What's new
Fantasy Football - Footballguys Forums

Welcome to Our Forums. Once you've registered and logged in, you're primed to talk football, among other topics, with the sharpest and most experienced fantasy players on the internet.

Car battery issue, help me diagnose this problem (1 Viewer)

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say go to a mechanic.
Yeah thanks. Hadn't thought of that. However, my mechanic said he doesn't do electrical issues like this. So now what, I go to a dealership and spend oodles of money?
I was hoping someone smart here could point me in the right direction and save me some money.

I'm going to get the car here this evening and do some more digging.

Honestly though, what sort of parasitic drain would 100% kill a battery so fast? Especially when there was non detected? Crazy.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say go to a mechanic.
Yeah thanks. Hadn't thought of that. However, my mechanic said he doesn't do electrical issues like this. So now what, I go to a dealership and spend oodles of money?
I was hoping someone smart here could point me in the right direction and save me some money.

I'm going to get the car here this evening and do some more digging.

Honestly though, what sort of parasitic drain would 100% kill a battery so fast? Especially when there was non detected? Crazy.
Get a new mechanic.

The dealership isn't the only other option. And, dealerships aren't going to charge you that much more and will more likely be able to find and solve the problem. But go ahead and keep buying batteries and wasting time (and money) and not have it fixed to avoid the above. More posts here, too.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say go to a mechanic.
Yeah thanks. Hadn't thought of that. However, my mechanic said he doesn't do electrical issues like this. So now what, I go to a dealership and spend oodles of money?
I was hoping someone smart here could point me in the right direction and save me some money.

I'm going to get the car here this evening and do some more digging.

Honestly though, what sort of parasitic drain would 100% kill a battery so fast? Especially when there was non detected? Crazy.
Get a new mechanic.

The dealership isn't the only other option. And, dealerships aren't going to charge you that much more and will more likely be able to find and solve the problem. But go ahead and keep buying batteries and wasting time (and money) and not have it fixed to avoid the above. More posts here, too.
I bet you're fun at parties.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say go to a mechanic.
Yeah thanks. Hadn't thought of that. However, my mechanic said he doesn't do electrical issues like this. So now what, I go to a dealership and spend oodles of money?
I was hoping someone smart here could point me in the right direction and save me some money.

I'm going to get the car here this evening and do some more digging.

Honestly though, what sort of parasitic drain would 100% kill a battery so fast? Especially when there was non detected? Crazy.
I'm thinking more like a light is being left on somewhere. Like someone mentioned before - glove box light, trunk light....something like that. If you did the parasitic test correctly it would identify that you had a large drain that needed all the fuses checked.

I might try that test again to cover your bases. After you check the obvious stuff mentioned above.

There really is nothing else that can drain it unless you did the parasitic drain test wrong. I'm not a mechanic - this is just what I would do.

Edit to add: as far as I know everything on a car electrically runs through the fuse panels. So if a light isn't being left on and you did the parasitic drain test right, your car is haunted.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say go to a mechanic.
Yeah thanks. Hadn't thought of that. However, my mechanic said he doesn't do electrical issues like this. So now what, I go to a dealership and spend oodles of money?
I was hoping someone smart here could point me in the right direction and save me some money.

I'm going to get the car here this evening and do some more digging.

Honestly though, what sort of parasitic drain would 100% kill a battery so fast? Especially when there was non detected? Crazy.
I'm thinking more like a light is being left on somewhere. Like someone mentioned before - glove box light, trunk light....something like that. If you did the parasitic test correctly it would identify that you had a large drain that needed all the fuses checked.

I might try that test again to cover your bases. After you check the obvious stuff mentioned above.

There really is nothing else that can drain it unless you did the parasitic drain test wrong. I'm not a mechanic - this is just what I would do.

Edit to add: as far as I know everything on a car electrically runs through the fuse panels. So if a light isn't being left on and you did the parasitic drain test right, your car is haunted.
It could be a light perhaps, but man, I have left some lights on many times overnight with no issues. This is a brand new battery, 100% dead overnight. From a light I can't even see somewhere?

My brother in law is an expert mechanic,unfortunately he lives far away and is hard to get a hold of. Mentioned checking if the alternator is warm after sitting a while. If so that would be a problem. Apparently that kind of drain isn't inspected with those alternator tests at autozone.

Can't wait to check some fuses later. Yay.
 
Last edited:
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say go to a mechanic.
I'd buy a new battery
New battery every day. Love it.

It seems like a bad idea but I have another story.

My windshield wiper motor went out one time. So I went down and bought a new one at a Kragen type place. Installed I and still didn't work. Worked all day on trying to figure out why it might not be working. Removed/reinstalled. Checked the entire system. Confirmed power was getting to it. Confirmed the wipers would move manually. Everything. Spent all day with a lot of blood, sweat, and tears. Finally gave up and brought the motor back to Kragen. Turns out they gave me a bad motor. Got a different one. Put it in and it worked fine.

You never think the brand new part you just got would be bad but sometimes it is. Ugh.
 
Ive had that happen before. Long while back, had to get a new alternator. The new alternator ended up being defective.
 
It was the rear windshield wiper drawing a huge amount of power. I unplugged it, meter reading was normal. Fingers crossed it's fixed.
Now I will let my daughter know she is not going to have a rear wiper anymore, cause I'm not replacing that crap.
Seems kind of odd. Should be no power to the wiper motor with the key off.

ETA: I do see some results showing it can drain the battery though: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/az9jl-rear-wiper-motor-not-going-park-draining-battery.html
 
It was the rear windshield wiper drawing a huge amount of power. I unplugged it, meter reading was normal. Fingers crossed it's fixed.
Now I will let my daughter know she is not going to have a rear wiper anymore, cause I'm not replacing that crap.
Seems kind of odd. Should be no power to the wiper motor with the key off.
Yep. Faulty motor I suppose causing a short or whatever.
 
It was the rear windshield wiper drawing a huge amount of power. I unplugged it, meter reading was normal. Fingers crossed it's fixed.
Now I will let my daughter know she is not going to have a rear wiper anymore, cause I'm not replacing that crap.
Seems kind of odd. Should be no power to the wiper motor with the key off.
Yep. Faulty motor I suppose causing a short or whatever.
Just added a link to my reply. It has indeed happened.
 
When I come back with the same problem after the new battery, I expect your mostest of sincerest apologies, groveling, and crow eating. And money. I want money.

We all believe you, but you want everyone to diagnose a second problem before you finished fixing the first problem. Do you understand how incredibly difficult that is?
Thanks for all your condescending help. It was very useful.
I needed a new battery anyway, but it was pretty obvious to me there was another issue going on. Sure enough, there was.
 
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say go to a mechanic.
Yeah thanks. Hadn't thought of that. However, my mechanic said he doesn't do electrical issues like this. So now what, I go to a dealership and spend oodles of money?
I was hoping someone smart here could point me in the right direction and save me some money.

I'm going to get the car here this evening and do some more digging.

Honestly though, what sort of parasitic drain would 100% kill a battery so fast? Especially when there was non detected? Crazy.
Get a new mechanic.

The dealership isn't the only other option. And, dealerships aren't going to charge you that much more and will more likely be able to find and solve the problem. But go ahead and keep buying batteries and wasting time (and money) and not have it fixed to avoid the above. More posts here, too.
Solved the problem without spending the cash at the mechanic. Thanks.
That was the whole point of posting this here, to hopefully figure it out before taking it in. It's not like mechanics are drive thru windows. I had to make an appointment. Now I can cancel it thanks to all your help.....
 
When I come back with the same problem after the new battery, I expect your mostest of sincerest apologies, groveling, and crow eating. And money. I want money.

We all believe you, but you want everyone to diagnose a second problem before you finished fixing the first problem. Do you understand how incredibly difficult that is?
Thanks for all your condescending help. It was very useful.
I needed a new battery anyway, but it was pretty obvious to me there was another issue going on. Sure enough, there was.
You get what you give. Ever wonder why so many people on here respond to you the way they do? Probably not. But just something to consider.

There's lots of threads where people ask for help much like this and it goes just fine.
 
When I come back with the same problem after the new battery, I expect your mostest of sincerest apologies, groveling, and crow eating. And money. I want money.

We all believe you, but you want everyone to diagnose a second problem before you finished fixing the first problem. Do you understand how incredibly difficult that is?
Thanks for all your condescending help. It was very useful.
I needed a new battery anyway, but it was pretty obvious to me there was another issue going on. Sure enough, there was.
You get what you give. Ever wonder why so many people on here respond to you the way they do? Probably not. But just something to consider.

There's lots of threads where people ask for help much like this and it goes just fine.
I think it went just fine. Entertaining and problem solved. What more can I ask for?
 
Glad you figured it out. And you got a new battery also, which was needed. That old battery was near the end of its life.

One less thing to worry about now.
 
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
With all due respect, a lot of us here were telling you to check each fuse. Glad it worked out.
 
Glad you figured it out. And you got a new battery also, which was needed. That old battery was near the end of its life.

One less thing to worry about now.
Yeah the only sucky think is that the new battery was drained down to nothing once. Not good for it's long term health for sure.
 
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
With all due respect, a lot of us here were telling you to check each fuse. Glad it worked out.
I know, and I said that is what I was going to do once I had the car in my possession again. I just got the car here a few hours ago.
 
Glad you figured it out. And you got a new battery also, which was needed. That old battery was near the end of its life.

One less thing to worry about now.
Yeah the only sucky think is that the new battery was drained down to nothing once. Not good for it's long term health for sure.
I'd suggest getting a new battery.
I do have this other electrical issue in my daily driver that I was going to ask about .........
 
Alternator is fine.
I want to identify a problem in case this is something that will keep happening.
As mentioned before the car has sat for 3-4 days in the winter and started no problem. Last night it sat like 14 hours and was 100% dead.

Edit....the car sitting for 3-4 days was in between this happening s few times.

Everything you describe is what happens when a battery dies. Stop making excuses and get a new one. It shouldn't cost more than $150-$200 tops and you will be set for another 5-6 years.
I haven't made any excuses. In fact, I said I am getting a new battery in the original post.
i havent read any of the thread but dollars to donuts it is going to be a faulty rear wiper motor just trust me on this take that to the bank bromigo
 
Last edited:
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
Why did you have a feeling that the rear wiper motor was draining the battery? That wouldn’t even cross my mind as a place to start my search
 
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
Why did you have a feeling that the rear wiper motor was draining the battery? That wouldn’t even cross my mind as a place to start my search
Google was his mechanic
 
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
Why did you have a feeling that the rear wiper motor was draining the battery? That wouldn’t even cross my mind as a place to start my search
Probably because I don't know anything about cars, lack of know-how helped me make a lucky guess.

Actually, the rear wiper stopped working recently. Plus, I had to replace the rear window itself shortly after buying it last year cause the hinges were all corroded and broke, and I couldn't even get them out of the holes on the window. So, 75 bucks at a junk yard and got a new window with the wiper motor already on it.
Between doing that, and the wiper not working, it was just a hunch.
I think I even mentioned the rear wiper somewhere a page or two ago.

Edit...yeah I mentioned it friday
 
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
Why did you have a feeling that the rear wiper motor was draining the battery? That wouldn’t even cross my mind as a place to start my search
Google was his mechanic
Is there something wrong with that??
 
It's interesting since it seems that's a fairly common issue on Escapes. It doesn't correctly sense that the wiper is parked and keeps the motor engaged even with the key off. Motor may feel warm after some time. Something for me to keep in mind since my wife has an old Escape, but haven't had that issue (yet).
 
It was the rear windshield wiper drawing a huge amount of power. I unplugged it, meter reading was normal. Fingers crossed it's fixed.
Now I will let my daughter know she is not going to have a rear wiper anymore, cause I'm not replacing that crap.
Read in another forum that with the rear wiper not working (disconnected) the front wiper spray didn't work. Might want to check that. (probably a coincidence though)
 
Last edited:
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
Why did you have a feeling that the rear wiper motor was draining the battery? That wouldn’t even cross my mind as a place to start my search
Google was his mechanic
Is there something wrong with that??
Nope. Defensive much?
 
It was the rear windshield wiper drawing a huge amount of power. I unplugged it, meter reading was normal. Fingers crossed it's fixed.
Now I will let my daughter know she is not going to have a rear wiper anymore, cause I'm not replacing that crap.
Read in another forum that with the rear wiper not working (disconnected) the front wiper spray didn't work. Might want to check that. (probably a coincidence though)
I had also seen something like that. I thought it was the fuse being out though. Who knows. Yeah, I better check that though.
 
It was the rear windshield wiper drawing a huge amount of power. I unplugged it, meter reading was normal. Fingers crossed it's fixed.
Now I will let my daughter know she is not going to have a rear wiper anymore, cause I'm not replacing that crap.
Read in another forum that with the rear wiper not working (disconnected) the front wiper spray didn't work. Might want to check that. (probably a coincidence though)
I had also seen something like that. I thought it was the fuse being out though. Who knows. Yeah, I better check that though.
I checked the wiring diagram and there is a connection there. https://f01.justanswer.com/xsvectOR...1__and_2012_Escape_rear_wiper_schematics_.pdf

Also this post seems to confirm:

Had this on 2010 Escape. SOLVED! My rear wiper motor was fused, draining my battery. I pulled the fuse. Washer fluid pump still working… A week later I removed the bad rear wiper motor ( on the glass of the hatch), getting ready to replace it the next day. After I unplugged the power to the rear motor, MY WIPER FLUID PUMP WOULD NOT WORK. Today I just now put a new motor back in and WIPER FLUID PUMP WORKS AGAIN. My conclusion. Nothing wrong with pump, but ground for circut must go through the back motor, ( still worked with rear wiper motor fuse out).
 
Yeah if that rear wiper is wiping back to front, that could cause a few issues, especially with the Johnson rod.
 
It was the rear windshield wiper drawing a huge amount of power. I unplugged it, meter reading was normal. Fingers crossed it's fixed.
Now I will let my daughter know she is not going to have a rear wiper anymore, cause I'm not replacing that crap.
Read in another forum that with the rear wiper not working (disconnected) the front wiper spray didn't work. Might want to check that. (probably a coincidence though)
I had also seen something like that. I thought it was the fuse being out though. Who knows. Yeah, I better check that though.
I checked the wiring diagram and there is a connection there. https://f01.justanswer.com/xsvectOR...1__and_2012_Escape_rear_wiper_schematics_.pdf

Also this post seems to confirm:

Had this on 2010 Escape. SOLVED! My rear wiper motor was fused, draining my battery. I pulled the fuse. Washer fluid pump still working… A week later I removed the bad rear wiper motor ( on the glass of the hatch), getting ready to replace it the next day. After I unplugged the power to the rear motor, MY WIPER FLUID PUMP WOULD NOT WORK. Today I just now put a new motor back in and WIPER FLUID PUMP WORKS AGAIN. My conclusion. Nothing wrong with pump, but ground for circut must go through the back motor, ( still worked with rear wiper motor fuse out).
Good thing you posted. Yep, the wiper fluid in the front isn't working, but works when I plug it back in. Well, off to find the right fuse.
Startmycar.com had some good diagrams. Perhaps the manual will as well, if it's even in the car
 
Ok boys, now what? I got a new battery a couple days ago, but just now got a notification (I have the HUM thing by Verizon plugged in) that there is a "rapid decline in battery voltage", the exact same thing that happened before when the battery was dead and would not start.
Never heard of it but why didn't it give you a warning before?

And google returns ton of results that HUM is possibly the problem. You didn't think to tell us of that before? lol


Does Hum drain my car battery when the engine is off?
When your car is off, the Hum OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Reader goes into a low power mode.


maybe its defective

"Anyway, the actual battery voltage despite it reporting it was under 12 volts was actually 12.94 after sitting all day after the Alert and started just fine. Is anybody else having this problem or even use the dang thing? My in-laws insist we both have one for the accident awareness and safety reasons, but winter's a coming and I don't want to find out this little thing is draining my battery and just hasn't killed it yet."

"Hi all, I searched the forums but didn't find anything for this...I have a Hum obdII reader and service from Verizon. It's generation one and I keep getting yellow battery alerts but the voltage isn't actually low. I called Verizon and they told me to have a garage clear the nonexistent low battery code"

:shrug:
It did give several warnings before, and almost every time the battery was dead, especially if we didn't try to start it until a few hours after getting the warning.

Anyway, so last night my daughter drives the car to work, new battery and all. She parks at 9:30pm. At 2:30 in the morning I got an alert of "rapid drop in battery voltage". Same warning the other times when the battery was dead.
I checked the app, it shows 11.36 volts.

Now, fortunately she just texted me and said the car started. Also, usually when this happens I will get another notification that the battery is back to full health.

So, what on earth is causing a brand new battery to have a "rapid decline" in 5 hours when there are no lights on or anything obvious that is drawing power?

I'm really not thinking it's a defective HUM considering the times it has sent me an alert it was accurate considering the battery was totally dead almost every time, and the other times the car was started before more time passed.

How you troubleshoot this is to turn the vehicle off, and pull out the fuses one by one and then do voltage drop tests against the specific fuse plugins.

Then once you find the specific fuse, then you need to research which modules are using that fuse and then replace that specific control module.

I have done this before and someone with minor mechanical skills can pull this off.

This is exactly what my mechanic BIL was instructing me to do earlier, and was pretty much the only useful reply here, so thank you.
Fortunately I didn't have to go through the process of pulling every fuse because I had a feeling to check the rear wiper first, and wouldn't ya know it, that was the problem.
Why did you have a feeling that the rear wiper motor was draining the battery? That wouldn’t even cross my mind as a place to start my search
Google was his mechanic
Is there something wrong with that??
Nope. Defensive much?
Yep.
 
Thanks for the reminder 3C's. I pulled the fuse and plugged the rear wiper cable back in. Front washer fluid works, and the multimeter readings are good.
 
Last summer, my ‘15 focus showed no battery issues at all. Then I parked it and came back a half hour later and nothing. Wouldn’t crank at all. I tried jumping it and same thing. Had it towed or Ford and they couldn’t even get the battery to take a charge. Swapped it out for a new one and presto.

In my experience, car batteries like to die right on the spot, with little to no warning.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top