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DSLR Camera Guys (1 Viewer)

SanDisk cards are generally regarded as top of the line for your standard DSLR consumer.
Thanks. Ordering now. Just adding that book that you talked about. Need to find that post
David Busch's book? That thing is a freaking brick, but from what I understand, it will cover pretty much everything you need or want to know about your D90.
yeah that is it. 5 things in my cart

1. camera+18-200

2. Lowepro slingshot 200

3. Nikon rechargeable battery

4. 16GB Scandisk card

5. Dave Busch Nikon D90 Guide.

After tax and shipping= $1713

Plus 6 months to pay it off with Bill me later

 
Shooting in RAW on my D90, I got about 700 pictures on my 8GB SDHC card (I went with class 10 on read/write speed). I also brought a 4GB card as a back-up (with a slower read/write speed).
What does shooting in Raw mean
RAW image formatRAW files for Nikon DSLRs are .nef files. You'll need to download Picassa (free) or use Photoshop or something similar to view the files. They are about 10-11MB each in size.
In general, what are the pros/cons for shooting in RAW?
Benefits

Nearly all digital cameras can process the image from the sensor into a JPEG file using settings for white balance, color saturation, contrast, and sharpness that are either selected automatically or entered by the photographer before taking the picture. Cameras that produce raw files save these settings in the file, but defer the processing. This results in an extra step for the photographer, so raw is normally only used when additional computer processing is intended. However, raw has numerous advantages over JPEG such as:

* Higher image quality. Because all the calculations (such as applying gamma correction, demosaicing, white balance, brightness, contrast, etc...) used to generate pixel values (in RGB format for most images) are performed in one step on the base data, the resultant pixel values will be more accurate and exhibit less posterization.

* Bypassing of undesired steps in the camera's processing, including sharpening and noise reduction

* JPEG images are typically saved using a lossy compression format (though a lossless JPEG compression is now available). Raw formats are typically either uncompressed or use lossless compression, so the maximum amount of image detail is always kept within the raw file.

* Finer control. Raw conversion software allows users to manipulate more parameters (such as lightness, white balance, hue, saturation, etc...) and do so with greater variability. For example, the white point can be set to any value, not just discrete preset values like "daylight" or "incandescent". As well, the user can typically see a preview while adjusting these parameters.

* Camera raw files have 12 or 14 bits of intensity information, not the gamma-compressed 8 bits stored in JPEG files (and typically stored in processed TIFF files); since the data is not yet rendered and clipped to a color space gamut, more precision may be available in highlights, shadows, and saturated colors.

* The color space can be set to whatever is desired.

* Different demosaicing algorithms can be used, not just the one coded into the camera.

* The contents of raw files include more information, and potentially higher quality, than the converted results, in which the rendering parameters are fixed, the color gamut is clipped, and there may be quantization and compression artifacts.

* Large transformations of the data, such as increasing the exposure of a dramatically under-exposed photo, result in less visible artifacts when done from raw data than when done from already rendered image files. Raw data leave more scope for both corrections and artistic manipulations, without resulting in images with visible flaws such as posterization.

[edit] Drawbacks

* Camera raw files are typically 2–6 times larger than JPEG files.[13] While use of raw formats avoids the compression artifacts inherent in JPEG, fewer images can fit on a given memory card.

* It takes longer for the camera to write raw image files to the card, since they are larger, so fewer pictures can be taken in quick succession (affecting the ability to shoot, for example, a sports sequence).

* Most raw formats do not use compression or implement light lossless data compression to reduce the size of the files without affecting image quality. But some others use lossy data compression where quantization and filtering is performed on the image data.[14][15] Many recent cameras let photographers choose between no compression, lossless compression or lossy compression for their raw images.

* The standard raw image format (ISO 12234-2, TIFF/EP) is not widely accepted. DNG, the potential candidate for a new standard format, has not been adopted by many major camera companies. (See "Standardization" section). Numerous different raw formats are currently in use and new raw formats keep appearing, while others are abandoned.[16]

* Because of the lack of widespread adoption of a standard raw format, more specialized software may be required to open raw files than for standardized formats like JPEG or TIFF. Software developers have to frequently update their products to support the raw formats of the latest cameras but open source implementations like dcraw make it easier.

* The time taken in the image workflow is an important factor when choosing between raw and ready-to-use image formats. With modern photo editing software the additional time needed to process raw images has been greatly reduced but it still requires an extra step in workflow.
 
Did you ever consider leaviing the DSLR behind for the Disney trip? I just bought an xsi a couple months ago and will be heading to Disney this fall. I'm debating leaving it behind. My last trip to disney I took a good point and shoot and was able to get all the pics I needed. I'm debating the whether lugging my camera all over the park is worth it when I can carry a small P&S. I know it would come in handy at Animal Kingdom.
There is certainly an argument to be made here, particularly if you don't want to carry something heavy on your back. That said, there are trade-offs, even if you set aside the image quality of the photographs themselves (which can range from significant to downright negligible). Having spent 6 days in all four parks with scores of parents using all sorts of different cameras, I can confidently say that I can take pictures with my DSLR significantly faster than 95% of people with P&S cameras. With a DSLR you can zoom and focus in half the time of a point and shoot, and you can rip off 3-4 pictures in a second. this makes picture taking way more efficient, and you'll end up with more good shots with far less headache. If you store your camera in a backpack that you have to take off your back to access the camera, however (i.e., no side access), most or all of your efficiency gain will be eliminated.
This is exactly the same advice I would give. If you plan on taking any kid pics with characters at Disney, the zero shutter-lag is critical. It is very nice to click off 5-6 pics and then decide on the keepers back in the hotel room.
 
:X

Just completed order.

Sorry for all of my questions. I appreciate all the help

And mad propers to JoJo for hooking me up with that link.

Now I am sure I will have 8 million more questions when I get the camera.

 
Did you ever consider leaviing the DSLR behind for the Disney trip? I just bought an xsi a couple months ago and will be heading to Disney this fall. I'm debating leaving it behind. My last trip to disney I took a good point and shoot and was able to get all the pics I needed. I'm debating the whether lugging my camera all over the park is worth it when I can carry a small P&S. I know it would come in handy at Animal Kingdom.
This is the whole reason that I bought a DSLR...to take on trips and capture family moments. My wife will man the PnS and video
 
SanDisk cards are generally regarded as top of the line for your standard DSLR consumer.
Sandisk and Kingston are the best names for memory cards.My 40D takes CF cards, but most are now goiing to SD cards.

Costco has 8GB Sandisk Ultra II cards for 39.00 all the time...GREAT deal

I always shoot RAW, so I like having a few large format cards. I now carry 40GB of cards in my bag.

 
SanDisk cards are generally regarded as top of the line for your standard DSLR consumer.
Sandisk and Kingston are the best names for memory cards.My 40D takes CF cards, but most are now goiing to SD cards.

Costco has 8GB Sandisk Ultra II cards for 39.00 all the time...GREAT deal

I always shoot RAW, so I like having a few large format cards. I now carry 40GB of cards in my bag.
Make sure you carry at least 2-3 cards in case there is a problem with one.I also switch cards everyday even if they are not full for the same reason. I do not want to lose all pics because of corrupted data.

 
SanDisk cards are generally regarded as top of the line for your standard DSLR consumer.
Sandisk and Kingston are the best names for memory cards.My 40D takes CF cards, but most are now goiing to SD cards.

Costco has 8GB Sandisk Ultra II cards for 39.00 all the time...GREAT deal

I always shoot RAW, so I like having a few large format cards. I now carry 40GB of cards in my bag.
Make sure you carry at least 2-3 cards in case there is a problem with one.I also switch cards everyday even if they are not full for the same reason. I do not want to lose all pics because of corrupted data.
I have three 8GB cards, and four 4GB cards, and rotate them daily on a trip. (all Ultra II)

 
SanDisk cards are generally regarded as top of the line for your standard DSLR consumer.
Sandisk and Kingston are the best names for memory cards.My 40D takes CF cards, but most are now goiing to SD cards.

Costco has 8GB Sandisk Ultra II cards for 39.00 all the time...GREAT deal

I always shoot RAW, so I like having a few large format cards. I now carry 40GB of cards in my bag.
Amazon gas 8gb Kingston sdhc's for $16.99. They're class 4 but gave worked great with my dslr and P&S shooting videov& stills. The 16gb is around 30
 
:lmao:

Just checked the tracking info and it was sent out for delivery at 4:51am today. Should have it by the time I get home. I actually feel like taking a half day

ETA: Bummer- Just read I need to sign for it. Between me not being home and the snow that I never shoveled off the walkway, looks like I will need to pick it up from UPS.

 
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:(Just checked the tracking info and it was sent out for delivery at 4:51am today. Should have it by the time I get home. I actually feel like taking a half dayETA: Bummer- Just read I need to sign for it. Between me not being home and the snow that I never shoveled off the walkway, looks like I will need to pick it up from UPS.
This is why I always have my goodies shipped to the office. Plus whatever carrier they use to ship, if it's going to a business it will require a signature. That way nobody ever makes off with my swag. :yes:
 
Just took the camera out for my first test drive

WOW do I have no idea what I am doing. Pictures look great but trying to get fancy with the blurriness in the backround is not working so great.

The camera is awesome though. I cant wait to unleash its potential.

Funny thing about the book by Busch. He says he does not like the 18-200 lens but instead uses the 18-105 stock lens which everyone said was not great.

 
Just took the camera out for my first test driveWOW do I have no idea what I am doing. Pictures look great but trying to get fancy with the blurriness in the backround is not working so great.The camera is awesome though. I cant wait to unleash its potential.Funny thing about the book by Busch. He says he does not like the 18-200 lens but instead uses the 18-105 stock lens which everyone said was not great.
To blur the backround, shoot wide open (2.8. 4, 5.6) and leave some space behind the subject if possible
 
Just took the camera out for my first test driveWOW do I have no idea what I am doing. Pictures look great but trying to get fancy with the blurriness in the backround is not working so great.The camera is awesome though. I cant wait to unleash its potential.Funny thing about the book by Busch. He says he does not like the 18-200 lens but instead uses the 18-105 stock lens which everyone said was not great.
To blur the backround, shoot wide open (2.8. 4, 5.6) and leave some space behind the subject if possible
Also be sure that you are relatively close to the subject so that your lens is not focused at infinity.
 
FYI when buying a bag... looked at the Slingshot at Best Buy but their price was $83, then I went to costco.com and got it for $69.

 
In 2 weeks I can give you a review of how 2 lenses did at Disney.The 18-55 IS (Canon XSI) and the 55-250 IS.Got the new bag loaded up.Spare battery and "Understanding Exposure" will be here Wednesday (something to read at night in the hotel when Im not dead to the world).
Alrighty...Was nice having both lenses...but the 18-200 would have been great. Mainly for in the shows (Lion King and Nemo) we were close enough where the 55-250 would not have gotten the full stage...but the 18-55 could not get great close up shots. Thankfully my father and I were on the same page and I was taking wide shots (at least of Nemo, was holding a sleepy 2 year old for Lion King) and he had his XSI with the 55-250 on it to get the array of shots. Same with fireworks...would have been cool to have the wider range. Dad took most of the shots that night with the 55-250 as I was again holding a child (not sleepy this time, just did not want to be in the stroller anymore).As for the bag....well, the Tamrac worked well getting the camera in and out without taking the pack off...and held a ton of stuff. The downside is it did get heavy and I knew it would.The Slingshot would have been a great bag and will be my next purchase for trips where I don't have to carry a bunch of other stuff (snacks, ponchos, diapers)Thankfully the backpack is very padded and comfortable and did not kill me too much.Ive got 900 pictures to go through between my camera, my dad's and my step moms. I posted 2 in the Disney thread (one of a hot Pocahontas). Nothing special though.Some very good shots of the Nemo show and my dad got some great ones of the fireworks at the Magic Kingdom.
 
FYI when buying a bag... looked at the Slingshot at Best Buy but their price was $83, then I went to costco.com and got it for $69.
My Slingshot was delivered Friday. It's going to be a nice bag. Forgot to mention the Costco $69 price also includes two accessories; an extra bag that can hold a point and shoot camera and a water bottle holder. Both attach to the straps on the Slingshot bag.
 
I know there have been some book recommendations, but I just got a book that I thought I'd throw out there. It was a freebie when I upgraded my photo software.

It's the National Geographic Ultimate Field Guide to Photography.

If you know someone who is just getting into photography, this would be a very helpful book. Starts with a chapter on point & shoot cameras, moves to the basics of digital photography, moves on to advanced techniques, the digital darkroom, how to make better prints, scanning, archiving, and gives some ideas for photo projects. In the back is a list of photography magazines and online journals, photo book publishers, a calendar of photo events, a list of workshops, grants awards & contests, and online archives & communities.

It's also filled with some great photographs.

 
Back with a follow up question. I've gotten my camera in and have been snapping away and gotten some pretty decent shots thus far. I ended up taking lessons from a coworker who does professional work on the side. I got myself a Crumpler 6MDH carrying case so now we're all set for the road as well.

Now I'm looking into what I'd like my next lens to be apart from my kit lens (18-55 Canon IS). I'm likely going to buy a 50 1.8 IS for portrait work and since you really can't beat the price for a prime lens like that which will get a lot of usage.

What I'm most concerned with now is the zoom lens. There are so many options out there that'll make your head spin. The more I read, the more confused I get. With me I know it'll ultimately be a decision that comes down to price vs. usage. For me, I know I'm not ready to spend thousands to get L glass since this is still an infancy hobby. That being said, I don't want to buy a useless lens that'll never get used since it doesn't do what I want or need it to do.

The coworker recommended selling the kit lens and getting the 18-200 Canon to give myself the most versatility and see where my common ranges are so that I can later go buy prime lenses or lenses more within the ranges I find I'm using. For me, the zoom lens will largely be used for pet photography when my dog's at the dog park. I don't know how much I'll get away with using one at sporting events, but it wouldn't be out of the question.

That being said, what are some zoom lenses you'd recommend I consider that are cheap enough for an amateur but will produce solid enough results that I won't pull my hair out?

 
Back with a follow up question. I've gotten my camera in and have been snapping away and gotten some pretty decent shots thus far. I ended up taking lessons from a coworker who does professional work on the side. I got myself a Crumpler 6MDH carrying case so now we're all set for the road as well.Now I'm looking into what I'd like my next lens to be apart from my kit lens (18-55 Canon IS). I'm likely going to buy a 50 1.8 IS for portrait work and since you really can't beat the price for a prime lens like that which will get a lot of usage.What I'm most concerned with now is the zoom lens. There are so many options out there that'll make your head spin. The more I read, the more confused I get. With me I know it'll ultimately be a decision that comes down to price vs. usage. For me, I know I'm not ready to spend thousands to get L glass since this is still an infancy hobby. That being said, I don't want to buy a useless lens that'll never get used since it doesn't do what I want or need it to do.The coworker recommended selling the kit lens and getting the 18-200 Canon to give myself the most versatility and see where my common ranges are so that I can later go buy prime lenses or lenses more within the ranges I find I'm using. For me, the zoom lens will largely be used for pet photography when my dog's at the dog park. I don't know how much I'll get away with using one at sporting events, but it wouldn't be out of the question.That being said, what are some zoom lenses you'd recommend I consider that are cheap enough for an amateur but will produce solid enough results that I won't pull my hair out?
I'm in the same boat as you - this is a hobby that I'd prefer not to invest $000's in just yet. I currently have the:18-55 stock50m 1.8 prime Canon18-200 CanonI admittedly haven't tried tons of other lenses, but I can report that I've been happy with my purchases as incremental investments in the hobby. When on holiday, I just take the 18-200. The versatility of the lens is awesome and the picture quality is a smidge better than the 18-55 in my amateur opinion. I've been a dSLR guy for only 3 years, so I'm still new to it and haven't got lens envy yet. Now other FBG's can jump in and tell me my lenses are crap and that I can't really be enjoying the hobby unless I'm spending $5,000+.
 
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Back with a follow up question. I've gotten my camera in and have been snapping away and gotten some pretty decent shots thus far. I ended up taking lessons from a coworker who does professional work on the side. I got myself a Crumpler 6MDH carrying case so now we're all set for the road as well.Now I'm looking into what I'd like my next lens to be apart from my kit lens (18-55 Canon IS). I'm likely going to buy a 50 1.8 IS for portrait work and since you really can't beat the price for a prime lens like that which will get a lot of usage.What I'm most concerned with now is the zoom lens. There are so many options out there that'll make your head spin. The more I read, the more confused I get. With me I know it'll ultimately be a decision that comes down to price vs. usage. For me, I know I'm not ready to spend thousands to get L glass since this is still an infancy hobby. That being said, I don't want to buy a useless lens that'll never get used since it doesn't do what I want or need it to do.The coworker recommended selling the kit lens and getting the 18-200 Canon to give myself the most versatility and see where my common ranges are so that I can later go buy prime lenses or lenses more within the ranges I find I'm using. For me, the zoom lens will largely be used for pet photography when my dog's at the dog park. I don't know how much I'll get away with using one at sporting events, but it wouldn't be out of the question.That being said, what are some zoom lenses you'd recommend I consider that are cheap enough for an amateur but will produce solid enough results that I won't pull my hair out?
I'm in the same boat as you - this is a hobby that I'd prefer not to invest $000's in just yet. I currently have the:18-55 stock50m 1.8 prime Canon18-200 CanonI admittedly haven't tried tons of other lenses, but I can report that I've been happy with my purchases as incremental investments in the hobby. When on holiday, I just take the 18-200. The versatility of the lens is awesome and the picture quality is a smidge better than the 18-55 in my amateur opinion. I've been a dSLR guy for only 3 years, so I'm still new to it and haven't got lens envy yet. Now other FBG's can jump in and tell me my lenses are crap and that I can't really be enjoying the hobby unless I'm spending $5,000+.
How is the motion blur on the far end of your 18-200? I just worry about shutter speed at the top end on that one. To top it off, I wonder if I need all the way to 200 or if 135 will be far enough. It'd cut the price in half if I went that direction too depending upon what add ons I use. Part of me is considering the 55-250 just due to cost and me unlikely going from needing 18 mm to suddenly needing 200 mm.
 
How is the motion blur on the far end of your 18-200? I just worry about shutter speed at the top end on that one. To top it off, I wonder if I need all the way to 200 or if 135 will be far enough. It'd cut the price in half if I went that direction too depending upon what add ons I use. Part of me is considering the 55-250 just due to cost and me unlikely going from needing 18 mm to suddenly needing 200 mm.
I never noticed the motion blur to be a problem. But I also know when it's on the camera that I need to only snap pictures in good lighting such as outdoors or near a window, or I will use a flash. The occasions when the f stop become an issue are really few and far between.From my point of view (and everyone's different), I wanted to have a single lens that would cover a wide range of situations. Since I use my camera mostly for family (and well, because I'm ultimately lazy) I didn't like the idea of having many lenses to swap as I might miss timely moments. The tradeoffs on image quality were worth it to me as I don't notice some differences that others might spot. If you're not doing lots of landscape shots, I would imagine the 18 to 55 range isn't that valuable to you, but depends how you are using your camera.
 
50mm for a portrait lens on a DSLR seems too much to me. When you consider crop factor, wouldn't a 35mm be better?

 
50mm for a portrait lens on a DSLR seems too much to me. When you consider crop factor, wouldn't a 35mm be better?
35 mm is a dangerous lens to take portraits with because you get distortion especially on the edges and if something is close. If the person is at some distance and in the center it can be used.The standard lengths for portraits is 85-135 mm. Fixed length lens are faster than a zoom which is good for DOF purposes. (depth of field)My 85 mm has a 1.2 minimum F stop which is ~ 2 stops faster than a 2.8.
 
First "bad" experience. Took the camera with me to Radio City to take pics of kids seeing Nick Jr Live. Wouldnt let me in with it since it was a long lens camera. Point and shoots were OK. Didnt even want pics of show, just wanted to get my kids smiling when show was going on. Luckily they had a locker to store it in. Otherwise, I dont know what I would have done since I was not going back to the car

 
First "bad" experience. Took the camera with me to Radio City to take pics of kids seeing Nick Jr Live. Wouldnt let me in with it since it was a long lens camera. Point and shoots were OK. Didnt even want pics of show, just wanted to get my kids smiling when show was going on. Luckily they had a locker to store it in. Otherwise, I dont know what I would have done since I was not going back to the car
Yeah, some venues will not allow SLRs, particularly longer lenses or multiple lenses. I know that is Mellon Arena's policy, although it depends what ticket taker/security person you get.
 
First "bad" experience. Took the camera with me to Radio City to take pics of kids seeing Nick Jr Live. Wouldnt let me in with it since it was a long lens camera. Point and shoots were OK. Didnt even want pics of show, just wanted to get my kids smiling when show was going on. Luckily they had a locker to store it in. Otherwise, I dont know what I would have done since I was not going back to the car
Yeah, some venues will not allow SLRs, particularly longer lenses or multiple lenses. I know that is Mellon Arena's policy, although it depends what ticket taker/security person you get.
Happy Birthday
 
AcerFC said:
First "bad" experience. Took the camera with me to Radio City to take pics of kids seeing Nick Jr Live. Wouldnt let me in with it since it was a long lens camera. Point and shoots were OK. Didnt even want pics of show, just wanted to get my kids smiling when show was going on. Luckily they had a locker to store it in. Otherwise, I dont know what I would have done since I was not going back to the car
Yeah, some venues will not allow SLRs, particularly longer lenses or multiple lenses. I know that is Mellon Arena's policy, although it depends what ticket taker/security person you get.
Happy Birthday
Thanks. :confused:
 
I just picked up a great magazine.

Petersons Big Book of photography, PhotographicDigital Photography Guide.

I like the way it shows the differences in pictures taken at different settings

It looks like a lot of free info is on the web site. The magazine I got seems to be a compilation of many topics which is cool.

Thought I would post it here since I found it to be great.

Now I need to start searching for filters. Im nervous to try the Chinese site Biggie posted.

 
Back with a follow up question. I've gotten my camera in and have been snapping away and gotten some pretty decent shots thus far. I ended up taking lessons from a coworker who does professional work on the side. I got myself a Crumpler 6MDH carrying case so now we're all set for the road as well.Now I'm looking into what I'd like my next lens to be apart from my kit lens (18-55 Canon IS). I'm likely going to buy a 50 1.8 IS for portrait work and since you really can't beat the price for a prime lens like that which will get a lot of usage.What I'm most concerned with now is the zoom lens. There are so many options out there that'll make your head spin. The more I read, the more confused I get. With me I know it'll ultimately be a decision that comes down to price vs. usage. For me, I know I'm not ready to spend thousands to get L glass since this is still an infancy hobby. That being said, I don't want to buy a useless lens that'll never get used since it doesn't do what I want or need it to do.The coworker recommended selling the kit lens and getting the 18-200 Canon to give myself the most versatility and see where my common ranges are so that I can later go buy prime lenses or lenses more within the ranges I find I'm using. For me, the zoom lens will largely be used for pet photography when my dog's at the dog park. I don't know how much I'll get away with using one at sporting events, but it wouldn't be out of the question.That being said, what are some zoom lenses you'd recommend I consider that are cheap enough for an amateur but will produce solid enough results that I won't pull my hair out?
I'm in the same boat as you - this is a hobby that I'd prefer not to invest $000's in just yet. I currently have the:18-55 stock50m 1.8 prime Canon18-200 CanonI admittedly haven't tried tons of other lenses, but I can report that I've been happy with my purchases as incremental investments in the hobby. When on holiday, I just take the 18-200. The versatility of the lens is awesome and the picture quality is a smidge better than the 18-55 in my amateur opinion. I've been a dSLR guy for only 3 years, so I'm still new to it and haven't got lens envy yet. Now other FBG's can jump in and tell me my lenses are crap and that I can't really be enjoying the hobby unless I'm spending $5,000+.
How is the motion blur on the far end of your 18-200? I just worry about shutter speed at the top end on that one. To top it off, I wonder if I need all the way to 200 or if 135 will be far enough. It'd cut the price in half if I went that direction too depending upon what add ons I use. Part of me is considering the 55-250 just due to cost and me unlikely going from needing 18 mm to suddenly needing 200 mm.
Canon 55-250 is a solid lens for the money if shooting in good lightCanon 70-200 L f4 is a very sharp lens for around $600
 
Jumped in last week.

Since I really don't know what the heck I'm doing...I went with a Sony a230. From the reviews, it's a small step down from the Canon and Nikon equivalent entry-levels, but a big step down in cost.

Also bought a 2 pack of 4GB SD cards for $19.99. Just gotta pick up a camera bag before the weekend.

 
Jumped in last week.Since I really don't know what the heck I'm doing...I went with a Sony a230. From the reviews, it's a small step down from the Canon and Nikon equivalent entry-levels, but a big step down in cost.Also bought a 2 pack of 4GB SD cards for $19.99. Just gotta pick up a camera bag before the weekend.
Depending on need...seems most like the Lowepro Slingshot for a quick access lighter bag.I think I would like that too.Right now I have a bigger bag as my need was for something to hold the camera, lenses, and other necessities for a 2 year old (plus a laptop if needed).
 
Jumped in last week.Since I really don't know what the heck I'm doing...I went with a Sony a230. From the reviews, it's a small step down from the Canon and Nikon equivalent entry-levels, but a big step down in cost.Also bought a 2 pack of 4GB SD cards for $19.99. Just gotta pick up a camera bag before the weekend.
Depending on need...seems most like the Lowepro Slingshot for a quick access lighter bag.I think I would like that too.Right now I have a bigger bag as my need was for something to hold the camera, lenses, and other necessities for a 2 year old (plus a laptop if needed).
I ended up choosing a Lowepro Flipside 300 bag. I'll probably end up with a bigger bag when/if I ever get a long tele for birding/wildlife.
 
soothsayer said:
I'm in the market for a new camera and thought I would bump this thread as there is great info in here. Thanks guys.
Couldnt be happier with my D90. This thread was gold
 
Quick question - my boys are getting to be old enough to be in sports so I'd like to take great action shots. I assume this means I need a camera that can take bursts of photos rather than hoping I can get the perfect shot with just one frame. Does that automatically mean I'm in the DSLR world? Is that technology available (along with a decent zoom) in the point and shoot world?

TIA.

 

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