All good points.
For me, art like movies can and hopefully does operate on multiple levels. I can appreciate them purely for the visuals, for the acting, directing, sound/music, the story, the characters, etc...independently or hopefully all together. The best challenge me intellectually and emotionally and keep me thinking and feeling something about the movie after it's finished. If all of that is firing in a way that works for me, it's a masterpiece.
But I can still enjoy movies where not all of that works...like this one. I'm in the camp that found his character and choices frustrating and annoying, so the lead always kept me at a distance. But the story (and I had read the book going in to it) was told really well, the set/site pieces were always going to be amazing (and were, and were filmed well/beautifully) and even though I didn't like the kid, the portrayal was well done, along with the rest of the acting from the rest of the ensemble. Thought Penn did a nice job with the direction, pacing, editing and overall story telling. This was a well made and nice movie to watch, my appreciation for it only tempered by my dislike for the main character.