6.ee - Thrice Cooked Bacon (Mission Chinese Food, SF)
Danny Bowien was the darling of the brief pop-up restaurant scene here about a decade ago. His restaurant Mission Chinese Food opened a couple of nights per week inside of a dingy family run Chinese restaurant space on an ungentrified block of Mission St. Bowien's food was adventurous, often featuring his personal takes on classic Chinese-American dishes.
We went there a few times and found the menu kind of hit and miss. It may have been an off night but I found the much lauded Kung Pao Pastrami to be almost inedible. But the one dish we ordered every time was the thrice cooked bacon. The thick bacon was steamed, then fried to render the fat and finally stir fried with rice cakes, bitter melon and loads of chilis. The combination of smoke, heat, bitter, chewiness and tongue numbing was intense but delicious. I've made a decent at home version using regular slab bacon but technically it was only twice cooked.
After Mission Chinese blew up here, Bowien expanded to NYC and starred on "Mind of a Chef". The Manhattan branch closed in 2020 amidst allegations of mismanagement and a toxic kitchen culture. Mission Chinese in SF still operates under the signage of Lung Shan, the Chinese restaurant it first used as the pop up space and eventually took over.
Short video of Bowien making this dish