Car Market going forward (1 Viewer)

[Brownsfan]

As far as gap insurance goes it is about 10x cheaper to get it through your auto insurer than it is to get it from the dealer.

 

[stbugs]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.
2. AutoTrader gives you a free AutoCheck report that seemed to cover everything that VE report did.
3. They said they’d pay me back for the VE report.
4. googling that site barely came back with anything but I did find this government warning about this scam.
5. I told the person I’d discount the price if they had to have that report and that was the goodbye.

I had never heard of this scam but my spidey senses went off when they didn’t care to negotiate and insisted on that report. Oh well, just wanted to warn folks because obviously it was a scam attempt.

Well son of a *****. Two buyers, two look alike vehicle history report sites. They put in some work but they are reading from a script. I’m willing to pay full price and I’ll reimburse you for the report. I just noticed that AutoTrader had a little warning about not buying vehicle reports when you open up the chat. Hopefully, some real buyers come around and these scammers stop bothering me.

 

[Psychopav]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.
2. AutoTrader gives you a free AutoCheck report that seemed to cover everything that VE report did.
3. They said they’d pay me back for the VE report.
4. googling that site barely came back with anything but I did find this government warning about this scam.
5. I told the person I’d discount the price if they had to have that report and that was the goodbye.

I had never heard of this scam but my spidey senses went off when they didn’t care to negotiate and insisted on that report. Oh well, just wanted to warn folks because obviously it was a scam attempt.

Well son of a *****. Two buyers, two look alike vehicle history report sites. They put in some work but they are reading from a script. I’m willing to pay full price and I’ll reimburse you for the report. I just noticed that AutoTrader had a little warning about not buying vehicle reports when you open up the chat. Hopefully, some real buyers come around and these scammers stop bothering me.

My son recently bought a used car. He said Autotrader is no longer reliable for private sales, he used FB Marketplace.

 

[stbugs]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.
2. AutoTrader gives you a free AutoCheck report that seemed to cover everything that VE report did.
3. They said they’d pay me back for the VE report.
4. googling that site barely came back with anything but I did find this government warning about this scam.
5. I told the person I’d discount the price if they had to have that report and that was the goodbye.

I had never heard of this scam but my spidey senses went off when they didn’t care to negotiate and insisted on that report. Oh well, just wanted to warn folks because obviously it was a scam attempt.

Well son of a *****. Two buyers, two look alike vehicle history report sites. They put in some work but they are reading from a script. I’m willing to pay full price and I’ll reimburse you for the report. I just noticed that AutoTrader had a little warning about not buying vehicle reports when you open up the chat. Hopefully, some real buyers come around and these scammers stop bothering me.

My son recently bought a used car. He said Autotrader is no longer reliable for private sales, he used FB Marketplace.

I’ll try it out. It’s ridiculous so far. They make you fill out a ton of stuff so it’s easy to tell I’m legit but if there’s no real buyers, what’s the point. I was hoping to use it so I wouldn’t have to handle the title transfer/worry about payment method. It’s my son’s car so he’s a couple hours away in terms of the title. I’ll put it on both and see what happens.

 

[Harry Frogfish]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.

I would've stopped right there, literally, and moved on. Nobody says or does that with a used car. And they did so without actually looking at it? Dead-giveaway, scam.

Wait, I take it back. I would've stopped when they first asked you to buy that report (anything). Done.

 

[stbugs]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.

I would've stopped right there, literally, and moved on. Nobody says or does that with a used car. And they did so without actually looking at it? Dead-giveaway, scam.

Wait, I take it back. I would've stopped when they first asked you to buy that report (anything). Done.

Yep, that was the immediate red flag. I’ve sold cars before, but honestly not in a while because with 3 sons, hand me downs happened. I hadn’t ever heard of the vehicle history report scam because those were barely around but that I’ll pay full price was like a banner waving in front of me. I decided to try and figure out what this other web site was and if it was a scam.

Honestly, it’s a pretty smooth scam (web site wasn’t bad) that I could see people falling for and the 2nd scammer had some other tactics. Seems like they used my zip code to find a nearby town to start discussing test drives. Problem was that they then jumped down the pay full price and you have to buy this report and I’ll pay you back. I was planning to meet the guy for a test drive because that part was normal. I’m just glad he dove down the scam script so I didn’t waste my time.

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

 

[fruity pebbles]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

 

[odin33]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

Sorry to hear that. Had a 2002 Civic last me about 13 years (electrical issues), used honda pilot that made it 14 years (body mounts rusting out but still ran great), Odyssey currently at 11 (very light use <60k, but starting to have issues, transmission)

Hondas are one of three brands that I'll buy because I drive em until they die. Used to be just them or Toyota, but this forum has opened my eyes to a subaru, but man some of them are ugly.

 

[DA RAIDERS]

Just hit 100k on my 2016 civic. Debating on whether or not to get the 100k service. $2500 I think at the stealership. No issues other than some AC recalls

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

Sorry to hear that. Had a 2002 Civic last me about 13 years (electrical issues), used honda pilot that made it 14 years (body mounts rusting out but still ran great), Odyssey currently at 11 (very light use <60k, but starting to have issues, transmission)

Hondas are one of three brands that I'll buy because I drive em until they die. Used to be just them or Toyota, but this forum has opened my eyes to a subaru, but man some of them are ugly.

Had an okay run with a high mileage '04 Civic that won me over enough to give a lower mileage lease return a go. This is really the first WTF repair to be fair. Of all the old, high mileage cars that have circulated in my family, a key not being able to turn the ignition is a new one for me.

"Drive it until it dies" has just been amended to "....or is stolen."

 

[odin33]

I’ve got the itch to get a new car. Currently driving a 17 Camry with about 98k. Use to put 85 miles+ a day on it but work is now <10 miles away so what I expected to be 120-140 at this point and ready to hand down to my daughter didn’t happen. Figure I’ll keep it as mine for a couple years and when my youngest turns 16 she gets her sisters car and oldest gets mine.

Really hoping both the used and new market calm down a touch as the current prices of both seem insane.

Would love to get a tundra ( we need at least one awd/ 4wd vehicle) but 70-80k and a 600+ car payment ain’t happening.

Anyone have experience with the ridgeline? From everything I’ve read it comes in dead last in almost every single category (power, towing, capacity,etc), but it is a Honda and my one experience with Toyota (current Camry) has been very meh. Can get a deal on an f150 (family discount) but those seems to be very much “fix or repair daily” or “first on race day”

 

[stbugs]

I’ve got the itch to get a new car. Currently driving a 17 Camry with about 98k. Use to put 85 miles+ a day on it but work is now <10 miles away so what I expected to be 120-140 at this point and ready to hand down to my daughter didn’t happen. Figure I’ll keep it as mine for a couple years and when my youngest turns 16 she gets her sisters car and oldest gets mine.

Really hoping both the used and new market calm down a touch as the current prices of both seem insane.

Would love to get a tundra ( we need at least one awd/ 4wd vehicle) but 70-80k and a 600+ car payment ain’t happening.

Anyone have experience with the ridgeline? From everything I’ve read it comes in dead last in almost every single category (power, towing, capacity,etc), but it is a Honda and my one experience with Toyota (current Camry) has been very meh. Can get a deal on an f150 (family discount) but those seems to be very much “fix or repair daily” or “first on race day”

Unless you are planning to plunk down a huge down payment, a 70-80k vehicle and a $600 payment aren’t in the same ballpark. Even with a 6 year loan at 5.64%, a $75k loan (don’t forget all the taxes and stuff) is over $1200 a month.

I don’t think I’ll be getting myself another car for a bit as my youngest may be spending 2026-2027 year abroad, but I did like the 2022-2023 Tundra prices. They have that engine recall where they replace the engine so that makes it risky and/or a great deal. We’ll just keep our 2012 Highlander Limited one more year and get my next car in 2 or so years.

 

[culdeus]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

My mom had this problem on a Volvo. Got a 900 quote to replace the cylinder. She did what you proposed for a bit then locked her only key in the car.

Locksmith came to mess with it somehow, and got the thing unstuck and it worked another two years. Like I think he legit sprayed some graphite spray or something in it and ran a lock pick thing around inside and it worked fine.

 

[culdeus]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

My mom had this problem on a Volvo. Got a 900 quote to replace the cylinder. She did what you proposed for a bit then locked her only key in the car.

Locksmith came to mess with it somehow, and got the thing unstuck and it worked another two years. Like I think he legit sprayed some graphite spray or something in it and ran a lock pick thing around inside and it worked fine.

While this was happening she used one of those bar things on the steering wheel. Super classy.

 

[The Z Machine]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

Can you repair it yourself? Or get a private mechanic to do the work?

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

Can you repair it yourself? Or get a private mechanic to do the work?

As an update, the service manager at Honda stepped up.

I picked my car up last night and found that I'm now completely unable to turn the ignition / re-establish the key after 3 hours (previously, always able to get it within 60-90 minutes). Had to pay the diagnostics and did a couple of minor repairs, so shelled out $250 to get a usable car back in a disabled state. That part was expected because they obviously had to remove the key to look at it and provide the quote. What wasn't appreciated was that they left my disabled vehicle outside with the windows down with rain in the forecast. Raided their garbage can to do my best to seal off the open windows, gave up on the ignition and Ubered home.

Called this morning to complain about the estimate and windows left in down position. Honda service manager stepped up. Wasn't happy with the $500-$1000 ballpark estimate I received that prompted me to bring it in. Credited the $180 diagnostics charge and is going to do the repair for $1200. It will entail using the existing set of keys for the door, and a new key for the replaced lock/ignition cylinder, but I can live with that to move on from this for what's essentially an additional $1020.

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

My mom had this problem on a Volvo. Got a 900 quote to replace the cylinder. She did what you proposed for a bit then locked her only key in the car.

Locksmith came to mess with it somehow, and got the thing unstuck and it worked another two years. Like I think he legit sprayed some graphite spray or something in it and ran a lock pick thing around inside and it worked fine.

Interesting. I had a dry lock lubricant that I was using that seemed like it was helping to get the thing to eventually accept the key, but it might have just been a placebo. Successfully turning the key always felt random and miraculous. I probably should have invested in a pick set last night to see what effect that would have had. Probably a case of one little mechanism being stuck and I don't buy Honda's claim that both sets of keys were so horrifically mangled that they were the source of the faulty cylinder. I guess I won't get a chance to play with it now.

 

[Uncle Leo]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

 

[DA RAIDERS]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

I always go CPO under 10k miles. I’ve bought my last 3 cars this way

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

Save yourself 15k and get a brand new Nissan Frontier.

If he’s a new driver - I’d recommend used as he will inevitably bump it into something.

 

[Uncle Leo]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

Save yourself 15k and get a brand new Nissan Frontier.

If he’s a new driver - I’d recommend used as he will inevitably bump it into something.

He loves Tacomas. Has not asked for one or for that matter anything. That’s why I want to try to get him one.

 

[Terminalxylem]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

Save yourself 15k and get a brand new Nissan Frontier.

If he’s a new driver - I’d recommend used as he will inevitably bump it into something.

Yikes - that’s not even top 10 in the American made index!

 

[FarFromHome]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

Save yourself 15k and get a brand new Nissan Frontier.

If he’s a new driver - I’d recommend used as he will inevitably bump it into something.

He loves Tacomas. Has not asked for one or for that matter anything. That’s why I want to try to get him one.

A nice Tacoma is the perfect truck in my opinion. Here in the south it's about these huge trucks. Give me a clean Tacoma and I'm set.

 

[culdeus]

My daughter college swapped to no car. I did a back flip into some single malt.

 

[GenX fan]

Just bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe SUV. Of course I had to finance the $49K cost. I'll probably be dead before it's completely paid off.

This car is pretty cool with all the new safety features it has though. It will send the driver an alert if a head-on crash is impending. Thanks, car! The car's computer can then take control of the car and do what it can to minimize the impact of any crash. Cool beans in my opinion.

 

[Senor Schmutzig]

Just bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe SUV. Of course I had to finance the $49K cost. I'll probably be dead before it's completely paid off.

This car is pretty cool with all the new safety features it has though. It will send the driver an alert if a head-on crash is impending. Thanks, car! The car's computer can then take control of the car and do what it can to minimize the impact of any crash. Cool beans in my opinion.

Just be careful with the sensitivity. I had rented one of these for a couple weeks and two or three times, the car slammed on the brakes automatically even though I was paying attention and could’ve easily stopped on my own. It stopped so suddenly that the person behind me almost ran into the back of my car and honked because they thought I intentionally slammed on my brakes

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Just bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe SUV. Of course I had to finance the $49K cost. I'll probably be dead before it's completely paid off.

This car is pretty cool with all the new safety features it has though. It will send the driver an alert if a head-on crash is impending. Thanks, car! The car's computer can then take control of the car and do what it can to minimize the impact of any crash. Cool beans in my opinion.

Just be careful with the sensitivity. I had rented one of these for a couple weeks and two or three times, the car slammed on the brakes automatically even though I was paying attention and could’ve easily stopped on my own. It stopped so suddenly that the person behind me almost ran into the back of my car and honked because they thought I intentionally slammed on my brakes

I have to turn it off because of this and when it fights you veering into another lane (to avoid others). I find it to be more dangerous than helpful.