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Car Market going forward (1 Viewer)

I can install a trailer hitch and wiring on whatever CX90 trim you like for about $600. Same goes for most SUV's.
If you're not in the South Shore area of MA then you could probably find another quality hitch installer in your area.
The wiring kit is literally just plug and play ...although you do need to take the interior apart to get to the socket.
CL3 Trailer Hitch CX90
Trailer Wiring CX90
You can usually add the hitch thru the dealer as well. Sometimes they do it in house ... sometimes they bring it to me.

I can install a hitch and wiring harness no problem. I have done that previously on two other SUV's and I don't need a brake controller, the boat I am towing is only 4k pounds and a SUV will have no problem stopping it.

However, there are some people talking about transmission coolers, which is fairly common with SUV tow packages. Neither of my wife's previous SUV's needed them, but it is pretty normal for your basic unibody suv to need a transmission cooler installed for towing.

All modern vehicles have a transmission cooler. The tow package doesn't add anything to the tranny.
What your link references is an additional "sub" radiator that allows more engine coolant capacity.
The transmission would perform the same with or without the tow package.
Now if your are in 105d Arizona sun, towing 5k lbs uphill for 2 hours with the A/C on full blast, ... yes, there is a good chance the motor will overheat.
Also, any trailer over 3500 lbs should have brakes (it's the law). A 4000lb boat (+800 lb boat trailer?) should have a tandem axle with a hydraulic surge brake system. No brake controller needed.
I wouldn't rely on the suv brakes to stop that load in an emergency.

The limit for brakes in texas is 4,500 pounds, I am easily under that, 1900lb for boat, 450 for engine, 500 for batteries/other, 1000 for trailer = 4,000 pounds give or take.

The brakes on any modern SUV are fine to stop this boat, however making sure the proper cooling system is installed is important.

 
I installed an auxiliary transmission cooler on my 2012 rav4 (4 cylinder) due to towing a ~1,500 pop up camper. Worked great. Keeps the transmission fluid about 20-30 degrees cooler, and wasn’t too hard to install. Would recommend.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.
 
I went and looked at the CX-90 today and liked it. It had buttons/dials for the important stuff similar to how cards did 10 years ago, it seems most manufacturers have learned consumers don't want AC controls on a touch screen.

This would be for my wife, so the next step is to get the dealer to give me a call when they have one it she will like. Then, i will negotiate with every dealer within 500 miles if it progresses that far.

It has a longitudinal mounted engine which makes it easier on the transmission when towing, this is similar to a truck SUV like a tahoe/4runner and is one of the few unibody SUV's to offer it. The AWD system in it is also based on what would more traditionally be a RWD based AWD system.

The problem is my wife's current vehicle is useless for long road trips and we take many long road trips a year. My tacoma only gets 10-12 mpg when i get it up around the speeds i tend to drive in west texas.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
Sure. But anyone buying a 6000lb large SUV with the aerodynamics of a barn door and is thinking about gas mileage is setting themselves up with false expectations.
 
This whole car price meltdown hasn't really materialized. Was hoping to get a decent teen driver, **** is still bananas out there.
I’m seeing hints of it. A few new cars are actually advertising incentives. Mostly on leases. But it’s a start.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
 
Made an offer on a 2024 Tiguan SEL R at 3 Tampa area dealers. Between them, they have 9 of the model I want in gray. Let them fight it out now. :lol:
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
You can definitely come out ahead in your example, just meant people often don't take the gas cost of ownership often into account (plus I just wish these vehicles got much better mileage as that's always been their major issue for me personally.) I've had other brands last well beyond 150K (and some not so much) that get considerably better gas mileage. But then were not really comparing apples and oranges as @dkp993 pointed out, most people needing a big vehicle like that, MPG is not high on the priority list. I'm probably rambling at this point, lord knows most consumers would rather go buy a giant truck or SUV that gets even worse gas mileage and will throw a rod at like 150K like you mentioned but they will have traded it in long before that for their next set of monthly payments.
 
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
You can definitely come out ahead in your example, just meant people often don't take the gas cost of ownership often into account (plus I just wish these vehicles got much better mileage as that's always been their major issue for me personally.) I've had other brands last well beyond 150K (and some not so much) that get considerably better gas mileage. But then were not really comparing apples and oranges as @dkp993 pointed out, most people needing a big vehicle like that, MPG is not high on the priority list. I'm probably rambling at this point, lord knows most consumers would rather go buy a giant truck or SUV that gets even worse gas mileage and will throw a rod at like 150K like you mentioned but they will have traded it in long before that for their next set of monthly payments.

Slightly different, but similar is because i don't keep a vehicle I thought high resale value was the most important part. This is why i went with a tacoma, however it is costing us at least a thousand extra dollars per year in fuel compared to alternatives.
 
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
You can definitely come out ahead in your example, just meant people often don't take the gas cost of ownership often into account (plus I just wish these vehicles got much better mileage as that's always been their major issue for me personally.) I've had other brands last well beyond 150K (and some not so much) that get considerably better gas mileage. But then were not really comparing apples and oranges as @dkp993 pointed out, most people needing a big vehicle like that, MPG is not high on the priority list. I'm probably rambling at this point, lord knows most consumers would rather go buy a giant truck or SUV that gets even worse gas mileage and will throw a rod at like 150K like you mentioned but they will have traded it in long before that for their next set of monthly payments.

Slightly different, but similar is because i don't keep a vehicle I thought high resale value was the most important part. This is why i went with a tacoma, however it is costing us at least a thousand extra dollars per year in fuel compared to alternatives.
I get random people offering to buy my Tacoma fairly often. Once came home with a sticky note on the window with someone saying to call them if I ever am thinking of selling it.
 
Has anyone ever done the buyout option of their lease and then sold the car to get market value? And then use that case to either purchase or begin a new lease?

I could have done it the last time my lease was up, but felt lazy to go through the process. My CX-5 lease will be up in November. It looks like my payoff amount will be $20,000. Looking online I'll probably be able to sell it for $25,000 or $26,000 at least. I could then use half of the amount the get into a new lease and pocket the rest. Is there anything I'm missing here other than to have to purchase the vehicle outright and then go through the process of selling it??
 
Has anyone ever done the buyout option of their lease and then sold the car to get market value? And then use that case to either purchase or begin a new lease?

I could have done it the last time my lease was up, but felt lazy to go through the process. My CX-5 lease will be up in November. It looks like my payoff amount will be $20,000. Looking online I'll probably be able to sell it for $25,000 or $26,000 at least. I could then use half of the amount the get into a new lease and pocket the rest. Is there anything I'm missing here other than to have to purchase the vehicle outright and then go through the process of selling it??
You’ve got it.
 
Has anyone ever done the buyout option of their lease and then sold the car to get market value? And then use that case to either purchase or begin a new lease?

I could have done it the last time my lease was up, but felt lazy to go through the process. My CX-5 lease will be up in November. It looks like my payoff amount will be $20,000. Looking online I'll probably be able to sell it for $25,000 or $26,000 at least. I could then use half of the amount the get into a new lease and pocket the rest. Is there anything I'm missing here other than to have to purchase the vehicle outright and then go through the process of selling it??
You can also bring it to a dealer where you are going to do the new lease and they can give you an offer for it. You won't get as much as private sale, but you're saving tax, time, and hassle. Then you decide if the amount difference is worth it to you.

They can then cut you a check for the equity. I would suggest NOT applying the money to the lease as it's just money lost if something were to happen to the vehicle. So, if the payoff is $20K, and they agree your car is worth $24K, for example, they'll just take the car from you, they'll do the payoff themselves and they keep the car, and they'll write you a check for $4K.
 
Has anyone ever done the buyout option of their lease and then sold the car to get market value? And then use that case to either purchase or begin a new lease?

I could have done it the last time my lease was up, but felt lazy to go through the process. My CX-5 lease will be up in November. It looks like my payoff amount will be $20,000. Looking online I'll probably be able to sell it for $25,000 or $26,000 at least. I could then use half of the amount the get into a new lease and pocket the rest. Is there anything I'm missing here other than to have to purchase the vehicle outright and then go through the process of selling it??
You can also bring it to a dealer where you are going to do the new lease and they can give you an offer for it. You won't get as much as private sale, but you're saving tax, time, and hassle. Then you decide if the amount difference is worth it to you.

They can then cut you a check for the equity. I would suggest NOT applying the money to the lease as it's just money lost if something were to happen to the vehicle. So, if the payoff is $20K, and they agree your car is worth $24K, for example, they'll just take the car from you, they'll do the payoff themselves and they keep the car, and they'll write you a check for $4K.
I did this the last time and made the sales guy "go back to his manager" four times to keep getting what I wanted. I also just did this to help my lady with her Subaru. It's a bit tiring and I get that you have to do it....

I'll probably just do it again, but go in a month before my lease is up playing the card that I don't need to make the decision today and can walk out as leverage knowing their are going to do everything in their power to try and make that sale on the spot.
 
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
You can definitely come out ahead in your example, just meant people often don't take the gas cost of ownership often into account (plus I just wish these vehicles got much better mileage as that's always been their major issue for me personally.) I've had other brands last well beyond 150K (and some not so much) that get considerably better gas mileage. But then were not really comparing apples and oranges as @dkp993 pointed out, most people needing a big vehicle like that, MPG is not high on the priority list. I'm probably rambling at this point, lord knows most consumers would rather go buy a giant truck or SUV that gets even worse gas mileage and will throw a rod at like 150K like you mentioned but they will have traded it in long before that for their next set of monthly payments.

Slightly different, but similar is because i don't keep a vehicle I thought high resale value was the most important part. This is why i went with a tacoma, however it is costing us at least a thousand extra dollars per year in fuel compared to alternatives.
How much is gas where you live?! Is your alternative a Prius?
 
Has anyone ever done the buyout option of their lease and then sold the car to get market value? And then use that case to either purchase or begin a new lease?

I could have done it the last time my lease was up, but felt lazy to go through the process. My CX-5 lease will be up in November. It looks like my payoff amount will be $20,000. Looking online I'll probably be able to sell it for $25,000 or $26,000 at least. I could then use half of the amount the get into a new lease and pocket the rest. Is there anything I'm missing here other than to have to purchase the vehicle outright and then go through the process of selling it??
This is my plan with my 24 Accord.

Maybe I'll keep it, but pretty sure I'll make money on it.
 
Has anyone ever done the buyout option of their lease and then sold the car to get market value? And then use that case to either purchase or begin a new lease?

I could have done it the last time my lease was up, but felt lazy to go through the process. My CX-5 lease will be up in November. It looks like my payoff amount will be $20,000. Looking online I'll probably be able to sell it for $25,000 or $26,000 at least. I could then use half of the amount the get into a new lease and pocket the rest. Is there anything I'm missing here other than to have to purchase the vehicle outright and then go through the process of selling it??

I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
You can definitely come out ahead in your example, just meant people often don't take the gas cost of ownership often into account (plus I just wish these vehicles got much better mileage as that's always been their major issue for me personally.) I've had other brands last well beyond 150K (and some not so much) that get considerably better gas mileage. But then were not really comparing apples and oranges as @dkp993 pointed out, most people needing a big vehicle like that, MPG is not high on the priority list. I'm probably rambling at this point, lord knows most consumers would rather go buy a giant truck or SUV that gets even worse gas mileage and will throw a rod at like 150K like you mentioned but they will have traded it in long before that for their next set of monthly payments.

Slightly different, but similar is because i don't keep a vehicle I thought high resale value was the most important part. This is why i went with a tacoma, however it is costing us at least a thousand extra dollars per year in fuel compared to alternatives.
How much is gas where you live?! Is your alternative a Prius?

I used $3.50 for my analysis and compared the Tacoma to an SUV that averages 21 mpg, which is about what I expect to get.




Edit, sorry for the double quote. On my phone, can't fix.
 
Has anyone ever done the buyout option of their lease and then sold the car to get market value? And then use that case to either purchase or begin a new lease?

I could have done it the last time my lease was up, but felt lazy to go through the process. My CX-5 lease will be up in November. It looks like my payoff amount will be $20,000. Looking online I'll probably be able to sell it for $25,000 or $26,000 at least. I could then use half of the amount the get into a new lease and pocket the rest. Is there anything I'm missing here other than to have to purchase the vehicle outright and then go through the process of selling it??

I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
You can definitely come out ahead in your example, just meant people often don't take the gas cost of ownership often into account (plus I just wish these vehicles got much better mileage as that's always been their major issue for me personally.) I've had other brands last well beyond 150K (and some not so much) that get considerably better gas mileage. But then were not really comparing apples and oranges as @dkp993 pointed out, most people needing a big vehicle like that, MPG is not high on the priority list. I'm probably rambling at this point, lord knows most consumers would rather go buy a giant truck or SUV that gets even worse gas mileage and will throw a rod at like 150K like you mentioned but they will have traded it in long before that for their next set of monthly payments.

Slightly different, but similar is because i don't keep a vehicle I thought high resale value was the most important part. This is why i went with a tacoma, however it is costing us at least a thousand extra dollars per year in fuel compared to alternatives.
How much is gas where you live?! Is your alternative a Prius?

I used $3.50 for my analysis and compared the Tacoma to an SUV that averages 21 mpg, which is about what I expect to get.




Edit, sorry for the double quote. On my phone, can't fix.
My RAV gets around 23 mpg. What are you getting from your Tacoma?
 
My RAV gets around 23 mpg. What are you getting from your Tacoma?

I have a lead foot, and we take multiple long road trips from houston into the rockies every year, gaining tons of elevation with speed limits at 80mph(i go 90), typically the mpg sucks and does not come close to advertised numbers.

I average around 12 mpg on the highways on these road trips and 15 mpg at all other times. My wife does have a pilot, so i have a rough estimate on how much mpg i will get with an suv. Her pilot is FWD, with a low tow limit, no xm radio, no adaptive cruise, no lane depature, etc. Stuff i need when driving for 15 hours across desolate parts of the country.


I estimate a fuel savings of 2,000 dollars per year to be honest.
Code:
	mile/year	$/Gal	mile/gal	$/mile	$/year
Tacoma highway	10000	3.5	12	$0.29	$2,916.67
SUV highway	10000	3.5	21	$0.17	$1,666.67
					
					
Tacoma city	10000	3.5	15	$0.23	$2,333.33
SUV city	10000	3.5	24	$0.15	$1,458.33
					
				Tacoma total	$5,250.00
				SUV total	$3,125.00
 
My RAV gets around 23 mpg. What are you getting from your Tacoma?

I have a lead foot, and we take multiple long road trips from houston into the rockies every year, gaining tons of elevation with speed limits at 80mph(i go 90), typically the mpg sucks and does not come close to advertised numbers.

I average around 12 mpg on the highways on these road trips and 15 mpg at all other times. My wife does have a pilot, so i have a rough estimate on how much mpg i will get with an suv. Her pilot is FWD, with a low tow limit, no xm radio, no adaptive cruise, no lane depature, etc. Stuff i need when driving for 15 hours across desolate parts of the country.


I estimate a fuel savings of 2,000 dollars per year to be honest.
Code:
    mile/year    $/Gal    mile/gal    $/mile    $/year
Tacoma highway    10000    3.5    12    $0.29    $2,916.67
SUV highway    10000    3.5    21    $0.17    $1,666.67
                   
                   
Tacoma city    10000    3.5    15    $0.23    $2,333.33
SUV city    10000    3.5    24    $0.15    $1,458.33
                   
                Tacoma total    $5,250.00
                SUV total    $3,125.00
Man, 12 mpg seems horribly low. I assume you have a V6? My late FIL had a 4 banger Tacoma and I drove it to Atlanta and back and was over 20 highway with a truck bed full of hand me down baby gear.
 
My RAV gets around 23 mpg. What are you getting from your Tacoma?

I have a lead foot, and we take multiple long road trips from houston into the rockies every year, gaining tons of elevation with speed limits at 80mph(i go 90), typically the mpg sucks and does not come close to advertised numbers.

I average around 12 mpg on the highways on these road trips and 15 mpg at all other times. My wife does have a pilot, so i have a rough estimate on how much mpg i will get with an suv. Her pilot is FWD, with a low tow limit, no xm radio, no adaptive cruise, no lane depature, etc. Stuff i need when driving for 15 hours across desolate parts of the country.


I estimate a fuel savings of 2,000 dollars per year to be honest.
Code:
    mile/year    $/Gal    mile/gal    $/mile    $/year
Tacoma highway    10000    3.5    12    $0.29    $2,916.67
SUV highway    10000    3.5    21    $0.17    $1,666.67
              
              
Tacoma city    10000    3.5    15    $0.23    $2,333.33
SUV city    10000    3.5    24    $0.15    $1,458.33
              
                Tacoma total    $5,250.00
                SUV total    $3,125.00
Man, 12 mpg seems horribly low. I assume you have a V6? My late FIL had a 4 banger Tacoma and I drove it to Atlanta and back and was over 20 highway with a truck bed full of hand me down baby gear.


Maybe it was 14, I know it is bad at 85+, you have me second guessing myself as I have not actually tracked the mileage since the first road trip.


Mine is the 4x4 sport with the stupid fake turbo hood scoop, I wanted the 4x4 off-road which has the slanted hood for better aerodynamics/visibility but they did not have it.

Besides fuel economy, the other problem with the hood design is it reflects light at many funny angles into the cabin. It is bad driving into sunset/sunrise like you expect, however it is also horrendous if you are driving south on any sunny day.

It's given me so many headaches on road trips the last few years. That is how I convinced my wife to let me sell the truck, she hates that too.
 
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My RAV gets around 23 mpg. What are you getting from your Tacoma?

I have a lead foot, and we take multiple long road trips from houston into the rockies every year, gaining tons of elevation with speed limits at 80mph(i go 90), typically the mpg sucks and does not come close to advertised numbers.

I average around 12 mpg on the highways on these road trips and 15 mpg at all other times. My wife does have a pilot, so i have a rough estimate on how much mpg i will get with an suv. Her pilot is FWD, with a low tow limit, no xm radio, no adaptive cruise, no lane depature, etc. Stuff i need when driving for 15 hours across desolate parts of the country.


I estimate a fuel savings of 2,000 dollars per year to be honest.
Code:
    mile/year    $/Gal    mile/gal    $/mile    $/year
Tacoma highway    10000    3.5    12    $0.29    $2,916.67
SUV highway    10000    3.5    21    $0.17    $1,666.67
             
             
Tacoma city    10000    3.5    15    $0.23    $2,333.33
SUV city    10000    3.5    24    $0.15    $1,458.33
             
                Tacoma total    $5,250.00
                SUV total    $3,125.00
Man, 12 mpg seems horribly low. I assume you have a V6? My late FIL had a 4 banger Tacoma and I drove it to Atlanta and back and was over 20 highway with a truck bed full of hand me down baby gear.


Maybe it was 14, I know it is bad at 85+, you have me second guessing myself as I have not actually tracked the mileage since the first road trip.


Mine is the 4x4 sport with the stupid fake turbo hood scoop, I wanted the 4x4 off-road which has the slanted hood for better aerodynamics/visibility but they did not have it.

Besides fuel economy, the other problem with the hood design is it reflects light at many funny angles into the cabin. It is bad driving into sunset/sunrise like you expect, however it is also horrendous if you are driving south on any sunny day.

It's given me so many headaches on road trips the last few years. That is how I convinced my wife to let me sell the truck, she hates that too.
Yeah, my household just swapped a Chevy Tahoe for a Subaru crosstrek, and at 1,000 miles a month I estimated the gas savings to be around $1k a year, maybe, at $3.50 a gallon.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
How much does one drive a year to get a vehicle to routinely accrue 300K miles?

Granted, I live on an island, but may not have driven that much in my 36 years with a license.
 
There is a ridiculous amount of inventory out there and dealerships are making it seem like cars are scarce. Lol. So dumb. Can’t wait to see how much inventory they’re going to be stuck with when the 2025 models roll in.
There is still a ways to go to get back to pre-Covid levels, but we are well on our way. Spring 2019 industry had about 4.1M units in stock/transit. Fall 2021 the number dropped below 1M units. Currently a bit over 2.6M. So around a 50 day supply of inventory at current sales rates.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
How much does one drive a year to get a vehicle to routinely accrue 300K miles?

Granted, I live on an island, but may not have driven that much in my 36 years with a license.
He buys them used, generally with around 150-200k already on them. They apparently don’t depreciate as much after about 150k miles on them.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
How much does one drive a year to get a vehicle to routinely accrue 300K miles?

Granted, I live on an island, but may not have driven that much in my 36 years with a license.
He buys them used, generally with around 150-200k already on them. They apparently don’t depreciate as much after about 150k miles on them.
Can’t imagine buying such high mileage vehicles, unless I was really into fixing things.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
How much does one drive a year to get a vehicle to routinely accrue 300K miles?

Granted, I live on an island, but may not have driven that much in my 36 years with a license.
I had a span of my career (8+ yrs) where I was driving 30k+ a year. Still do an easy 20k.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
How much does one drive a year to get a vehicle to routinely accrue 300K miles?

Granted, I live on an island, but may not have driven that much in my 36 years with a license.
 
From 2016-2020 I drove 200 miles per day, 5 days a week. I averaged 40k per year in just commuting for work. Also had two sons in travel soccer and a daughter in BMX. I drove a lot.
 
Go on and get the 4-runner.

20 years and 400,000 miles later, you can still sell it for $30,000.
You’re thinking Land Cruiser- the other Toyota SUV.
You’re both correct. While LC’s are the kings of long term reliability, 4 Runners are just a step below. Both are tanks that hold their values very well.
It’s a Toyota/Lexus thing. My little RAV4 has been amazing. 2012 model year, purchased used in 2015 with a shade under 50k miles for $14k. About to roll 190k miles, and the only thing it’s needed has been a water pump (which I did myself). I could likely get $8k for it today, 9 years and 140k miles later.
No doubt. Currently own a 16 Highlander and 16 Lexus GS450h. Wife’s Highlander has over 100k and drives like new. Her car before that was a Lexus ES350 that we traded in with 240k on the clock. Car was rock solid still and the only reason we let it go was we wanted an SUV.

But the LC’s are truly another level above that. They are designed with a 20yr expected life (most Toyota are built to 10yr standards). They are purposely over built to last forever.

Cost of ownership is often obscured as these things get absolutely **** gas mileage. Even the new hybrid versions are barely breaking 20 combined mpg. And I say this as a Tacoma owner that’s at 260k miles and 23 years old. I love that truck but I fully recognize the gas mileage is terrible and I have a used commuter car I use for more daily driving and save the Tacoma for hauling and moving stuff, etc.
I’d argue that, and you just made my point for me. Your truck has 260k miles. Would you rather have a car that gets better mileage but only lasts 150k miles? Just like my 2012 rav4 with 190k miles that’s not really needed a thing (other than oil changes, brakes, tires and a water pump). My BIL loves land cruisers (literally having one shipped from Africa as it apparently just became legal here in the States), and routinely gets them over 300k miles.
How much does one drive a year to get a vehicle to routinely accrue 300K miles?

Granted, I live on an island, but may not have driven that much in my 36 years with a license.
He buys them used, generally with around 150-200k already on them. They apparently don’t depreciate as much after about 150k miles on them.
Can’t imagine buying such high mileage vehicles, unless I was really into fixing things.
I mean little stuff will need fixing/tinkering, but he enjoys it. He’s got a Miata that he’s totally rebuilt currently. That said, I think the most involved fix he’s had to do was brake lines - but on a car with ~12” of ground clearance it wasn’t that bad. The V8s they put in them can quite literally last forever.
 
Hey any advice on a pre-purchase inspection for a used car? I'm looking at a 2016 Durango, and I called a service place close by to that dealer I'd be buying from. They do multi point inspections for like 190. It sounds like they are just going through a checklist pretty much visually. Is this even worth my time and money? should I be asking for something else specifically?
 
Hey any advice on a pre-purchase inspection for a used car? I'm looking at a 2016 Durango, and I called a service place close by to that dealer I'd be buying from. They do multi point inspections for like 190. It sounds like they are just going through a checklist pretty much visually. Is this even worth my time and money? should I be asking for something else specifically?
You can't do much more than go through a visual checklist unfortunately. Our dealership does them quite often for people when they are looking somewhere else. You would however be surprised with how many things we find, especially if they are looking at one from a small used car lot. There is usually a reason the vehicle is a lot "cheaper" than what we are selling a similar one for.
 

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