X
Footballguy
I went back in may for the cooking class and lunch. I bought and shipped 12 bottles, including 3 bottles of the 50/50. hatchy matchy.
they are 5-10 minutes from my house.
Rick James
Footballguy
RUSF18
Footballguy
You can't go wrong with any of the real gelato (not the neon stuff, as was mentioned above). Giolitti was our favorite though, we went 3x in 3.5 days (including once at about 1am after dinner, we had the run of the place...workers were awesome). That might just be the touristy answer but it was incredible.
Rick James
Footballguy
EYLive
Footballguy
I've had these arancini fried rice balls, but I heard that some places in Italy make suppli with a runny egg yolk in the middle. I need these in my life immediately.
Chemical X
Footballguy
think I got 3 of those as well.....are they the $125 bottles? usually with a lunch, when wine is included, you get the B stuff. afterwards, we wanted to buy the bottles and couldn't believe the prices. this might be because they are full organic now.
RUSF18
Footballguy
Yeah enormous line during the day (still worth it) but like I said, empty late night if anyone is looking for that as a tip. We were sitting outside with two of the workers shooting the #### in broken english/Italian. I remember it going pretty well but there was also a couple bottles of wine before...
Oh and obviously add the fresh whipped cream, applied with a spackling tool.
Chemical X
Footballguy
I have a place for you......Spaghetteria L'Archetto (near trevi fountain).
https://www.zomato.com/roma/spaghetteria-pizzeria-l-archetto-fontana-di-trevi-roma/menu#tabtop
they have a web site, but I can't access at work. olive ascolane are crazy good. little fried olives stuffed with meat. this is not hoity toity, but its hidden, large and authentic. service can be gruff and credit card machines miraculously fail. if you go, bring cash. I recommend for lunch or dinner and they have orario continuato (continuous hours).
Mad Cow
Welshers and Dawdlers Beware!
Man, I need to get back. We walked miles each day but loved it. Gelato twice a day. I should look up some of our Rome restaurants since it seems like that is wanted. For Florence, not sure how far back I put it, but the Trattoria Ponte Vecchio just off the bridge was amazing. My wife's favorite place the whole trip.
waiver wire
Footballguy
im headed to Italy for 40 days next april , ill have to read this thread for info
