Mad Cow's Italy trip discussion thread (2 Viewers)

[jamny]

We had one of the best dinners on our trip at Casa Mele.  Not your traditional Italian, but the tasting menu was out of this world, very unique food and atmosphere if you are looking for something different.

Yeah, I saw that one. It does look nice but I'm not sure how many formal meals we'll be looking for but I'll definitely keep it in mind...thx!

 

[Chemical X]

Yeah, I saw that one. It does look nice but I'm not sure how many formal meals we'll be looking for but I'll definitely keep it in mind...thx!

the weather has been brutal, check before packing.  it’s a bit away, but it’s a year abnormality.  like november.

 

[jamny]

the weather has been brutal, check before packing.  it’s a bit away, but it’s a year abnormality.  like november.

Oh, I've been checking! lol

It has been a concern since last year had a lot of rain. Right now, it looks like a nice stretch after this weekend so I hope it's the start of a good trend.

 

[Phil Elliott]

We're about 3 weeks from our trip to Positano. I remember a bunch of great reviews for La Tagliata, but see a few on tripadvisor that say the food is average and you are a bit rushed through the meal. Just want to reaffirm that it is a must visit.

Vivaro Wine Bar - if you have a chance to try, its a small restaurant in Praiano on the main road, about 4 miles from Positano. Great food, owner asks you fish or meat and red or white (wine)and you will not go home hungary and its very reasonable on price. Chef will spend some extra time with you if first time visit.

 

[Bob Sacamano]

told my wife our first visitors would be iStrangers that will likely kill us and assume our lives.  honestly, in that area, no would ever know.

:takesnotes:

 

[Bob Sacamano]

sadly, we are not going to offer on the property.  

we went back on monday and spent about 3-4 hours with our agent and our inspector (plumber, electrician).  too many things to discuss here, but at the end of the day, the house scares us in to thinking it’s just going to be money after money.  if we had to move, we’d buy this house, but since this offer is a want and not a need, we just can’t put ourselves in a position to jeopardize what we’ve worked hard for in the states.  

some issues;

the house was recently redone, with new wooden beams; however, the beams are still drying and shrinking and half the second floor has sunk, so all tile needs to be redone, cracks need to be fixed, etc.  the water is spring water which is pumped to the house, but the pump is on the adjacent property that the sellers also own.  what happens if they unplug our pump?  the properties haven’t yet been subdivided.  the house needed updating in all bathrooms, so were talking 5k per bathroom, 10-15k for the kitchen and add 10%.  we haven’t yet discussed fencing our outdoor cleanup.

the is truly sad, we invested 1 year of our time in finding 62 properties to look at.  we wanted to spend the money, but who knows how much the floor is and the extras will add up.  so, 280k that we can get for maybe 240k will be 350k.  

we needed a nice yard for our dog.  we basically said that we’ll lightly keep looking, but maybe stick to the original plan of letting our dog live out his life where we are, then when he goes, we go.  this will give us more leeway in buying or even renting in more metro areas and maybe just city hop 3 months at a time.  

we will likely put maybe a couple of $$ into our existing place to add outlets and buy a microwave.

Sorry to hear that, but glad you're in a position to be smart about it.  

 

[Chemical X]

Sorry to hear that, but glad you're in a position to be smart about it.  

appreciate the kind words.  sadly, we may have run our course with our current place.  this has been a tough 3 weeks and a bit eye opening to us, especially from a standpoint of living here full time.  we’ve had a great 9 years, but it seems it may be time to sell our place and reinvest elsewhere, a sharp change from why we came here.  there are many reasons for the 180 turn, but tonite may have been our final straw with how they live here.  went for chinese food and parked in camucia.  as we got out of car around 7.30p we saw 3 dogs tied to a bench, like they were abandoned.  broke our hearts and we had no idea what to do, what with almost everything closed there.  we sat for food and asked the owner in italian if she knew about the dogs.  she said no, but then the party of 3 sitting across from us stated that the dogs were theirs.  they proceeded to eat inside, leaving the dogs tied to the bench, barking.

 

[johnnycakes]

We had one of the best dinners on our trip at Casa Mele.  Not your traditional Italian, but the tasting menu was out of this world, very unique food and atmosphere if you are looking for something different.

My wife and I spent 15 days in Italy last October, one week of which was in Positano.  Probably the most memorable meal we had during the whole trip was at Ristorante Max in Positano.  Very nice place with very good food and a great selection of wines.  

 

[3 hour lunch]

Found a cute little hotel in Rome called Liberty Boutique and booked it but it’s kind of by the train station and there doesn’t appear to be much else around. We don’t mind cabbing to the few places we’re going to check out, but would people encourage a different part of the city? 

 

[jamny]

Found a cute little hotel in Rome called Liberty Boutique and booked it but it’s kind of by the train station and there doesn’t appear to be much else around. We don’t mind cabbing to the few places we’re going to check out, but would people encourage a different part of the city? 

I haven't been over in that area but it doesn't look too far away from Via Vittorio Veneto. Seems fine to me but we like to walk a lot. looks like a lot of hotels in the area.

 

[3 hour lunch]

I haven't been over in that area but it doesn't look too far away from Via Vittorio Veneto. Seems fine to me but we like to walk a lot. looks like a lot of hotels in the area.

Sounds good, thanks. I guess no matter where you stay you’re probably cabbing somewhere. Just a bit away from the main sights over there. We’re only there 2 nights anyway. 

 

[jamny]

Sounds good, thanks. I guess no matter where you stay you’re probably cabbing somewhere. Just a bit away from the main sights over there. We’re only there 2 nights anyway. 

We've never taken a cab within the city. We either walk or take the subway.

 

[3 hour lunch]

We've never taken a cab within the city. We either walk or take the subway.

Yeah I’ve heard a lot of people use that. Since we only have two trips to make (Vatican, Colliseum) we might just take the easy way out

 

[Drunken knight]

Sorry to hear chem.  I just popped onto this page... coincidentally, I was poking around properties around the northern lakes. What page did you start your process?  Even without inspections, many look like time investment renovations.

 

[JackReacher]

We've never taken a cab within the city. We either walk or take the subway.

Was recently in Rome for a week. For the non-walkable trips, I used the MyTaxi app. Was money. Highly recommend.

 

[Chemical X]

Sounds good, thanks. I guess no matter where you stay you’re probably cabbing somewhere. Just a bit away from the main sights over there. We’re only there 2 nights anyway. 

a billion hotels, but i stay at hotel ponte sisto.  close to trastevere and it’s a 5 floor hotel.  some hotels are 1 floor in rome and in the other floors, you never know what you’re gonna get.  make sure.

 

[Bob Sacamano]

Was recently in Rome for a week. For the non-walkable trips, I used the MyTaxi app. Was money. Highly recommend.

Got us a cheaper rate than Uber showed the one time we used it.  I was pleased with it.  

 

[Bluto Blutarsky]

We're about 3 weeks from our trip to Positano. I remember a bunch of great reviews for La Tagliata, but see a few on tripadvisor that say the food is average and you are a bit rushed through the meal. Just want to reaffirm that it is a must visit.

Was just scrolling through for info and saw this. I'll be in Ravello from June 21-26 for a wedding. 

A few questions for anyone who can help-

Is it worth renting a car for that area? Are most of the things to do/see within walking/taxi distance? We'll be staying at Hotel Graal.

From upthread, I liked the idea of packing light and buying a few things to wear once there. We're heading to Manchester on the 26th and don't want to take monstrous bags. Any other packing suggestions that help save space/bags? 

 Any restaurant recommendations for that area?  Any low key nightlife spots to check out? 

 

[jamny]

Was just scrolling through for info and saw this. I'll be in Ravello from June 21-26 for a wedding. 

Is it at the Belmond Hotel Caruso? That place looks incredible. If not, it's probably worth checking out while you're there.

 

[Chemical X]

i have a 1.5kg bistecca alla fiorentina on order for myself and the mrs. tonite.

 

[jamny]

Has anyone used a personal wifi hotspot, like this, while overseas?

Pros/Cons?

 

[DA RAIDERS]

Was just scrolling through for info and saw this. I'll be in Ravello from June 21-26 for a wedding. 

A few questions for anyone who can help-

Is it worth renting a car for that area? Are most of the things to do/see within walking/taxi distance? We'll be staying at Hotel Graal.

From upthread, I liked the idea of packing light and buying a few things to wear once there. We're heading to Manchester on the 26th and don't want to take monstrous bags. Any other packing suggestions that help save space/bags? 

 Any restaurant recommendations for that area?  Any low key nightlife spots to check out? 

you're in for a treat.  ravello was one of our favorites.  we stayed in amalfi and didn't rent a car.  we took the sita busses and the ferry when we wanted to go anywhere.  super easy.  personally, i wouldn't want to drive there.  the roads are gnarly and parking is worse.

 

[jamny]

Finally doing some serious research with the trip just a few weeks away. Man, gettin' really psyched now!

 

[jamny]

you're in for a treat.  ravello was one of our favorites.  we stayed in amalfi and didn't rent a car.  we took the sita busses and the ferry when we wanted to go anywhere.  super easy.  personally, i wouldn't want to drive there.  the roads are gnarly and parking is worse.

What time of year did you go? I'm reading how the bus up to Ravello can be packed. Thinking of taking a taxi up and walking down. Supposed to be an amazing walk down.

Did you need a reservation at Da Vincenzo? I'm hoping not to have to plan things too tight and be able to walk in.

 

[DA RAIDERS]

What time of year did you go? I'm reading how the bus up to Ravello can be packed. Thinking of taking a taxi up and walking down. Supposed to be an amazing walk down.

Did you need a reservation at Da Vincenzo? I'm hoping not to have to plan things too tight and be able to walk in.

we went at the height of summer.  won't do that again.  the busses were mostly full, but we never had any problems getting one.

we hiked the pathway of the gods, from bomerano to positano.  freaking awesome.  the stairs at the end, the zillions of stairs at the end, are no f'ing joke.   i imagine the hike down from ravello would be similar.  and it's a hike, not a leisurely walk.  

we walked in to da vincenzo, but we were early.  they take reservations online, i believe.

 

[jamny]

we went at the height of summer.  won't do that again.  the busses were mostly full, but we never had any problems getting one.

we hiked the pathway of the gods, from bomerano to positano.  freaking awesome.  the stairs at the end, the zillions of stairs at the end, are no f'ing joke.   i imagine the hike down from ravello would be similar.  and it's a hike, not a leisurely walk.  

we walked in to da vincenzo, but we were early.  they take reservations online, i believe.

I'm debating path of the gods but will probably split it between Ravello and going up to Montepertuso from Positano on another day.

Will look to try and hit up da Vincenzo for lunch. Good location for it...thx!

 

[Boulder Toads]

Just finished reading through this entire thread, whoa ... this is really some helpful stuff!

Wife and I had a great trip to Italy ~10 years ago, and are putting a plan together for May 2020 to return.  We are taking our 2 moms (age 70 & 65) who have never been, and are really a lot of fun together.  Our first trip was ~3 weeks and we went all over the place (Venice, Cinque Terra, Florence, Siena, Rome).  This trip will be 1 week and we will likely keep it focused to Rome & Florence.  I'm going to put my excel sheet together with all the great recommendations from @Chemical X and others (thank you!!) and come back with some more specific questions.

First thing we are looking to do is book flights, likely arriving Rome FCO.  I think what I'm seeing says best plan would be to go ahead and get into Florence via fast train that first day for an afternoon hotel check-in to begin the adventure.  Trying to keep the pace manageable given we are a group of 4 w/ two seniors.  Their health is pretty solid.

Sunday: PM flight departure from US

Monday: arrive FCO (AM), transit to Florence (PM), 1st night in Florence

Tuesday: day in Florence, 2nd night in Florence

Wednesday: day in Florence (side trip to Siena/San Gimignano?), 3rd night in Florence

Thursday: morning in Florence, transit to Rome (PM), 1st night in Rome

Friday: day in Rome, 2nd night in Rome

Saturday: day in Rome, 3rd night in Rome

Sunday: AM flight departure back to US

 

[jamny]

Just finished reading through this entire thread, whoa ... this is really some helpful stuff!

Good on you for taking your moms. Not something I could ever imagine...lol

Any reason why you are heading to Florence first? It's a long flight and to have to jump on a train right away isn't easy. Of course, I'm thinking more of the parents which I'm sure many will base opinions on.

 

[Boulder Toads]

Good on you for taking your moms. Not something I could ever imagine...lol

Any reason why you are heading to Florence first? It's a long flight and to have to jump on a train right away isn't easy. Of course, I'm thinking more of the parents which I'm sure many will base opinions on.

Ha, yeah we have done a couple trips for / with them in the past and they are actually pretty good travel buddies / good sports.

It's a good question, why go to Florence first, but I was leaning on some comments I read earlier in this thread.  I liked the idea of finishing our trip in the city we fly out from (AM flight out of Rome on the back end), and was also considering hotel check-in times don't start until 2pm/3pm.  With a reasonably short train ride (1.5hrs?), we could use that first day to land in Rome in the AM, take the train to Florence, get checked-in and rest a bit and keep our first night in Florence chill with a walkabout and dinner, etc.

Still thinking through it, but yeah that was my initial thought ... open to other thoughts!

 

[jamny]

It's a reasonable plan then. The early flights home are a pain and being close in Rome is a good option.

 

[Chemical X]

Ha, yeah we have done a couple trips for / with them in the past and they are actually pretty good travel buddies / good sports.

It's a good question, why go to Florence first, but I was leaning on some comments I read earlier in this thread.  I liked the idea of finishing our trip in the city we fly out from (AM flight out of Rome on the back end), and was also considering hotel check-in times don't start until 2pm/3pm.  With a reasonably short train ride (1.5hrs?), we could use that first day to land in Rome in the AM, take the train to Florence, get checked-in and rest a bit and keep our first night in Florence chill with a walkabout and dinner, etc.

Still thinking through it, but yeah that was my initial thought ... open to other thoughts!

what time do you arrive fco?  i would allow at least 1 hour to clear customs and get luggage and then walk to the fco-termini leonardo express, which takes 31 minutes to get to termini.  another 1.15 to florence, then cab to hotel.  the leonardo is 16 per person, but it’s 55 fixed for a cab to rome.  maybe save some time and take a taxi to termini from fco?

 

[Boulder Toads]

what time do you arrive fco?  i would allow at least 1 hour to clear customs and get luggage and then walk to the fco-termini leonardo express, which takes 31 minutes to get to termini.  another 1.15 to florence, then cab to hotel.  the leonardo is 16 per person, but it’s 55 fixed for a cab to rome.  maybe save some time and take a taxi to termini from fco?

Haven't booked flights yet, but looking at routes which would land in FCO on a Monday morning somewhere between 8-10am.  Sounds like budgeting ~3.5 hours to get us into Florence ... maybe we have a late lunch there before making our way to hotel mid-afternoon?  Seems like a reasonable first step.

 

[ex-ghost]

What time of year did you go? I'm reading how the bus up to Ravello can be packed. Thinking of taking a taxi up and walking down. Supposed to be an amazing walk down.

Did you need a reservation at Da Vincenzo? I'm hoping not to have to plan things too tight and be able to walk in.

Damn, Ravello bus is true. Had tickets to a concert and watched 4 buses pass by without stopping. We walked up and up and up over 1000 stairs. Let me tell you, we were not a pretty sight once we got to the show. Ladies in furs, us in short and t-shirts absolutely drenched in sweat. Show was in the evening, would never think of navigating down in the dark.

 

[DA RAIDERS]

Damn, Ravello bus is true. Had tickets to a concert and watched 4 buses pass by without stopping. We walked up and up and up over 1000 stairs. Let me tell you, we were not a pretty sight once we got to the show. Ladies in furs, us in short and t-shirts absolutely drenched in sweat. Show was in the evening, would never think of navigating down in the dark.

Ouch. We always got the bus in amalfi, which was their starting point, so we were lucky. 

 

[Random]

We (me, wife, kids ages 12 and 6) will be landing in FCO on 7/1.  Our itinerary is the following:

7/1-7/3 Rome

7/3-7/6 Cinque Terre

7/6-7/9 Tuscany

7/9-7/11 Venice

We have rooms booked but no transportation.  I'm reading that we should take the train as much as possible, but I think we will need a car for our Tuscany days as we are staying at a vineyard a ways out from the city and would like to see some neighboring areas from here.  

Any recommendations on train/bus tickets and/or car rental?

 

[Morton Muffley]

Got us a cheaper rate than Uber showed the one time we used it.  I was pleased with it.  

The mytaxi app & service are good.  The reason it is cheaper than Uber is because the ONLY Uber in Italy is Uber Black.  Not sure if the Uber app makes that clear when it Italy, but that's what I read and the pricing certainly supports that.

 

[Keerock]

Got us a cheaper rate than Uber showed the one time we used it.  I was pleased with it.  

The mytaxi app & service are good.  The reason it is cheaper than Uber is because the ONLY Uber in Italy is Uber Black.  Not sure if the Uber app makes that clear when it Italy, but that's what I read and the pricing certainly supports that.

Plus... everyone we talked to, especially taxi drivers (of course), told us that Uber was illegal in Italy. 

We used it anyway... and it was all Uber Black.

 

[ex-ghost]

Ouch. We always got the bus in amalfi, which was their starting point, so we were lucky. 

Our mistake, we were in Atrani, so it was always full by the time it got to us.

 

[Bluto Blutarsky]

Is it at the Belmond Hotel Caruso? That place looks incredible. If not, it's probably worth checking out while you're there.

The actual wedding is at Villa Cimbrone. I'll make a note to check out that place as well.

 

[Bluto Blutarsky]

you're in for a treat.  ravello was one of our favorites.  we stayed in amalfi and didn't rent a car.  we took the sita busses and the ferry when we wanted to go anywhere.  super easy.  personally, i wouldn't want to drive there.  the roads are gnarly and parking is worse.

Thanks, from skimming it sounded like I wouldn't need a car, especially just for that area.

Random question for anyone. Cliff diving...any great locations around there? 

 

[Bluto Blutarsky]

Did you need a reservation at Da Vincenzo? I'm hoping not to have to plan things too tight and be able to walk in.

This place is about an hour from where we're staying. Worth the trip? ( or is everything about that spread out?)

 

[jamny]

This place is about an hour from where we're staying. Worth the trip? ( or is everything about that spread out?)

It gets good reviews for the area but I don't think it's a place to go out of your way for. I'm sure you can find similar in Ravello and Amalfi.

 

[jamny]

We (me, wife, kids ages 12 and 6) will be landing in FCO on 7/1.  Our itinerary is the following:

7/1-7/3 Rome

7/3-7/6 Cinque Terre

7/6-7/9 Tuscany

7/9-7/11 Venice

We have rooms booked but no transportation.  I'm reading that we should take the train as much as possible, but I think we will need a car for our Tuscany days as we are staying at a vineyard a ways out from the city and would like to see some neighboring areas from here.  

Any recommendations on train/bus tickets and/or car rental?

I love driving in Italy so always have a car. We only did a day trip to Cinque Terre and parked in Monterosso al Mare. Not sure about long term parking. Obviously, you would drop your car off at a rental office at Venice since there are no cars there. We always use Avis.

 

[DA RAIDERS]

This place is about an hour from where we're staying. Worth the trip? ( or is everything about that spread out?)

We stayed in amalfi.  It was the best meal we ate out.  We just worked it into our positano day trip. 

 

[Nigel]

We (me, wife, kids ages 12 and 6) will be landing in FCO on 7/1.  Our itinerary is the following:

7/1-7/3 Rome

7/3-7/6 Cinque Terre

7/6-7/9 Tuscany

7/9-7/11 Venice

We have rooms booked but no transportation.  I'm reading that we should take the train as much as possible, but I think we will need a car for our Tuscany days as we are staying at a vineyard a ways out from the city and would like to see some neighboring areas from here.  

Any recommendations on train/bus tickets and/or car rental?

No car needed for the first two legs. Train from Rome to La Spezia, the hub for the local trains heading out to the Cinque Terre villages (which are you staying in?). Then on the way out grab a car in La Spezia and drive to your Tuscany destination and eventually to the Venice airport, where you can drop it and then take a water shuttle in to Venice.

We did a very similar trip last summer, with the order of Tuscany and CT switched and a night in Verona thrown in on the way to Venice. Good times.

 

[jamny]

No car needed for the first two legs. Train from Rome to La Spezia, the hub for the local trains heading out to the Cinque Terre villages (which are you staying in?). Then on the way out grab a car in La Spezia and drive to your Tuscany destination and eventually to the Venice airport, where you can drop it and then take a water shuttle in to Venice.

We did a very similar trip last summer, with the order of Tuscany and CT switched and a night in Verona thrown in on the way to Venice. Good times.

Sounds like a great way to do it. Verona is very underrated, btw.

My only concern would be the vehicle options in CT compared to those in Rome. Make sure you lock down what you want. 

 

[Random]

No car needed for the first two legs. Train from Rome to La Spezia, the hub for the local trains heading out to the Cinque Terre villages (which are you staying in?). Then on the way out grab a car in La Spezia and drive to your Tuscany destination and eventually to the Venice airport, where you can drop it and then take a water shuttle in to Venice.

We did a very similar trip last summer, with the order of Tuscany and CT switched and a night in Verona thrown in on the way to Venice. Good times.

That was the tentative plan.  Wasnt sure if that was the best way to do it.  Any thoughts on buying train passes?  Is it like subway tickets in NYC?  Or should we buy a week pass?

We are staying in Riomaggiore.  Had originally planned Rome-Tuscany-CT-VCE, but the place my wife wanted to stay at in Tuscany was booked those days, so we flipped our days.

 

[Random]

Sounds like a great way to do it. Verona is very underrated, btw.

My only concern would be the vehicle options in CT compared to those in Rome. Make sure you lock down what you want. 

We were thinking of taking a train from CT to Florence to get a car and take that to Tuscany.

 

[jamny]

We were thinking of taking a train from CT to Florence to get a car and take that to Tuscany.

Good idea too.

btw - Our first trip to Italy, we started our drive from Venice and picked up the car right from the train station so I don't know if you need to go all the way to the airport to drop it off. Again, it was Avis so I don't know about other rental companies.

 

[Bluto Blutarsky]

What's the cannabis situation on the Amalfi coast. Asking for a friend