Car Market going forward (2 Viewers)

[Brownsfan]

As far as gap insurance goes it is about 10x cheaper to get it through your auto insurer than it is to get it from the dealer.

 

[stbugs]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.
2. AutoTrader gives you a free AutoCheck report that seemed to cover everything that VE report did.
3. They said they’d pay me back for the VE report.
4. googling that site barely came back with anything but I did find this government warning about this scam.
5. I told the person I’d discount the price if they had to have that report and that was the goodbye.

I had never heard of this scam but my spidey senses went off when they didn’t care to negotiate and insisted on that report. Oh well, just wanted to warn folks because obviously it was a scam attempt.

Well son of a *****. Two buyers, two look alike vehicle history report sites. They put in some work but they are reading from a script. I’m willing to pay full price and I’ll reimburse you for the report. I just noticed that AutoTrader had a little warning about not buying vehicle reports when you open up the chat. Hopefully, some real buyers come around and these scammers stop bothering me.

 

[Psychopav]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.
2. AutoTrader gives you a free AutoCheck report that seemed to cover everything that VE report did.
3. They said they’d pay me back for the VE report.
4. googling that site barely came back with anything but I did find this government warning about this scam.
5. I told the person I’d discount the price if they had to have that report and that was the goodbye.

I had never heard of this scam but my spidey senses went off when they didn’t care to negotiate and insisted on that report. Oh well, just wanted to warn folks because obviously it was a scam attempt.

Well son of a *****. Two buyers, two look alike vehicle history report sites. They put in some work but they are reading from a script. I’m willing to pay full price and I’ll reimburse you for the report. I just noticed that AutoTrader had a little warning about not buying vehicle reports when you open up the chat. Hopefully, some real buyers come around and these scammers stop bothering me.

My son recently bought a used car. He said Autotrader is no longer reliable for private sales, he used FB Marketplace.

 

[stbugs]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.
2. AutoTrader gives you a free AutoCheck report that seemed to cover everything that VE report did.
3. They said they’d pay me back for the VE report.
4. googling that site barely came back with anything but I did find this government warning about this scam.
5. I told the person I’d discount the price if they had to have that report and that was the goodbye.

I had never heard of this scam but my spidey senses went off when they didn’t care to negotiate and insisted on that report. Oh well, just wanted to warn folks because obviously it was a scam attempt.

Well son of a *****. Two buyers, two look alike vehicle history report sites. They put in some work but they are reading from a script. I’m willing to pay full price and I’ll reimburse you for the report. I just noticed that AutoTrader had a little warning about not buying vehicle reports when you open up the chat. Hopefully, some real buyers come around and these scammers stop bothering me.

My son recently bought a used car. He said Autotrader is no longer reliable for private sales, he used FB Marketplace.

I’ll try it out. It’s ridiculous so far. They make you fill out a ton of stuff so it’s easy to tell I’m legit but if there’s no real buyers, what’s the point. I was hoping to use it so I wouldn’t have to handle the title transfer/worry about payment method. It’s my son’s car so he’s a couple hours away in terms of the title. I’ll put it on both and see what happens.

 

[Harry Frogfish]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.

I would've stopped right there, literally, and moved on. Nobody says or does that with a used car. And they did so without actually looking at it? Dead-giveaway, scam.

Wait, I take it back. I would've stopped when they first asked you to buy that report (anything). Done.

 

[stbugs]

Welp, hit my first scam selling my oldest’s old CR-V. I just put it on AutoTrader last night and had a message from a “verified” buyer and they wanted me to buy a VE report when they then said was a vosengine.com report. Here’s the key points that threw up red flags:

1. They said they liked the car and would pay full price.

I would've stopped right there, literally, and moved on. Nobody says or does that with a used car. And they did so without actually looking at it? Dead-giveaway, scam.

Wait, I take it back. I would've stopped when they first asked you to buy that report (anything). Done.

Yep, that was the immediate red flag. I’ve sold cars before, but honestly not in a while because with 3 sons, hand me downs happened. I hadn’t ever heard of the vehicle history report scam because those were barely around but that I’ll pay full price was like a banner waving in front of me. I decided to try and figure out what this other web site was and if it was a scam.

Honestly, it’s a pretty smooth scam (web site wasn’t bad) that I could see people falling for and the 2nd scammer had some other tactics. Seems like they used my zip code to find a nearby town to start discussing test drives. Problem was that they then jumped down the pay full price and you have to buy this report and I’ll pay you back. I was planning to meet the guy for a test drive because that part was normal. I’m just glad he dove down the scam script so I didn’t waste my time.

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

 

[fruity pebbles]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

 

[odin33]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

Sorry to hear that. Had a 2002 Civic last me about 13 years (electrical issues), used honda pilot that made it 14 years (body mounts rusting out but still ran great), Odyssey currently at 11 (very light use <60k, but starting to have issues, transmission)

Hondas are one of three brands that I'll buy because I drive em until they die. Used to be just them or Toyota, but this forum has opened my eyes to a subaru, but man some of them are ugly.

 

[DA RAIDERS]

Just hit 100k on my 2016 civic. Debating on whether or not to get the 100k service. $2500 I think at the stealership. No issues other than some AC recalls

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

Sorry to hear that. Had a 2002 Civic last me about 13 years (electrical issues), used honda pilot that made it 14 years (body mounts rusting out but still ran great), Odyssey currently at 11 (very light use <60k, but starting to have issues, transmission)

Hondas are one of three brands that I'll buy because I drive em until they die. Used to be just them or Toyota, but this forum has opened my eyes to a subaru, but man some of them are ugly.

Had an okay run with a high mileage '04 Civic that won me over enough to give a lower mileage lease return a go. This is really the first WTF repair to be fair. Of all the old, high mileage cars that have circulated in my family, a key not being able to turn the ignition is a new one for me.

"Drive it until it dies" has just been amended to "....or is stolen."

 

[odin33]

I’ve got the itch to get a new car. Currently driving a 17 Camry with about 98k. Use to put 85 miles+ a day on it but work is now <10 miles away so what I expected to be 120-140 at this point and ready to hand down to my daughter didn’t happen. Figure I’ll keep it as mine for a couple years and when my youngest turns 16 she gets her sisters car and oldest gets mine.

Really hoping both the used and new market calm down a touch as the current prices of both seem insane.

Would love to get a tundra ( we need at least one awd/ 4wd vehicle) but 70-80k and a 600+ car payment ain’t happening.

Anyone have experience with the ridgeline? From everything I’ve read it comes in dead last in almost every single category (power, towing, capacity,etc), but it is a Honda and my one experience with Toyota (current Camry) has been very meh. Can get a deal on an f150 (family discount) but those seems to be very much “fix or repair daily” or “first on race day”

 

[stbugs]

I’ve got the itch to get a new car. Currently driving a 17 Camry with about 98k. Use to put 85 miles+ a day on it but work is now <10 miles away so what I expected to be 120-140 at this point and ready to hand down to my daughter didn’t happen. Figure I’ll keep it as mine for a couple years and when my youngest turns 16 she gets her sisters car and oldest gets mine.

Really hoping both the used and new market calm down a touch as the current prices of both seem insane.

Would love to get a tundra ( we need at least one awd/ 4wd vehicle) but 70-80k and a 600+ car payment ain’t happening.

Anyone have experience with the ridgeline? From everything I’ve read it comes in dead last in almost every single category (power, towing, capacity,etc), but it is a Honda and my one experience with Toyota (current Camry) has been very meh. Can get a deal on an f150 (family discount) but those seems to be very much “fix or repair daily” or “first on race day”

Unless you are planning to plunk down a huge down payment, a 70-80k vehicle and a $600 payment aren’t in the same ballpark. Even with a 6 year loan at 5.64%, a $75k loan (don’t forget all the taxes and stuff) is over $1200 a month.

I don’t think I’ll be getting myself another car for a bit as my youngest may be spending 2026-2027 year abroad, but I did like the 2022-2023 Tundra prices. They have that engine recall where they replace the engine so that makes it risky and/or a great deal. We’ll just keep our 2012 Highlander Limited one more year and get my next car in 2 or so years.

 

[culdeus]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

My mom had this problem on a Volvo. Got a 900 quote to replace the cylinder. She did what you proposed for a bit then locked her only key in the car.

Locksmith came to mess with it somehow, and got the thing unstuck and it worked another two years. Like I think he legit sprayed some graphite spray or something in it and ran a lock pick thing around inside and it worked fine.

 

[culdeus]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

My mom had this problem on a Volvo. Got a 900 quote to replace the cylinder. She did what you proposed for a bit then locked her only key in the car.

Locksmith came to mess with it somehow, and got the thing unstuck and it worked another two years. Like I think he legit sprayed some graphite spray or something in it and ran a lock pick thing around inside and it worked fine.

While this was happening she used one of those bar things on the steering wheel. Super classy.

 

[The Z Machine]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

Can you repair it yourself? Or get a private mechanic to do the work?

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

Can you repair it yourself? Or get a private mechanic to do the work?

As an update, the service manager at Honda stepped up.

I picked my car up last night and found that I'm now completely unable to turn the ignition / re-establish the key after 3 hours (previously, always able to get it within 60-90 minutes). Had to pay the diagnostics and did a couple of minor repairs, so shelled out $250 to get a usable car back in a disabled state. That part was expected because they obviously had to remove the key to look at it and provide the quote. What wasn't appreciated was that they left my disabled vehicle outside with the windows down with rain in the forecast. Raided their garbage can to do my best to seal off the open windows, gave up on the ignition and Ubered home.

Called this morning to complain about the estimate and windows left in down position. Honda service manager stepped up. Wasn't happy with the $500-$1000 ballpark estimate I received that prompted me to bring it in. Credited the $180 diagnostics charge and is going to do the repair for $1200. It will entail using the existing set of keys for the door, and a new key for the replaced lock/ignition cylinder, but I can live with that to move on from this for what's essentially an additional $1020.

 

[sushinsky4tsar]

Got a $1750 quote from the dealer to repair a faulty ignition cylinder on a 2015 Honda Civic with 111K miles. Key gets stuck in the lock position when inserted, but otherwise works fine as long as you don't remove it from the ignition. Shelled out $800 last year on power windows.

So much for that legendary Honda reliability. Any picks for smaller/mid-sized SUVs with components that won't fall apart at the 10-year mark despite light usage post-Covid?

You hit 10 years and things can go at any time in any car. But I get it, cars are so expensive to fix now unless you are doing the work yourself. I think the Mazdas are the best value for the money. CX-30 or 50.

More annoyed that the Honda dealership gave me a $500-$1000 (so $1K) "likely worst case" estimate before I went in. For $1750 (easily 25%+ of what it's worth), I'll just leave the key in the ignition, manually lock it with the other one, and just not leave anything important inside.

The kind of Mickey Mouse arrangement I can get behind at 150K, but disappointing to be there this early. Really not sure how both keys are getting worn to the point of failure with the lock cylinder when one has been locked in a drawer for 5 years and the car gets driven every other day.

You got cars, you got problems.

My mom had this problem on a Volvo. Got a 900 quote to replace the cylinder. She did what you proposed for a bit then locked her only key in the car.

Locksmith came to mess with it somehow, and got the thing unstuck and it worked another two years. Like I think he legit sprayed some graphite spray or something in it and ran a lock pick thing around inside and it worked fine.

Interesting. I had a dry lock lubricant that I was using that seemed like it was helping to get the thing to eventually accept the key, but it might have just been a placebo. Successfully turning the key always felt random and miraculous. I probably should have invested in a pick set last night to see what effect that would have had. Probably a case of one little mechanism being stuck and I don't buy Honda's claim that both sets of keys were so horrifically mangled that they were the source of the faulty cylinder. I guess I won't get a chance to play with it now.

 

[Uncle Leo]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

 

[DA RAIDERS]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

I always go CPO under 10k miles. I’ve bought my last 3 cars this way

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

Save yourself 15k and get a brand new Nissan Frontier.

If he’s a new driver - I’d recommend used as he will inevitably bump it into something.

 

[Uncle Leo]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

Save yourself 15k and get a brand new Nissan Frontier.

If he’s a new driver - I’d recommend used as he will inevitably bump it into something.

He loves Tacomas. Has not asked for one or for that matter anything. That’s why I want to try to get him one.

 

[Terminalxylem]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

Save yourself 15k and get a brand new Nissan Frontier.

If he’s a new driver - I’d recommend used as he will inevitably bump it into something.

Yikes - that’s not even top 10 in the American made index!

 

[FarFromHome]

Looking for a Toyota Tacoma for my kid. Go for a new one or a certified used one. Toyota dealer or Carmax type if used?

Save yourself 15k and get a brand new Nissan Frontier.

If he’s a new driver - I’d recommend used as he will inevitably bump it into something.

He loves Tacomas. Has not asked for one or for that matter anything. That’s why I want to try to get him one.

A nice Tacoma is the perfect truck in my opinion. Here in the south it's about these huge trucks. Give me a clean Tacoma and I'm set.

 

[culdeus]

My daughter college swapped to no car. I did a back flip into some single malt.

 

[GenX fan]

Just bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe SUV. Of course I had to finance the $49K cost. I'll probably be dead before it's completely paid off.

This car is pretty cool with all the new safety features it has though. It will send the driver an alert if a head-on crash is impending. Thanks, car! The car's computer can then take control of the car and do what it can to minimize the impact of any crash. Cool beans in my opinion.

 

[Senor Schmutzig]

Just bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe SUV. Of course I had to finance the $49K cost. I'll probably be dead before it's completely paid off.

This car is pretty cool with all the new safety features it has though. It will send the driver an alert if a head-on crash is impending. Thanks, car! The car's computer can then take control of the car and do what it can to minimize the impact of any crash. Cool beans in my opinion.

Just be careful with the sensitivity. I had rented one of these for a couple weeks and two or three times, the car slammed on the brakes automatically even though I was paying attention and could’ve easily stopped on my own. It stopped so suddenly that the person behind me almost ran into the back of my car and honked because they thought I intentionally slammed on my brakes

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Just bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe SUV. Of course I had to finance the $49K cost. I'll probably be dead before it's completely paid off.

This car is pretty cool with all the new safety features it has though. It will send the driver an alert if a head-on crash is impending. Thanks, car! The car's computer can then take control of the car and do what it can to minimize the impact of any crash. Cool beans in my opinion.

Just be careful with the sensitivity. I had rented one of these for a couple weeks and two or three times, the car slammed on the brakes automatically even though I was paying attention and could’ve easily stopped on my own. It stopped so suddenly that the person behind me almost ran into the back of my car and honked because they thought I intentionally slammed on my brakes

I have to turn it off because of this and when it fights you veering into another lane (to avoid others). I find it to be more dangerous than helpful.

 

[FarFromHome]

Earlier in this thread I discussed my 2025 Toyota RAV4 purchase journey. Still love the purchase a few months later. Thought I was done for awhile, but my daughters transmission went out and the repairs will cost 6500. Smh. It's a 10000 dollar car. Smh. Gonna eat it I think. Are there places that buy cars in decent shape but need new transmission? Maybe a junk yard? Gonna give her our other car and buy a used truck for myself. Absolutely hate buying cars.

Looking at the 30000 price range. Been looking at the newer Ford Rangers and a little older Tacomas. I know what I'm getting with Tacomas. Any 2021 or newer Ranger owners here?

 

[the moops]

Thought I was done for awhile, but my daughters transmission went out and the repairs will cost 6500. Smh. It's a 10000 dollar car.

Look for a rebuilt transmission. Probably can find one in the 2K-3K range

 

[FarFromHome]

Thought I was done for awhile, but my daughters transmission went out and the repairs will cost 6500. Smh. It's a 10000 dollar car.

Look for a rebuilt transmission. Probably can find one in the 2K-3K range

2011 honda accord. Got another quote of 6000 installed. Just seems silly to me. I'll call around tomorrow again.

 

[Harry Frogfish]

The record Ford recalls of late could be a really dumb SNL skit. Wait, could we involve some irony attached?

So what are people thinking, a half a century later or so? Go Lions / Raptors, you rule!

 

[Payne]

Just bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe SUV. Of course I had to finance the $49K cost. I'll probably be dead before it's completely paid off.

This car is pretty cool with all the new safety features it has though. It will send the driver an alert if a head-on crash is impending. Thanks, car! The car's computer can then take control of the car and do what it can to minimize the impact of any crash. Cool beans in my opinion.

Just be careful with the sensitivity. I had rented one of these for a couple weeks and two or three times, the car slammed on the brakes automatically even though I was paying attention and could’ve easily stopped on my own. It stopped so suddenly that the person behind me almost ran into the back of my car and honked because they thought I intentionally slammed on my brakes

The one thing I don't care for on my Telluride is when you're doing 80 with the adaptive cruise on and the car decides to brake because a car merged 14 miles in front of you doing 75. Other than that, love adaptive cruise control.

 

[stbugs]

Just bought a new Hyundai Santa Fe SUV. Of course I had to finance the $49K cost. I'll probably be dead before it's completely paid off.

This car is pretty cool with all the new safety features it has though. It will send the driver an alert if a head-on crash is impending. Thanks, car! The car's computer can then take control of the car and do what it can to minimize the impact of any crash. Cool beans in my opinion.

I’m looking to get my son a 2024 Tuscon Limited because it seems like there is a big discount in a 2 year old version (most born on dates of summer 2023). Only thing missing is the 10 year/100k powertrain but he’s not going to put a ton of miles on it in the next four years at college. He and I combined for about 10k on my car in the past 16 months and it was primarily his for work, school and practices. Prices for a fully loaded AWD Limited are about $24-26k with 20-30k miles.

Good to hear about the sensitivity issues for safety so we can test them out.

 

[FarFromHome]

Spent the day looking at trucks. I can't say enough how much I hate car shopping. Smh. Never goes smoothly.

 

[FarFromHome]

Headed out again today. Gonna look at these two. Stupid car shopping. Smh

2021 Toyota Tacoma 37000 miles.
2020 Ford Ranger XL 27000 miles.

 

[shadrap]

Daughter in Denver looking to buy new Toyota Highlander. 2 months ago she plunked down $500 deposit on one they had coming in about 2 months. Vehicle is here. Any chance she can negotiate the price now? She did not specifically order it, she basically has first dibs on it with the deposit.
Any help or advice???
thanks people!

 

[FarFromHome]

Daughter in Denver looking to buy new Toyota Highlander. 2 months ago she plunked down $500 deposit on one they had coming in about 2 months. Vehicle is here. Any chance she can negotiate the price now? She did not specifically order it, she basically has first dibs on it with the deposit.
Any help or advice???
thanks people!

I think it's been 4 months or so. We also put 500 down to hold a car on way to dealership. Brand new RAV4. There was zero negotiationing on the price of the vehicle. Id bet if I pulled my hold within an hour they would have it sold or on hold again. Now. I did manage to wiggle a bit on my trade in. I always felt brand new vehicles prices are locked.

 

[FarFromHome]

Headed out again today. Gonna look at these two. Stupid car shopping. Smh

2021 Toyota Tacoma 37000 miles.
2020 Ford Ranger XL 27000 miles.

Ended up buying the 2020 Ford Ranger with low miles. Able to get 800 bucks knocked off. Been just over a week and I love it. These southern men and this idea you need a huge truck is not my thing. Trucks aren't supposed to have 4 doors. Ha ha

 

[CletiusMaximus]

Interesting data in the Car Dealership Guy's newsletter:

An Edmunds Q2 data report reveals that one in four new vehicle trade-ins are underwater, a four-year high for the industry—with many upside-down car loans deep in the red.

• 26.6% of trade-ins toward new-car purchases had negative equity, up from 26.1% in Q1 and 23.9% in Q2 2024—the highest share recorded by Edmunds since Q1 2021.
• The average amount owed on upside-down loans was $6,754, a slight drop from Q1 2025's $6,880—but up from Q2 2024's $6,255.
• 32.6% of underwater trade-ins had between $5,000 and $10,000 in negative equity, compared to 31.9% in Q1 2025 and 30.2% in Q2 2024.

 

[FarFromHome]

Interesting data in the Car Dealership Guy's newsletter:

An Edmunds Q2 data report reveals that one in four new vehicle trade-ins are underwater, a four-year high for the industry—with many upside-down car loans deep in the red.

• 26.6% of trade-ins toward new-car purchases had negative equity, up from 26.1% in Q1 and 23.9% in Q2 2024—the highest share recorded by Edmunds since Q1 2021.
• The average amount owed on upside-down loans was $6,754, a slight drop from Q1 2025's $6,880—but up from Q2 2024's $6,255.
• 32.6% of underwater trade-ins had between $5,000 and $10,000 in negative equity, compared to 31.9% in Q1 2025 and 30.2% in Q2 2024.

That is interesting. For me. Makes zero sense financially to trade a vehicle in that actually adds to my new car loan.

 

[CletiusMaximus]

Interesting data in the Car Dealership Guy's newsletter:

An Edmunds Q2 data report reveals that one in four new vehicle trade-ins are underwater, a four-year high for the industry—with many upside-down car loans deep in the red.

• 26.6% of trade-ins toward new-car purchases had negative equity, up from 26.1% in Q1 and 23.9% in Q2 2024—the highest share recorded by Edmunds since Q1 2021.
• The average amount owed on upside-down loans was $6,754, a slight drop from Q1 2025's $6,880—but up from Q2 2024's $6,255.
• 32.6% of underwater trade-ins had between $5,000 and $10,000 in negative equity, compared to 31.9% in Q1 2025 and 30.2% in Q2 2024.

That is interesting. For me. Makes zero sense financially to trade a vehicle in that actually adds to my new car loan.

the newsletter noted that monthly new car payments now average $915 - in part due to consumers rolling the debt over into the new purchase

 

[pollardsvision]

Interesting data in the Car Dealership Guy's newsletter:

An Edmunds Q2 data report reveals that one in four new vehicle trade-ins are underwater, a four-year high for the industry—with many upside-down car loans deep in the red.

• 26.6% of trade-ins toward new-car purchases had negative equity, up from 26.1% in Q1 and 23.9% in Q2 2024—the highest share recorded by Edmunds since Q1 2021.
• The average amount owed on upside-down loans was $6,754, a slight drop from Q1 2025's $6,880—but up from Q2 2024's $6,255.
• 32.6% of underwater trade-ins had between $5,000 and $10,000 in negative equity, compared to 31.9% in Q1 2025 and 30.2% in Q2 2024.

Main reason I started this thread was wondering what was going to happen with the tidal wave of underwater loans and high car prices that aren't going to budge.

Still doesn't seem to be an end in sight to this madness.

We stopped buying affordable cars for so long that manufacturers are never making them again (for the US market). And why would they. They know there really are no bounds to the stupid financial decisions we will make.

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Daughter in Denver looking to buy new Toyota Highlander. 2 months ago she plunked down $500 deposit on one they had coming in about 2 months. Vehicle is here. Any chance she can negotiate the price now? She did not specifically order it, she basically has first dibs on it with the deposit.
Any help or advice???
thanks people!

always felt brand new vehicles prices are locked.

Hell no. That’s the worst part. Dealing with their pretend lies.

1-Find the car you want (exact trim model)
2- Find out the cheapest out the door price usually checking Reddit or Autotrader or website websites like that
3- Email every dealer in your area what you want and tell them the price you’re willing to pay.
4- wait.

Any preferences you’re looking for such as vehicle color they will use against you and you’ll pay a little extra for.

I purchased the past four or five cars this way and I’ve yet to go into a dealer until it’s time to sign.

If I recall the last car I bought for my daughter was listed at 38,000. I told the dealer that the most I would pay was 31,000. They countered with 32,000.

It stayed like that for a week and only because I was going out of town for a trip I the manager to explain to him that we were $1000 apart.

“Let’s just meet in the middle and I’ll pay the 500 and you pay 500 and get the deal done.” Signed the papers and walked out.

Total time was about 5 weeks.
Total time at the dealer was 1 hour.

 

[Nugget]

July auto industry still looking to be pretty hot. I was expecting more of a pullback from a tariff pull ahead. Curious to see where EV sales come in as some of the lease deals are stupid low. Q4 could suffer, but right now August and September look to be pretty solid.

 

[Ministry of Pain]

July auto industry still looking to be pretty hot. I was expecting more of a pullback from a tariff pull ahead. Curious to see where EV sales come in as some of the lease deals are stupid low. Q4 could suffer, but right now August and September look to be pretty solid.

GDP was 3% but i'm guessing many companies pre bought inventory when POTUS was announcing steep tariff hikes
He did one today on Canada from 25 to 35%

I thought I read/heard that EV sales are not as red hot as some think, lot of people still prefer to pull up at the pump
I live in a community that should have a lot more charging stations

 

[belljr]

Daughter in Denver looking to buy new Toyota Highlander. 2 months ago she plunked down $500 deposit on one they had coming in about 2 months. Vehicle is here. Any chance she can negotiate the price now? She did not specifically order it, she basically has first dibs on it with the deposit.
Any help or advice???
thanks people!

always felt brand new vehicles prices are locked.

Hell no. That’s the worst part. Dealing with their pretend lies.

1-Find the car you want (exact trim model)
2- Find out the cheapest out the door price usually checking Reddit or Autotrader or website websites like that
3- Email every dealer in your area what you want and tell them the price you’re willing to pay.
4- wait.

Any preferences you’re looking for such as vehicle color they will use against you and you’ll pay a little extra for.

I purchased the past four or five cars this way and I’ve yet to go into a dealer until it’s time to sign.

If I recall the last car I bought for my daughter was listed at 38,000. I told the dealer that the most I would pay was 31,000. They countered with 33,000.

It stayed like that for a week and only because I was going out of town for a trip I the manager to explain to him that we were $1000 apart.

“Let’s just meet in the middle and I’ll pay the 500 and you pay 500 and get the deal done.” Signed the papers and walked out.

Total time was about 5 weeks.
Total time at the dealer was 1 hour.

Don't you at least go look at the cars

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Daughter in Denver looking to buy new Toyota Highlander. 2 months ago she plunked down $500 deposit on one they had coming in about 2 months. Vehicle is here. Any chance she can negotiate the price now? She did not specifically order it, she basically has first dibs on it with the deposit.
Any help or advice???
thanks people!

always felt brand new vehicles prices are locked.

Hell no. That’s the worst part. Dealing with their pretend lies.

1-Find the car you want (exact trim model)
2- Find out the cheapest out the door price usually checking Reddit or Autotrader or website websites like that
3- Email every dealer in your area what you want and tell them the price you’re willing to pay.
4- wait.

Any preferences you’re looking for such as vehicle color they will use against you and you’ll pay a little extra for.

I purchased the past four or five cars this way and I’ve yet to go into a dealer until it’s time to sign.

If I recall the last car I bought for my daughter was listed at 38,000. I told the dealer that the most I would pay was 31,000. They countered with 33,000.

It stayed like that for a week and only because I was going out of town for a trip I the manager to explain to him that we were $1000 apart.

“Let’s just meet in the middle and I’ll pay the 500 and you pay 500 and get the deal done.” Signed the papers and walked out.

Total time was about 5 weeks.
Total time at the dealer was 1 hour.

Don't you at least go look at the cars

Yes - I forgot to say that If we aren’t sure of what we want we’ll usually go to a carmax so we can look at a ton of different cars. We’ve been fortunate to buy new cars lately but I have bought cars at carmax and would so again. (Sold them a few cars as well.)

I will also take it for a test drive while they get the paperwork ready.

 

[the moops]

the newsletter noted that monthly new car payments now average $915 - in part due to consumers rolling the debt over into the new purchase

Good god people are dumb.