jwb
Footballguy
This is how I feel - I really can't be bothered enhancing pics through software. I would be all over the body / 18-200. The 70-300 is nice, but it's limiting.
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DSLR Camera Guys (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter sho nuff
- Start date
CrossEyed
Footballguy
Yeah, I have a D50. I wasn't expecting the lens to be quite that expensive. $440 at Amazon.
sho nuff
Footballguy
I have not used any software yet but will find some to do "face swaps" on my kids.
Its hard getting bot of them smiling at the same time...or looking at you...or having eyes open.
Take several shots...get one good of each and hope you can match it all up for one good picture of them together.
Its hard getting bot of them smiling at the same time...or looking at you...or having eyes open.
Take several shots...get one good of each and hope you can match it all up for one good picture of them together.
jwb
Footballguy
I agree - it's a personal preference. To be honest, it's more a time thing than anything with me.
The Flying Turtle
Footballguy
I have heard great things about GIMP for beginner editing. First, it is free!
AcerFC
Footballguy
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CrossEyed
Footballguy
Thanks.On the butterfly picture I didn't change a thing.
On the foggy morning picture I tweaked the shadows and the saturation just a bit.
I'm not saying that I make major software alterations to every shot I take, but I certainly like to have that option. On indoor shots I tend to play around with curves on most of my shots.
CrossEyed
Footballguy
Would I notice that big of a difference between the Nikon 50mm 1.4 and the 50mm 1.8?
Say you needed a tall rectangle image for a book or a picture frame. Or you don't want all the background and you just want a large picture of the butterfly. You can crop out most of the background and zoom in on the butterfly. But fortunately, the colors look dead on and the exposure very good. But what if your camera settings were not ideal and the butterfly flew away? Maybe the white balance was off and you need to adjust it, or the exposure? You could fix it if you had too. Even professionals might choose the wrong settings or did not have time to adjust.
Jojo the circus boy
Footballguy
I just paid $289.95 at Adorama about an hour ago.
bigbottom
Footballguy
What does "gray market" mean?
A non-authorized dealers. Sometimes warranties are not honored from them
Jojo the circus boy
Footballguy
jwb
Footballguy
This is a good question. I did some research before buying mine, and most messageboard chatter that compared them came down on the 1.4 side. Most felt it was just better overall. I bought the 1.4, and I'm very pleased. I love my camera and taking pictures, and don't mind spending extra money if it means getting a better product (within reason, of course).CrossEyed said:
jwb
Footballguy
I thought the D50 had an autofocus motor?ETA: as far as it being twice as good - no, it's not. Most posts / pics I saw put it maybe 20% better / etc. But that doesn't mean it isn't worth twice the price - depends on your budget and how comfortable you are on spending $$ for this stuff. The way I see it, this is a lifetime hobby for me - if something a little better is an extra $200, etc, I'll definitely go that route. I'll save money somewhere else in my life. But that's just me. Some people only want "a little better than a regular point and shoot", or might have a limited budget for camera stuff. For them, the 1.8 is probably the way to go.
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Jayded
Footballguy
Follow up question: What would you all consider the essential equipment when purchasing a new DSLR?
Obviously I'll need a case that can carry multiple lenses where my old point and shoot was a one-stop shop. What else would you consider as must haves for a beginner kit? Polarizing lens? External flash?
What order would you get those things in if you had to prioritize?
Obviously I'll need a case that can carry multiple lenses where my old point and shoot was a one-stop shop. What else would you consider as must haves for a beginner kit? Polarizing lens? External flash?
What order would you get those things in if you had to prioritize?
bigbottom
Footballguy
If you're going to be shooting in RAW format, get yourself a big SDHC card.
jwb
Footballguy
UV lens filters - more for lens protection than anything. Polarizer for the one you will use most outdoors (only if outdoor / scenery is important)Case w/ room for several lensesremote (they're cheap)Tripod if you are going to do portrait type stuff, or you want some night pictures, etc. If you are considering a tripod, I would not go cheap here - the ones at Walmart and Best Buy (etc) are pretty junky, and I would not trust it with my D80 and 70-300mm lens. You don't have to go nuts, but spend $100-$150 and get something solid. 1 extra batterylike the above poster said, a big sdhc card. A book about your specific cameraI've had mine more than a year now, and I'm just about to get my first external flash. I *hate* the built-in flash, as it's just so harsh (no different than any other point and shoot).
bigbottom
Footballguy
Sweet! I only bought my camera in December and I already have everything on your list (except the external flash). Jayded - The remote is key if you're going to do any remote pictures with you in it - way, way better than trying to use the timer. The remote is also helpful for tripod shots with long shutter speeds.For your filters, take a look at maxsaver.net. It's a Hong Kong outfit, so there is some risk, but I got my filters just fine, and they were about 45% less than Adorama or Amazon prices. This can save you quite a bit if you're looking at a $100+ polarizer like I did.
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bigbottom
Footballguy
Jayded: On the book, check out David Busch's Canon EOS Digital Rebel XSi Guide. I have his book for the D90 and it is ridiculously comprehensive.
Parmcat
Canada: Beer, Bacon and Beavers
Some things that you may also consider for your gadget bag:A very good lens clothA rocket blower if your camera does not have sensor cleaning built in.LOTS of Mem cards and a case for them (check out the GEPE safe)Later on, a grey card for setting your WBSmall reflector for to keep in your bagGood polarizing filterIf you like to do landscape photography, a hotshoe levelSome of these things are very specific for certain photography. Just thowing them out thereParm
Helen Oster Adorama Camera
Footballguy
To clarify the position re the "grey market", at least as far as Adorama is concerned:"Grey market" refers to products imported directly into the US, rather than through the manufacturer's authorized agents / distributors. It is perfectly legal to directly import & sell these products in the US; the term "grey market" was coined by manufacturer's authorized distributors who wanted to discourage consumers from buying these (less costly) goods. With no factory authorized middle-man involved in the import of these products, costs are lower, so the price is lower to our customers. Many items which are in short supply or not imported at all by the manufacturer's authorized distributors are available in direct import. Any of our products which are being sold as such will be clearly marked, and you are more than welcome to contact me directly should you have any concerns regarding a specific listing. There is no difference in the actual products. Occasionally manufacturers will name them differently for example the Olympus USA Digital Stylus Cameras are called Olympus MJU Cameras in Europe On direct import products purchased from Adorama, we offer the same warranty as the USA warranted products carry for a period of one year. The only difference is that you would need to ship it to Adorama for warranty service.For, I think, about the past 10 years, the policy of Canon USA has been to honor their warranty for any lens sold though an authorized Canon reseller, whether it has been imported by an authorized agent or is direct import.All the customer requires is original receipt to verify the reseller and the date of sale – apparently they don't need the warranty card - and even if you do have the warranty card, you will still have to provide the receipt. Some consumers believe that the only practical reason to buy a USA warranted lens is if you think you may require warranty service outside the USA.Equipment classified as USA, purchased from an authorized dealer in the United States, will be eligible for Canon warranty service (almost) anywhere in the world. "USA" equipment is specifically categorized for distribution and sale in the United States through the network of Canon dealers.They will service any Canon item with a fee if it is otherwise not under warranty, but Nikon USA will not service a direct import item at all, whether the customer is willing to pay or not.I hope this helps.
CrossEyed
Footballguy
So buying gray market Nikon products carries more risk than Canon?
Helen Oster Adorama Camera
Footballguy
The biggest risk is in not buying from a reptable retailer; check out www.resellerratings.com for customer feedback on any retailer that is unknown to you, before you part with your cc details!
CrossEyed
Footballguy
So what's the Adorama warranty on a gray market Nikkor lens?
Helen Oster Adorama Camera
Footballguy
On a gray market (direct import) unit - Canon, Nikon, Nikkor - anything at all - Adorama offers exactly the same warranty as the USA warranted products carry for a period of one year. The only difference is that you would need to ship it to Adorama for warranty service.
AcerFC
Footballguy
This is really a great book for anyone starting out. Admittedly, I have to read a couple of parts a few times to truly understand what he is talking about, but after a little, it all starts to make senseI am about half way done and this has not been covered yet, (I skimmed the rest and did not see it) so I will ask you guys:It seems like the way to make a "correct" exposure is to set the aperture, the shutter speed and get a ISO reading to see if you need to adjust. BUT, what if you are taking a picture of a 2.5 year old and a 3 month old. OR, if you are at a sporting event and you want to capture that moment.How can you adjust your camera settings that quickly to get what you wantETA: Thanks Parmcat for the response. I started reading more today and the first section was dealing with shutter speed as things are in motion
Another one:What makes a lens good vs. bad. I have gone to some photography forums and many have said that the stock lens (18-105) is not good and not worth the price to have it bundled with the body. How can you determine what is good? Why is the lens that JoJo posted (I think it is a 50MM fixed lens) so good. This has not been covered in the book either. Does it have to do with the lower aperture
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Parmcat
Canada: Beer, Bacon and Beavers
I have often read pro sports photographers say that F/8 at 125th is the what they aim for...so adjust your ISO accordingly to try to nail those settings. That is a very general guide, but it is what I like to shoot for when trying to guess settings.The good glass is fast glass. Cheap lenses often suffer from vignetting, and will need help to get razor sharp images. I really like my 18-55IS lens. It is cheap, but it is very underrated IMO.Lenses like the Canon 70-300 F/4-5.6 are decent starter lenses, but really suffer in speed, and sharpness at the long end. I have always been told to by the best glass I can afford. I have done that and while my lens lineup is not AWESOME, I am always trying to tweak it. The Canon 70-200 F/4 is in my sights right now. Also the 17-40 F/4 is another.
The Flying Turtle
Footballguy
Usually the lenses with the lower apertures also have better glass (less distortion, better alignment, less glare, better coatings).I moved from the Canon 28-135 (kit lens) to the 17-55f2.8 and the difference is significant. Faster (f2.8), faster focus, more accurate focus, better image stabilization, overall much sharper pictures. It was worth it to me to give up the range from 55-135 in order to gain the range from 17-28.I also moved from the 55-250 to the 70-200f4IS with similar results.After a long time denying what the test results show, I can say I am now a believer. The better lenses are worth the $$. They provide fewer "bad shots" and allow me to be much more creative.This is really a great book for anyone starting out. Admittedly, I have to read a couple of parts a few times to truly understand what he is talking about, but after a little, it all starts to make senseI am about half way done and this has not been covered yet, (I skimmed the rest and did not see it) so I will ask you guys:It seems like the way to make a "correct" exposure is to set the aperture, the shutter speed and get a ISO reading to see if you need to adjust. BUT, what if you are taking a picture of a 2.5 year old and a 3 month old. OR, if you are at a sporting event and you want to capture that moment.How can you adjust your camera settings that quickly to get what you wantETA: Thanks Parmcat for the response. I started reading more today and the first section was dealing with shutter speed as things are in motionAnother one:What makes a lens good vs. bad. I have gone to some photography forums and many have said that the stock lens (18-105) is not good and not worth the price to have it bundled with the body. How can you determine what is good? Why is the lens that JoJo posted (I think it is a 50MM fixed lens) so good. This has not been covered in the book either. Does it have to do with the lower aperture
Henry Posner
Footballguy
Respectfully this is a generalization. For those of us who started shooting film, once the roll of film was in the camera your ISO was fixed until the roll was ended. Shooting (for example) Tri-X at ISO 400 meant either adjusting exposure every time your subject moved from sun to shade or back, or using auto-exposure, which was an option on many film cameras long before digital came along. For someone starting out, I'd suggest picking an ISO (400 is a good place to start for outdoor sports) and learning how to adjust your aperture and shutter speed. When I was shooting full-time, for outdoor sports I usually used ISO 400 film, selected the fastest shutter speed I could to freeze motion and adjusted the aperture as the lighting changed. I'd adjust the shutter speed only when I needed to do so to preserve correct exposure and had reached the limit of the lens' aperture range.Parmcat said:
Jojo the circus boy
Footballguy
CrossEyed
Footballguy
FFA becoming THE innerwebs hot spot.That's a good thingand it's only the good ones, not the scam sites.
AcerFC
Footballguy
OK.
I have decided that I am going to go with the Nikon D90 (even with some of the technical problems that some of them have)
Now my question for the board is this:
Which lens(') should I get. First time photographer. Looking to cap the purchase at around $1500 or under (maybe a little more if it adds a second lens)
I have decided that I am going to go with the Nikon D90 (even with some of the technical problems that some of them have)
Now my question for the board is this:
Which lens(') should I get. First time photographer. Looking to cap the purchase at around $1500 or under (maybe a little more if it adds a second lens)
AcerFC
Footballguy
FFA becoming THE innerwebs hot spot.That's a good thing
CrossEyed
Footballguy
What will you be mostly shooting?
AcerFC
Footballguy
I would like to shoot my kids (portrait and action) and nature. Not much architecture
CrossEyed
Footballguy
I'm not an expert, but I would think you'd want to go with a prime lens like maybe the 50mm 1.4 or 1.8 (for indoor shots, especially in low light) and maybe something like the 70-300mm VR (for outdoor, longer shots). Not sure if you can get all of this under $1500 though.I have the 70-300mm VR and love it. I like taking nature pics and use that one 90% of the time when I'm outside. I don't have the 50mm yet, but I'm planning on getting it soon. Can't decide on the 1.4 or the 1.8.Later I plan on adding the 18-200 for vacations and other times when I need more range but don't want to have to change lenses.
The Flying Turtle
Footballguy
I can only comment on Canon equipment, but Tamron makes a very nice 17-50f2.8 for about $450. No IS, but very sharp and great for low light. They make a similar lens for Nikon and I assume the reviews are favorable as well.
AcerFC
Footballguy
Would the 50mm be good to take on a Disney vacation. I can get the 70-300, the body and the 50mm 1.4 for $1683 on amazon. Might be a bit much. My wife would kill me but if I take nice pics of our kids it will be forgotten
CrossEyed
Footballguy
Well, like I said, I don't have the 50mm, so someone else would have to answer that one. I have the 18-55mm kit lens that came with my D50.Regarding your wife, Mrs CE was initially hesitant, but she has loved the pictures and no longer resists when I discuss a reasonable additional purchase. She's already stated that she's cool with me getting the 18-200 prior to our first vacation trip with our little boy.
The Flying Turtle
Footballguy
In my opinion the 50 would not be good for Disney. You need wide to get any good shots on rides, character autographs or at character meals.18-55 zoom (or equivalent) is my lens of choice for Disney.
Parmcat
Canada: Beer, Bacon and Beavers
While the 50mm Prime is a very sweet lens I really don't see it as a practical first lens to own. I think good telezoom lens with decent glass would be what you want to start with, and when you truly have defined what your photography will look like, then look at adding a speciality lens. 50mm Prime will not be an ideall lens for Disney.I wouls look at something like the 55-250 IS lens for under 300 to start. (or the Nikon equvalant) Something versitale should be your first lens...work up from there.Do not discount buying used glass either. I can now buy a Canon 70-200 F/4L for under 500.00 used and in pristine shape...rediculous
