Rob Y on November 15th, 2008 3:41 am
In regards to milk, how is pasteurization any different from cooking meat? And all homogenization dose is force the milk through a small hole at high pressure. Kind of like paint through a sprayer.
------------
Anna on November 15th, 2008 6:53 pm
Rob Y,
Good question! You got me thinking.
Yes, there is a difference in some ways, but not in others. Milk is a little different in that it is fluid and the proteins are suspended in liquid rather than in solid form, so one can’t tell if they’ve stiffened up from damage, like we can with poorly cooked meat.
Just like with milk, the wrong treatment *can* ruin meat. I, and many others, like the tender meat cuts seared on the outside but still quite rare on the inside for the best flavor, tenderness, and nutrition/digestibility. Overcooking ruins a good steak, drying it out, and potentially rendering it inedible. Basically, the proteins are completely denatured in an overcooked steak. Many people who grew up on well-done, overcooked dry meat and hated it, never learn that properly cooked rare or medium-rare steak is a pleasure to eat and digests easily.
On the flip side, “tough” cuts from well-worked muscles do very well with long, slow cooking, to break apart the collagen fibers so that the meat falls apart. Cook a tough cut over heat too high and too fast and you’ll have an awful hunk of tough, chewy meat.
A modern way around the long slow cooking of tough cuts in both homes and food factories is to pressure cook (though I don’t use a pressure cooker, probably for obvious reasons). Industrial-sized pressure cookers quickly cook those “heat & serve” packaged pot roasts one sees in the stores, because it’s faster - and fast makes the food cheaper for the consumer and more profitable for the processor. But aside from the lab chemicals and additives in the “heat & serve” pot roast and its plastic wrapper that cloaks the meat for weeks or longer, is the meat still as good as a roast cooked the traditional way? I doubt it, in fact I’m pretty sure of it.
Then again, some people think all meat should be consumed raw, too, as in steak tartar, etc. I’d consider that option if I trusted the source; I don’t trust conventional meat sources.
Milk needs the right care, too, or it’s not fit to consume. But how many even know traditional foods anymore, like raw milk, so how can they compare? How would one know the difference between real milk and factory milk in a side-by-side taste test? The milk boards and dairy councils have done a good job of lumping all milk together, with few differences. Traditional foods like milk are more variable, that’s a certainty, and factory foods are designed to not be variable, unless it is intentional. Factory food is nothing if not very consistent for consumers.
When I was first out on my own, I wondered why most of the cheddar in the US was dyed orange (I grew up in Upstate NY, a dairy state, where the cheddar was most often white unless it was a national brand). Then I met a cheesebroker at a party. The dye is added to cheese through most of the country to mask the variable colors, which change throughout the year or from source to source, from pale white to creamy or deep yellow, depending on the season and the rations: grass, sileage (bales of fermented alfalfa), or grain & other controlled rations. But cheddar is not ever naturally prison-jumpsuit orange, I can assure you of that. Not sure if consumers demanded standardized color for cheddar, but it is provided anyway for our “benefit”. Hmmmph, I prefer cheddar natural and undyed.
Traditionally, humans have long “processed” foods to make them more transportable (dried jerky), more nutritious, easier to digest, and to preserve the foods for later consumption. That sort of processing often results in very flavorful foods, too (aged cheese, miso, sauerkraut, beer, for example). Small scale processing generally takes natural processed in nature and controls them for our purposes, such as bacterial culturing, yeast-proofing, drying, etc. Milk won’t stay fresh and sweet very long unless it kept chilled, because the natural bacteria culture/ferment faster in warmer temps, so some variation on controlled fermentation was a natural way to transform, enhance, and store milk. The results are fresh and aged cheeses, yogurts, sweet and cultured creams, and sweet and cultured butter, as well as soured (clabbered) milk and buttermilk, etc.
When one starts using fresh, raw milk it is easy to see how humans observed, then took some control of the natural processes in dairy - leave milk out and it sours ad thickens naturally from its normal bacteria or the wild bacteria in the air. This milk is still safe to consume, but the bacteria have consumed the lactose while lactic acid increases. Leave the warm milk out longer, and it will separate into curds and whey, a sort of primitive cheese. Again, it’s still safe to consume (pasteurized milk at this point would be pretty putrid and smell foul instead of cheesy, and no one would be tempted to taste it).
Home cheesemaking is quite fun and easy. The less processed the milk is, the better the cheese results. Ultra-pasteurized or UHT milk for instance, isn’t very good for making cheese and ultra-pasteurized cream doesn’t whip nearly as well as raw or the lower temperature pasteurized. Ultra-pasteurized is packed like lower temp pasteurized milk and is sold in the cooler case in the US because that’s where consumers expect “fresh” milk to be, but until opened, it is actually shelf-stable and will keep without chilling (it Europe is usually sold in aseptic boxes on room temp-shelves, but Americans have a preference for cold milk, I guess). Pasteurized and high heat-treated milk won’t nourish a calf’s growth because of the damage and loss of critical factors (why we consume milk from another species is a different argument not addressed here). The very high rapid heat of UHT processing damages the milk protein structure too much (some suspect the damaged proteins isn’t used well by the human body any more, either). It tastes terrible, too, very “cooked” because of the Maillard browning (gee, that is very much like meat, actually), compared to fresh milk.
Most people don’t think of conventional milk as a highly processed food, but it is highly processed, in very different ways than when handled on a small scale such as at home, a farm, or in a cottage/artisan operation. Even home pasteurization on a stove is different from plant processing, just as there is a difference in what happens to egg protein when quickly heated (the proteins stiffen up) compared to the gentle, slow heat when making a custard or creme brulee (stirred constantly over a double boiler to gently heat slowly, resulting in a smooth, creamy texture).
Conventional milk is picked up in huge tankers (hope they’re clean after that last load of liquid eggs!), sloshed to dairy processing plants (places that look sort of like oil refineries but we’ll try not to hold that against them).
As an aside, it’s hard to get tours of dairy plants, unlike breweries and distilleries, Kelloggs, Jelly Belly, or Ben & Jerry’s. Wonder what they don’t want us to see? I can’t even get any stores to provide the names of dairies that make their private label milk. I wanted to know if the herds were on pasture or confined indoors and fed grain (or orange industry waste, old bakery goods, and expired candy bars! I kid you not!, but I didn’t get the chance to ask about these common dairy rations) Industrial scale cow milk herds are fed garbage, treated like machines, and they make watery, but copious amounts of milk. Nope, no grocery corporation I have asked will tell me the who supplies their bulk milk or how the herds are managed and fed, which isn’t very transparent and doesn’t inspire my trust in their milk products.
On the other hand, tours are encourage at the small farm/creamery that our milk comes from (the owner himself guided us around from the cows in the field, to the mobile milking trailer to goes to the cows in the field, to the building where butter was being made, to the bottling facility. The fluid milk is basically chilled, poured through a filter, and bottled, nothing else, unless it is being separated for cream & butter. If the creamline is especially high that season, that’s great for the consumer, none is removed.
Industrial processing controls or imitates nature, too, but above all, it seeks to make food products which maximize profit, so often that means speeding up the production process, slowing down natural biodegradation, eliminating some steps, adding other steps, scaling up production, removing components that reduce efficiency (profit), adding ingredients (that increase profit), etc. In other words, the process is manipulated in ways far removed from those that simply occur in nature or are gently coaxed with simple techniques.
Standard milk processing begins with centrifuging to separate it into liquids, fat, protein, and other milk solids. Then it is reconstituted back into a standardized product of certain percentages of fat, protein, milk solids, etc. (yup, taken apart, then put back together in a slightly different formula, like taking apart a Lego kit and making something that only resembles the original). Milk naturally has varying amounts of butterfat depending on the breed, the health, and the diet of the animal (fast growing high altitude grasses make the best butterfat, rich and deep yellow from carotenes and Vit A - think Heidi and beautiful cows, sheep, and goats in the Alps in Europe).
Butterfat, which carries the important fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, & K, is siphoned off for more profitable uses, like butter, cream, and ice cream. So whole milk isn’t really “whole”, it’s regulated to be exactly 3.5%, 2%, 1% or practically no butterfat (the fresh milk I buy is as much as 8% butterfat at times). That makes skimmed milk very profitable, as you can imagine. Skimmed milk is very watery, with little body, and looks more like “blue water” - very unappetizing, so spray-dried milk solids are added back to it to thicken and whiten it, making it appear more palatable.
Another thing to note is making sun-dried milk processing goes back a long way, to at least the Mongolians of the Kublai Kahn era (armies need portable food), but it’s a far different process than than high pressure spray-drying milk solids with heat, which oxidizes the cholesterol, which is the one form of cholesterol one should avoid. And the synthetic vitamin D2 added to fortify milk is not the same as the natural Vitamin D3 made by animals. Plus without the milk fat, the Vit D may not even be absorbed or utilized if it can’t be converted to Vitamin D3.
By the way, my fresh milk dairy does centrifuge milk for cream and butter-churning, and but it doesn’t reconstitute or adulterate the skimmed milk. They sell skimmed milk, but in far less quantity than the whole milk (real milk aficionados want the whole enchilada, not a pale, watery imitation). In the past, skimmed milk was made into cheese or fed to the chickens or hogs, which were great way to put it to good use.
Back to comparing cooking meat to pasteurizing milk - there’s a phenomenon occurs when cooking meat and during high heat pasteurization - the Maillard effect (browning), which generally enhances the taste of meat, but ruins the taste of milk. You might not see it in white milk or taste it as strongly in regular pasteurized milk , but the cooked taste is detectible to some and most noticeable in the higher temp products, like Ultra-Pasteurized and UHT. UHT (Ultra High Temperature) processed milk suffers the most from it.
In standard pasteurization the reconstituted milk is run over very hot plates at 161 degrees to quickly kill bacteria, both beneficial and potentially pathogenic (there *are* poop and pathogens in the factory bulk milk because there’s no incentive to keep it out with pasteurization). The rapid heat flash also denatures the delicate protein enzymes that make milk more digestible, enhances nutrient bioavailibility, and boost the immune system such as lactase, phosphatase, the immunoglobulins, etc. The delicate protein structures are changed and many people cannot digest or utilize damaged milk proteins well, or the damaged protein shapes trick immune systems into allergic reactions instead of strengthening immune defenses. Ultra-pasteurized and UHT utilize yet higher temps ( and more damage to the milk structure. Europeans, especially Spaniards, consume a lot of UHT milk because not needing chilling until opened, it saves on energy and refrigerator space. I don’t know how they can drink the stuff, though. Even before I ever tried raw milk, I couldn’t stand the taste and “feel” of UHT milk. My son wouldn’t touch ever finish a glass when he was younger, either. Now he drinks lots of raw milk.
In the US there isn’t much interest or money for conducting research on raw dairy foods or the health benefits. Studies in Europe show that children fed raw dairy have less asthma and allergies. A number of raw dairy consumers in the US choose raw dairy specifically to treat asthma and allergies and reduce medication necessity. Lactose intolerant people can often consume raw milk, because the lactase enzyme in the milk breaks down the lactose.
Homogenization is another assault imposed on milk; under intense pressure the milk is forced through miniscule screens, which breaks up the naturally large fat globules, which normally float on top, into very tiny globules that remain dispersed in the milk. There are theories that these tiny fat globules “leak” and pass through the GI tract before they are supposed to, causing health problems and disease, but there isn’t a lot of research on this.
It’s hard to imagine that, homogenization is totally benign. The fat globules aren’t just fat. They’re surrounded by a membrane consisting of phospholipids and proteins; these emulsifiers keep the individual globules from joining together into noticeable grains of butterfat and also protect the globules from the fat-digesting activity of enzymes found in the fluid portion of the milk.
Furthermore, homogenization serves no purpose whatsoever for the consumer (it isn’t hard to give a milk jug a quick shake before pouring - as long as the cap is on securely - my 4th grader’s been managing it a few years), but hiding the cream content does give an advantage to the dairy processor (back when milk was sold in glass bottles by small local farms and dairies, consumers could see which milk had the most cream and if it was very plentiful with a creamy color, or pale and skimpy). Cream was considered important then.
That’s probably more than anyone wants to know about milk. I won’t argue that anyone *must* consume dairy foods, but if one is going to, then it’s worth knowing what that’s been done to that factory milk in between the farm and the store. Factory milk pales in comparison to fresh, real milk in every way, except in cost; factory milk does have a huge price advantage. But I choose to pay more for the real deal that I can trust.