Notes from
Granada(yes, Floppy, there really is a Granada in Nicaragua--it's one of the oldest cities in the Americas):
Mr. krista is out shopping for provisions for our first dinner party here, which will be a small group consisting of our Nica friend Rodolfo, his
loco friend Julio, a Canadian ex-pat named Andy, and Andy's
sposa Maria, who does not speak a word of English.
While he's gone, I'm sitting in the courtyard with
this view. Usually this is a peaceful place to sit and read, but right now the neighbors are setting off fireworks. The reasons are unknown, though probably relate to a religious ceremony of some kind. Nicaragua is nearly 90% Catholic, and there is always a religious celebration of some sort going on. Right now I know from Rodolfo that there is something lasting nine days for which he is going to church at 6 every morning. Nicaragua might be the second-poorest country in the western hemisphere, but there is always money for fireworks.
Just now one of the local vendors came by the house singing the name of what he was selling. My Spanish is not good enough to know. But you can buy almost anything here from your front door. The houses generally have heavy wooden doors with an intricate iron-work door in front of the wooden ones. Most people keep the iron doors locked but open up the wooden ones to let the breezes come through. The vendors will come singing up to your door and let you know what they have. Every day you can buy seafood, meat, milks, bread, fruit, vegetables, etc. from them. Some days you can also buy household items, and people will also come around occasionally selling animals, usually a wide variety of birds. In the evening people drag their rocking chairs (which every person has) onto the sidewalk and enjoy the sunset with their neighbors.
If you are an ex-pat here you are considered rich, though everything is so cheap here you needn't be to live here. But in a country with an average wage of less than $100/month and 60% unemployment, I suppose the ex-pats are all well off. When I say cheap, I mean, for example, 75 cents for the excellent (I'm told by Mr. krista) local beer Tona, or $1 for a nacatamale, which will keep you full through breakfast and lunch. Mangoes are free because they are so ubiquitous; you can just pick them up off the ground. You can buy a DVD for less than $1 of the newest releases--for instance, The Hangover II is available already--though you do have to know from whom you're buying so you get the best quality. A person will clean your house four hours a day six days a week (a necessity because of the outdoor living) for $80/month and consider that a desirable job.
The one thing that is extremely expensive here is electricity. Central A/C is unknown, but the rich will have small A/C units in their bedrooms. Some don't have that and rely on ceiling fans, and of course the average Nicaraguan does not even have the fans. Granada is hot and humid year-round and can be very oppressive. You learn to appreciate the A/C very much but no one runs it during the day due to the cost.
Granada is the most tourist-oriented city in Nicaragua and was beginning to boom as a retirement destination in the mid-2000s, until the global financial crisis hit. The boom has slowed but enough people are still looking to buy that some Granadians will have "this house is not for sale" painted on the side of their house. Still, of the 30 or so houses that Mr. krista has seen, all but one was owned by an ex-pat, so there is a large ex-pat presence here, mostly Americans with some Brits, Dutch, Canadians and others thrown in. Not many people in their 30s or 40s, though--mostly retirees in their 60s or backpackers in their teens and early 20s.
As might see from the picture, a typical colonial home in Granada will have a large outdoor space in the middle of the house. The homes in Granada are generally have a brightly painted but simple facade, as mentioned with iron gates over large wooden doors. Behind those doors you might find a place in terrible disrepair or an updated mansion, but there is virtually no way to tell from the street. The wooden doors and exterior walls are usually very thick, in part to try to keep the cool air in. You will typically enter a large
sala from the street, where you'll find the requisite rocking chairs, maybe a TV, the main living space. Behind that will be an outdoor space, a courtyard with beautiful flowers that might or might not have a pool but will always have at least one hammock. Some of this area will be covered, including the kitchens which are usually also located outside, but the pool and garden will be open air. For that reason you'll get a lot of critters visiting, including the rooftop cats. Yesterday Mr. krista discovered a small snake in the kitchen. Usually the bedrooms are located in the back of the house, where it is quieter and darker.
I don't know why I'm typing all this, but I hope someone will find it interesting.