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Any Trading Cards guys? (Sports, etc) (1 Viewer)

Anyone find any Bedards???
Guy on the Sportscard Nonsense FB page bought a box for $300. He pulled one and the shop bought be back for another box. Guy goes back and sees they are asking $1000 for it, now he’s mad at the shop. It’s really amazing how much the hobby shifted to gambling. People on breaks have no idea but buy because they heard that Bedard is worth money.

Why is he mad at the shop? He made a deal and sold it to them for a price. They can ask whatever they want, doesn't mean it's what they'll get.
Many stuck up for him. I hate shops that take advantage also, but they are taking the risk on a volatile card.

Anyone see the movie The Hobby? It just came out on Prime and Apple, pretty good synopsis of the hobby post-Covid.
 
Anyone find any Bedards???
Guy on the Sportscard Nonsense FB page bought a box for $300. He pulled one and the shop bought be back for another box. Guy goes back and sees they are asking $1000 for it, now he’s mad at the shop. It’s really amazing how much the hobby shifted to gambling. People on breaks have no idea but buy because they heard that Bedard is worth money.

Why is he mad at the shop? He made a deal and sold it to them for a price. They can ask whatever they want, doesn't mean it's what they'll get.
Many stuck up for him. I hate shops that take advantage also, but they are taking the risk on a volatile card.

Anyone see the movie The Hobby? It just came out on Prime and Apple, pretty good synopsis of the hobby post-Covid.

I guess it's hard for me to say a grown man got taken advantage when you can check a card's value with a few swipes of your phone. He should know a shop will generally pay half of what they KNOW they can sell it for. The shop is probably over pricing it in hopes the greater fool will buy the hot card :shrug:

Haven't heard of that doc but sounds interesting. Will definitely check it out.
 
Anyone find any Bedards???
Guy on the Sportscard Nonsense FB page bought a box for $300. He pulled one and the shop bought be back for another box. Guy goes back and sees they are asking $1000 for it, now he’s mad at the shop. It’s really amazing how much the hobby shifted to gambling. People on breaks have no idea but buy because they heard that Bedard is worth money.

Why is he mad at the shop? He made a deal and sold it to them for a price. They can ask whatever they want, doesn't mean it's what they'll get.
Many stuck up for him. I hate shops that take advantage also, but they are taking the risk on a volatile card.

Anyone see the movie The Hobby? It just came out on Prime and Apple, pretty good synopsis of the hobby post-Covid.

I guess it's hard for me to say a grown man got taken advantage when you can check a card's value with a few swipes of your phone. He should know a shop will generally pay half of what they KNOW they can sell it for. The shop is probably over pricing it in hopes the greater fool will buy the hot card :shrug:

Haven't heard of that doc but sounds interesting. Will definitely check it out.
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt17156042/
 
Have you guys ever heard of this restoration process? Looks almost like magic the way it takes out these creases and smooths the card. Pretty cool video but as with anything online it could be snake oil:

 
Have you guys ever heard of this restoration process? Looks almost like magic the way it takes out these creases and smooths the card. Pretty cool video but as with anything online it could be snake oil:

So work won't let me watch the video, but I'm guessing it's Kurt's Card Care....I have some experience....since my first post a few months ago, I've gotten back into the hobby...DEEP. My son an I collect modern stuff - mostly football, but I'm back into vintage post-war baseball (1940's and 1950's with some up to early 80's thrown in.

Long story short - I have been looking at my childhood collection and looking to have some of them graded. I have a few with PSA now, and am looking to send another batch. I came across Kurt's when I was trying to find a product to get some print lines out of modern cards.

I do use the stuff - I am thoroughly surprised at how well it works - but...I don't think big fixes like soaking/pressing creases out of cards will fool graders. I played around on some commons - and then had a Topps Wade Boggs rookie that I had when I was a kid. I have no clue when or how it got a very slight crease in it, but I sprayed it with the card spray for a bit, then pressed it just as he does in the videos - between two plexi discs. I let it dry and when I removed it, and did one more spray / press, I could only see the crease under a digital microscope. It was THAT hard to see. Now - knowing what card graders look at, I think they'd know - first because you can still see it...but second because I think the pressing process impacts the finish and gives it shiny spots. Chances of getting an altered stock grade are high in my opinion...but...if I was a shady person, I could totally get that crease out and sell it to probably 85% of collectors as a highly graded raw card.

The polish works well on print lines. I wouldn't use it on vintage. Just makes me nervous. It's a good product - but I think you have to weigh why you're doing it. If it's to send in for grading, I think unless you're REALLY good, you risk a grade potentially worse than what you would have otherwise gotten. In my case, I've cleaned up and pressed a few lower value PC cards and they look very nice in some one-touches in my collection.

I will say - a digital microscope is the best thing you can purchase for examining cards to potentially send off to grade. I've noticed things in cards I would have never noticed before with them.
 
Have you guys ever heard of this restoration process? Looks almost like magic the way it takes out these creases and smooths the card. Pretty cool video but as with anything online it could be snake oil:

So work won't let me watch the video, but I'm guessing it's Kurt's Card Care....I have some experience....since my first post a few months ago, I've gotten back into the hobby...DEEP. My son an I collect modern stuff - mostly football, but I'm back into vintage post-war baseball (1940's and 1950's with some up to early 80's thrown in.

Long story short - I have been looking at my childhood collection and looking to have some of them graded. I have a few with PSA now, and am looking to send another batch. I came across Kurt's when I was trying to find a product to get some print lines out of modern cards.

I do use the stuff - I am thoroughly surprised at how well it works - but...I don't think big fixes like soaking/pressing creases out of cards will fool graders. I played around on some commons - and then had a Topps Wade Boggs rookie that I had when I was a kid. I have no clue when or how it got a very slight crease in it, but I sprayed it with the card spray for a bit, then pressed it just as he does in the videos - between two plexi discs. I let it dry and when I removed it, and did one more spray / press, I could only see the crease under a digital microscope. It was THAT hard to see. Now - knowing what card graders look at, I think they'd know - first because you can still see it...but second because I think the pressing process impacts the finish and gives it shiny spots. Chances of getting an altered stock grade are high in my opinion...but...if I was a shady person, I could totally get that crease out and sell it to probably 85% of collectors as a highly graded raw card.

The polish works well on print lines. I wouldn't use it on vintage. Just makes me nervous. It's a good product - but I think you have to weigh why you're doing it. If it's to send in for grading, I think unless you're REALLY good, you risk a grade potentially worse than what you would have otherwise gotten. In my case, I've cleaned up and pressed a few lower value PC cards and they look very nice in some one-touches in my collection.

I will say - a digital microscope is the best thing you can purchase for examining cards to potentially send off to grade. I've noticed things in cards I would have never noticed before with them.

Good stuff Nick. I figured the card graders would be onto this and have some detection method but of course Kurt tells us otherwise. Seems like a fun project for the personal collection though.
 
Good stuff Nick. I figured the card graders would be onto this and have some detection method but of course Kurt tells us otherwise. Seems like a fun project for the personal collection though.

I watched an interview with the head of SGC, and he basically said "you can't detect what isn't there." He was basically alluding to the fact that they can't detect everything. I do think use of the card polish on modern cards (Panini Prizm) to take out LIGHT scratches and scuffs would be undetectable. I will prove that theory shortly as I'm sending in a card that had visible print lines that I polished out for grading soon. The polish is odorless, and as long as you thoroughly buff it off, leaves nothing on the card, but is just enough to fill a scratch. It doesn't have any trace under UV light either from what I can tell.

It's the pressing that I think gets you in trouble honestly. I have used Kurt's humidity/straw blowing to flatten out corners some - but again, I think this kind of thing will take you from a 5/6 to a 6/7, not taking an 8 to a 10 or anything. It makes cards more visually appealing, but doesn't take it away entirely. It is kind of fun to do though.
 
Have you guys ever heard of this restoration process? Looks almost like magic the way it takes out these creases and smooths the card. Pretty cool video but as with anything online it could be snake oil:

Something that you may want to read more about on the Net54 forums. It’s a pretty controversial topic. I know people who have done it to remove paste from the backs of old cards that were glued to the pages of a scrapbook. I don’t know if that is better than removing creases.
 
Have you guys ever heard of this restoration process? Looks almost like magic the way it takes out these creases and smooths the card. Pretty cool video but as with anything online it could be snake oil:

Something that you may want to read more about on the Net54 forums. It’s a pretty controversial topic. I know people who have done it to remove paste from the backs of old cards that were glued to the pages of a scrapbook. I don’t know if that is better than removing creases.

Yeah, I was thinking about ethics of it. Doesn't seem as bad as trimming a card but I can see that point being valid. If this Kurt guy was smart he would have been doing this for decades before selling his secrets to the public. I imagine there are lots of slabbed up cards compromised by his methods.
 
Have you guys ever heard of this restoration process? Looks almost like magic the way it takes out these creases and smooths the card. Pretty cool video but as with anything online it could be snake oil:

Something that you may want to read more about on the Net54 forums. It’s a pretty controversial topic. I know people who have done it to remove paste from the backs of old cards that were glued to the pages of a scrapbook. I don’t know if that is better than removing creases.

Yeah, I was thinking about ethics of it. Doesn't seem as bad as trimming a card but I can see that point being valid. If this Kurt guy was smart he would have been doing this for decades before selling his secrets to the public. I imagine there are lots of slabbed up cards compromised by his methods.
There have been cases of trimming also. Dampen the miscut card so it expands, then trim it.
 
I just got back a bunch of my childhood collection that I sent to PSA for grading back in January. It's interesting because some modern cards I shipped in the same lot came back in like 2-3 weeks, but the vintage stuff took a solid 3 months. Overall, happier with the vintage grades than I was with the modern stuff. Mostly what I expected. My Nolan Ryan rookie got a 3, which I figured was largely due to centering, but I didn't get an OC qualifier, so that's good. The surprise of the lot was my 1960 Topps Roger Maris that came back a PSA 8 - that shocked me. I think because I never really thought much of the card, but now that I look at it, it is really nice.

I sent about 10 raw vintage cards to SGC the other day...I'll see how they come back. I think at this point, for vintage cards, I'll likely use SGC - their turn-around is faster, and better priced. I also think SGC slabs look nicer on vintage cards. I don't see the premium for the PSA grade on the vintage stuff as much as I do on the modern stuff. I feel like for modern you still go with PSA if you have hopes for a high grade as there is a noticeable premium paid.
 
I just got back a bunch of my childhood collection that I sent to PSA for grading back in January. It's interesting because some modern cards I shipped in the same lot came back in like 2-3 weeks, but the vintage stuff took a solid 3 months. Overall, happier with the vintage grades than I was with the modern stuff. Mostly what I expected. My Nolan Ryan rookie got a 3, which I figured was largely due to centering, but I didn't get an OC qualifier, so that's good. The surprise of the lot was my 1960 Topps Roger Maris that came back a PSA 8 - that shocked me. I think because I never really thought much of the card, but now that I look at it, it is really nice.

I sent about 10 raw vintage cards to SGC the other day...I'll see how they come back. I think at this point, for vintage cards, I'll likely use SGC - their turn-around is faster, and better priced. I also think SGC slabs look nicer on vintage cards. I don't see the premium for the PSA grade on the vintage stuff as much as I do on the modern stuff. I feel like for modern you still go with PSA if you have hopes for a high grade as there is a noticeable premium paid.
Awesome
Congrats on the PSA 8!

They no longer offer qualifiers unless you specifically ask for them
 
I just got back a bunch of my childhood collection that I sent to PSA for grading back in January. It's interesting because some modern cards I shipped in the same lot came back in like 2-3 weeks, but the vintage stuff took a solid 3 months. Overall, happier with the vintage grades than I was with the modern stuff. Mostly what I expected. My Nolan Ryan rookie got a 3, which I figured was largely due to centering, but I didn't get an OC qualifier, so that's good. The surprise of the lot was my 1960 Topps Roger Maris that came back a PSA 8 - that shocked me. I think because I never really thought much of the card, but now that I look at it, it is really nice.

I sent about 10 raw vintage cards to SGC the other day...I'll see how they come back. I think at this point, for vintage cards, I'll likely use SGC - their turn-around is faster, and better priced. I also think SGC slabs look nicer on vintage cards. I don't see the premium for the PSA grade on the vintage stuff as much as I do on the modern stuff. I feel like for modern you still go with PSA if you have hopes for a high grade as there is a noticeable premium paid.
Awesome
Congrats on the PSA 8!

They no longer offer qualifiers unless you specifically ask for them

Thanks re. the qualifiers. That's good to know. Do you happen to know how that works out numerically? i.e. if I got a PSA 3 with no qualifiers (weren't requested) does that mean that with qualifiers, it could have been, say...a PSA 5 (OC)?
 
I just got back a bunch of my childhood collection that I sent to PSA for grading back in January. It's interesting because some modern cards I shipped in the same lot came back in like 2-3 weeks, but the vintage stuff took a solid 3 months. Overall, happier with the vintage grades than I was with the modern stuff. Mostly what I expected. My Nolan Ryan rookie got a 3, which I figured was largely due to centering, but I didn't get an OC qualifier, so that's good. The surprise of the lot was my 1960 Topps Roger Maris that came back a PSA 8 - that shocked me. I think because I never really thought much of the card, but now that I look at it, it is really nice.

I sent about 10 raw vintage cards to SGC the other day...I'll see how they come back. I think at this point, for vintage cards, I'll likely use SGC - their turn-around is faster, and better priced. I also think SGC slabs look nicer on vintage cards. I don't see the premium for the PSA grade on the vintage stuff as much as I do on the modern stuff. I feel like for modern you still go with PSA if you have hopes for a high grade as there is a noticeable premium paid.
Awesome
Congrats on the PSA 8!

They no longer offer qualifiers unless you specifically ask for them

Thanks re. the qualifiers. That's good to know. Do you happen to know how that works out numerically? i.e. if I got a PSA 3 with no qualifiers (weren't requested) does that mean that with qualifiers, it could have been, say...a PSA 5 (OC)?
Unofficial rule of thumb is a qualifier knocks the grade down 2 spots
 
I just got back a bunch of my childhood collection that I sent to PSA for grading back in January. It's interesting because some modern cards I shipped in the same lot came back in like 2-3 weeks, but the vintage stuff took a solid 3 months. Overall, happier with the vintage grades than I was with the modern stuff. Mostly what I expected. My Nolan Ryan rookie got a 3, which I figured was largely due to centering, but I didn't get an OC qualifier, so that's good. The surprise of the lot was my 1960 Topps Roger Maris that came back a PSA 8 - that shocked me. I think because I never really thought much of the card, but now that I look at it, it is really nice.

I sent about 10 raw vintage cards to SGC the other day...I'll see how they come back. I think at this point, for vintage cards, I'll likely use SGC - their turn-around is faster, and better priced. I also think SGC slabs look nicer on vintage cards. I don't see the premium for the PSA grade on the vintage stuff as much as I do on the modern stuff. I feel like for modern you still go with PSA if you have hopes for a high grade as there is a noticeable premium paid.
Awesome
Congrats on the PSA 8!

They no longer offer qualifiers unless you specifically ask for them

Thanks re. the qualifiers. That's good to know. Do you happen to know how that works out numerically? i.e. if I got a PSA 3 with no qualifiers (weren't requested) does that mean that with qualifiers, it could have been, say...a PSA 5 (OC)?
Unofficial rule of thumb is a qualifier knocks the grade down 2 spots
Right - but since they aren't doing qualifiers except by request now, does that mean my as-graded PSA 3 Ryan is a legit 3, or is it what would have previously been a 5 (OC)? If it's the prior, I have no clue why anyone would request a qualifier as it could only hurt the card.
 
"A mint condition Gretzky rookie card fetched $3.75 million when it was auctioned in 2021, although Simonds explained it's likely that not all Gretzky cards within the boxes will attain the highest rating of "gem mint 10."

Hell, he might not get any "gem mint 10s."

That card is hard to get a gem mint 10 because O-Pee-Chee quality control was apparently crap and most of the cards are drastically off-center. This isn't like trying to pull a pack-fresh vintage card with good corners and edges - the issue is the centering, which is likely to impact a significant portion of the cards straight from the pack. The guy clearly didn't do his math when he was bidding.
 
I recently completed something I am pretty proud of. I am a big South Carolina Gamecocks fan and decided that I really liked the look of 2022 Leaf Exotic Spencer Rattlers. It is a pretty small set, but I set out to get one of each of the animal prints. Had them all complete except for the fish for about 8 months (although I did pick up a fish printing plate). I had only seen one of the 7 printed "Fish" varieties sell a little over a year ago, which I was outbid on.

Well I finally found one for sale on eBay a few weeks back. Although it did not specify the animal print, my saved search caught it and I could tell it was a fish. Auction ended during a CLTFC game I attended so had to be vigilant to monitor it, but got it for about 24 less than the only other auction.

Got it in the mail a couple weeks ago and last night was setting up my way too many Rattlers in a new case I got.

Here is the checklist so you can see what I'm talking about: https://www.cardboardconnection.com/2022-leaf-exotic-football-cards

Long story, but a fun collection moment for me.
 
I recently completed something I am pretty proud of. I am a big South Carolina Gamecocks fan and decided that I really liked the look of 2022 Leaf Exotic Spencer Rattlers. It is a pretty small set, but I set out to get one of each of the animal prints. Had them all complete except for the fish for about 8 months (although I did pick up a fish printing plate). I had only seen one of the 7 printed "Fish" varieties sell a little over a year ago, which I was outbid on.

Well I finally found one for sale on eBay a few weeks back. Although it did not specify the animal print, my saved search caught it and I could tell it was a fish. Auction ended during a CLTFC game I attended so had to be vigilant to monitor it, but got it for about 24 less than the only other auction.

Got it in the mail a couple weeks ago and last night was setting up my way too many Rattlers in a new case I got.

Here is the checklist so you can see what I'm talking about: https://www.cardboardconnection.com/2022-leaf-exotic-football-cards

Long story, but a fun collection moment for me.

That's cool. My son is trying to do that with Panini Prizm variants of Joe Burrow (his favorite). I like those side-quests. They're typically affordable and fun. I'm trying to get every Upper Deck Canvas of Washington Capitals players...I've got about 85% but I'm now stalled on a few odd-balls that I just can't find.
 
Finally go a Ja Morant "on card auto" rookie via a redemption after a 4 year wait. Pretty cool to get it but, the fact he has been out this whole season tanked his market. And the card? Sticker Auto lol. Thanks Panini!
 
"A mint condition Gretzky rookie card fetched $3.75 million when it was auctioned in 2021, although Simonds explained it's likely that not all Gretzky cards within the boxes will attain the highest rating of "gem mint 10."

Hell, he might not get any "gem mint 10s."

That card is hard to get a gem mint 10 because O-Pee-Chee quality control was apparently crap and most of the cards are drastically off-center. This isn't like trying to pull a pack-fresh vintage card with good corners and edges - the issue is the centering, which is likely to impact a significant portion of the cards straight from the pack. The guy clearly didn't do his math when he was bidding.

No way I'm opening those boxes. Even with normal 80s issues, a pack fresh card will often only bring you an 8 but with OPC who knows. The value is in the rarity of the unopened wax. I remember this box opening which really gave me pause for OPC packs: https://youtu.be/HjCeLNgFyN8?si=VOT6PxSmIjB1WYxL&t=106
 
"A mint condition Gretzky rookie card fetched $3.75 million when it was auctioned in 2021, although Simonds explained it's likely that not all Gretzky cards within the boxes will attain the highest rating of "gem mint 10."

Hell, he might not get any "gem mint 10s."

That card is hard to get a gem mint 10 because O-Pee-Chee quality control was apparently crap and most of the cards are drastically off-center. This isn't like trying to pull a pack-fresh vintage card with good corners and edges - the issue is the centering, which is likely to impact a significant portion of the cards straight from the pack. The guy clearly didn't do his math when he was bidding.

No way I'm opening those boxes. Even with normal 80s issues, a pack fresh card will often only bring you an 8 but with OPC who knows. The value is in the rarity of the unopened wax. I remember this box opening which really gave me pause for OPC packs: https://youtu.be/HjCeLNgFyN8?si=VOT6PxSmIjB1WYxL&t=106

OOF
 
"A mint condition Gretzky rookie card fetched $3.75 million when it was auctioned in 2021, although Simonds explained it's likely that not all Gretzky cards within the boxes will attain the highest rating of "gem mint 10."

Hell, he might not get any "gem mint 10s."

That card is hard to get a gem mint 10 because O-Pee-Chee quality control was apparently crap and most of the cards are drastically off-center. This isn't like trying to pull a pack-fresh vintage card with good corners and edges - the issue is the centering, which is likely to impact a significant portion of the cards straight from the pack. The guy clearly didn't do his math when he was bidding.

No way I'm opening those boxes. Even with normal 80s issues, a pack fresh card will often only bring you an 8 but with OPC who knows. The value is in the rarity of the unopened wax. I remember this box opening which really gave me pause for OPC packs: https://youtu.be/HjCeLNgFyN8?si=VOT6PxSmIjB1WYxL&t=106
I bought a opc 72 series one pack, same results as the video.
 
No way I'm opening those boxes. Even with normal 80s issues, a pack fresh card will often only bring you an 8 but with OPC who knows. The value is in the rarity of the unopened wax. I remember this box opening which really gave me pause for OPC packs: https://youtu.be/HjCeLNgFyN8?si=VOT6PxSmIjB1WYxL&t=106

Honestly, I've been buying some boxes of 2020 football because my son loves Burrow, Tua, Jefferson, and a few of the other QB's that year, so it's fun for him. What I will say is that 95% of the boxes are priced as if there is a guarantee of at least a few big rookies being in them, when the reality is you're lucky to pull a single base Burrow/Tua/Herbert/Hurts/Jefferson from most boxes.

My point is, the value calculation on sealed boxes is almost always off - it's almost never worth opening them because they're priced at a level that assumes you hit the jackpot. I think it's even worse for modern cards where you get like 6 packs of 4 cards and the big hits are of a limited print run. At least with the older stuff, there weren't short prints and you could do the math on the odds of getting any one card more easily, but still...
 
No way I'm opening those boxes. Even with normal 80s issues, a pack fresh card will often only bring you an 8 but with OPC who knows. The value is in the rarity of the unopened wax. I remember this box opening which really gave me pause for OPC packs: https://youtu.be/HjCeLNgFyN8?si=VOT6PxSmIjB1WYxL&t=106

Honestly, I've been buying some boxes of 2020 football because my son loves Burrow, Tua, Jefferson, and a few of the other QB's that year, so it's fun for him. What I will say is that 95% of the boxes are priced as if there is a guarantee of at least a few big rookies being in them, when the reality is you're lucky to pull a single base Burrow/Tua/Herbert/Hurts/Jefferson from most boxes.

My point is, the value calculation on sealed boxes is almost always off - it's almost never worth opening them because they're priced at a level that assumes you hit the jackpot. I think it's even worse for modern cards where you get like 6 packs of 4 cards and the big hits are of a limited print run. At least with the older stuff, there weren't short prints and you could do the math on the odds of getting any one card more easily, but still...
Just have to be careful as the hit could be an expired redemption card.
 
No way I'm opening those boxes. Even with normal 80s issues, a pack fresh card will often only bring you an 8 but with OPC who knows. The value is in the rarity of the unopened wax. I remember this box opening which really gave me pause for OPC packs: https://youtu.be/HjCeLNgFyN8?si=VOT6PxSmIjB1WYxL&t=106

Honestly, I've been buying some boxes of 2020 football because my son loves Burrow, Tua, Jefferson, and a few of the other QB's that year, so it's fun for him. What I will say is that 95% of the boxes are priced as if there is a guarantee of at least a few big rookies being in them, when the reality is you're lucky to pull a single base Burrow/Tua/Herbert/Hurts/Jefferson from most boxes.

My point is, the value calculation on sealed boxes is almost always off - it's almost never worth opening them because they're priced at a level that assumes you hit the jackpot. I think it's even worse for modern cards where you get like 6 packs of 4 cards and the big hits are of a limited print run. At least with the older stuff, there weren't short prints and you could do the math on the odds of getting any one card more easily, but still...
Just have to be careful as the hit could be an expired redemption card.

That's definitely an interesting calculation you have to make when investing and valuing modern day wax. I guess it depends on the set but curious how long before expiration does it start effecting the value of the box.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

That was probably the worst time to collect due to overprinting but you may have a few valuable cards. Ebay sold/completed listings are a good start but grading is everything these days. If your cards aren't in gem mint condition, they're probably not worth much. Assume most of your cards are PSA 5-7 to get a handle on their value.
 
No way I'm opening those boxes. Even with normal 80s issues, a pack fresh card will often only bring you an 8 but with OPC who knows. The value is in the rarity of the unopened wax. I remember this box opening which really gave me pause for OPC packs: https://youtu.be/HjCeLNgFyN8?si=VOT6PxSmIjB1WYxL&t=106

Honestly, I've been buying some boxes of 2020 football because my son loves Burrow, Tua, Jefferson, and a few of the other QB's that year, so it's fun for him. What I will say is that 95% of the boxes are priced as if there is a guarantee of at least a few big rookies being in them, when the reality is you're lucky to pull a single base Burrow/Tua/Herbert/Hurts/Jefferson from most boxes.

My point is, the value calculation on sealed boxes is almost always off - it's almost never worth opening them because they're priced at a level that assumes you hit the jackpot. I think it's even worse for modern cards where you get like 6 packs of 4 cards and the big hits are of a limited print run. At least with the older stuff, there weren't short prints and you could do the math on the odds of getting any one card more easily, but still...
Just have to be careful as the hit could be an expired redemption card.

That's definitely an interesting calculation you have to make when investing and valuing modern day wax. I guess it depends on the set but curious how long before expiration does it start effecting the value of the box.
Yes it does affect the price. Another thing to consider with modern wax is if the best card has been pulled yet.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?
Regardless of their worth......it’s simply cool to look at all of them and sleeve them up.

I have well over 15K baseball cards spanning the 70’s/80’s/90’s/00’s/10’s/20’s now.

Yes, I have had the really good ones graded.....but I love to bust them out and look at them with my son from time to time and talk about the players and baseball in general during these different eras.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

ebay

Hint: they're not worth anything.
eBay is good, but I sometimes wonder if there is a money laundering scheme going on with the prices people ask for.

Like, who is paying $2,000 for an ungraded Donruss error card “missing dot after inc.”?

ETA: No wait, I found it… $390,000 for an ungraded 1990 Donruss Nolan Ryan with no dot.
 
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I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?
Likely pennies per card
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

ebay

Hint: they're not worth anything.
eBay is good, but I sometimes wonder if there is a money laundering scheme going on with the prices people ask for.

Like, who is paying $2,000 for an ungraded Donruss error card “missing dot after inc.”?

ETA: No wait, I found it… $390,000 for an ungraded 1990 Donruss Nolan Ryan with no dot.

You can ask anything you want for a card. I ignore the asking prices on Ebay and only check completed/sold listings. That's the only number that matters.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

ebay

Hint: they're not worth anything.
eBay is good, but I sometimes wonder if there is a money laundering scheme going on with the prices people ask for.

Like, who is paying $2,000 for an ungraded Donruss error card “missing dot after inc.”?

ETA: No wait, I found it… $390,000 for an ungraded 1990 Donruss Nolan Ryan with no dot.

You can ask anything you want for a card. I ignore the asking prices on Ebay and only check completed/sold listings. That's the only number that matters.
That is less entertaining though.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

ebay

Hint: they're not worth anything.
eBay is good, but I sometimes wonder if there is a money laundering scheme going on with the prices people ask for.

Like, who is paying $2,000 for an ungraded Donruss error card “missing dot after inc.”?

ETA: No wait, I found it… $390,000 for an ungraded 1990 Donruss Nolan Ryan with no dot.

You can ask anything you want for a card. I ignore the asking prices on Ebay and only check completed/sold listings. That's the only number that matters.
That is less entertaining though.

I get a kick out of it as well. I thought you were actually talking about money changing hands with the laundering comment. These cards would have to sell for that to happen. I think they're just making up these prices either for schtick, attempting to create a market/value for a worthless card and/or the small possibility some idiot will pay up for it.
 
I get a kick out of it as well. I thought you were actually talking about money changing hands with the laundering comment. These cards would have to sell for that to happen. I think they're just making up these prices either for schtick, attempting to create a market/value for a worthless card and/or the small possibility some idiot will pay up for it.
I just searched for Donruss error filtered for sold and searched for high to low. Some idiots do seem to pay for it. So, have to respect the game, I guess.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

ebay

Hint: they're not worth anything.
eBay is good, but I sometimes wonder if there is a money laundering scheme going on with the prices people ask for.

Like, who is paying $2,000 for an ungraded Donruss error card “missing dot after inc.”?

ETA: No wait, I found it… $390,000 for an ungraded 1990 Donruss Nolan Ryan with no dot.

When people talk about using ebay for value, they're referring to completed listings of sold items. I looked at your links and this Bo Jackson one, this seems like a scam.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

ebay

Hint: they're not worth anything.
eBay is good, but I sometimes wonder if there is a money laundering scheme going on with the prices people ask for.

Like, who is paying $2,000 for an ungraded Donruss error card “missing dot after inc.”?

ETA: No wait, I found it… $390,000 for an ungraded 1990 Donruss Nolan Ryan with no dot.

When people talk about using ebay for value, they're referring to completed listings of sold items. I looked at your links and this Bo Jackson one, this seems like a scam.
Searching for completed items can be fun too. This Jose Uribe was listed for $40,000 or best offer. It notes best offer was accepted.

But this Ken Griffey was up for $15,000 and says final sale with no note that best offer was accepted. Some weird stuff.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

ebay

Hint: they're not worth anything.
eBay is good, but I sometimes wonder if there is a money laundering scheme going on with the prices people ask for.

Like, who is paying $2,000 for an ungraded Donruss error card “missing dot after inc.”?

ETA: No wait, I found it… $390,000 for an ungraded 1990 Donruss Nolan Ryan with no dot.

When people talk about using ebay for value, they're referring to completed listings of sold items. I looked at your links and this Bo Jackson one, this seems like a scam.
Easier to use is the website 130point.com.
 
I have hundreds (maybe a thousand) baseball/basketball/football cards from the late 80's-early mid 90's. Most of them probally not worth much if anything at all but i there a site or anything that can tell me how much things are worth? I have/had some old beckett sports mags...would those still be the best way?

I just went through this a few months ago - brought my collection of ~75,000 cards from my parents in file boxes - each filled with 9 880ct shoe boxes of cards and then a few binders. I was a pretty organized kid, so most boxes were unique to a specific set of cards. For me, I went to sportscardpro.com and searched for each set prior to going through the box. I sorted the cards based on the highest value, and then made a cheat sheet of what to look for in that box. (Hint - for most sets, it's cards of whatever bigger Rookies came out that year, then Nolan Ryan, Cal Ripken, Griffey, Frank Thomas, Rickey Henderson, Bo Jackson, and maybe a few others like Bonds, McGwire, etc. Beyond that, even mid-level stars of the time like Ozzie Smith, Barry Larkin, etc. are worthless beyond their rookie year) Then I quickly thumbed through the box, puling out the cards that were even remotely valuable and setting them aside. I repeated that for every box to reduce the ~100 boxes down to about 2 with the better cards in them. The good thing is that since everyone from that era is retired, you likely don't have to do this again as the value won't really change. The commons...they're pretty much worthless. I haven't done it yet, but I'll take whatever someone will give me for them at this point. They just take up space.

Now the box with the better cards - I just started looking the values up. I had a pretty good system, so most of the better cards were already sleeved/toploaded. I actually removed about 200 cards from top loaders that were worth something as a kid, but aren't now. (I'm looking at you here, Kevin Maas, Phil Plantier, and Brien Taylor...bums)

It was an awesome trip down memory lane - but not overly profitable. My best find was a 1993 Topps Jeter Rookie. Had to be one of the last 2 or 3 packs I ever bought because most of my collecting stopped in 1992. It's in great condition, so I'm going to get it graded at some point. I also oddly had 2 Mia Hamm soccer cards that could be worth $100 or so if they grade well. Go figure.
 

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