DSLR Camera Guys (2 Viewers)

[pantagrapher]

I bought the Nikon 18-140mm lens that has received a lot of great reviews. Other than casting a small shadow on the bottom of the pictures if set all the way to 18mm, it takes fantastic pictures in well light areas and very good pictures with average lighting.

However, it also doesn't seem to focus on an entire room or area all the time.

For instance, on Christmas I was taking pics of my kids opening their gifts.

The lens wanted to focus on one part of the room instead of focusing on the entire room. Let's say my daughter was holding up a gift.

The focus was on what she was holding and her face would be slightly blurry.

I feel this must be a setting that needs to be changed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Edit: Nikon D3100 body

This is more an aperture issue than a lens issue, but it's also sort of a lens issue (depending on how it's happening). I'll explain: to take photos indoors without a flash, you'll usually either need a wide aperture or a slow shutter speed (or high ISO, of course, but the higher you push that, the grainier you'll get). Slow shutter speed is usually not a good option, especially when you're shooting people, so to compensate (if you are using auto settings), your aperture is going to go wide as it can. This narrows your depth of field. In any case, your camera, depending on what focus setting your on, will want to focus on something, so the rest of the objects that aren't at that depth will end up being soft.

 

[Parmcat]

I bought the Nikon 18-140mm lens that has received a lot of great reviews. Other than casting a small shadow on the bottom of the pictures if set all the way to 18mm, it takes fantastic pictures in well light areas and very good pictures with average lighting.

However, it also doesn't seem to focus on an entire room or area all the time.

For instance, on Christmas I was taking pics of my kids opening their gifts.

The lens wanted to focus on one part of the room instead of focusing on the entire room. Let's say my daughter was holding up a gift.

The focus was on what she was holding and her face would be slightly blurry.

I feel this must be a setting that needs to be changed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Edit: Nikon D3100 body

Try upping the aperture.

It is most likely vignetting. I agree to try around F8 when shooting those types of situations. Plus check your metering. You may have it on spot metering offset from center

 

[Payne]

I bought the Nikon 18-140mm lens that has received a lot of great reviews. Other than casting a small shadow on the bottom of the pictures if set all the way to 18mm, it takes fantastic pictures in well light areas and very good pictures with average lighting.

However, it also doesn't seem to focus on an entire room or area all the time.

For instance, on Christmas I was taking pics of my kids opening their gifts.

The lens wanted to focus on one part of the room instead of focusing on the entire room. Let's say my daughter was holding up a gift.

The focus was on what she was holding and her face would be slightly blurry.

I feel this must be a setting that needs to be changed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Edit: Nikon D3100 body

This is more an aperture issue than a lens issue, but it's also sort of a lens issue (depending on how it's happening). I'll explain: to take photos indoors without a flash, you'll usually either need a wide aperture or a slow shutter speed (or high ISO, of course, but the higher you push that, the grainier you'll get). Slow shutter speed is usually not a good option, especially when you're shooting people, so to compensate (if you are using auto settings), your aperture is going to go wide as it can. This narrows your depth of field. In any case, your camera, depending on what focus setting your on, will want to focus on something, so the rest of the objects that aren't at that depth will end up being soft.

First of all, I am shooting in "Auto" mode.

Should I look at the focus setting at all?

I was going to go with the 35mm for low light, but couldn't pass up the 18-140mm as I was growing tired of swapping out the kit lens and the 55-200.

Can you adjust the aperture in Auto mode?

My guess is I really need to learn how to use the camera outside of Auto mode, correct?

Thanks for your help though. Appreciate it.

 

[Payne]

Reading through this makes me realize how little I know.

 

[SecondCity34]

I'm getting the Nikon 18-300mm lens for my birthday.

Awesome lens. Worth every penny, imo. Especially good for travel.

 

[wilked]

Picked up an Olympus mirrorless OM-D E-M5 (coming from a Nikon D3000)

All I can say is wow - HUGE upgrade. I can use ISO up to 3200 without any real issue, and the built in 5-axis image stabilization gives me a couple f-stops it feels like. Camera plus lens fits in my jacket pocket (and once I get the 20mm pancake even better). I am really happy I upgraded

http://www.petertsaiphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OMD_EM5_vs_5DmkIII-copy1.jpg

 

[Don Quixote]

I'm getting the Nikon 18-300mm lens for my birthday.

Awesome lens. Worth every penny, imo. Especially good for travel.

Good to hear. I'm going to break it in with a trip to Costa Rica next month!

Agreed. I bought that lens just before my trip to Alaska last year. Worked great.

 

[Don Quixote]

I bought the Nikon 18-140mm lens that has received a lot of great reviews. Other than casting a small shadow on the bottom of the pictures if set all the way to 18mm, it takes fantastic pictures in well light areas and very good pictures with average lighting.

However, it also doesn't seem to focus on an entire room or area all the time.

For instance, on Christmas I was taking pics of my kids opening their gifts.

The lens wanted to focus on one part of the room instead of focusing on the entire room. Let's say my daughter was holding up a gift.

The focus was on what she was holding and her face would be slightly blurry.

I feel this must be a setting that needs to be changed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Edit: Nikon D3100 body

This is more an aperture issue than a lens issue, but it's also sort of a lens issue (depending on how it's happening). I'll explain: to take photos indoors without a flash, you'll usually either need a wide aperture or a slow shutter speed (or high ISO, of course, but the higher you push that, the grainier you'll get). Slow shutter speed is usually not a good option, especially when you're shooting people, so to compensate (if you are using auto settings), your aperture is going to go wide as it can. This narrows your depth of field. In any case, your camera, depending on what focus setting your on, will want to focus on something, so the rest of the objects that aren't at that depth will end up being soft.

First of all, I am shooting in "Auto" mode.

Should I look at the focus setting at all?

I was going to go with the 35mm for low light, but couldn't pass up the 18-140mm as I was growing tired of swapping out the kit lens and the 55-200.

Can you adjust the aperture in Auto mode?

My guess is I really need to learn how to use the camera outside of Auto mode, correct?

Thanks for your help though. Appreciate it.

Use A Priority mode. It should be the "A" option depending on your camera. Everything else will be AUTO, but you can adjust the aperture yourself.

I don't think "ISO" adjusts automatically in "A" mode, but, yeah, that's the mode that I use most times and would recommend.

Payne - For learning how to shoot outside auto, I'd recommend the book "Understanding Exposure." I read it based on some other mentions in this thread. Definitely worth reading.

 

[pantagrapher]

Picked up an Olympus mirrorless OM-D E-M5 (coming from a Nikon D3000)

All I can say is wow - HUGE upgrade. I can use ISO up to 3200 without any real issue, and the built in 5-axis image stabilization gives me a couple f-stops it feels like. Camera plus lens fits in my jacket pocket (and once I get the 20mm pancake even better). I am really happy I upgraded

http://www.petertsaiphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OMD_EM5_vs_5DmkIII-copy1.jpg

Nice. This is part of why I'm ditching my DSLR. Thinking of using the funds to go with a mirrorless (looking at Fuji X series) and adding a film rangefinder to the rotation (Minolta CLE, if I can find one).

 

[wilked]

I only had a couple lenses for my Nikon and figured if I am going to do it, now was the time. My only regret is not doing it sooner

edit to add: Real-world application... Xmas morning I was taking photos of my sons and presents and with my f/1.8 35mm and ISO at 1600 I was still struggling to get usable shots, and those I got were very grainy. In the same lighting with the kit f/3.5, ISO at 3200, I am able to get clear beautiful shots at slower shutter speeds due to the IS and excellent high-ISO performance.

Once I get my f/1.7 20mm I am going to be in a great place

 

[Brony]

Good timing on this discussion. I'm also looking for a travel camera. I've been looking at the Sony RX 100. I want something that will take no space in my travel bag / pocket with the best image quality. I also looked at emd model and that also looks sweet, just a little bigger than I wanted

 

[On The Rocks]

Have any of you guys had any experience with a 1.4x or 2.0 teleconverter?

I'm taking a trip to Alaska this summer and want to be make a smart choice on a telephoto lens.

Here are my options shooting with a Canon full frame body;

Buy a Tamron 150-600  -  approx cost $950.00

Buy a Canon 100-400  -  approx cost $2100.00

Rent a lens for 2-3 weeks.  -  it's been a while since I looked into the rental prices but I'm guessing $400 range.

Buy a teleconverter for a 70-200mm that I already own.  -  approx cost $450.00

I've never used a converter, and don't know if I should expect any sort of learning curve. 

 

[Parmcat]

Have any of you guys had any experience with a 1.4x or 2.0 teleconverter?

I'm taking a trip to Alaska this summer and want to be make a smart choice on a telephoto lens.

Here are my options shooting with a Canon full frame body;

Buy a Tamron 150-600  -  approx cost $950.00

Buy a Canon 100-400  -  approx cost $2100.00

Rent a lens for 2-3 weeks.  -  it's been a while since I looked into the rental prices but I'm guessing $400 range.

Buy a teleconverter for a 70-200mm that I already own.  -  approx cost $450.00

I've never used a converter, and don't know if I should expect any sort of learning curve. 

Hi there,

I took these with a Canon 300mm F4 and the 1.4 Tcon, and love the outcome:

Osprey

Another

I would also include looking at the Sigma 150-500 Contemporary lens.....awesome lens for decent prices.

Good luck!

 

[Parmcat]

Anyone have a Canon 1D MkIII for sale?

Looking for a second body to shoot sports.

 

[Ted Stickles]

Have any of you guys had any experience with a 1.4x or 2.0 teleconverter?

I'm taking a trip to Alaska this summer and want to be make a smart choice on a telephoto lens.

Here are my options shooting with a Canon full frame body;

Buy a Tamron 150-600  -  approx cost $950.00

Buy a Canon 100-400  -  approx cost $2100.00

Rent a lens for 2-3 weeks.  -  it's been a while since I looked into the rental prices but I'm guessing $400 range.

Buy a teleconverter for a 70-200mm that I already own.  -  approx cost $450.00

I've never used a converter, and don't know if I should expect any sort of learning curve. 

You just missed this deal...

http://www.canonpricewatch.com/blog/2016/04/hot-lowest-yet-tamron-sp-150-600mm-vc-for-679-buydig-via-ebay/

 

[chet]

Have any of you guys had any experience with a 1.4x or 2.0 teleconverter?

I'm taking a trip to Alaska this summer and want to be make a smart choice on a telephoto lens.

Here are my options shooting with a Canon full frame body;

Buy a Tamron 150-600  -  approx cost $950.00

Buy a Canon 100-400  -  approx cost $2100.00

Rent a lens for 2-3 weeks.  -  it's been a while since I looked into the rental prices but I'm guessing $400 range.

Buy a teleconverter for a 70-200mm that I already own.  -  approx cost $450.00

I've never used a converter, and don't know if I should expect any sort of learning curve. 

I have both a 1.4 and a 2.0.  I believe you lose 1 stop with the 1.4 and 2 stops with the 2.0.  So as long as there's lots of light, you should be ok.

 

[Parmcat]

I have both a 1.4 and a 2.0.  I believe you lose 1 stop with the 1.4 and 2 stops with the 2.0.  So as long as there's lots of light, you should be ok.

You are bang on Chester

 

[BoltBacker]

Good timing on this discussion. I'm also looking for a travel camera. I've been looking at the Sony RX 100. I want something that will take no space in my travel bag / pocket with the best image quality. I also looked at emd model and that also looks sweet, just a little bigger than I wanted

What type of travel? Museums/nightscapes like in European cities? Or exotic(and dangerous) wildlife like in sub saharan Africa in AMAZING light? Recommendation really depends on what you will shoot.

 

[Brony]

What type of travel? Museums/nightscapes like in European cities? Or exotic(and dangerous) wildlife like in sub saharan Africa in AMAZING light? Recommendation really depends on what you will shoot.

Where were you in January when I first posted this?? 

Already bought the Sony RX100 first generation.  Very happy with image quality.  The size of it works well for travel for sure, but making on the fly changes to the controls is not as easy with the DSLR.

 

[BoltBacker]

Where were you in January when I first posted this?? 

Already bought the Sony RX100 first generation.  Very happy with image quality.  The size of it works well for travel for sure, but making on the fly changes to the controls is not as easy with the DSLR.

Yeah, I noticed that.

You got a great camera in the end. Look forward to seeing some of your travel pics in the other thread.

 

[On The Rocks]

Looking at the Fuji X-T2.

Considering cashing out on all of my Canon DSLR Equipment to save my shoulders in old age. 

Does anyone know where I can get a comprehensive list of  lenses available for this camera?  Both Fuji and Off Brands?

I've done a couple of web searches, but since I've never owned mirrorless, or anything outside of Canon, I'm unsure entirely what's available.

TIA

 

[Brony]

Not sure about that OTR.

On separate note, I came across sale on Canon Refurbished Lens today.  I needed a zoom lens for a Canon 6D and picked up a EF 75-300mm for $50.  I know it's not an L lens or close to it, but for $50, I'll take it.

 

[On The Rocks]

Not sure about that OTR.

On separate note, I came across sale on Canon Refurbished Lens today.  I needed a zoom lens for a Canon 6D and picked up a EF 75-300mm for $50.  I know it's not an L lens or close to it, but for $50, I'll take it.

I'd really like to get into doing some street photography, so I don't know that I need much more than the 18-55 kit lens.

I think I'm destined to keep the Canon gear, and sometime when I have an extra $1-1.5K hanging around,     I'll buy a small point and shoot for street photography.

 

[pantagrapher]

I'd really like to get into doing some street photography, so I don't know that I need much more than the 18-55 kit lens.

I think I'm destined to keep the Canon gear, and sometime when I have an extra $1-1.5K hanging around,     I'll buy a small point and shoot for street photography.

Have you looked at the Ricoh GR? Was in a similar situation to you. Started out wanting the X-100T, then downgraded to the X70, and then, after a lot of research, settled on the Ricoh. I love it, and it cost half what I was originally going to spend. I usually don't shoot that wide (24mm), so that's taken some getting used to, but it's a great camera for street stuff and fits easily in the pocket of my tight ### jeans. I wrote more about it in the digital photo thread.

 

[On The Rocks]

Have you looked at the Ricoh GR? Was in a similar situation to you. Started out wanting the X-100T, then downgraded to the X70, and then, after a lot of research, settled on the Ricoh. I love it, and it cost half what I was originally going to spend. I usually don't shoot that wide (24mm), so that's taken some getting used to, but it's a great camera for street stuff and fits easily in the pocket of my tight ### jeans. I wrote more about it in the digital photo thread.

Thanks!  I'll check it out!

 

[Sand]

So I finally got sucked in by a great Buydig deal and snagged an 80D body for about $700 when all is said and done.  Pretty excited here.  My current camera is a 300D (original Digital Rebel), which I've pushed way past the rated shutter cycles that it's supposed to be good for.  

Nothing like upgrading ~8 generations.    Hopefully I'll be happy with the new toy - I'm hoping to see a pretty big difference in performance and quality here.

 

[BoltBacker]

I'd really like to get into doing some street photography, so I don't know that I need much more than the 18-55 kit lens.

I think I'm destined to keep the Canon gear, and sometime when I have an extra $1-1.5K hanging around,     I'll buy a small point and shoot for street photography.

You could split the difference. Just saw a deal direct from Canon on a refurb M3 kit that includes a lens and the mount adapter to use EF lenses for $350....

https://slickdeals.net/f/9498840-refurb-canon-eos-m3-ef-m-18-55mm-is-stm-kit-with-free-ef-s-adapter-plus-free-shipping-350

.... maybe I've just been lucky but every time I have bought refurbs from Canon directly the equipment looks brand new. They announced the M5 already so that probably explains the blowout price on the M3. Couple that body with the EF-M 22mm/F2 and you'll have a pretty small/light camera without breaking the bank AND have the option to use those Canon lenses you've invested in on the occasions you are willing to carry a little more weight.

I keep waiting for Canon to branch off the M line and have a full-frame, small mirrorless camera to keep up with Sony. I would be tempted on this M3 deal if I didn't already have an SL1 that is only slightly larger/heavier than the M3.

 

[beer 30]

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/nikon-d5300-2-lens/prod13204383.ip

Received this camera and the two lens's in the link above, Nikon D5300 24.2MP HD-SLR 2 Lens Bundle w/18-55mm VR II Lens and 55-200mm VR Lens.

I screwed around with it this weekend but most all of it's technology is lost on me. Where is a good place to start to learn about the basics of digital photography for a dummy. Never had anything more than a point & shoot camera before. TIA!

 

[BoltBacker]

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/nikon-d5300-2-lens/prod13204383.ip

Received this camera and the two lens's in the link above, Nikon D5300 24.2MP HD-SLR 2 Lens Bundle w/18-55mm VR II Lens and 55-200mm VR Lens.

I screwed around with it this weekend but most all of it's technology is lost on me. Where is a good place to start to learn about the basics of digital photography for a dummy. Never had anything more than a point & shoot camera before. TIA!

Your library. That and youtube videos. Eventually you'll likely want to carry around a very small, light, and inexpensive guide or "cheat sheet" to take with you and use in the field but really just save money for lenses, a tripod/monopod, and a bag that will help you to carry and use the camera with you more often.

That bag is good to store all your photography stuff together but it doesn't look especially useful to actually help you access your equipment quickly and easily. IMO the biggest hurdle of dSLR photography is no longer the price, it's the inconvenience of carrying all the gear so get a sling/bag/backpack that makes taking and using the equipment as easily as possible. And you won't need to take all your photo equipment with you almost ever so don't shop only for bags that hold all your stuff.

That kit is a very nice place to start. Don't do it now but think about getting a fast prime lens in the future because it will make a big difference on your final images. If you like landscapes focus on a wide lens, if you like portraits get a 85mm/F1.8, if you like shooting sports.... well, I hope you have an extra car laying around you can sell.

As tempting as it is to buy tripods/monopods/bags online because of the price.... don't do it. It's really important to touch/hold/feel those items because it's a very personal choice. What some jag-off on a website works best for him doesn't mean it works best for you. You really need to try it and if it doesn't work return it or trade it in for store credit to get something that works better. If some Asian dude that is 5'4" thinks a monopod is PERFECT for him..... doesn't mean it works for someone 6'3" etc. Same goes for body types and how bags fit on a person. 

 

[Don Quixote]

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/nikon-d5300-2-lens/prod13204383.ip

Received this camera and the two lens's in the link above, Nikon D5300 24.2MP HD-SLR 2 Lens Bundle w/18-55mm VR II Lens and 55-200mm VR Lens.

I screwed around with it this weekend but most all of it's technology is lost on me. Where is a good place to start to learn about the basics of digital photography for a dummy. Never had anything more than a point & shoot camera before. TIA!

Check out Bryan Peterson's Understanding Exposure.

 

[BoltBacker]

Oh, and I nearly forgot. Never go anywhere with your dSLR with just ONE memory card. Chances are that 32gb card is generic(which is fine) but highly reputable 64gb or even 128gb cards are so inexpensive just get one of those as your main card and use the 32gb generic as a backup. Also, on a big trip etc it's better to have two 64gb cards than a single 128gb card and swap the two smaller capacity cards back and forth during the trip. That way if a card does fail(rare but it does happen) you don't lose ALL your photos from a once in a lifetime trip. Backing up either locally with a drive or even better in the cloud is preferable but ads a LOT of overhead to traveling for some people. Just depends on how light you travel and where you travel.

If plan to shoot a lot of video or high frames-per-second make sure you get one of the faster memory cards out there.

ETA: THIS is where you save lots of $ buying online instead of brick-and-mortar stores. Memory cards, lenses, model-specific-accessories.

 

[On The Rocks]

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/nikon-d5300-2-lens/prod13204383.ip

Received this camera and the two lens's in the link above, Nikon D5300 24.2MP HD-SLR 2 Lens Bundle w/18-55mm VR II Lens and 55-200mm VR Lens.

I screwed around with it this weekend but most all of it's technology is lost on me. Where is a good place to start to learn about the basics of digital photography for a dummy. Never had anything more than a point & shoot camera before. TIA!

If you're really interested in learning how to use the camera, and understand all the buttons and menus I would recommend looking online for an adult community class in your area.  Where I live there are no less than 6 places that offer DSLR lessons in a group setting on what to do with that nice new piece of equipment.  They are typically covered in four to six 2 hour classes. 

 

[Sand]

If plan to shoot a lot of video or high frames-per-second make sure you get one of the faster memory cards out there.

Definitely the obvious difference between my 300D and 80D - the 7fps and (much) larger sensor means my data usage is way, way higher.  And 7fps continuous is just awesome (300D did 3fs for about 3 images and then bogged down).

if you like shooting sports.... well, I hope you have an extra car laying around you can sell.

 This is true if you want the really good stuff.  For telephoto lenses there are really three levels of lenses - all about light gathering.  The lowest end general use lenses start at f/5 or so and hit f/6.3 by the time you're topped out at 250 or 300mm. I found those to be not terrible adequate for sports.  There is a mid range at f/4.  Then there are the obscenely expensive lense, which are typically f2.8 and weigh a ton.  I have this lens.  Used can be had for even less (Fred Miranda has great used forums, good used stuff at Adorama and even Amazon).  The lens is great quality and I'm sure there are others in this range that are also quite good - so you don't have to spend a fortune.  I shoot outdoor sports a decent bit.  (Shooting indoor sports is always tough and there $$ really pays off.)

The above applies to mid range telephotos - don't scream at me when you see the price of a SigMonster.

 

[beer 30]

If you're really interested in learning how to use the camera, and understand all the buttons and menus I would recommend looking online for an adult community class in your area.  Where I live there are no less than 6 places that offer DSLR lessons in a group setting on what to do with that nice new piece of equipment.  They are typically covered in four to six 2 hour classes. 

My daughter has a photography class this coming semester in HS, she's the one who showed me how to take pictures on it to begin with. I'm relying on her to educate me and hopefully actually spark conversation between us rather than the normal grunt or yea I get from her

 

[phowler13]

Good timing on this discussion. I'm also looking for a travel camera. I've been looking at the Sony RX 100. I want something that will take no space in my travel bag / pocket with the best image quality. I also looked at emd model and that also looks sweet, just a little bigger than I wanted

Was wondering if  I could get some advice on a new camera. I've looked through the thread but things seemed to have changed a little with mirror less etc.  Was looking to get a bit more advanced, but still be able to just pull out the camera and take pictures  (but not break the bank.) I'm very much a beginner who would like to casually learn and could grow the camera. I've tried a couple of more expensive point and shoots that just aren't cutting it for me. I've got the Sony Dsc-hx50vc now was supposed to be one of the best point and shoots and although the zoom is great and im comfortable with Sony, lots of blurry images and the burst is obviously mediocre. I've looked into the rx100 but worried the original is old and had minimal zoom. The rx100 v is too rich for my blood. Also looked into the Sony a6000 but again a bit older. Not totally set on Sony, have had canons and liked them. So anyways any suggestions on a good beginner  camera to grow into. Looking for something that:

small/pocket jacket size. I know I won't carry around a dslr consistently 

Something I can grow into

Mostly used for outdoor vacations, family events, kids sporting events 

good video

thanks

 

[BoltBacker]

small/pocket jacket size. I know I won't carry around a dslr consistently 

Something I can grow into

Mostly used for outdoor vacations, family events, kids sporting events 

good video

The two highlighted sections are going to be what trips you up as it's very difficult to get anything close to both of these in a single camera. Pocketable cameras that focus fast enough for any sports photography is tough. If you want something that's going to fit in your pocket it has to be mirrorless. If you want sports photography it has to have interchangeable lenses.

- The best mirrorless systems in photography right now are probably the Sony cameras. It won't be cheap but there are lots of places(both new and used) to enter into their system. 

- Another good option would be one of the latest Panasonic or Olympus M4/3 cameras. They have a smaller sensor but aren't really smaller cameras, but the small sensor does have advantages. For instance the telephoto lenses can be smaller and lighter if you find the thought of dSLR size and weight is discouraging. The last few models from each have much faster focusing than previous M4/3 cameras had.You mention burst shooting being important and the frames-per-second are pretty amazing on their latest. The in camera stabilization is also highly regarded. If video is important to you it's tough to beat Panasonic right now.

- The best mirrorless to grow into is probably that Canon M line with an adapter to use dSLR lenses so you have the option to use a full fledged dSLR when needed as a second body. Really the best case scenario is a Canon M class camera with a pancake lens or two and a collection of lenses that you can also use with an old EOS 7D when you need to shoot sports. That allows you to go from a pocketable entry level camera, to a collection of lenses that will work on full-frame pro level cameras if you chose to go that route at some point in the future. 

Go to a place where you can actually hold all three cameras and see how the ergonomics work for you. Carefully compare the lens selection not just in terms of variety but also price and weight. Don't make the mistake of going with the body that works best for you today when the eventual camera bag you are trying to assemble might be MUCH heavier and more expensive in the long run.

 

[In The Zone]

I'm new to the world of DSLR. Thoughts on using a lens hood tomorrow while photographing during the eclipse?

 

[BoltBacker]

I'm new to the world of DSLR. Thoughts on using a lens hood tomorrow while photographing during the eclipse?

The purpose of a lens hood is so that sunlight doesn't hit the front element of the lens. In the case of shooting a solar eclipse you are pointing the camera directly at the sun so a lens hood will make no difference.

Do you have a solar filter to shoot the eclipse? If not, don't waste your time and potentially damage your photo gear....

https://www.theverge.com/2017/8/19/16173784/total-solar-eclipse-photography-no-filter-dslr-camera-zoom-lens

 

[In The Zone]

The purpose of a lens hood is so that sunlight doesn't hit the front element of the lens. In the case of shooting a solar eclipse you are pointing the camera directly at the sun so a lens hood will make no difference.

Do you have a solar filter to shoot the eclipse? If not, don't waste your time and potentially damage your photo gear....

https://www.theverge.com/2017/8/19/16173784/total-solar-eclipse-photography-no-filter-dslr-camera-zoom-lens

I posted this in the Solar Eclipse thread so I'll post it here as well. I made a filter. 

https://forums.footballguys.com/forum/topic/754135-solar-eclipse-2017/?do=findComment&comment=20354762

 

[BoltBacker]

I posted this in the Solar Eclipse thread so I'll post it here as well. I made a filter. 

https://forums.footballguys.com/forum/topic/754135-solar-eclipse-2017/?do=findComment&comment=20354762

Oh, sorry about that.... looks like you have it covered! That's really cool. I hope your photos work out for you.

 

[Short Corner]

Looking to get a decent dslr that can shoot videos of our son and post them for my parents.  Right now looking at this bundle on amazon.  Thoughts?  A friend of mine thinks I need an f/1.8 to 2.0 lense for shooting in a gym.

 

[BoltBacker]

Looking to get a decent dslr that can shoot videos of our son and post them for my parents.  Right now looking at this bundle on amazon.  Thoughts?  A friend of mine thinks I need an f/1.8 to 2.0 lense for shooting in a gym.

When you say shooting in a gym do you mean sports in a gym? Or something where your subject will be moving slower than that?

 

[Short Corner]

When you say shooting in a gym do you mean sports in a gym? Or something where your subject will be moving slower than that?

Basketball games.

 

[Don Quixote]

Looking to get a decent dslr that can shoot videos of our son and post them for my parents.  Right now looking at this bundle on amazon.  Thoughts?  A friend of mine thinks I need an f/1.8 to 2.0 lense for shooting in a gym.

I'd probably get a real zoom lens that can go up to 200+, versus just the converter in that.

 

[Short Corner]

I'd probably get a real zoom lens that can go up to 200+, versus just the converter in that.

I'll be filming a wide view, ie like a third of the court so you can see all ten players if that helps.  Not sure if that helps.  

 

[Don Quixote]

I'll be filming a wide view, ie like a third of the court so you can see all ten players if that helps.  Not sure if that helps.  

That should help, as you don't need as much of a zoom then.  To the extent you need a zoom, a zoom lens is better.  The converter will require longer shutter speed, which will be bad for sports photos with a lot of action (everyone will just look like blurs).

 

[BoltBacker]

  Right now looking at this bundle on amazon.  Thoughts?  A friend of mine thinks I need an f/1.8 to 2.0 lense for shooting in a gym.

As far as the bundle goes, I wouldn't buy that one. If I were to get a T6 I'd advise you get this two lens bundle instead....

https://slickdeals.net/f/10231016-canon-t6-dslr-camera-w-18-55mm-75-300mm-lenses-refurb-330-free-shipping?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1

... it's a refurb but a refurb directly from Canon and in my experience having purchased from them many times they are completely indistinguishable from brand new and the last time I ordered it had a pretty good warranty. The other stuff in that bundle from amazon is useful but you can actually cobble better individual components(especially memory cards) separately. 

The T6 wouldn't be bad, but honestly you'd be better off trying to find a deal on one of the 24mp Canons. Not because you need the extra mp's, but because the newer sensors generally perform better at high ISO's and shooting sports in a gym you may have to shoot at pretty high ISO's. The 18mp sensor in that T6 is pretty dated at this point in terms of high ISO performance. But that's a budget decision. Right now the SL2 is on Amazon for the lowest it's ever been brand new at $550....

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Cameras-24-2-Rebel-Body/dp/B071K61XFC?SubscriptionId=AKIAJHZHL2PTF4QQSIQA&tag=dpreview-bbx8-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B071K61XFC

It has better ISO and if you have any interest in video it's better than the T6, especially due to the microphone port. On top of everything else it's smaller, lighter, and has better battery life than the T6.

No matter what camera you decide to get I think your friend makes a great point about using fast lenses.  Here is a pretty good deal that I haven't tried because I already have something similar but you might take a look at these prices......

 https://slickdeals.net/f/10278064-new-customers-yongnuo-50mm-lens-canon-35-35mm-f2-0-autofocus-lens-canon-nikon-70-free-shipping#commentsBox

So if you are very price sensitive I would buy the T6 refurb bundle with a wide zoom and tele-zoom at Canon and the two Yongnuo lenses for under $500. If you are less price sensitive I would probably buy the SL2 and a Canon 50mm F1.4(and probably a carbon fiber monopod). You can get good photos either way, it's just easier to get photos with the latter package due to the challenging conditions you'll be shooting in.

 

[pmedina]

What about this one:  https://slickdeals.net/f/10480244-canon-70d-dslr-18-135mm-lens-refurb-729-free-shipping?src=catpagev2

vs. 80d

Mainly for kids soccer and track pictures. 

 

[BoltBacker]

What about this one:  https://slickdeals.net/f/10480244-canon-70d-dslr-18-135mm-lens-refurb-729-free-shipping?src=catpagev2

vs. 80d

Mainly for kids soccer and track pictures. 

I like the camera, but not sure if you'll be happy with the reach of that zoom for soccer. Track really depends on the event and your location while shooting. Soccer fields are pretty big. You can get a great shot by parking close to a goal and hoping a great moment comes to you but you also miss some great shots that way. Most of the time soccer/track are outside events during good light so you have that working in your favor. 

Full disclosure, I'm a bit of a prime-lens snob and I think if you took that 70d and put a Canon 200mm F2.8 prime on it and used a monopod you would get tack sharp sports photos that an IS zoom isn't capable of(unless you are talking about the L lenses like the 70-200mm). If you absolutely don't want to carry a monopod/tripod(and plenty of folks don't) then you might be more happy with a 70-300mm with IS. The image quality might not be quite as good and you may shoot with higher ISO but just getting out there and taking the shots is what is most important. Not everyone even wants to make prints today and the quality will be more than enough to share on screens with loved ones. For that matter, one of those 55-250mm IS zooms can be found very cheap and might suffice.

 

[pmedina]

I like the camera, but not sure if you'll be happy with the reach of that zoom for soccer. Track really depends on the event and your location while shooting. Soccer fields are pretty big. You can get a great shot by parking close to a goal and hoping a great moment comes to you but you also miss some great shots that way. Most of the time soccer/track are outside events during good light so you have that working in your favor. 

Full disclosure, I'm a bit of a prime-lens snob and I think if you took that 70d and put a Canon 200mm F2.8 prime on it and used a monopod you would get tack sharp sports photos that an IS zoom isn't capable of(unless you are talking about the L lenses like the 70-200mm). If you absolutely don't want to carry a monopod/tripod(and plenty of folks don't) then you might be more happy with a 70-300mm with IS. The image quality might not be quite as good and you may shoot with higher ISO but just getting out there and taking the shots is what is most important. Not everyone even wants to make prints today and the quality will be more than enough to share on screens with loved ones. For that matter, one of those 55-250mm IS zooms can be found very cheap and might suffice.

I'll upgrade lenses. Mainly concerned if the upgrade to 80d is worth it compared to the 70d for those functions.