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Bicycle Guys! (1 Viewer)

My rear brake (mechanical disc) sucks hard... I only use it to slow me down. If I need to stop I use the front one - which is not great, but gets the job done. Next bike is going to have hydraulic disc brakes.
Most of your stopping power is in the front. What you describe isn't uncommon, though rear rim brakes tend to be worse than discs.
 
My rear brake (mechanical disc) sucks hard... I only use it to slow me down. If I need to stop I use the front one - which is not great, but gets the job done. Next bike is going to have hydraulic disc brakes.
Make sure the rotor itself is straight/flat. I had a slightly bent one that was a pain in the butt to get right until I realized that was the issue.
 
My rear brake (mechanical disc) sucks hard... I only use it to slow me down. If I need to stop I use the front one - which is not great, but gets the job done. Next bike is going to have hydraulic disc brakes.
Brakes shouldn't suck. Even cheap'ish mechanical discs should stop you. Take it to a shop
 
Cable actuated mech disc? * if you’re mechanically inclined* You can adjust the pull of the lever and adjust throw of the piston.via cable.
If you’re not competent or have a doubt. Off to the shop.
 
Tomorrow I plan to buy ~25 year old Lemond Tourmalet for 80 bucks. The seller said the gear shifting isn't great and the chain is beat but he has still been riding it.

Is this a good deal? Is the frame worth $80? Maybe I will finally learn to be a bike mechanic. Probably not.

I haven't ridden a bike in a few years. And never a road bike. Will I be able to ride 33 miles back home? Barring a flat tire or getting horribly lost, I expect to do it in under 2 hours.
 
No mention of what the components are… frame rust free? Only one pic
I'm assuming no serious frame rust but the chain area does look bad in that one pic. Most of the components are old/original. He said the tires are recent. At $80, I shouldn't expect much. I am counting on him being honest when he said that he still rides the bike and is only selling because he is moving. If the bike is in horrible shape, I suppose I won't buy it.
 
Old steel frames can be a pleasure to ride... my gravel is a custom steel job and it’s fabulous.

I never assume what people can afford or want to choose to spend on a bicycle.
 
I still ride a 2003 Trek 800 almost daily. The shift knobs are falling apart but everything works great.

Until this thing becomes unreliable I see no reason to upgrade.
 
Is this a good deal? Is the frame worth $80? Maybe I will finally learn to be a bike mechanic. Probably not.

I haven't ridden a bike in a few years. And never a road bike. Will I be able to ride 33 miles back home? Barring a flat tire or getting horribly lost, I expect to do it in under 2 hours.
A nice steel frame is worth $80. And I hope you're a tall dude - that's a big frame.

You're wholly unrealistic on your ride home. If you were in Kansas, maybe 2 hours. In San Fran I highly doubt that you'd be able to do 33 miles in 2 hours. I'd bet more like 3, unless your ride is magically flat.
 
Is this a good deal? Is the frame worth $80? Maybe I will finally learn to be a bike mechanic. Probably not.

I haven't ridden a bike in a few years. And never a road bike. Will I be able to ride 33 miles back home? Barring a flat tire or getting horribly lost, I expect to do it in under 2 hours.
A nice steel frame is worth $80. And I hope you're a tall dude - that's a big frame.

You're wholly unrealistic on your ride home. If you were in Kansas, maybe 2 hours. In San Fran I highly doubt that you'd be able to do 33 miles in 2 hours. I'd bet more like 3, unless your ride is magically flat.
It took 2 hours and 50 minutes. I used to average 17-18 mph on my hybrids but I recognized fairly early that I was off the pace. I decided to catch the train after 11 miles but didn't want to back track to the station. The back of my neck was killing me from the start. I'm 6'7" so a 63cm frame still feels small. I also had not been able to get much of a breakfast at my free spot before leaving so I ate the little food that I packed and finished my water within 15 miles. Eventually I stopped at a store for a drink. The whole trip was probably about 35 miles and even if I subtract the 30 mins where I wasn't riding, at best I was averaging 15 mph.

The ride was really flat. The only hills begin as you enter south SF. The gear in the front is stuck on the big ring so I was struggling to keep climbing on those last few inclines. I showed the bike to a friendly guy at my LBS and he said it was a good purchase. The paint on the frame has cosmetic damage which limits its value but structurally it's fine and he didn't see a problem with the rust. He said the wheel set alone could be sold for $150.

I live among the hills of SF so I need to fix the shifting thing soon. On the positive side, I felt fine after the ride and now that I ate lunch and rested for a few hours, I could play basketball or go for a run.
 
Is this a good deal? Is the frame worth $80? Maybe I will finally learn to be a bike mechanic. Probably not.

I haven't ridden a bike in a few years. And never a road bike. Will I be able to ride 33 miles back home? Barring a flat tire or getting horribly lost, I expect to do it in under 2 hours.
A nice steel frame is worth $80. And I hope you're a tall dude - that's a big frame.

You're wholly unrealistic on your ride home. If you were in Kansas, maybe 2 hours. In San Fran I highly doubt that you'd be able to do 33 miles in 2 hours. I'd bet more like 3, unless your ride is magically flat.
It took 2 hours and 50 minutes. I used to average 17-18 mph on my hybrids but I recognized fairly early that I was off the pace. I decided to catch the train after 11 miles but didn't want to back track to the station. The back of my neck was killing me from the start. I'm 6'7" so a 63cm frame still feels small. I also had not been able to get much of a breakfast at my free spot before leaving so I ate the little food that I packed and finished my water within 15 miles. Eventually I stopped at a store for a drink. The whole trip was probably about 35 miles and even if I subtract the 30 mins where I wasn't riding, at best I was averaging 15 mph.

The ride was really flat. The only hills begin as you enter south SF. The gear in the front is stuck on the big ring so I was struggling to keep climbing on those last few inclines. I showed the bike to a friendly guy at my LBS and he said it was a good purchase. The paint on the frame has cosmetic damage which limits its value but structurally it's fine and he didn't see a problem with the rust. He said the wheel set alone could be sold for $150.

I live among the hills of SF so I need to fix the shifting thing soon. On the positive side, I felt fine after the ride and now that I ate lunch and rested for a few hours, I could play basketball or go for a run.
On your neck - I'm not a fan of the handlebar position; they appear to be tilted down a bit. Might be better if a bit more level. Also, If the bike is still small you may can find a seatpost with a bit more setback. That quill stem looks pretty long as it is from the pic.

Good deal on the ride home. 15mph on the flats is fine. At your height you're a big sail, so fast is tougher. If I was riding behind you I could kick up my feet on the handlebars and let your vacuum suck me along for 30 miles.
 
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Tomorrow I plan to buy ~25 year old Lemond Tourmalet for 80 bucks. The seller said the gear shifting isn't great and the chain is beat but he has still been riding it.

Is this a good deal? Is the frame worth $80? Maybe I will finally learn to be a bike mechanic. Probably not.

I haven't ridden a bike in a few years. And never a road bike. Will I be able to ride 33 miles back home? Barring a flat tire or getting horribly lost, I expect to do it in under 2 hours.
Coincidentally, the Vuelta is finishing on the Tourmalet next Friday 😉
 
My first day of repairs did not go great. I paid a $40 yearly membership to join a bicycle repair non-profit. The free lube, oils, and degreaser nearly cover the whole cost. All the tools and workstations are merely a bonus for a non-mechanical person like myself. There are some volunteers but you need to get there early and beg a bit to get their assistance.

Regarding my unresponsive front brifter, I read many people have had success spraying the gear line with WD-40 to loosen up build-up and then applying bike oil. My first problem was not even knowing where to spray. The front of the brifter that I opened in the pic? Or the actual cable opening just past the brifter?
Front Brifter

The WD-40 can had no spray nozzle so I used pressure to sort of spray into the opening at the front of the brifter. I thought it was successful when the front gear moved down to the smallest ring on the chain. But it's actually just stuck on the lowest ring now. The shifter is still not responsive. And I think I opened too much of the brifter. The tension is so great that I can't get the cover straight back on.

A little taste of bike mechanic stuff and I'm motivated to buy a new-ish hybrid. The Lemond is such rough riding in the city. Even if the gears worked, I doubt I'll ever enjoy riding it in the city.
Canyon Bikes
At $660 with shipping, tax, and referral code, considering components, etc., do you think there is a better deal than the Canyon Roadlite 5?
I can always find used XL hybrids on Craigslist for ~$200 but XXL are rare and sellers have always wanted closer to $400.
 
Is this a good deal? Is the frame worth $80? Maybe I will finally learn to be a bike mechanic. Probably not.

I haven't ridden a bike in a few years. And never a road bike. Will I be able to ride 33 miles back home? Barring a flat tire or getting horribly lost, I expect to do it in under 2 hours.
A nice steel frame is worth $80. And I hope you're a tall dude - that's a big frame.

You're wholly unrealistic on your ride home. If you were in Kansas, maybe 2 hours. In San Fran I highly doubt that you'd be able to do 33 miles in 2 hours. I'd bet more like 3, unless your ride is magically flat.
It took 2 hours and 50 minutes. I used to average 17-18 mph on my hybrids but I recognized fairly early that I was off the pace. I decided to catch the train after 11 miles but didn't want to back track to the station. The back of my neck was killing me from the start. I'm 6'7" so a 63cm frame still feels small. I also had not been able to get much of a breakfast at my free spot before leaving so I ate the little food that I packed and finished my water within 15 miles. Eventually I stopped at a store for a drink. The whole trip was probably about 35 miles and even if I subtract the 30 mins where I wasn't riding, at best I was averaging 15 mph.

The ride was really flat. The only hills begin as you enter south SF. The gear in the front is stuck on the big ring so I was struggling to keep climbing on those last few inclines. I showed the bike to a friendly guy at my LBS and he said it was a good purchase. The paint on the frame has cosmetic damage which limits its value but structurally it's fine and he didn't see a problem with the rust. He said the wheel set alone could be sold for $150.

I live among the hills of SF so I need to fix the shifting thing soon. On the positive side, I felt fine after the ride and now that I ate lunch and rested for a few hours, I could play basketball or go for a run.
On your neck - I'm not a fan of the handlebar position; they appear to be tilted down a bit. Might be better if a bit more level. Also, If the bike is still small you may can find a seatpost with a bit more setback. That quill stem looks pretty long as it is from the pic.

Good deal on the ride home. 15mph on the flats is fine. At your height you're a big sail, so fast is tougher. If I was riding behind you I could kick up my feet on the handlebars and let your vacuum suck me along for 30 miles.
Re-reading your post after visiting the bike kitchen and will definitely make both those adjustments on my next visit. The seat is nearly all the way forward. If I slide it back the 1.5 inches it allows, I can lower the stem 3/4 inch or so and be much more comfortable. Tilting the bar handle up should also work great. Thanks, again.
 
My first day of repairs did not go great. I paid a $40 yearly membership to join a bicycle repair non-profit. The free lube, oils, and degreaser nearly cover the whole cost. All the tools and workstations are merely a bonus for a non-mechanical person like myself. There are some volunteers but you need to get there early and beg a bit to get their assistance.

Regarding my unresponsive front brifter, I read many people have had success spraying the gear line with WD-40 to loosen up build-up and then applying bike oil. My first problem was not even knowing where to spray. The front of the brifter that I opened in the pic? Or the actual cable opening just past the brifter?
Front Brifter

The WD-40 can had no spray nozzle so I used pressure to sort of spray into the opening at the front of the brifter. I thought it was successful when the front gear moved down to the smallest ring on the chain. But it's actually just stuck on the lowest ring now. The shifter is still not responsive. And I think I opened too much of the brifter. The tension is so great that I can't get the cover straight back on.

A little taste of bike mechanic stuff and I'm motivated to buy a new-ish hybrid. The Lemond is such rough riding in the city. Even if the gears worked, I doubt I'll ever enjoy riding it in the city.
Canyon Bikes
At $660 with shipping, tax, and referral code, considering components, etc., do you think there is a better deal than the Canyon Roadlite 5?
I can always find used XL hybrids on Craigslist for ~$200 but XXL are rare and sellers have always wanted closer to $400.
Get the Canyon... triple check the sizing though, they are known to be a bit different than most.
 
My first day of repairs did not go great. I paid a $40 yearly membership to join a bicycle repair non-profit. The free lube, oils, and degreaser nearly cover the whole cost. All the tools and workstations are merely a bonus for a non-mechanical person like myself. There are some volunteers but you need to get there early and beg a bit to get their assistance.

Regarding my unresponsive front brifter, I read many people have had success spraying the gear line with WD-40 to loosen up build-up and then applying bike oil. My first problem was not even knowing where to spray. The front of the brifter that I opened in the pic? Or the actual cable opening just past the brifter?
Front Brifter

The WD-40 can had no spray nozzle so I used pressure to sort of spray into the opening at the front of the brifter. I thought it was successful when the front gear moved down to the smallest ring on the chain. But it's actually just stuck on the lowest ring now. The shifter is still not responsive. And I think I opened too much of the brifter. The tension is so great that I can't get the cover straight back on.

A little taste of bike mechanic stuff and I'm motivated to buy a new-ish hybrid. The Lemond is such rough riding in the city. Even if the gears worked, I doubt I'll ever enjoy riding it in the city.
Canyon Bikes
At $660 with shipping, tax, and referral code, considering components, etc., do you think there is a better deal than the Canyon Roadlite 5?
I can always find used XL hybrids on Craigslist for ~$200 but XXL are rare and sellers have always wanted closer to $400.
Get the Canyon... triple check the sizing though, they are known to be a bit different than most.
I was hoping to get free shipping or the Roadlite 6 for the same price but I should go ahead with the Canyon XXL.

I borrowed allen wrenches from the tent people down the street and made Sand's adjustments. It feels better.
 
My first day of repairs did not go great. I paid a $40 yearly membership to join a bicycle repair non-profit. The free lube, oils, and degreaser nearly cover the whole cost. All the tools and workstations are merely a bonus for a non-mechanical person like myself. There are some volunteers but you need to get there early and beg a bit to get their assistance.

Regarding my unresponsive front brifter, I read many people have had success spraying the gear line with WD-40 to loosen up build-up and then applying bike oil. My first problem was not even knowing where to spray. The front of the brifter that I opened in the pic? Or the actual cable opening just past the brifter?
Front Brifter

The WD-40 can had no spray nozzle so I used pressure to sort of spray into the opening at the front of the brifter. I thought it was successful when the front gear moved down to the smallest ring on the chain. But it's actually just stuck on the lowest ring now. The shifter is still not responsive. And I think I opened too much of the brifter. The tension is so great that I can't get the cover straight back on.

A little taste of bike mechanic stuff and I'm motivated to buy a new-ish hybrid. The Lemond is such rough riding in the city. Even if the gears worked, I doubt I'll ever enjoy riding it in the city.
Canyon Bikes
At $660 with shipping, tax, and referral code, considering components, etc., do you think there is a better deal than the Canyon Roadlite 5?
I can always find used XL hybrids on Craigslist for ~$200 but XXL are rare and sellers have always wanted closer to $400.
Get the Canyon... triple check the sizing though, they are known to be a bit different than most.
Been eyeing a Canyon Grizl, and yes, the sizing is off. I am a small in their bikes, by their calculations and I am always a medium for most bikes or maybe even a large for a few
 
My first day of repairs did not go great. I paid a $40 yearly membership to join a bicycle repair non-profit. The free lube, oils, and degreaser nearly cover the whole cost. All the tools and workstations are merely a bonus for a non-mechanical person like myself. There are some volunteers but you need to get there early and beg a bit to get their assistance.

Regarding my unresponsive front brifter, I read many people have had success spraying the gear line with WD-40 to loosen up build-up and then applying bike oil. My first problem was not even knowing where to spray. The front of the brifter that I opened in the pic? Or the actual cable opening just past the brifter?
Front Brifter

The WD-40 can had no spray nozzle so I used pressure to sort of spray into the opening at the front of the brifter. I thought it was successful when the front gear moved down to the smallest ring on the chain. But it's actually just stuck on the lowest ring now. The shifter is still not responsive. And I think I opened too much of the brifter. The tension is so great that I can't get the cover straight back on.

A little taste of bike mechanic stuff and I'm motivated to buy a new-ish hybrid. The Lemond is such rough riding in the city. Even if the gears worked, I doubt I'll ever enjoy riding it in the city.
Canyon Bikes
At $660 with shipping, tax, and referral code, considering components, etc., do you think there is a better deal than the Canyon Roadlite 5?
I can always find used XL hybrids on Craigslist for ~$200 but XXL are rare and sellers have always wanted closer to $400.
Get the Canyon... triple check the sizing though, they are known to be a bit different than most.
Been eyeing a Canyon Grizl, and yes, the sizing is off. I am a small in their bikes, by their calculations and I am always a medium for most bikes or maybe even a large for a few
Me too, the recent sales have made it hard for me not to pull the trigger.
 
My first day of repairs did not go great. I paid a $40 yearly membership to join a bicycle repair non-profit. The free lube, oils, and degreaser nearly cover the whole cost. All the tools and workstations are merely a bonus for a non-mechanical person like myself. There are some volunteers but you need to get there early and beg a bit to get their assistance.

Regarding my unresponsive front brifter, I read many people have had success spraying the gear line with WD-40 to loosen up build-up and then applying bike oil. My first problem was not even knowing where to spray. The front of the brifter that I opened in the pic? Or the actual cable opening just past the brifter?
Front Brifter

The WD-40 can had no spray nozzle so I used pressure to sort of spray into the opening at the front of the brifter. I thought it was successful when the front gear moved down to the smallest ring on the chain. But it's actually just stuck on the lowest ring now. The shifter is still not responsive. And I think I opened too much of the brifter. The tension is so great that I can't get the cover straight back on.

A little taste of bike mechanic stuff and I'm motivated to buy a new-ish hybrid. The Lemond is such rough riding in the city. Even if the gears worked, I doubt I'll ever enjoy riding it in the city.
Canyon Bikes
At $660 with shipping, tax, and referral code, considering components, etc., do you think there is a better deal than the Canyon Roadlite 5?
I can always find used XL hybrids on Craigslist for ~$200 but XXL are rare and sellers have always wanted closer to $400.
Get the Canyon... triple check the sizing though, they are known to be a bit different than most.
Been eyeing a Canyon Grizl, and yes, the sizing is off. I am a small in their bikes, by their calculations and I am always a medium for most bikes or maybe even a large for a few
Grizl ships free and people are always posting friend referral codes on Reddit for $100 off.
 
I'm developing bicycle tiers and trying to decide what to order for myself. Let me know your thoughts.

A tier: XXL Canyon Roadlite 5 $660 shipped, would need some self assembly, no local support.
B: XL Norco Indie 4 <$490 at LBS. 2 free tuneups, 1 year complimentary adjustments. Only 7 gears with tourney rear derailleur would likely limit both my high and low end. Stack and reach lead me to think I would fit on this bike.
C: Used bike on Craigslist. $275 for XL 2019 Specialized Sirrus Sport, $200 for XL 2017 Trek FX2, or $150 for XL 2011 Cannondale Quick.
D: Decathlon Bike Garage Sale
 
I purchased the Canyon Roadlite 5 for 650. Couldn't find a better deal on the used or new markets. I'm still gonna try to fix the issues with the Lemond but I will probably offer it for sale soon since my apartment is small.
 
I'm developing bicycle tiers and trying to decide what to order for myself. Let me know your thoughts.

A tier: XXL Canyon Roadlite 5 $660 shipped, would need some self assembly, no local support.
B: XL Norco Indie 4 <$490 at LBS. 2 free tuneups, 1 year complimentary adjustments. Only 7 gears with tourney rear derailleur would likely limit both my high and low end. Stack and reach lead me to think I would fit on this bike.
C: Used bike on Craigslist. $275 for XL 2019 Specialized Sirrus Sport, $200 for XL 2017 Trek FX2, or $150 for XL 2011 Cannondale Quick.
D: Decathlon Bike Garage Sale
:lmao: :lmao:

My tiers have a zero tagged onto the end of those.


I purchased the Canyon Roadlite 5 for 650. Couldn't find a better deal on the used or new markets. I'm still gonna try to fix the issues with the Lemond but I will probably offer it for sale soon since my apartment is small.
Good choice. This will serve you well for a long time.
 

Should I buy this bike? I offered the guy $50 and he said he would sell today for $75. Someone else offered him $75 but has been silent the last couple days. I can probably wait and get it for $50 but even $75 seems like a good deal. The bike is way too small for me. I came across it while looking for pumps. It has a hand pump, helmet (I should wear one but this is likely too small), and cheap lock included. The derailleurs are shimano 105. I suspect the fork might be carbon. Is there value here in parts?

My canyon bike arrived today. I have it in the box. Not a lot of space in my apartment and I was able to get the Lemond in the middle ring so I'm satisfied with it now as a commuter.
 

Should I buy this bike? I offered the guy $50 and he said he would sell today for $75. Someone else offered him $75 but has been silent the last couple days. I can probably wait and get it for $50 but even $75 seems like a good deal. The bike is way too small for me. I came across it while looking for pumps. It has a hand pump, helmet (I should wear one but this is likely too small), and cheap lock included. The derailleurs are shimano 105. I suspect the fork might be carbon. Is there value here in parts?

My canyon bike arrived today. I have it in the box. Not a lot of space in my apartment and I was able to get the Lemond in the middle ring so I'm satisfied with it now as a commuter.
No, you have a bike.
 
hi> new here

casual rider still pushing a 25 year old Giant. my middle aged back cannot handle being bent over and i only ride streets and paths now.

should i be looking at hybrids? straight road bike? any recommendations for a guy who knows names of bike companies but nothing about bikes at all?


TIA
 
hi> new here

casual rider still pushing a 25 year old Giant. my middle aged back cannot handle being bent over and i only ride streets and paths now.

should i be looking at hybrids? straight road bike? any recommendations for a guy who knows names of bike companies but nothing about bikes at all?


TIA
Flat bar hybrid. Designed to put you a bit higher than a road bike. Canyon, Giant, Trek, Specialized are good names. Entry level will be pretty similar between them.

Caveman33 just got a Canyon above.
 
hi> new here

casual rider still pushing a 25 year old Giant. my middle aged back cannot handle being bent over and i only ride streets and paths now.

should i be looking at hybrids? straight road bike? any recommendations for a guy who knows names of bike companies but nothing about bikes at all?


TIA

I would suggest a gravel bike. I much prefer drop handlebars and you get a ride that could do light off roading with wider tires than a road bike and more relaxed frame design. They are also great on roads and paths.
 
hi> new here

casual rider still pushing a 25 year old Giant. my middle aged back cannot handle being bent over and i only ride streets and paths now.

should i be looking at hybrids? straight road bike? any recommendations for a guy who knows names of bike companies but nothing about bikes at all?


TIA

I would suggest a gravel bike. I much prefer drop handlebars and you get a ride that could do light off roading with wider tires than a road bike and more relaxed frame design. They are also great on roads and paths.
This also works. Prices are a bit higher - something like a Redwood or a Giant Revolt (aluminum) may work well.
 
thanks for the suggestions. these look like bikes that would tear up my back, though. are the only more... upright.... bikes just the beach cruiser types?
 
thanks for the suggestions. these look like bikes that would tear up my back, though. are the only more... upright.... bikes just the beach cruiser types?
No. Walk into a Giant (or Trek, Specialized, etc.) dealer and tell them you are looking at the low end gravel bike or hybrid and see if they can have you try it out with a 60 degree stem or something similar. You can absolutely raise the bars a good bit, but will need to work with a shop to set you up right. This probably isn't a mail order DIY thing.
 

Should I buy this bike? I offered the guy $50 and he said he would sell today for $75. Someone else offered him $75 but has been silent the last couple days. I can probably wait and get it for $50 but even $75 seems like a good deal. The bike is way too small for me. I came across it while looking for pumps. It has a hand pump, helmet (I should wear one but this is likely too small), and cheap lock included. The derailleurs are shimano 105. I suspect the fork might be carbon. Is there value here in parts?

My canyon bike arrived today. I have it in the box. Not a lot of space in my apartment and I was able to get the Lemond in the middle ring so I'm satisfied with it now as a commuter.
No, you have a bike.
Would it be selfish of me?

I think the seller made mistakes in marketing (pricing at $1, no frame size listed, not great pictures, could use better close-ups and descriptions of the solid specs.) His ad is likely being filtered out, or unseen by potential buyers. Schwinn also has a bad reputation because casual riders know them for becoming a Walmart producer. I can't find this bike in the blue book but I bet it's 3rd party price is higher than $50. And while I don't have much space for bikes, worst case scenario, I could probably trade it at the bike repair non-profit where they have other old bikes and parts. Last time I was there, a guy was asking about their old road bikes in 54cm frame, hoping to get one at $100 or less. The non-profit bikes were worse than this one and priced higher.
 
thanks for the suggestions. these look like bikes that would tear up my back, though. are the only more... upright.... bikes just the beach cruiser types?
I went with the Canyon Roadlite 5 because the specs look comparable to Trek FX3, which costs ~350 more. If you got the Trek FX3 on sale, with free tune-ups/support from a local bike shop, it might be worth the extra cost.

In regards to your back, I think you can adapt to either a flat bar or a drop bar and make your back stronger/more resilient in the long run. Back tightness can be caused by many different things. I do daily groin stretches for something else and that seems to loosen up my back. Inactivity is terrible for our bodies. All my long term injuries tighten and ache when I relax for long periods. You could get a comfort bike and add risers to the handlebars but this crutch might rob you of developing a strong back.

What is your height and closest Craigslist city? Let us search for a good deal in your size.
 
thanks for the suggestions. these look like bikes that would tear up my back, though. are the only more... upright.... bikes just the beach cruiser types?
I went with the Canyon Roadlite 5 because the specs look comparable to Trek FX3, which costs ~350 more. If you got the Trek FX3 on sale, with free tune-ups/support from a local bike shop, it might be worth the extra cost.

In regards to your back, I think you can adapt to either a flat bar or a drop bar and make your back stronger/more resilient in the long run. Back tightness can be caused by many different things. I do daily groin stretches for something else and that seems to loosen up my back. Inactivity is terrible for our bodies. All my long term injuries tighten and ache when I relax for long periods. You could get a comfort bike and add risers to the handlebars but this crutch might rob you of developing a strong back.

What is your height and closest Craigslist city? Let us search for a good deal in your size.
i'm fairly active for my age (run, walk, bodyweight exercising) but only ride once a week so i'm just not conditioned to the back stretch of riding 60-90 minutes, i think.

i'm in GB, gb. so plenty of options around just not sure what to look for because it's been 25 years since i last bought a bike and all the variables have changed.
 
thanks for the suggestions. these look like bikes that would tear up my back, though. are the only more... upright.... bikes just the beach cruiser types?
I went with the Canyon Roadlite 5 because the specs look comparable to Trek FX3, which costs ~350 more. If you got the Trek FX3 on sale, with free tune-ups/support from a local bike shop, it might be worth the extra cost.

In regards to your back, I think you can adapt to either a flat bar or a drop bar and make your back stronger/more resilient in the long run. Back tightness can be caused by many different things. I do daily groin stretches for something else and that seems to loosen up my back. Inactivity is terrible for our bodies. All my long term injuries tighten and ache when I relax for long periods. You could get a comfort bike and add risers to the handlebars but this crutch might rob you of developing a strong back.

What is your height and closest Craigslist city? Let us search for a good deal in your size.
i'm fairly active for my age (run, walk, bodyweight exercising) but only ride once a week so i'm just not conditioned to the back stretch of riding 60-90 minutes, i think.

i'm in GB, gb. so plenty of options around just not sure what to look for because it's been 25 years since i last bought a bike and all the variables have changed.
Pickings look slim in GB. When I searched Trek FX, most the options were in Chicago. Here is what I found in M/L frame size:
202(?) Jamis Hudson for $250 This looks like a good deal on a lightly used comfortable cruiser.
200(?) Felt F80 for $300 You can probably negotiate the price down. Old road bike with shimano 105.
198(?) Fuji Monterey for $75 The same seller has other "vintage" bikes for sale around $75. You could probably find something decent among his stable.
 
So I'm thinking of getting a new bike. My old mountain bike is collection dust and been reading the thread the Canyon roadlite 5 looks right up my alley - although I don't understand the differences between the 2 roadlite 5s they have listed.

What would be the difference between that and a gravel bike mentioned above. This would be 95% riding through the neighborhoods (maybe through one of the local trails)
 
So I'm thinking of getting a new bike. My old mountain bike is collection dust and been reading the thread the Canyon roadlite 5 looks right up my alley - although I don't understand the differences between the 2 roadlite 5s they have listed.

What would be the difference between that and a gravel bike mentioned above. This would be 95% riding through the neighborhoods (maybe through one of the local trails)
The only differences I saw between the two Roadlite 5s are color (neither great imo), drivetrain: Shimano Deore (or maybe Shimano Cues) vs SRAM APEX, and 17x20MM vs 19x19MM Alex Rims
The Canyon sale just ended so the price went up $100 to $699. They also charge $100 for shipping. There are friend referral codes which can get $100 off.

Canyon's cheapest gravel bike right now is Grizl 6 for $1,299. It probably has better components, weighs less, drop handlebars and wider wheels. If most of your riding is on well paved roads, a hybrid like Roadlite should perform fine. Even a little bit of grass or dirt trail should be fine. I've never ridden a gravel bike. I assume the Grizl 6 would beat the Roadlite 5 in a race on paved roads.
 
So I'm thinking of getting a new bike. My old mountain bike is collection dust and been reading the thread the Canyon roadlite 5 looks right up my alley - although I don't understand the differences between the 2 roadlite 5s they have listed.
Shimano gearing or SRAM gearing. I doubt there is much practical difference for thumb shifting, but you can search for pictures of each to see. And different colors.


What would be the difference between that and a gravel bike mentioned above. This would be 95% riding through the neighborhoods (maybe through one of the local trails)
Gravel bikes are a bit more high end and have better components. They also tend to be drop bars rather than flat bars. The Grizl, at least, has a lot more connection points for carrying stuff. It also has bigger tire clearance (50mm, vs. about 38 for the Roadlite) for chunkier stuff. Gravel bikes usually have tubeless tires with sealant, so handle punctures way better.
 
yeah 500-600 is more my liking

I remember building out my BMX bike as a teen - so much fun - now I have no idea lol

I spent $600 on individual parts in 1985 lol
 
If most of your riding is on well paved roads, a hybrid like Roadlite should perform fine. Even a little bit of grass or dirt trail should be fine. I've never ridden a gravel bike. I assume the Grizl 6 would beat the Roadlite 5 in a race on paved roads.
I agree here. Biggest difference is going to be what kind of bars and shifters you want. Speed wise they're generally equivalent with same tires. Knobbies vs. slick tread is where all the speed is in these things.
 
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yeah 500-600 is more my liking

I remember building out my BMX bike as a teen - so much fun - now I have no idea lol

I spent $600 on individual parts in 1985 lol
If you're on well heeled trails and like flat bars the Roadlite or something similar will do you fine.
Its more about just getting my fat *** out of the house more often and not just walking..... I won't be doing any hardcore trail riding and i don't want a regular road bike. I seriously considered just getting a single gear to relive my BMX days lol
 

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