Just returned from a trip to California wine country. Thought this was as good a place as any to report on where I visited, what I tasted. I'm somewhat new to wine...learned a lot on the trip and found some new favorites. Our entire trip was not centered on wine, so we didn't visit everywhere I thought we might. We did not venture into Napa at all.
We toured Gundlach-Bundschu (Sonoma), Michel Schlumberger (Dry Creek Valley), and Korbel (my wife's choice) and tasted at Martinelli (Russian River Valley), Bella (Dry Creek Valley), Ridge (Dry Creek Valley), VJB (Kenwood), and Bartholomew Park (Sonoma).
All three tours were great. I wasn't excited about the wines at
GunBun but they do a Pinzgauer (all-terrain) tour of the vineyards combined with a cave tour that I thought would be a fun way to start the trip. Unfortunately, though we had made reservations, they had a scheduling glitch and didn't have a driver for the tour. So they made a spot for us on their trivia tour (which included the cave tasting) and comped it. A little disappointed, but we still had a great time. The wines were okay...not spectacular. My favorite, surprisingly, was their Gewurztraminer.
Later that afternoon, we tasted at Bartholomew Park in Sonoma. Honestly kinda forgettable. Again, the wines were nice, but not great. Had a decent rose and a good pinot noir, but the pony-tailed guy at the tasting counter was a little goofy. After the first taste, he told us to go wander into the museum, look around, and come back with a question for him. A homework assignment at a wine tasting...
On our way back from the coast and Redwoods on Saturday, we stopped at Korbel before dinner. Korbel is Korbel...cheapish bubbly stuff, but the tour was actually pretty neat. Amazing success story by the Korbel brothers.
After Korbel, we jetted down the road to hit Martinelli since they stay open a little later than most. Best tasting experience of the trip.
Magnificent wines! Helen Turley was the consulting winemaker for the vintages we tasted. We had a 2008 Zio Tony Ranch Chardonnay, a 2008 Lolita Ranch Chardonnay, 2010 Bella Vigna Pinot Noir, 2009 Bondi Home Pinot Noir, and an excellent Syrah and Zinfandel (don't remember which two). Brought home several bottles from Martinelli and joined their mailing list (no wine club). I was most surprised by the Chardonnays - not usually a Chard drinker but I now know what a "good" Chard tastes like. Everything on the tasting menu was exceptionally well-balanced.
Sunday morning we toured
Michel Schlumberger just west of Healdsburg. Beautiful, quaint place tucked away in Dry Creek Valley. We had a great tour - just 3 of us. The guide, Francesco, really spent a lot of time in the vineyard educating us on root stock, pruning methods, etc...learned a lot. Another great tasting, just a shade less impressive than Martinelli, but great wine after great wine. They do one of the very few pinot noirs in Dry Creek Valley -
2009 Le Fou Pinot Noir - and it was excellent. Brought home a bottle of it and joined the wine club. Overall, this was probably our best experience.
I had very high expectations for the tastings at Bella and Ridge, and they were good, but not great. Had Ridge's bell cow, 2008 Monte Bello cabernet. Goes for about $175 bottle back home. Bella is a neat place...at the very end of a long winding road dotted with other wineries. We had a picnic on the grounds on Sunday afternoon, and it was like something from Martha Stewart or HGTV. Pretty people, dressed in pretty clothes, eating pretty food.
Other notable tasting was in Kenwood at VJB. We were head to San Francisco for the day, but we were able to swing by since they opened at 10 am. Had heard really good things about this small winery. Met the owner, Henry, when we arrived and chatted with him. Really pleasant, welcoming place. They do some different Italian varietals that you don't see everywhere in California. Tasted their
2009 Mendocino Barbera...terrific wine at $30 bottle. Most impressed by their "prized" cab..
2008 Dante. Not on the tasting menu but they were feeling generous, so they poured it for us. One of my favorite wines of the trip...grabbed two bottles (running out of space in the checked luggage).
My main regret was not getting a chance to meet up with FBG Quint, who works at Enkidu. I planned to stop by at Enkidu on the morning we hit VJB but then realized their tasting room didn't open until noon. Quint, sorry I didn't catch you, but many thanks for the tips you provided before our trip.
Had really good meals at Cafe Citti (Kenwood - best gnocchi of my life), Bottega (Yountville - braised short ribs), Willy's Raw Bar (Healdsburg - bacon-wrapped scallops and crab cakes), Spud Point Crab (Bodega Bay - fresh crab sandwich was kick ###), and a good picnic lunch from Oakville Grocery (Healdsburg). Somewhat forgettable meal at Girl and the Fig in Sonoma.
Very enjoyable first trip to wine country...cannot wait to go back.