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Just finished kitchen remodel. Now time to relax a little.
Tankless aren't the most economic solution (but they are nice). I would just get another tankOk, I think my hot water heater is a goner. Any suggestions? I have a fairly flexible - but not unlimited - budget. How are the tankless units?
Throw some photos up, take some credit (ideally before/after)Just finished kitchen remodel. Now time to relax a little.
First thing to do is make sure it's actually a goner. Turn off power at the breaker (then make sure no power is entering unit with one of those voltage detectors if you have one). Turn off water entering the tank, then connect a hose to the spigot at the bottom and drain tank. After a bit you'll need to turn on a nearby sink or open the pressure relief value to break the vacuum you've created and allow the tank to fully drain. Once drained, you can check your heating elements and anode (assuming you have an anode - the tank in the house I bought initially didn't, but I put one in). You can also test your thermostats with an electrical test kit (videos on youtube). As long as the tank itself is fine and isn't leaking - pretty much everything else is easily (and fairly cheaply) replaceable. I just installed new heating elements myself in the past month or two after my wife was sure the tank was a "goner".Ok, I think my hot water heater is a goner. Any suggestions? I have a fairly flexible - but not unlimited - budget. How are the tankless units?
Close to being in the same boat. What I've learned about tankless is, go Rhinnai or Navien and you should be fine. I'll have to step up in size because I have a dedicated hot water circulation run that needs a water recirculater running to it and those only exist in the larger models.Ok, I think my hot water heater is a goner. Any suggestions? I have a fairly flexible - but not unlimited - budget. How are the tankless units?
I went tankless when we built this........love it to death. if I don't need to have 75 gallons of water stuck in my attic, ready to flood me, I am fine with that.Ok, I think my hot water heater is a goner. Any suggestions? I have a fairly flexible - but not unlimited - budget. How are the tankless units?
Can you tell a difference in efficiency? By the way, my "goner" HWH started working again the day after I posted. I dunno what's going on, but I'm gonna figure on replacing it by fall anyway.I went tankless when we built this........love it to death. if I don't need to have 75 gallons of water stuck in my attic, ready to flood me, I am fine with that.
I am no expert, but from a cost perspective, the tankless is on demand and uses gas, WH is likely electric coiled, constantly running to keep heated water available. it takes me about 10 seconds to get hot water, not instant like WH, but I don't notice. takes up less space and the thermostat is easily adjustable.Can you tell a difference in efficiency? By the way, my "goner" HWH started working again the day after I posted. I dunno what's going on, but I'm gonna figure on replacing it by fall anyway.
Just get granite like everyone else
that is a small space, go to a granite yard, they should have a leftover they are looking to dump. win win and wala!Let's talk kitchen counter tops. Mine are builder-grade laminate, light-colored, and about 13 years old. They're showing their age and wear.
I've only got about 27 sq ft to cover (that includes the sink, so actually less), so I'd like something fairly nice but, above all, durable and that won't stain. There are approximately eleventy billion options out there and I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. A friend recommended silestone.
Thoughts?
Any idea what granite goes for installed per sq ft? I tried checking some on-line sites, but they want more info than I want to give right now just to get a price.UH - Dan is right. Just do it. With that amount, it isn't going to cost an arm and a leg either.
I live alone and am gone 12 hours a day, so I'm thinking on-demand is tailor-made for me. Plus, my morning routine makes the 10 second wait for heating a non-issue.I am no expert, but from a cost perspective, the tankless is on demand and uses gas, WH is likely electric coiled, constantly running to keep heated water available. it takes me about 10 seconds to get hot water, not instant like WH, but I don't notice. takes up less space and the thermostat is easily adjustable.
Perfect. So, sell me on granite. Just anecdotal, but I've heard from friends over the last couple of years that they don't like it. I'm fully aware that it may just a contrarian view (knowing said friends makes me want to double down on this), but is there some kind of care of trap door I should watch out for?I just looked up the Baltimore area and got this.
It looks like you could get away with $1200 or maybe less.
Not sure where you are, but there are pros who will run your permits through. I have a friend who does it in MD. It'll cost a couple grand, but that would be worth it for me.Not a homeowner yet but hopefully within a year. We are in the process of building. My current project is getting the final plans through the city permit process. Ugh. What a pain in the ###.
We have a business partner that has built in the area before as well as a GC that is managing the project for us and is also familiar with the process. It's Miami so it's a special kind of governmental control that has to be navigated. Being a gringo in a spanish-dominated bureaucracy doesn't help so a lot of it is being left to our GC.Not sure where you are, but there are pros who will run your permits through. I have a friend who does it in MD. It'll cost a couple grand, but that would be worth it for me.
I have a sister company in Miami and it's not just the government or you being a gringo that controls who gets what, and when. NYC ain't got nothing on South Florida when it comes to the mob.We have a business partner that has built in the area before as well as a GC that is managing the project for us and is also familiar with the process. It's Miami so it's a special kind of governmental control that has to be navigated. Being a gringo in a spanish-dominated bureaucracy doesn't help so a lot of it is being left to our GC.
Sink - we have always had stainless, don't love it, but it's pretty easy to maintain. A lot of people like the big farmhouse 1 basin sinks - they look awesome, but I want someplace to rinse stuff off without getting the soapy water diluted.Perfect. So, sell me on granite. Just anecdotal, but I've heard from friends over the last couple of years that they don't like it. I'm fully aware that it may just a contrarian view (knowing said friends makes me want to double down on this), but is there some kind of care of trap door I should watch out for?
I'm also gonna get a new sink. Right now, I have a stainless steel 50/50 double, which absolutely sucks. You can't put a big stock pot or pan in either side. I'm going to go with a 75/25, but what material?
I'd guess $30-$50 Sq ft depending on style you pick and what kind of edges. We got the standard edge and had a few chips so I'd recommend at least a rounded/beveled edge. Sink install was done by then too. Big stainless Basin styleAny idea what granite goes for installed per sq ft? I tried checking some on-line sites, but they want more info than I want to give right now just to get a price.
eta: I'm just trying to get an order of magnitude. I know there are variables.
Wait I need to seal itSink - we have always had stainless, don't love it, but it's pretty easy to maintain. A lot of people like the big farmhouse 1 basin sinks - they look awesome, but I want someplace to rinse stuff off without getting the soapy water diluted.
Granite - Ours has been easy to maintain. It's dark with lots of "stuff" in it, so it hides stuff (probably too well). Breeze to maintain. Got to seal it once a year ...and we haven't been great about that. It is a porous material so you do have to be a little careful if you get a really light color I guess.
ETA: sealing it is no big deal, its just a spray that you wipe on, leave and wipe off.
I agree with your friend. Any Quartz product is best imo. Silestone, caesarstone, etc. no maintenance and more durable than granite.Let's talk kitchen counter tops. Mine are builder-grade laminate, light-colored, and about 13 years old. They're showing their age and wear.
I've only got about 27 sq ft to cover (that includes the sink, so actually less), so I'd like something fairly nice but, above all, durable and that won't stain. There are approximately eleventy billion options out there and I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. A friend recommended silestone.
Thoughts?
Can you sprayfoam around any penetrations?So I discovered a wet spot in my basement carpet. It was directly under a vent in my bulkhead. There is no plumbing above and this is the last vent in the line. It was 99 outside most of that week and the ac was constantly running. So condensation buildup dripping.
My hvac guy agreed and thinks that whoever finished the basement and cut into the ductwork did a poor job installing and insulating (if any was done). He also stated that it is possible that there is hot air from the outside getting into the bulkhead.
That comment set off a lightbulb. I have had a mouse problem in that same bulkhead and believe they are somehow getting into the house from that area.
Ive had exterminators here every few months and we have bait stations in the bulkhead (and other areas inside and ourside of the house). The most outside activity is on one side of the house where i typically first hear a mouse in the bulkhead. We have plugged certain areas with copper mesh and thought the problem was solved until last night when i heard a mouse up there again.
Can i use an infrared camera to identify a penetration to the ouside of the house that may be in that bulkhead or behind a finished wall in the basement? Where can i get one and how do i use it?
any other suggestions?
I'm from Maryland, av, but live over in western VA nowadays. Besides being a couple hours away from my family, the thing I miss most about living here is the dearth of options for stuff like this (it's REALLY rural where I live). But, if your guy is hungry, I'm more than happy to talk to him. Honestly, it's probably a half-day job at most.@Uruk-Hai, where do you live? MD, right? I have a granite guy I can PM to you. Lowest price around (by far), OG edges included as well as a sink. I did my fairly large kitchen with a big island for something like $3300 and my bar in the basement for $2700. I referred him to a few people and they have been super appreciative. Let me know if you're interested.
Don't think it would work. He's the cheapest because he does SO much volume.I'm from Maryland, av, but live over in western VA nowadays. Besides being a couple hours away from my family, the thing I miss most about living here is the dearth of options for stuff like this (it's REALLY rural where I live). But, if your guy is hungry, I'm more than happy to talk to him. Honestly, it's probably a half-day job at most.
Going to have to rip out part of the bulkhead and find out ....Can you sprayfoam around any penetrations?
Who did the testing for you?For any of you guys trying to get a nice lawn... be sure to get soil samples. I did it this year, then got my chemistry right, and with very little maintenance I have one of the greenest lawns around
I have Cambria Quartz for my office desktop and love it. Granite is cheaper, but requires a little maintenance for a kitchen. I am sold on manufactured stone. Hth.I agree with your friend. Any Quartz product is best imo. Silestone, caesarstone, etc. no maintenance and more durable than granite.
Good time of year to plant trees - I planted mine in the spring and it was rough going through the mid-summer drought. Yours will have only a few weeks before cooler temps set in, but a while before winter.had hoa install a couple new trees. should I just be watering these a few times a week when there's a drought or should I bust out some miracle grow
our previous tree died from some type of sickness. hoping this one survivesGood time of year to plant trees - I planted mine in the spring and it was rough going through the mid-summer drought. Yours will have only a few weeks before cooler temps set in, but a while before winter.
Re. watering - No need for miracle grow. Just do a DEEP watering 1x week if you don't get rain. Set a drip hose around the base of the root ball and run it for 45 minutes or so.
I had the local university do it for me. Like $15 a shot (I did 3 samples). I then had this forum analyze the results and make specific recommendations.Who did the testing for you?
I'd use one of those "watering doughnuts" or whatever they're called....fill it up and it waters for a couple hours, nice and deep....something like this (though this is one that sits up around the trunk)Good time of year to plant trees - I planted mine in the spring and it was rough going through the mid-summer drought. Yours will have only a few weeks before cooler temps set in, but a while before winter.had hoa install a couple new trees. should I just be watering these a few times a week when there's a drought or should I bust out some miracle grow
Re. watering - No need for miracle grow. Just do a DEEP watering 1x week if you don't get rain. Set a drip hose around the base of the root ball and run it for 45 minutes or so.
I've used one of those too - I think mine is called a "Gator Bag." They work fine too. I guess I just found it easier to leave the hose run across my lawn and just turn it on as needed vs. dragging the hose out and filling it up all the time. My trees were 200'+ from the nearest faucet though.I'd use one of those "watering doughnuts" or whatever they're called....fill it up and it waters for a couple hours, nice and deep....something like this (though this is one that sits up around the trunk)
What type of tree if you don't mind me asking? I'm just starting to try and figure out what kind of trees seem to have issues and why, so I'm curious.our previous tree died from some type of sickness. hoping this one survives
We just moved into our home in January that we built. I was cleaning out a drawer (the "junk" drawer that the builder left all of the appliance manuals, etc in) and came across the instructions from the landscaping company that did our house. In the watering details, they said to NOT leave a hose on the tree or "trickle water" it at all. They said that newly planted trees MUST be given direct stream watering (meaning hard stream). Not sure why, but that's what it said. These aren't juvenile trees (our river birch is 14 ft) so maybe there is a difference in care for that reason. I dunno.I've used one of those too - I think mine is called a "Gator Bag." They work fine too. I guess I just found it easier to leave the hose run across my lawn and just turn it on as needed vs. dragging the hose out and filling it up all the time. My trees were 200'+ from the nearest faucet though.
how has it been working with your architect? any negatives so far? positives? TIA.Not a homeowner yet but hopefully within a year. We are in the process of building. My current project is getting the final plans through the city permit process. Ugh. What a pain in the ###.
Could it have to do with mold, maybe? Not letting things dry out?We just moved into our home in January that we built. I was cleaning out a drawer (the "junk" drawer that the builder left all of the appliance manuals, etc in) and came across the instructions from the landscaping company that did our house. In the watering details, they said to NOT leave a hose on the tree or "trickle water" it at all. They said that newly planted trees MUST be given direct stream watering (meaning hard stream). Not sure why, but that's what it said. These aren't juvenile trees (our river birch is 14 ft) so maybe there is a difference in care for that reason. I dunno.
ETA: This was the first I'd ever heard of where trickle watering was discouraged. Anyone know why that may be?
or marble, like all of my richie-rich clients.Just get granite like everyone else
UH - Dan is right. Just do it. With that amount, it isn't going to cost an arm and a leg either.
emerald ash treeWhat type of tree if you don't mind me asking? I'm just starting to try and figure out what kind of trees seem to have issues and why, so I'm curious.
I have a purple plum that's getting destroyed by Japanese Beetles, and a flowering cherry that consistently has some kind of leaf fungus. I started treating both this year - The plum looks as bad as it did last year - 2/3 of leaves are full of holes. The cherry still has its leaves, but they're full of yellow spots - it's an improvement as last year by this time, the leaves would be mostly gone.