About to kick off a renovation - Bed/Bath/Family Room/Home Theater (1 Viewer)

[wilked]

Breaking ground (ie demolition) happens Thursday.  I have largely planned this thing out myself and could use some additional opinions on things to consider / watch out for / change. Will be contracting out the majority (likely will do the 'finishing' work).

Here's a before and after - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4rklnXTK4MpTFJzVzF6OWtBSFE/view?usp=sharing

Floorplan (two pages, one for floorplan and one for wiring) can be found here

http://pdfsr.com/pdf/plans-1

Idea of the family room space I am converting here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4rklnXTK4MpOFJPeDdyX2FEOUU/view?usp=sharing

Overview: Basic attic space conversion.  I have just about 10 feet from floor to ridge board in center of room.  The bedroom portion is existing, bathroom and family room will be new.  There is an existing stairway from the common hallway on second floor.  Home is 100 years old and in Boston area.

Insulation - I will be adding closed cell foam to the 2x6 rafters, 5.5" of foam for R-39 or so.  3.5" on uninsulated walls (R-24)

Heating / Cooling - I am adding central air and heat pump to the house (Bryant/Carrier unit.  Heats down to 10 F).  Ducting will feed second and third floors only (have in-wall 2 ton A/C on first floor).  Heating will be supplementary to existing gas boiler.

Plumbing - I have closets underneath the new bathroom on both 2nd and 1st floors so will build a 6"x6" 'pipe chase' to run both electrical and plumbing down to basement

Bedroom - Bedroom is already built / existing, just need to refinish floors.  I am 'demo'ing' the closet to make way for the bathroom.  Instead I plan to build one of these into the knee wall http://www.icreativeideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Creative-DIY-Built-in-Dresser-1.jpg

Bathroom - Basic 3/4 bath.  Tile floor, wainscoting half-walls, tiled shower that looks very similar to this https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4rklnXTK4MpaDE2WVdmNkRUdW8/view?usp=sharing .  Will add skylight (fixed), centered above toilet.  Fan will be wired to be 'always on' since no windows open.  

Family Room - This is probably where I spent the most 'creative' energy.  

*I chose cork flooring (this one http://www.wicanders.com/us/produtos/traces-spice/ ), for its 'warmth', sound deadening properties, and forgiveness for kids wrestling around.  

*Knee walls will be 4 feet.  Wallboard for ceiling, painted grey and 'flat' to minimize light reflection from projector

*Will have projector screen (motorized) hung from ceiling just above the only set of windows, so when in use will cover up windows.  Can only do 84" screen, anything bigger won't fit.  Projector to hang from ceiling.  

*Plans show where A/V cabinet will go.  New Denon receiver (this one http://www.soundandvision.com/content/denon-avr-x1200w-av-receiver-review#kUYewMwyc35Jp5oM.97 ).  Have existing fronts.  Will need to do 'phantom' center, the only place I could put center would be above screen and acoustically won't work.  Below screen will be too low and won't work (behind screen is the window).  Will run all wiring behind walls of course.  Will get a nice new subwoofer, thinking SVS.  Want to do 'in-wall' rear surrounds

*Plan to do two sets of drawers in knee walls (see above in bedroom) and two open shelving for kids crap.  Plans show this.

None of the details are accurate, but in a rough sense this is what I am looking for https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4rklnXTK4MpbDlQVHI4SElUQ1k/view?usp=sharing

---------------------

So with that, any feedback?  Things to consider, pay attention to, etc?  I appreciate any and all help.

Thanks

 

[The Z Machine]

How durable is the cork floor? I always imagine chunks would be taken out from impacts.

You could also consider other soundproofing if that family room is above bedrooms.

What about a mini fridge or a kegerator?

 

[Fat Nick]

Just built a pretty substantial home theater in our basement.  Some thoughts:

-Don't go with the Denon X1200 - For only like $200 more ($799 at newegg and other places), you can get the X4200, which adds a LOT of useful features.  It's a great system.  Buy it NOW, as they're replacing it with a "new" model, and it's basically just a minor refresh to add Heos, so the old model does 90% of what the new one does, and they're at deep discounts.

-I went 100% in-wall.  We have a 2-year old, so that was a big one.  I went with all Definitive Technology Reference in-wall.  3 fronts, 2 surrounds and 2 ceiling atmos, + in-wall subwoofers.  Ebay sourced saved ~30% off MSRP.  If you're building from scratch, in-wall is easy...SVS subs are awesome.  Better than what I have if you have the space and are OK with free-standing. 

-Run way more wires than you think you'll need while framing.  Run add'l HDMI, run lots of Cat6, etc.  The wires are cheap vs. tearing stuff out in the future.

-I got an Elunevision screen.  Great quality for the price.  Contact the manufacturer directly for the best price.  They have a good acoustically transparent screen if you want to maximize space with speakers behind it.

-Lastly, if you're considering a dedicated theater, build an AV closet and get a good AV rack - rack-mount all your stuff.  Cleanest install you can do IMO.

 

[Mr. Ected]

Check with your local code to see if by removing the closet, the space upstairs qualifies as a 'bedroom.' This could be important for house resale value.

 

[cashman88]

I've done several major remodels of homes that I own.  Two things you can always count on:

1.  Expect to go over budget by 25%; and

2.  Expect a delay of at least one major holiday - e.g., if its supposed to be ready by Labor Day, it won't be done until after July 4.

 

[wilked]

How durable is the cork floor? I always imagine chunks would be taken out from impacts.

You could also consider other soundproofing if that family room is above bedrooms.

What about a mini fridge or a kegerator?

I researched the heck out of it.  Cork looks to be very durable.  We have samples at home and unless you are really attacking it, hard to damage.  It's not the cork you are used to.

I looked into soundproofing, it's a slippery slope if you really get into it.  We are going to use the cork material for its soundproofing help, but will rely on the 'shut the hell up and go to bed' method if the kids are loud at night in the family room.

Finally, kegerator sounds interesting but it is a family room, kids are 1 and 4 right now.  We'll bring a cooler upstairs if needed for a gathering / hangout.  

Good thoughts, thanks

 

[wilked]

Check with your local code to see if by removing the closet, the space upstairs qualifies as a 'bedroom.' This could be important for house resale value.

In my area it really doesn't matter I don't think.  Whether we have to list it as a 3 BR or 4BR, people will buy based on the sq-ft.  The bathroom will add a lot more value than a closet (we only have 1 bath currently).

 

[Dismattle]

Hows the ventilation ducts sit for the extra bathroom?

Think ya may need two already..

 

[wilked]

Just built a pretty substantial home theater in our basement.  Some thoughts:

-Don't go with the Denon X1200 - For only like $200 more ($799 at newegg and other places), you can get the X4200, which adds a LOT of useful features.  It's a great system.  Buy it NOW, as they're replacing it with a "new" model, and it's basically just a minor refresh to add Heos, so the old model does 90% of what the new one does, and they're at deep discounts.

-I went 100% in-wall.  We have a 2-year old, so that was a big one.  I went with all Definitive Technology Reference in-wall.  3 fronts, 2 surrounds and 2 ceiling atmos, + in-wall subwoofers.  Ebay sourced saved ~30% off MSRP.  If you're building from scratch, in-wall is easy...SVS subs are awesome.  Better than what I have if you have the space and are OK with free-standing. 

-Run way more wires than you think you'll need while framing.  Run add'l HDMI, run lots of Cat6, etc.  The wires are cheap vs. tearing stuff out in the future.

-I got an Elunevision screen.  Great quality for the price.  Contact the manufacturer directly for the best price.  They have a good acoustically transparent screen if you want to maximize space with speakers behind it.

-Lastly, if you're considering a dedicated theater, build an AV closet and get a good AV rack - rack-mount all your stuff.  Cleanest install you can do IMO.

glooks on this Nick.  Will check out the 4200.  

AVSforum guys were pretty negative on 'in-wall' front speakers, so that is my main reason not to use them.  Besides, I only have 2x4s on that wall, and I need to spray-foam insulation on it.  Don't think in-wall will work (though I am doing in-wall surrounds).  I am looking into Atmos...  As for sub, per AVS recommendation I am going to go with  http://www.rythmikaudio.com/lv12r.html  .  

Can you give an example of 'where' you would run the wires?  I plan to run the following:

HDMI: Proj to AVCabinet.  

Cat6: ProjScreen to Proj

Cable: basement to AVCabinet

Speaker wire where it makes sense

What else and where should I run?

Last one - I was going to just build shelving, 20 or 22" wide as the AV Cabinet.  Are you talking about buying a pre-fab'd cabinet?

 

[regularguy]

Is the joist support sufficient to convert from an attic to livable space? 

When we bought our house, the previous owners had begun the process of finishing the attac with a subfloor & framing in place along with plumbing & some electrical.  A few months ago, we chose a contractor to complete the job, but before starting it, I had my best friend who's a structural engineer come look it over.  After pulling up some subfloor, we confirmed that nothing was added to the original 2x6 joists other than some rudimentary attempts to add beams behind the knee walls.  We tried to find some other solutions such as LVL beams but ran into too many logistical issues.  Now, we're going to be tearing out all the framing and subfloor, adding 2x10's to each joist to span from the front to the back of the house for added support just to get back where we are now before moving forward.  The house (1950) has already had settling issues so I just couldn't take the chance and ignore the issue. 

 

[Mr. Ected]

glooks on this Nick.  Will check out the 4200.  

AVSforum guys were pretty negative on 'in-wall' front speakers, so that is my main reason not to use them.  Besides, I only have 2x4s on that wall, and I need to spray-foam insulation on it.  Don't think in-wall will work (though I am doing in-wall surrounds).  I am looking into Atmos...  As for sub, per AVS recommendation I am going to go with  http://www.rythmikaudio.com/lv12r.html  .  

Can you give an example of 'where' you would run the wires?  I plan to run the following:

HDMI: Proj to AVCabinet.  

Cat6: ProjScreen to Proj

Cable: basement to AVCabinet

Speaker wire where it makes sense

What else and where should I run?

Last one - I was going to just build shelving, 20 or 22" wide as the AV Cabinet.  Are you talking about buying a pre-fab'd cabinet?

Make sure you run electrical outlets to all areas where you are placing equipment (keeping outlets hidden). Thinking of the motorized screen and the projector and the AV cabinet.

 

[Fat Nick]

glooks on this Nick.  Will check out the 4200.  

AVSforum guys were pretty negative on 'in-wall' front speakers, so that is my main reason not to use them.  Besides, I only have 2x4s on that wall, and I need to spray-foam insulation on it.  Don't think in-wall will work (though I am doing in-wall surrounds).  I am looking into Atmos...  As for sub, per AVS recommendation I am going to go with  http://www.rythmikaudio.com/lv12r.html  .  

Can you give an example of 'where' you would run the wires?  I plan to run the following:

HDMI: Proj to AVCabinet.  

Cat6: ProjScreen to Proj

Cable: basement to AVCabinet

Speaker wire where it makes sense

What else and where should I run?

Last one - I was going to just build shelving, 20 or 22" wide as the AV Cabinet.  Are you talking about buying a pre-fab'd cabinet?

I think in-wall does require some compromises, but I wouldn't call them negatives.  Just like anything else, there are trade-offs, and it depends on what you want.  If you read around AVSforum about the Def Tech. RLS II's, you'll read some good things.  The big knock on in-wall is usually the infinite baffle set-up.  With the Def Tech RLS's, you get a fully-enclosed speaker that fits in a standard 2x4 wall.  They're built solid.  Sound, to my (somewhat deaf) ears very good.  I had a high-end Polk free-standing system, and my in-wall system sounds better IMO, minus the bass.  The in-wall subs aren't as good as free-standing, and cost more...but for me, aesthetics won out there.  My wife was already anti-bass, but she could stomach it more with an in-wall 12" vs. an big black box in the corner. 

Regarding wiring...

For speakers, if you can, run wires from your AV cabinet to each of the recommended locations in an Atmos 9.1.2 system.  (3 front, 1 pair side, surround, and rear, and the 4 atmos)  If you EVER think you'll upgrade the system.  At least if you ever need it, you can just fish the wire out and be good.  I have a 5.1.2 system right now, but I've got the wires run to go up to 9.1.2 if I ever want to. 

For HDMI, how long is your run from AV to projector?  In my case, it was 25', which is the theoretical limit of current 4K capable passive HDMI cables.  I ran 3 HDMI cables and 4 Cat6 lines from the cabinet to the projector.  1 was a large gauge passive, 1 was a high-grade passive, and 1 was a Redmere active cable.  The Redmere had a lot of 2.2 handshake issues and would cut in and out, but the high-gauge and high-grade ones both worked...That's why I ran a bunch...so you have options.  The Cat6 provides me with the ability to upgrade as if connection standards ever change, I can hopefully get Baluns that work off the Cat 6 (i.e. HDMI via HDBaseT)....Also, don't forget to run a line from  your screen to your projector or AV if you're using a 12v. trigger to make your screen drop down automatically (I'm guessing that's what the Cat6 from the proj screen to projector is for, but just in case it's not...)

I ended up putting a 24-line passive ethernet switch in my AV cabinet, so I run all my Cat6 runs down to that closet.  If you have the ability to do something like that, and don't already have Cat6 in the basement, run that while you run the cable line.  I'm always a fan of hard-wired vs. WiFi when it's available.  Much more stable, and will always have higher, or at least equal bandwidth. 

In general, I ran 2x the HDMI's I needed, and at least 2 additional Cat6 above what I actually needed now, if not more.  I bought Cat6 and Speakerwire bulk from Monoprice, so I had plenty to go around.

I'm assuming you'll run all your source devices to the AVR and then from the AVR to the speakers, and projector, so most of the other stuff will be in your AV cabinet.  RE. the cabinet I'm talking about, it's something like THIS:  (Not mine...but mine is essentially like this).  The frame is basically a Middle Atlantic A/V rack.  It's framed into the wall, and has a closet door behind it.  I can access mine from the unfinished part of my basement.  Check out customavrack.com for more ideas/details/prices.  It lets you have a nice clean rack, and access all the wires on the back.  You can get custom faceplates for your AV gear, storage drawers, etc.  I've got a 75" LED AND A 112" projector that drops down for movie nights, but the AV rack gets more comments than anything else.

 

[Fat Nick]

Make sure you run electrical outlets to all areas where you are placing equipment (keeping outlets hidden). Thinking of the motorized screen and the projector and the AV cabinet.

Yes.  Good point.  Consider a good power conditioner too.  I got a lightly used Panamax with the voltage displays, etc. for like $200.  I actually had my electrician run in-wall extension cords from my AV closet to the TV an the projector so I could power them from the conditioner too).  In-wall extensions = look like normal outlets at the TV and projector, but the other end is connected to a male AC plug rather than into the hot electircal, then I bridge them to the main outlet in the closet via a short extension cable.

 

[cashman88]

Some thoughts:

- I used in-wall speakers for one of my remodels and love 'em  I used B&W speakers for in-wall and in-ceiling.  I think they sound and look great.  Another nod for an SVS sub if you can fit it.

- I had the electrician put all of my a/v equipment on its own circuit breaker to avoid any interference with other electronics or lighting.

- If you're putting a lot of a/v equipment in a cabinet, you should think of a way to cool the equipment.  Installing a fan to vent the cabinet will help dissipate the heat from all of the electronics.

 

[Mr. Ected]

Make sure you run electrical outlets to all areas where you are placing equipment (keeping outlets hidden). Thinking of the motorized screen and the projector and the AV cabinet.

Yes.  Good point.  Consider a good power conditioner too.  I got a lightly used Panamax with the voltage displays, etc. for like $200.  I actually had my electrician run in-wall extension cords from my AV closet to the TV an the projector so I could power them from the conditioner too).  In-wall extensions = look like normal outlets at the TV and projector, but the other end is connected to a male AC plug rather than into the hot electircal, then I bridge them to the main outlet in the closet via a short extension cable.

A couple weeks ago, I moved my TV from an inside to an outside wall. There was an outlet that was hidden behind the TV, and I wanted to do something similar for the new position. Since I am not an electrician, nor did I want to spend a bunch of $$$ on one, I purchased one of these (I think this is similar to what Fat Nick is mentioning) for hiding the outlet wire in the wall, while staying up to code. My only issue with it is trying to find a cable that has a 90 degree female end to plug into that outlet, so that the cord goes right towards the floor without sticking out a bunch.

The only other thought is to run as much of the cabling before you have the insulation sprayed. Or if you can't, try running some tubes in the walls to allow for easier movement of the cables.

 

[Johnny Rock]

After a quick glance here are a few thoughts. 

Is it possible to eliminate the wall/door at the bottom of the stairs so it opens up straight into the family room? Much more inviting than three doors there. 

For insulation, I love closed cell sprayfoam and believe it should be required. My question is whether you may be able to save money in the attic by spraying 3" down onto the upstairs ceiling and using blow-in insulation on top of that to the desired thickness/R-Value? That's what we did rather than all foam. My cousin was a sprayfoam guy and he said you get the vapor barrier from sprayfoam at 2.5" so no need to do thicker there. 

 

[Fat Nick]

A couple weeks ago, I moved my TV from an inside to an outside wall. There was an outlet that was hidden behind the TV, and I wanted to do something similar for the new position. Since I am not an electrician, nor did I want to spend a bunch of $$$ on one, I purchased one of these (I think this is similar to what Fat Nick is mentioning) for hiding the outlet wire in the wall, while staying up to code. My only issue with it is trying to find a cable that has a 90 degree female end to plug into that outlet, so that the cord goes right towards the floor without sticking out a bunch.

The only other thought is to run as much of the cabling before you have the insulation sprayed. Or if you can't, try running some tubes in the walls to allow for easier movement of the cables.

Yep - I basically "made" one of these using a larger A/V box and a male plug outlet.  As long as you do it up to code (all connections in box, etc) you can in theory make them as long as you like.  For me, my AV closet is 25' from where the TV and projector are.  Nice and clean.

 

[Mr. Ected]

A couple weeks ago, I moved my TV from an inside to an outside wall. There was an outlet that was hidden behind the TV, and I wanted to do something similar for the new position. Since I am not an electrician, nor did I want to spend a bunch of $$$ on one, I purchased one of these (I think this is similar to what Fat Nick is mentioning) for hiding the outlet wire in the wall, while staying up to code. My only issue with it is trying to find a cable that has a 90 degree female end to plug into that outlet, so that the cord goes right towards the floor without sticking out a bunch.

The only other thought is to run as much of the cabling before you have the insulation sprayed. Or if you can't, try running some tubes in the walls to allow for easier movement of the cables.

Yep - I basically "made" one of these using a larger A/V box and a male plug outlet.  As long as you do it up to code (all connections in box, etc) you can in theory make them as long as you like.  For me, my AV closet is 25' from where the TV and projector are.  Nice and clean.

I think the trick is also to use the proper wire for inside the walls. Which was one reason I went with the one I purchased, to go with the K.I.S.S. mode of installation!

 

[wilked]

Is the joist support sufficient to convert from an attic to livable space? 

When we bought our house, the previous owners had begun the process of finishing the attac with a subfloor & framing in place along with plumbing & some electrical.  A few months ago, we chose a contractor to complete the job, but before starting it, I had my best friend who's a structural engineer come look it over.  After pulling up some subfloor, we confirmed that nothing was added to the original 2x6 joists other than some rudimentary attempts to add beams behind the knee walls.  We tried to find some other solutions such as LVL beams but ran into too many logistical issues.  Now, we're going to be tearing out all the framing and subfloor, adding 2x10's to each joist to span from the front to the back of the house for added support just to get back where we are now before moving forward.  The house (1950) has already had settling issues so I just couldn't take the chance and ignore the issue. 

2x10, 16 on center.  She'll hold

 

[wilked]

After a quick glance here are a few thoughts. 

Is it possible to eliminate the wall/door at the bottom of the stairs so it opens up straight into the family room? Much more inviting than three doors there. 

For insulation, I love closed cell sprayfoam and believe it should be required. My question is whether you may be able to save money in the attic by spraying 3" down onto the upstairs ceiling and using blow-in insulation on top of that to the desired thickness/R-Value? That's what we did rather than all foam. My cousin was a sprayfoam guy and he said you get the vapor barrier from sprayfoam at 2.5" so no need to do thicker there. 

I am insulating the roofrafters (2x6).  Nothing other than spray foam will get me a good R Value.  Your solution is for insulating the floor of an attic, yes?

 

[wilked]

All wiring will be run pre-sprayfoam.  No way I am going to be able to run much after.  

Nick, all great thoughts.  Cah/Nick, I will look into those in-walls...  I still am not sure I can do it but I will consider it as I love the idea

 

[wilked]

Also, goodlooks on all the electrical advice (conditioner, isolated circuits).  I will do all of that

 

[wilked]

After a quick glance here are a few thoughts. 

Is it possible to eliminate the wall/door at the bottom of the stairs so it opens up straight into the family room? Much more inviting than three doors there. 

For insulation, I love closed cell sprayfoam and believe it should be required. My question is whether you may be able to save money in the attic by spraying 3" down onto the upstairs ceiling and using blow-in insulation on top of that to the desired thickness/R-Value? That's what we did rather than all foam. My cousin was a sprayfoam guy and he said you get the vapor barrier from sprayfoam at 2.5" so no need to do thicker there. 

Doorways are like this:

From common second floor hallway, a doorway on the entrance to the stairs going to 3rd floor.  Once you reach top of stairs there is a landing, with three doorways (one to each room - bedroom, bathroom, family room).

I wanted a door between family room and 2nd floor for when the kids are playing video games and making more noise than I want.  I either put that door on second floor (entrance to stairs, where there is an existing door) or at the family room itself.

My thinking is that the hallway 2nd floor is 'tight' (door opens into hallway, not into stairs) so for that reason was going to eliminate that door, and install a door 3rd floor to family room.

I agree though, that I expect that door to be open 95% of the time, closed only when the boys are making noise and there are no chicks up there

 

[El Floppo]

cork floors are fantastic. just installed one in a bar/laundry/pantry for a client. obviously you don't want to walk around in stilletos or anything... but they're more than durable.

plan looks good. do you have to file the plumbing work? what kind of waterproofing for the floor are you using? finishes? all-in-one shower?

any chance of adding dormers- now or later? 

oh yeah..

hire a frigging architect.

 

[El Floppo]

also- love that you're grabbing all that storage back... could see it getting pricey, all that custom millwork.

 

[cstu]

Doorways are like this:

From common second floor hallway, a doorway on the entrance to the stairs going to 3rd floor.  Once you reach top of stairs there is a landing, with three doorways (one to each room - bedroom, bathroom, family room).

I wanted a door between family room and 2nd floor for when the kids are playing video games and making more noise than I want.  I either put that door on second floor (entrance to stairs, where there is an existing door) or at the family room itself.

My thinking is that the hallway 2nd floor is 'tight' (door opens into hallway, not into stairs) so for that reason was going to eliminate that door, and install a door 3rd floor to family room.

I agree though, that I expect that door to be open 95% of the time, closed only when the boys are making noise and there are no chicks up there

If you want to keep that door to the family room then can you move it to the right?

This would allow you to put in a door to the bathroom that opens against the chimney.  Would give you a lot more effective space in that small bathroom and wouldn't take any away from the family room.

 

[El Floppo]

If you want to keep that door to the family room then can you move it to the right?

This would allow you to put in a door to the bathroom that opens against the chimney.  Would give you a lot more effective space in that small bathroom and wouldn't take any away from the family room.

looks like that wall and door are already there... but I like the thought, if he's open to reframing. 

could also make the bathroom door a pocket door.

 

[El Floppo]

ventilating the bathroom? standard ceiling fan exhausting out? opening up new hole in roof for vent/cap?

 

[Johnny Rock]

I am insulating the roofrafters (2x6).  Nothing other than spray foam will get me a good R Value.  Your solution is for insulating the floor of an attic, yes?

Yes. I didn't realize you're using your attic for living space. I'm sure you know this but make sure there are vent baffles between the sprayfoam and the roof. 

 

[culdeus]

I did a similar project in my old house, instead of getting an actual screen I used wall paint and shot the projector straight on the wall.  It worked really well.  I was just going to do the paint as an experiment and then go ahead and buy the screen, the paint was like 350, but they sent me a sample for free, and with that sample I got a good bit of coverage and was blown away.  

This allowed me to have like 4 projectors running at once (yeah) for multiple games and then showing fantasy scores and betting stuff.  I got ####ty projectors off craigslist for my supplemental ones.

 

[wilked]

Yes. I didn't realize you're using your attic for living space. I'm sure you know this but make sure there are vent baffles between the sprayfoam and the roof. 

Everything I've read and been told is no vents. The spray foam completely seals it, no ice dams possible since the insulation factor so high (can't melt/freeze). 

There will be no vents 

 

[wilked]

ventilating the bathroom? standard ceiling fan exhausting out? opening up new hole in roof for vent/cap?

Panasonic quiet fan. Will exhaust over the bedroom ceiling and put a new hole above that window 

 

[wilked]

Only holes in roof will be:

1. New stink pipe

2. Skylight 

will add add new hole on side of house for bathroom exhaust

 

[wilked]

cork floors are fantastic. just installed one in a bar/laundry/pantry for a client. obviously you don't want to walk around in stilletos or anything... but they're more than durable.

plan looks good. do you have to file the plumbing work? what kind of waterproofing for the floor are you using? finishes? all-in-one shower?

any chance of adding dormers- now or later? 

oh yeah..

hire a frigging architect.

Will file building permit, electrical, plumbing 

Also, what the hell I need an architect for???

i did spend $500 on arcbazar though, got good ideas there. 

I considered a dormer but that would have doubled the cost. I was going to add a dormer and place the bathroom over it, til I came up with the idea to demo the closet and run pipes down center of house 

 

[wilked]

Whoever suggested it...pocket door on bathroom might not be a bad idea. 

Demo happens tomorrow, framing will follow soon after. Going to have to finalize these ideas quick 

 

[El Floppo]

Everything I've read and been told is no vents. The spray foam completely seals it, no ice dams possible since the insulation factor so high (can't melt/freeze). 

There will be no vents 

Huh. So no risk of Ice dams?

 

[wilked]

Nope

basically you behave two main risks there.

One is 'thaw/freeze' cycle, which creates ice dams (roof alternately freezes and thaws, creating standing water beneath the ice layer and eventually leaking into house). Can't happen here because roof can't warm up (completely sealed R-39 layer). 

Second is trapping moisture at the rafters / roof, causing rot / mold.  Since it is fully sealed, moisture can't get past the foam and get trapped

the only downside I see is you become less 'visible' to a leak on roof, and might not discover it until it is a bigger issue than otherwise. In the end I am fine with the trade off, roof is pretty new and no trees around

 

[lumpy19]

Go with the pocket door, you can always add a real door later if you don't like the pocket but can't do the opposite

 

[Otis]

Picture at the end looks awesome.  Love the ceiling design. Is this photo something you are trying to copy or something you created as the design you are planning?

Looks cool good luck. Only advice I can give has already been given -- run tons of outlets and tons of extra wiring. When things fail or expansion is needed it's a major PIA to open walls. 

 

[jon_mx]

Haven't read everything, but are you trying to tackle all these at once while still living in this house? 

 

[wilked]

Picture at the end looks awesome.  Love the ceiling design. Is this photo something you are trying to copy or something you created as the design you are planning?

Looks cool good luck. Only advice I can give has already been given -- run tons of outlets and tons of extra wiring. When things fail or expansion is needed it's a major PIA to open walls. 

Thanks.  Picture is mostly what we intend to accomplish.  I used www.arcbazar.com , basically it's this thing where you request a design and architects (or wannabe architects) all around the world produce designs.  You pick the top 3 designs, and the purse is split something like 50/35/15%.  I put up $500 purse for this particular design. You can see what I did here

https://www.arcbazar.com/project/publicViewClient/863657112

The 'before' photos give some more idea of what I am working with.  

The design has evolved since this competition (as I said, I was originally thinking dormer.  If the design did anything it was to give me enough ideas to scratch the dormer, which alone is well worth the five hundy, likely saved me $30-50K).  

 

[wilked]

Haven't read everything, but are you trying to tackle all these at once while still living in this house? 

Yes.  The beauty of it is that the 3rd floor (attic) is 'sealed' from the house via an insulated door.  

P5070203-116_mo.jpg

Until I take that door off, one of the last things I will do, I can really isolate the project from our living space

 

[Mr. Ected]

Thanks.  Picture is mostly what we intend to accomplish.  I used www.arcbazar.com , basically it's this thing where you request a design and architects (or wannabe architects) all around the world produce designs.  You pick the top 3 designs, and the purse is split something like 50/35/15%.  I put up $500 purse for this particular design. You can see what I did here

https://www.arcbazar.com/project/publicViewClient/863657112

The 'before' photos give some more idea of what I am working with.  

The design has evolved since this competition (as I said, I was originally thinking dormer.  If the design did anything it was to give me enough ideas to scratch the dormer, which alone is well worth the five hundy, likely saved me $30-50K).  

I get a sign-in with that link.

Yes.  The beauty of it is that the 3rd floor (attic) is 'sealed' from the house via an insulated door.  

P5070203-116_mo.jpg

Until I take that door off, one of the last things I will do, I can really isolate the project from our living space

Have you thought of leaving the door on, which would allow you to remove the door at the top of the stairs into the family room. This would eliminate some of the noise from upstairs.

 

[wilked]

Have you thought of leaving the door on, which would allow you to remove the door at the top of the stairs into the family room. This would eliminate some of the noise from upstairs.

Thought about it.  It's a narrow stairway (30") already, having the door there just adds to it.  I want to make the 3rd floor feel like part of the house vs an apartment upstairs, thus why I am taking it off

 

[El Floppo]

how are you lighting the spaces? recessed in the foam or surface mounted?

 

[El Floppo]

Also, what the hell I need an architect for???

i did spend $500 on arcbazar though, got good ideas there. 

I considered a dormer but that would have doubled the cost. I was going to add a dormer and place the bathroom over it, til I came up with the idea to demo the closet and run pipes down center of house 

Thanks.  Picture is mostly what we intend to accomplish.  I used www.arcbazar.com , basically it's this thing where you request a design and architects (or wannabe architects) all around the world produce designs.  You pick the top 3 designs, and the purse is split something like 50/35/15%.  I put up $500 purse for this particular design. You can see what I did here

https://www.arcbazar.com/project/publicViewClient/863657112

The 'before' photos give some more idea of what I am working with.  

The design has evolved since this competition (as I said, I was originally thinking dormer.  If the design did anything it was to give me enough ideas to scratch the dormer, which alone is well worth the five hundy, likely saved me $30-50K).  

so no architect? just don't want to pay an architect a normal rate, more like it.  oh well.

 

[wilked]

Basically right. I'm an engineer and enjoy this stuff, and don't think I would get a decent return off hiring an architect

on the other hand I have spent > 100 hours planning this, so could have saved that time 

 

[wilked]

how are you lighting the spaces? recessed in the foam or surface mounted?

Wanted recessed but can't give up the insulated space. 

In the original post I have a link to my lighting plans. Basically though, bedroom gets one ceiling flush light. Bathroom gets two recessed lights and two vanity lights. Family room gets two ceiling drop pendants and two wall-mounted sconces 

 

[cstu]

Go with the pocket door, you can always add a real door later if you don't like the pocket but can't do the opposite

Pocket door would work, but I still think it's better to move the door to the family room a few feet to the right and install a regular door in the bathroom that opens against the chimney.  A regular door is preferable to a pocket and moving the family room door wouldn't take usable space from the family room.

 

[El Floppo]

Basically right. I'm an engineer and enitoy this stuff, and don't think I would get a decent return off hiring an architect

on the other hand I have spent > 100 hours planning this, so could have saved that time 

I Was breaking your balls. Small project... and you more than have It In hand.