yes, send in those flimsy card saversI’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
I’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
I’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
I've said this many times in this thread but just make sure the cards are worth grading - see eBay items sold and PSA price guide. If they're not valuable Pre 70s cards, make sure they're in Mint condition or it's likely not worth the cost (obviously there are a few exceptions like 86 Jordan, etc).
Great info, what a process.yes, send in those flimsy card saversI’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
Some companies will not grade unless it is sent in those flimsy card savers
penny sleeve
flimsy card saver
then stack them in the matching order on your form (i.e, 1-20)
then sandwich between 2 card board pieces
then rubber band from top and sides
then wrap in bubble wrap
then box
(if when you say older cards and oversize like 52 Topps you can do away with the penny sleeve i suppose...i have anyway)
We're sending our cards 3000miles away for some dude making $19 an hour to give us a grade.
Them getting our cards out of a card saver should be the least of our concerns![]()
Great info, I’ve got some like a Marino RC off centered that’s probably not worth it.I’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
I've said this many times in this thread but just make sure the cards are worth grading - see eBay items sold and PSA price guide. If they're not valuable Pre 70s cards, make sure they're in Mint condition or it's likely not worth the cost (obviously there are a few exceptions like 86 Jordan, etc).
^This.
For the newer stuff, a 9 might as well be raw/ungraded. It's 10 or bust - especially with junk wax era stuff. I'm supposed to get back a bunch of cards from my childhood collection from PSA today. My 1st batch a few months ago was largely 7's and 8's...so it wasn't worth the cost to grade. I invested in a $30 digital microscope and scanned my next batch like a hawk. I only sent what I deemed legitimately flawless and centered and had much better results.
I'd say for pack-fresh modern stuff, only half of what I pull actually passes my scan as a 10. A lot of centering issues, and edges get dinged even in the pack...and even then there's an element of luck when it comes to grading.
Even if it isn't worth it from a value perspective, it is nice to have the card protected/preserved in a hard slab if it is part of your collection.Great info, I’ve got some like a Marino RC off centered that’s probably not worth it.I’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
I've said this many times in this thread but just make sure the cards are worth grading - see eBay items sold and PSA price guide. If they're not valuable Pre 70s cards, make sure they're in Mint condition or it's likely not worth the cost (obviously there are a few exceptions like 86 Jordan, etc).
^This.
For the newer stuff, a 9 might as well be raw/ungraded. It's 10 or bust - especially with junk wax era stuff. I'm supposed to get back a bunch of cards from my childhood collection from PSA today. My 1st batch a few months ago was largely 7's and 8's...so it wasn't worth the cost to grade. I invested in a $30 digital microscope and scanned my next batch like a hawk. I only sent what I deemed legitimately flawless and centered and had much better results.
I'd say for pack-fresh modern stuff, only half of what I pull actually passes my scan as a 10. A lot of centering issues, and edges get dinged even in the pack...and even then there's an element of luck when it comes to grading.
Also, definitely PSA over Beckett etc?
For autographed baseballs what do you all do? I have an old Mantle Upper Deck ball that doesn’t have the paperwork etc anymore just the felt bag to hold it.
Even if it isn't worth it from a value perspective, it is nice to have the card protected/preserved in a hard slab if it is part of your collection.Great info, I’ve got some like a Marino RC off centered that’s probably not worth it.I’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
I've said this many times in this thread but just make sure the cards are worth grading - see eBay items sold and PSA price guide. If they're not valuable Pre 70s cards, make sure they're in Mint condition or it's likely not worth the cost (obviously there are a few exceptions like 86 Jordan, etc).
^This.
For the newer stuff, a 9 might as well be raw/ungraded. It's 10 or bust - especially with junk wax era stuff. I'm supposed to get back a bunch of cards from my childhood collection from PSA today. My 1st batch a few months ago was largely 7's and 8's...so it wasn't worth the cost to grade. I invested in a $30 digital microscope and scanned my next batch like a hawk. I only sent what I deemed legitimately flawless and centered and had much better results.
I'd say for pack-fresh modern stuff, only half of what I pull actually passes my scan as a 10. A lot of centering issues, and edges get dinged even in the pack...and even then there's an element of luck when it comes to grading.
Also, definitely PSA over Beckett etc?
For autographed baseballs what do you all do? I have an old Mantle Upper Deck ball that doesn’t have the paperwork etc anymore just the felt bag to hold it.
Re. PSA, Beckett, SGC, etc...You'll get hundreds of different opinions here. Mine is this...
For modern stuff (pre-1980) I go PSA. There is a noticeable price premium paid for PSA on modern cards. Beckett is probably #2 for modern simply because a Beckett 10 is really hard to get, and thus kind of the "gold standard." The biggest premium will be on a Beckett 10 from what I can tell. Everything other than a 10 for Beckett is slightly less than PSA. SGC just doesn't hold the same value in modern for whatever reason, although I think that gap is closing.
For vintage (Pre-1980), I think the gap between PSA and SGC is pretty close. I personally go SGC because their submission process is easier, their turn-around time is really fast, and their fees are typically cheaper (especially on high-dollar cards). I also really like SGC's slabs. No issues going PSA for vintage, but it's not worth the premium in price and hassle for me.
I personally just don't do much with Beckett simply because I don't like the look of Beckett's slabs, although the sub-grades are pretty nice.
Speaking of SGC, iirc PSA acquired them recently.
Great info, what a process.yes, send in those flimsy card saversI’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
Some companies will not grade unless it is sent in those flimsy card savers
penny sleeve
flimsy card saver
then stack them in the matching order on your form (i.e, 1-20)
then sandwich between 2 card board pieces
then rubber band from top and sides
then wrap in bubble wrap
then box
(if when you say older cards and oversize like 52 Topps you can do away with the penny sleeve i suppose...i have anyway)
We're sending our cards 3000miles away for some dude making $19 an hour to give us a grade.
Them getting our cards out of a card saver should be the least of our concerns![]()
Is there an easy button on Amazon that sends all this w cardboard and bubble wrap?
Only have one real old one, Bob Gibson, that make me real nervous trying to slide into those goofy card savers.
Beckett, once on top of the card world has seemingly done everything to fall off that podium.Also, definitely PSA over Beckett etc?
For autographed baseballs what do you all do? I have an old Mantle Upper Deck ball that doesn’t have the paperwork etc anymore just the felt bag to hold it.
Beckett, once on top of the card world has seemingly done everything to fall off that podium.Also, definitely PSA over Beckett etc?
For autographed baseballs what do you all do? I have an old Mantle Upper Deck ball that doesn’t have the paperwork etc anymore just the felt bag to hold it.
For grading there are people who may want and like any of the main 3/4 but all the numbers will show people are submitting and buying PSA over the next grading company by 8-10X
I can agree with @Fat Nick and his comments.
I tend to mainly stick to PSA as in a general sense they will always command more money than other grading companies.
For your services.
If it's, hey I just wanna grade some of my old cards for my collection SGC is great.
If your plan is to liquidate your cards that opens up a lot more as to what cards and the ROI you can get. That usually will lead you towards PSA the majority of the times.
I am putting together a lot to send to PSA now for myself.
My friend just dropped off 200+cards from the 70's to 90's he wanted me to review and to send with mine.
His goal is to sell them.
Between condition and potential grade, i pulled only 5 cards I deem worth sending in based on what the card would sell for if my grading eye is decent
If you want to piggy back on my submission just let me know.
(Assuming you are near Philly?)
I work across the river in NJ.
But even well before that if you want... send a pic of a card(s) and we can help you determine if its even worth considering.
Have you guys heard of this CT Scan service that will scan boxes for inserts, etc? Crazy to think about. Like the modern version of resealed wax.
Have you guys heard of this CT Scan service that will scan boxes for inserts, etc? Crazy to think about. Like the modern version of resealed wax.
It’s a Gibson RC, so sending it off has me a little nervous. May sit in my closet a bit longer.Great info, what a process.yes, send in those flimsy card saversI’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
Some companies will not grade unless it is sent in those flimsy card savers
penny sleeve
flimsy card saver
then stack them in the matching order on your form (i.e, 1-20)
then sandwich between 2 card board pieces
then rubber band from top and sides
then wrap in bubble wrap
then box
(if when you say older cards and oversize like 52 Topps you can do away with the penny sleeve i suppose...i have anyway)
We're sending our cards 3000miles away for some dude making $19 an hour to give us a grade.
Them getting our cards out of a card saver should be the least of our concerns![]()
Is there an easy button on Amazon that sends all this w cardboard and bubble wrap?
Only have one real old one, Bob Gibson, that make me real nervous trying to slide into those goofy card savers.
When you say real old Gibson?
1959 or 1973?
no 1 stop for the packing stuff.
I use old cardboard from old boxes and i don't always use bubble wrap.
Will sometime use just crumpled news paper.
It’s a Gibson RC, so sending it off has me a little nervous. May sit in my closet a bit longer.Great info, what a process.yes, send in those flimsy card saversI’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
Some companies will not grade unless it is sent in those flimsy card savers
penny sleeve
flimsy card saver
then stack them in the matching order on your form (i.e, 1-20)
then sandwich between 2 card board pieces
then rubber band from top and sides
then wrap in bubble wrap
then box
(if when you say older cards and oversize like 52 Topps you can do away with the penny sleeve i suppose...i have anyway)
We're sending our cards 3000miles away for some dude making $19 an hour to give us a grade.
Them getting our cards out of a card saver should be the least of our concerns![]()
Is there an easy button on Amazon that sends all this w cardboard and bubble wrap?
Only have one real old one, Bob Gibson, that make me real nervous trying to slide into those goofy card savers.
When you say real old Gibson?
1959 or 1973?
no 1 stop for the packing stuff.
I use old cardboard from old boxes and i don't always use bubble wrap.
Will sometime use just crumpled news paper.![]()
Have you guys heard of this CT Scan service that will scan boxes for inserts, etc? Crazy to think about. Like the modern version of resealed wax.
I saw a video where somebody was scanning a box if National Treasures NBA looking for Logoman cards. It was really clear when they found one. Not a shadow of a doubt. I didn't realize somebody was doing a fee-for-service on that. Really sad if that's the case. I hoped the high cost of a CT scanner would keep this out of the hands of most, but it's honestly the downfall of the way things are if that's the case, although I'd argue maybe that's not a bad thing.
With the value of some of these cards right out of the pack, it doesn't surprise me someone did this though. It's not small potatoes anymore looking for a Griffey Jr. Upper Deck like when I was a kid. There are legit fortunes in these boxes - and the cost of a "ticket" to play is big money. I make really good money, but it blows my mind the inventory teenagers walk around card shows with. Kids trying to sell legit 4-figure cards on the regular. My grail as a kid was a Nolan Ryan rookie, and I was the "big kid in school" when I got one for $300 at an auction my Dad took me to. Spent every dollar I had on it. My son has already pulled multiple $100 cards out of packs, but still doesn't have much of a true "collection" because the real big cards aren't in retail.
I'm to the point now that I buy cheap retail when I can find it for the fun of the rip with my son, knowing payback is unlikely. I'll buy a hobby here and there for his birthday or something, but only from reputable resellers like Dave and Adam's or Steel City, and beyond that, I only buy singles. Personally I'm into vintage stuff, so this kind of thing doesn't impact me that much, but it's still sad.
Beckett, once on top of the card world has seemingly done everything to fall off that podium.Also, definitely PSA over Beckett etc?
For autographed baseballs what do you all do? I have an old Mantle Upper Deck ball that doesn’t have the paperwork etc anymore just the felt bag to hold it.
For grading there are people who may want and like any of the main 3/4 but all the numbers will show people are submitting and buying PSA over the next grading company by 8-10X
I can agree with @Fat Nick and his comments.
I tend to mainly stick to PSA as in a general sense they will always command more money than other grading companies.
For your services.
If it's, hey I just wanna grade some of my old cards for my collection SGC is great.
If your plan is to liquidate your cards that opens up a lot more as to what cards and the ROI you can get. That usually will lead you towards PSA the majority of the times.
I am putting together a lot to send to PSA now for myself.
My friend just dropped off 200+cards from the 70's to 90's he wanted me to review and to send with mine.
His goal is to sell them.
Between condition and potential grade, i pulled only 5 cards I deem worth sending in based on what the card would sell for if my grading eye is decent
If you want to piggy back on my submission just let me know.
(Assuming you are near Philly?)
I work across the river in NJ.
But even well before that if you want... send a pic of a card(s) and we can help you determine if its even worth considering.
I had about as many as your friend did re. 70's to 90's cards...I think I've sent in maybe 2 dozen...only 2 10's. Population control is real - especially 80's/90's stuff. You're not getting a 10 unless it's impeccable, and even then I think it's a crap shoot. I sent in an '87 Bonds Fleer Glossy - it was perfect. Got a 7. I have no clue how that card got a 7.
I'm not too far from you guys - Flemington NJ.
It’s a Gibson RC, so sending it off has me a little nervous. May sit in my closet a bit longer.Great info, what a process.yes, send in those flimsy card saversI’ve never sent any of my old cards to get graded, do I really need to use those flimsy card saver cases or is a magnet hard case ok? I have some older cards I’m not crazy about forcing into a card saver or trust they will remove ok.
Some companies will not grade unless it is sent in those flimsy card savers
penny sleeve
flimsy card saver
then stack them in the matching order on your form (i.e, 1-20)
then sandwich between 2 card board pieces
then rubber band from top and sides
then wrap in bubble wrap
then box
(if when you say older cards and oversize like 52 Topps you can do away with the penny sleeve i suppose...i have anyway)
We're sending our cards 3000miles away for some dude making $19 an hour to give us a grade.
Them getting our cards out of a card saver should be the least of our concerns![]()
Is there an easy button on Amazon that sends all this w cardboard and bubble wrap?
Only have one real old one, Bob Gibson, that make me real nervous trying to slide into those goofy card savers.
When you say real old Gibson?
1959 or 1973?
no 1 stop for the packing stuff.
I use old cardboard from old boxes and i don't always use bubble wrap.
Will sometime use just crumpled news paper.![]()
Nice
Such a cool card.
If it grades out a 5 or more you may be subject to an upcharge assuming you send it at the low lever with a declared value of $500
Also keep in mind with PSA you usually need a min to send in and "vintage" ends at 1979.
If you only have a couple of cards and not in a hurry to sell SGC may be your best option whenever you are ready.
Have you guys heard of this CT Scan service that will scan boxes for inserts, etc? Crazy to think about. Like the modern version of resealed wax.
I saw a video where somebody was scanning a box if National Treasures NBA looking for Logoman cards. It was really clear when they found one. Not a shadow of a doubt. I didn't realize somebody was doing a fee-for-service on that. Really sad if that's the case. I hoped the high cost of a CT scanner would keep this out of the hands of most, but it's honestly the downfall of the way things are if that's the case, although I'd argue maybe that's not a bad thing.
With the value of some of these cards right out of the pack, it doesn't surprise me someone did this though. It's not small potatoes anymore looking for a Griffey Jr. Upper Deck like when I was a kid. There are legit fortunes in these boxes - and the cost of a "ticket" to play is big money. I make really good money, but it blows my mind the inventory teenagers walk around card shows with. Kids trying to sell legit 4-figure cards on the regular. My grail as a kid was a Nolan Ryan rookie, and I was the "big kid in school" when I got one for $300 at an auction my Dad took me to. Spent every dollar I had on it. My son has already pulled multiple $100 cards out of packs, but still doesn't have much of a true "collection" because the real big cards aren't in retail.
I'm to the point now that I buy cheap retail when I can find it for the fun of the rip with my son, knowing payback is unlikely. I'll buy a hobby here and there for his birthday or something, but only from reputable resellers like Dave and Adam's or Steel City, and beyond that, I only buy singles. Personally I'm into vintage stuff, so this kind of thing doesn't impact me that much, but it's still sad.
If this becomes a real thing I would think card companies will figure out something to shield or prevent it.
It's not really my lane so i don't think on it much though

Yes and it potentially could kill the unopened market for newer boxes,Have you guys heard of this CT Scan service that will scan boxes for inserts, etc? Crazy to think about. Like the modern version of resealed wax.
There are 3-4 other cases that were loaded like thisThis type of stuff is just such a bad look: https://x.com/ericwhiteback/status/1818373791778472226
Anyone ever have luck dumping a whole collection? Ive got a ton of cards, mostly 87-92 stuff. Nothing graded or over the top valuable, but lots of decent cards. I’m assuming demand for that era is pretty weak, but I don’t really know what to do with it all.
Really hate these guys. Its so obvious they have an IN and are sent all the good stuff. Sort of an unfair monopoly by a big margin.There are 3-4 other cases that were loaded like thisThis type of stuff is just such a bad look: https://x.com/ericwhiteback/status/1818373791778472226
Anyone ever have luck dumping a whole collection? Ive got a ton of cards, mostly 87-92 stuff. Nothing graded or over the top valuable, but lots of decent cards. I’m assuming demand for that era is pretty weak, but I don’t really know what to do with it all.
Anyone ever have luck dumping a whole collection? Ive got a ton of cards, mostly 87-92 stuff. Nothing graded or over the top valuable, but lots of decent cards. I’m assuming demand for that era is pretty weak, but I don’t really know what to do with it all.
Probably the worst 6 year span in card history.
No basketball. I do have a handful of earlier cards- McGwire, Bonds etc. A few random things like a Lemieux rookie and #1 a/b Garbage Pail kids, etc. Lots of weird stuff like cards from Post cereal, Wonder bread, Fantastic Sam’s, KMart, etc. I’m too lazy to try to post individual cards so I’ll probably FB marketplace it at some point. Oh well.Anyone ever have luck dumping a whole collection? Ive got a ton of cards, mostly 87-92 stuff. Nothing graded or over the top valuable, but lots of decent cards. I’m assuming demand for that era is pretty weak, but I don’t really know what to do with it all.
Probably the worst 6 year span in card history.
Haha, I was thinking the same thing. Poor guy. At least you could have stuck it out til 93 and got those Jeter rookies.
Also assuming you're not talking basketball. 87-89 Fleer Basketball has decent value.
It's this kind of stuff why I have no interest in purchasing anything new/recent.Have you guys heard of this CT Scan service that will scan boxes for inserts, etc? Crazy to think about. Like the modern version of resealed wax.
Yes. **** the hobby.
No basketball. I do have a handful of earlier cards- McGwire, Bonds etc. A few random things like a Lemieux rookie and #1 a/b Garbage Pail kids, etc. Lots of weird stuff like cards from Post cereal, Wonder bread, Fantastic Sam’s, KMart, etc. I’m too lazy to try to post individual cards so I’ll probably FB marketplace it at some point. Oh well.Anyone ever have luck dumping a whole collection? Ive got a ton of cards, mostly 87-92 stuff. Nothing graded or over the top valuable, but lots of decent cards. I’m assuming demand for that era is pretty weak, but I don’t really know what to do with it all.
Probably the worst 6 year span in card history.
Haha, I was thinking the same thing. Poor guy. At least you could have stuck it out til 93 and got those Jeter rookies.
Also assuming you're not talking basketball. 87-89 Fleer Basketball has decent value.
Gonna take a flyer and get one or two of these. That 1:1 auto is SICK. Worth a gamble.

I saw a guy on Twitter offering 100K, plane trip to his card shop and some other stuff, but I'm still taking bids!Gonna take a flyer and get one or two of these. That 1:1 auto is SICK. Worth a gamble.
I'll pay you 25k for it if you get it
Good luck!!

I saw a guy on Twitter offering 100K, plane trip to his card shop and some other stuff, but I'm still taking bids!Gonna take a flyer and get one or two of these. That 1:1 auto is SICK. Worth a gamble.
I'll pay you 25k for it if you get it
Good luck!!![]()
I've only ordered once directly from them (Others I've just got from eBay). Seems like it was a couple months if I remember right.I saw a guy on Twitter offering 100K, plane trip to his card shop and some other stuff, but I'm still taking bids!Gonna take a flyer and get one or two of these. That 1:1 auto is SICK. Worth a gamble.
I'll pay you 25k for it if you get it
Good luck!!![]()
lol
Yea that was Geoff, extremely low offer. So low it was probably done to gather more clicks. He has since upped his offer.
How long does it take from order to receipt of cards for these Topps now cards?
2 weeks?
4 months?
I have ordered a bunch of the Topps Now cards for baseball (Orioles), I usually get them in a couple of weeks.I've only ordered once directly from them (Others I've just got from eBay). Seems like it was a couple months if I remember right.I saw a guy on Twitter offering 100K, plane trip to his card shop and some other stuff, but I'm still taking bids!Gonna take a flyer and get one or two of these. That 1:1 auto is SICK. Worth a gamble.
I'll pay you 25k for it if you get it
Good luck!!![]()
lol
Yea that was Geoff, extremely low offer. So low it was probably done to gather more clicks. He has since upped his offer.
How long does it take from order to receipt of cards for these Topps now cards?
2 weeks?
4 months?

That’s awesome—but be careful—getting into breaks can be addictive. If you want to try a break with a company that is more “scheduled”—you might want to check into Layton Sports Cards. They have a break schedule, and they do a nice job keeping their breaks child friendly (their breakers don’t curse, and their chats on YouTube are moderated to be good for all ages).So my son, who collects mostly modern football cards, has been bugging the crap out of me to try a break. My challenge was that most breaks are unpredictable. You buy a team, and you wait and wait and wait for the break to fill. Sometimes a break that starts at 5:00 PM doesn't actually start ripping till hours later. He's 10. He's not staying up all night watching guys rip cards. I also fundamentally hate breaks. I feel like it's a crappy way to gamble, and it's also why it's impossible to find boxes at local retail stores that are fun for us to rip. I get breaks for high-end hobby stuff so you can buy a chance at a card, but these days, most of the breaks are for retail blasters and megas. Anyway - I digress.
My goal truthfully was to let him try a break, and hope it was awful so he'd leave me alone. I found DAcardworld.com has breaks that are scheduled and you buy in advance. There was a "Bills MNF Tailgate" break that was scheduled for 5:00 yesterday, so I bought in for a random team a few weeks ago. They did the random team selection at the start, and...drumroll please...we got the Browns.. From a break standpoint, there might not be a less attractive team to get. We watched the first few boxes and then he lost interest because there just weren't any good Browns cards. I thought my plan was working...until they finished the boxes, and did another randomization for the give-aways...a Keon Coleman signed mini-helmet, and a Trevor Lawrence signed jersey. Go figure - we won the T-Law jersey, and he's one of my son's favorite players. So now he thinks that's the kind of return you get from breaks, and can't wait to do another.
![]()
If you wanted to turn him off of breaking forever you should have had him join a Chip's Rips break.So my son, who collects mostly modern football cards, has been bugging the crap out of me to try a break. My challenge was that most breaks are unpredictable. You buy a team, and you wait and wait and wait for the break to fill. Sometimes a break that starts at 5:00 PM doesn't actually start ripping till hours later. He's 10. He's not staying up all night watching guys rip cards. I also fundamentally hate breaks. I feel like it's a crappy way to gamble, and it's also why it's impossible to find boxes at local retail stores that are fun for us to rip. I get breaks for high-end hobby stuff so you can buy a chance at a card, but these days, most of the breaks are for retail blasters and megas. Anyway - I digress.
My goal truthfully was to let him try a break, and hope it was awful so he'd leave me alone. I found DAcardworld.com has breaks that are scheduled and you buy in advance. There was a "Bills MNF Tailgate" break that was scheduled for 5:00 yesterday, so I bought in for a random team a few weeks ago. They did the random team selection at the start, and...drumroll please...we got the Browns.. From a break standpoint, there might not be a less attractive team to get. We watched the first few boxes and then he lost interest because there just weren't any good Browns cards. I thought my plan was working...until they finished the boxes, and did another randomization for the give-aways...a Keon Coleman signed mini-helmet, and a Trevor Lawrence signed jersey. Go figure - we won the T-Law jersey, and he's one of my son's favorite players. So now he thinks that's the kind of return you get from breaks, and can't wait to do another.
![]()
That’s awesome—but be careful—getting into breaks can be addictive. If you want to try a break with a company that is more “scheduled”—you might want to check into Layton Sports Cards. They have a break schedule, and they do a nice job keeping their breaks child friendly (their breakers don’t curse, and their chats on YouTube are moderated to be good for all ages).So my son, who collects mostly modern football cards, has been bugging the crap out of me to try a break. My challenge was that most breaks are unpredictable. You buy a team, and you wait and wait and wait for the break to fill. Sometimes a break that starts at 5:00 PM doesn't actually start ripping till hours later. He's 10. He's not staying up all night watching guys rip cards. I also fundamentally hate breaks. I feel like it's a crappy way to gamble, and it's also why it's impossible to find boxes at local retail stores that are fun for us to rip. I get breaks for high-end hobby stuff so you can buy a chance at a card, but these days, most of the breaks are for retail blasters and megas. Anyway - I digress.
My goal truthfully was to let him try a break, and hope it was awful so he'd leave me alone. I found DAcardworld.com has breaks that are scheduled and you buy in advance. There was a "Bills MNF Tailgate" break that was scheduled for 5:00 yesterday, so I bought in for a random team a few weeks ago. They did the random team selection at the start, and...drumroll please...we got the Browns.. From a break standpoint, there might not be a less attractive team to get. We watched the first few boxes and then he lost interest because there just weren't any good Browns cards. I thought my plan was working...until they finished the boxes, and did another randomization for the give-aways...a Keon Coleman signed mini-helmet, and a Trevor Lawrence signed jersey. Go figure - we won the T-Law jersey, and he's one of my son's favorite players. So now he thinks that's the kind of return you get from breaks, and can't wait to do another.
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LOLSo my son, who collects mostly modern football cards, has been bugging the crap out of me to try a break. My challenge was that most breaks are unpredictable. You buy a team, and you wait and wait and wait for the break to fill. Sometimes a break that starts at 5:00 PM doesn't actually start ripping till hours later. He's 10. He's not staying up all night watching guys rip cards. I also fundamentally hate breaks. I feel like it's a crappy way to gamble, and it's also why it's impossible to find boxes at local retail stores that are fun for us to rip. I get breaks for high-end hobby stuff so you can buy a chance at a card, but these days, most of the breaks are for retail blasters and megas. Anyway - I digress.
My goal truthfully was to let him try a break, and hope it was awful so he'd leave me alone. I found DAcardworld.com has breaks that are scheduled and you buy in advance. There was a "Bills MNF Tailgate" break that was scheduled for 5:00 yesterday, so I bought in for a random team a few weeks ago. They did the random team selection at the start, and...drumroll please...we got the Browns.. From a break standpoint, there might not be a less attractive team to get. We watched the first few boxes and then he lost interest because there just weren't any good Browns cards. I thought my plan was working...until they finished the boxes, and did another randomization for the give-aways...a Keon Coleman signed mini-helmet, and a Trevor Lawrence signed jersey. Go figure - we won the T-Law jersey, and he's one of my son's favorite players. So now he thinks that's the kind of return you get from breaks, and can't wait to do another.
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That’s awesome—but be careful—getting into breaks can be addictive. If you want to try a break with a company that is more “scheduled”—you might want to check into Layton Sports Cards. They have a break schedule, and they do a nice job keeping their breaks child friendly (their breakers don’t curse, and their chats on YouTube are moderated to be good for all ages).So my son, who collects mostly modern football cards, has been bugging the crap out of me to try a break. My challenge was that most breaks are unpredictable. You buy a team, and you wait and wait and wait for the break to fill. Sometimes a break that starts at 5:00 PM doesn't actually start ripping till hours later. He's 10. He's not staying up all night watching guys rip cards. I also fundamentally hate breaks. I feel like it's a crappy way to gamble, and it's also why it's impossible to find boxes at local retail stores that are fun for us to rip. I get breaks for high-end hobby stuff so you can buy a chance at a card, but these days, most of the breaks are for retail blasters and megas. Anyway - I digress.
My goal truthfully was to let him try a break, and hope it was awful so he'd leave me alone. I found DAcardworld.com has breaks that are scheduled and you buy in advance. There was a "Bills MNF Tailgate" break that was scheduled for 5:00 yesterday, so I bought in for a random team a few weeks ago. They did the random team selection at the start, and...drumroll please...we got the Browns.. From a break standpoint, there might not be a less attractive team to get. We watched the first few boxes and then he lost interest because there just weren't any good Browns cards. I thought my plan was working...until they finished the boxes, and did another randomization for the give-aways...a Keon Coleman signed mini-helmet, and a Trevor Lawrence signed jersey. Go figure - we won the T-Law jersey, and he's one of my son's favorite players. So now he thinks that's the kind of return you get from breaks, and can't wait to do another.
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Thanks for the recommendation - I'll check out Layton Sports Cards. I feel like I've seen their name before somewhere.
@Desert_Power - I've talked with him about the ROI on breaks and boxes before. He's a very smart kid for his age, especially in math, so he gets the concept. I've tried to tell him time and again to focus on singles of guys he wants, but I think he likes the thrill of opening packs, and seeing what's in them, which I totally get. For a while, I could get some decent boxes at reasonable prices. I got some older stuff off Ebay, and then would get some from Walmart/Target. Within the last few months, it's all dried up. People clean the stores out the second stock hits shelves, and then break them for profit.
I'm into vintage baseball and some modern hockey, so we collect together. Largely, I buy him a box here and there, and he decides what to do with what he gets from them. He's actually sold quite a few decent pulls. He's a fierce negotiator. He sold enough to buy a Justin Jefferson auto at the Philly show last week, which was a big goal of his. I think it's always going to be a balancing act between the economics of buying what you want vs. the thrill of hitting something in an overpriced box.
How was the Philly show?
I haven't been there in a couple years and had weekend plans this year.