CGRdrJoe
Footballguy
now you’re ready to try it on a real course and not mini golf i kid i kidAchievement Unlocked!
18 holes, 1 ball.
now you’re ready to try it on a real course and not mini golf i kid i kidAchievement Unlocked!
18 holes, 1 ball.
Big Cedar is awesome. Buffalo Ridge is so underrated and two fun short courses (Top of the Rock, Mountaintop) as well. Bandon is great but for all the reasons you mentioned it takes just a bit of shine off.Hmmmmm I have that option this summer. I think quoted ~$10k (group offering has a few "ballers" with their own private jets an ****). I already committed $4k to a Pebble trip in November, though. Not sure if I can get away with two trips in one year.I'll echo this. I think my trip there cost me six or seven grand. Played all the courses. In hindsight, I would have happily paid 20 grand or more for that experience. So, so great.2024 was a weird golf year for me.
Highs:
- Trip to Bandon Dunes. I think if you love golf, you have to find a way to make a pilgrimage there once in your life.
Happy to fill your seat if you're too busy.....
Bandon is my dream trip. We were planning to go this upcoming October, but the change in their reservation system (turning it into a total lottery) turned my group off and the trip fell apart. Obviously Pebble is amazing though. Likely better weather, easier to get to and Pebble itself is probably more of a bucket list course than any of the courses at Bandon.
At Bandon you run the risk of blow you off the planet, round-ruining weather and it SUCKS to get there. But the per-round cost is much cheaper (even in peak season, first round of the day only costs like $370...and then 2nd round is half price) and you get FIVE top 100 public courses (plus the 2 short courses). Obviously you can play Spyglass and Spanish Bay, but IMO...unless you have a way onto Cypress, Bandon is the better trip.
I think my dad, my brothers and I are going to Big Cedar Lodge this fall. Nothing official yet, but its at the top of the list. Would LOVE to do the Bandon trip with them, but my youngest brother is only a VERY casual golfer and I dont think my dad (just turned 75) would be able to make the walks there 4 or 5 days in a row.
Whatever wood best fits your specs along with whatever shaft best fits your specs.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
This might sound like a dismissive answer but it's accurate. Whatever the fitting says to get, get it. The shaft is at least as important as the head brand. You may end up with a Titleist/70g shaft or a Srixon/40g. It's all in your swing and that's what fittings are for.Whatever wood best fits your specs along with whatever shaft best fits your specs.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
FWIW, idk how good you are or if others who know more will disagree, but I find the hybrid to be the most important, consistent, and most used club in my bag. If or when I ever update clubs and get re-fit, if I can't pay for the whole bag at once I'm definitely going hybrid first in purchase order.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
Sand traps aside, I'm decent. Put me on a course with room for error and if I'm on I can shoot par, if I'm off mid-80's. On a challenging course? I'm always due for a couple blow-ups, usually when sand is involved, so best case is break 80 and can easily shoot well into the 90's. Guessing that probably comes out to a 15 handicap give or take.FWIW, idk how good you are or if others who know more will disagree, but I find the hybrid to be the most important, consistent, and most used club in my bag. If or when I ever update clubs and get re-fit, if I can't pay for the whole bag at once I'm definitely going hybrid first in purchase order.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
No offense but if you can shoot par you are like a 5Sand traps aside, I'm decent. Put me on a course with room for error and if I'm on I can shoot par, if I'm off mid-80's. On a challenging course? I'm always due for a couple blow-ups, usually when sand is involved, so best case is break 80 and can easily shoot well into the 90's. Guessing that probably comes out to a 15 handicap give or take.FWIW, idk how good you are or if others who know more will disagree, but I find the hybrid to be the most important, consistent, and most used club in my bag. If or when I ever update clubs and get re-fit, if I can't pay for the whole bag at once I'm definitely going hybrid first in purchase order.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
But, at the point of contact, I'm fairly consistent. Directionally challenged, which is why I'm blow-up prone, but generally steady contact. I don't have an iron under 5, that's my 185 club. I make okay contact with my 3 wood, the problem is it's ancient, so much over 200 is usually reliant on dry ground. I seem to be 225+ out more often than ~200 (par 5's), which is why I'm leaning 3 wood before hybrid, but I can be convinced.
I was gonna say I'm a 14.4 and basically my line is if I break 85 it was an awesome day, high 80s I played well, mid or high 90s I played like crap.No offense but if you can shoot par you are like a 5Sand traps aside, I'm decent. Put me on a course with room for error and if I'm on I can shoot par, if I'm off mid-80's. On a challenging course? I'm always due for a couple blow-ups, usually when sand is involved, so best case is break 80 and can easily shoot well into the 90's. Guessing that probably comes out to a 15 handicap give or take.FWIW, idk how good you are or if others who know more will disagree, but I find the hybrid to be the most important, consistent, and most used club in my bag. If or when I ever update clubs and get re-fit, if I can't pay for the whole bag at once I'm definitely going hybrid first in purchase order.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
But, at the point of contact, I'm fairly consistent. Directionally challenged, which is why I'm blow-up prone, but generally steady contact. I don't have an iron under 5, that's my 185 club. I make okay contact with my 3 wood, the problem is it's ancient, so much over 200 is usually reliant on dry ground. I seem to be 225+ out more often than ~200 (par 5's), which is why I'm leaning 3 wood before hybrid, but I can be convinced.
I feel attackedmid or high 90s I played like crap.
The lowest I ever was was a 6.2. I still have never shot par. One away a couple. 2 away a bunch now I'm 7-9.... High 70s to low 80s. I have dipped into a 90 here and there stillI was gonna say I'm a 14.4 and basically my line is if I break 85 it was an awesome day, high 80s I played well, mid or high 90s I played like crap.No offense but if you can shoot par you are like a 5Sand traps aside, I'm decent. Put me on a course with room for error and if I'm on I can shoot par, if I'm off mid-80's. On a challenging course? I'm always due for a couple blow-ups, usually when sand is involved, so best case is break 80 and can easily shoot well into the 90's. Guessing that probably comes out to a 15 handicap give or take.FWIW, idk how good you are or if others who know more will disagree, but I find the hybrid to be the most important, consistent, and most used club in my bag. If or when I ever update clubs and get re-fit, if I can't pay for the whole bag at once I'm definitely going hybrid first in purchase order.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
But, at the point of contact, I'm fairly consistent. Directionally challenged, which is why I'm blow-up prone, but generally steady contact. I don't have an iron under 5, that's my 185 club. I make okay contact with my 3 wood, the problem is it's ancient, so much over 200 is usually reliant on dry ground. I seem to be 225+ out more often than ~200 (par 5's), which is why I'm leaning 3 wood before hybrid, but I can be convinced.
I can shoot par on a muni type of course with sparse trees, forgiving rough, and little-to-no sand That's where steady contact and directionally challenged does not go punished! I don't track things like fairways hit and GIR, but if I did they wouldn't be great. I'm a good chipper though. If it's on that day and I'm hitting the 7-10 footers then I can make a run at par on those types of courses. That's not the case at more challenging layouts where ~5 yards wide can quickly lead to a double no matter what I do.No offense but if you can shoot par you are like a 5
HahahaI feel attackedmid or high 90s I played like crap.
That's a really good 4i distance, IMO.Love all this fitting talk.
My coach said that Dragonfly is one of the best local places to get fitted. My plan is to get a driver next month and continue to use the irons I have until the summer then re-evaluate. That'll give me about a year of playing and practicing to then get fitted for irons.
I am very interested in the hybrid vs woods vs long irons talk too. My 4i is about 210-220 off the deck and I was already leaning towards a set that included a 3I instead of a hybrid because my swing seems to fit the irons really well...so far
Double+ avoidance is the biggest difference between an 18 and an 8.down to an 11.7, I've really worked on just staying in play and minimizing chances to make doubles. Played the same ball now for 54 holes which means I'll lose it tomorrow if I'm able to play
Yep my fitter won't even use the terms. He uses like half points on a point scale up to seven or something?And a little more on the shaft and how counterintuitive it can be in picking one.
On a good swing, I max out at around 95mph head speed. So one might think I could benefit from a lighter shaft. That may add a couple yards...but the resultant affect on my tempo is not worth it. So I actually have a heavier than normal 70g shaft, which fits my tempo, and my friends are all jealous of how many fairways I hit. I may be shorter off the tree but being in the short stuff is critical to an average golfer like me.
Also, each shaft manufacturer plays around with their flexes so much terms like Stiff and Regular don't have equal meaning between them. A stiff in one may be a regular in another. So that's another way fittings help.
When I got fitted for my driver last year, the guy asked if I wanted to try fairway woods as well. I said sure, since I'm here, though I'm pretty happy with my 3w and 4-rescue, both old Taylor Made burners. After about 5 swings he said, "those are the right clubs for your swing. You're not going to gain anything with new woods, at least not that would justify the cost."This might sound like a dismissive answer but it's accurate. Whatever the fitting says to get, get it. The shaft is at least as important as the head brand. You may end up with a Titleist/70g shaft or a Srixon/40g. It's all in your swing and that's what fittings are for.Whatever wood best fits your specs along with whatever shaft best fits your specs.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
And a little more on the shaft and how counterintuitive it can be in picking one.
On a good swing, I max out at around 95mph head speed. So one might think I could benefit from a lighter shaft. That may add a couple yards...but the resultant affect on my tempo is not worth it. So I actually have a heavier than normal 70g shaft, which fits my tempo, and my friends are all jealous of how many fairways I hit. I may be shorter off the tree but being in the short stuff is critical to an average golfer like me.
Also, each shaft manufacturer plays around with their flexes so much terms like Stiff and Regular don't have equal meaning between them. A stiff in one may be a regular in another. So that's another way fittings help.
Somewhat of a rant forthcoming here, but if you guys can take away anything from me on this thread it's that there is no such thing as "the best club." There is only "the best club for you." And by club I mean the clubhead and the shaft. In other words, when your buddy comes to you and say or some rando on a message posts something like, "You gotta go get this new Ping driver! It's the best!," please, please, please understand that such may not be the case FOR YOU.
I firmly stand by the above for a few reasons. First, golf tech has been basically maxed out and, when considering the new ball change rule, it seems unlikely that the rules will permit significant advancements any time soon. As such, the major manufacturers are all pretty good across the board and while they do release new versions of their top of the line clubs every year, we are likely talking about minimal differences and improvements between brands and models.
Second, the above totally discounts the most important tech in the club which is the shaft. The shaft is the part of the club that actually impacts swing speed, launch angle, and much of the spin rate. So, a golfer could have the best clubhead ever made, but if it's at the end of the subpar shaft, then it's still going to be a "bad" club overall.
Third, we are all different so, naturally, we all have different swings (as much as we'd all probably want to be Adam Scott, Vijay Singh, or Fred Couples with their beautiful natural swings - we aren't). And, it's the swing and all that goes with it that determines whether a club is good for that individual as the club needs to comport to the swing characteristics. So, while Tiger's irons are wonderful tech, they are designed for the rare golfer who always find the face and doesn't need any forgiveness in the club. Using myself as an example (because I am an oddity) my natural swing generates a massively high spin rate and I naturally hit a high ball flight. So, when I fit into my clubs, every part of the build was designed to lower spin and lower ball flight. This is in contrast to most golfers, such as my wife, who had need their clubs to assist in generating spin and raising ball flight. Accordingly, if not obvious, my wife's game would be a disaster if she hit my "good clubs" and mine would be a similar disaster (I'd likely be launching and spinning balls off the planet) if I used hers.
In short, when you think about what constitutes a good club think about bicycles and how Lance Armstrong, arguably the greatest cyclist ever, would inevitably lose a bike race to a four year old if both had to use tricycles. Because that same concept applies as much to golf clubs.
THAT'S NEITHER TRUE NOR WHAT I SAID!!!!!!!11111 It's more like a blind man tossing a grenade.Somewhat of a rant forthcoming here, but if you guys can take away anything from me on this thread it's that there is no such thing as "the best club." There is only "the best club for you." And by club I mean the clubhead and the shaft. In other words, when your buddy comes to you and say or some rando on a message posts something like, "You gotta go get this new Ping driver! It's the best!," please, please, please understand that such may not be the case FOR YOU.
I firmly stand by the above for a few reasons. First, golf tech has been basically maxed out and, when considering the new ball change rule, it seems unlikely that the rules will permit significant advancements any time soon. As such, the major manufacturers are all pretty good across the board and while they do release new versions of their top of the line clubs every year, we are likely talking about minimal differences and improvements between brands and models.
Second, the above totally discounts the most important tech in the club which is the shaft. The shaft is the part of the club that actually impacts swing speed, launch angle, and much of the spin rate. So, a golfer could have the best clubhead ever made, but if it's at the end of the subpar shaft, then it's still going to be a "bad" club overall.
Third, we are all different so, naturally, we all have different swings (as much as we'd all probably want to be Adam Scott, Vijay Singh, or Fred Couples with their beautiful natural swings - we aren't). And, it's the swing and all that goes with it that determines whether a club is good for that individual as the club needs to comport to the swing characteristics. So, while Tiger's irons are wonderful tech, they are designed for the rare golfer who always find the face and doesn't need any forgiveness in the club. Using myself as an example (because I am an oddity) my natural swing generates a massively high spin rate and I naturally hit a high ball flight. So, when I fit into my clubs, every part of the build was designed to lower spin and lower ball flight. This is in contrast to most golfers, such as my wife, who had need their clubs to assist in generating spin and raising ball flight. Accordingly, if not obvious, my wife's game would be a disaster if she hit my "good clubs" and mine would be a similar disaster (I'd likely be launching and spinning balls off the planet) if I used hers.
In short, when you think about what constitutes a good club think about bicycles and how Lance Armstrong, arguably the greatest cyclist ever, would inevitably lose a bike race to a four year old if both had to use tricycles. Because that same concept applies as much to golf clubs.
LOOK AT ME!!! I HIT IT HIGH AND FAR AND IT LANDS AS SOFT AS A BUTTERFLY WITH SORE FEET!!!!!!
You can shoot par and are bad in bunkers? That’s unusual but great. Green side bunker shots are easy unless it’s a really bad lie. All technique. I was bad because I couldn’t consistently enter the sand where I intended. More often than not fell back, hit too far behind the ball and bounce skidded to the ball. Only in firm sand (our course is all firm sand). Once I got a lesson and got weight left for downward strike, squared stance, ball lined with front foot, and focused on hitting my exact spot I’m getting out every time with a putt to save par. My instructor drew a line in the sand and had me take a bunch of swings trying to enter at the line. No ball. I was so off at first. No wonder I struggled. Tight now.Sand traps aside, I'm decent. Put me on a course with room for error and if I'm on I can shoot par, if I'm off mid-80's. On a challenging course? I'm always due for a couple blow-ups, usually when sand is involved, so best case is break 80 and can easily shoot well into the 90's. Guessing that probably comes out to a 15 handicap give or take.FWIW, idk how good you are or if others who know more will disagree, but I find the hybrid to be the most important, consistent, and most used club in my bag. If or when I ever update clubs and get re-fit, if I can't pay for the whole bag at once I'm definitely going hybrid first in purchase order.Any recommendations for new woods? I got a new set of irons last year (Callaway Smoke), so time for the next level. I've received a green light for a driver this spring and a strong maybe for a 3 wood by summer. Hybrids may be a year out, but we'll see how much we sink into our home improvement budget.
I got a club fitting with a highly regarded local pro for xmas, so we're good there, just hunting for some ideas before setting that appointment. Not in any rush, coaching responsibilities heavily limit my availability through mid-May, so it's possible I don't tee one up until Memorial Day weekend.
But, at the point of contact, I'm fairly consistent. Directionally challenged, which is why I'm blow-up prone, but generally steady contact. I don't have an iron under 5, that's my 185 club. I make okay contact with my 3 wood, the problem is it's ancient, so much over 200 is usually reliant on dry ground. I seem to be 225+ out more often than ~200 (par 5's), which is why I'm leaning 3 wood before hybrid, but I can be convinced.
thread title
You nailed it with the bolded. All technique. I get by because I played a lot as a youth. Never tracked, but at least one tournament per week during summer, with two rounds minimum around it. I chose running over it in high school then it fell by the wayside in college then early fatherhood. As free time has opened up again, I have progressed from a few scrambles per summer to 10-15 rounds. Once I did, muscle memory returned, and since I'm quite a bit stronger now than aged 15 the ball goes a lot further. That said, the 'shot making' swings are still a miss. Like Woz, I can hit the ball a mile in the air- the trajectory of my 7 iron looks more like a wedge. When I need an easy fade, I can pull that out of my bag of tricks at will. But stuff like the big draw? the low liner? and anything out of the sand? I'm still looking. I find the big draw by accident on occasion, but any attempts at intentionally doing it have been comically bad.You can shoot par and are bad in bunkers? That’s unusual but great. Green side bunker shots are easy unless it’s a really bad lie. All technique.
When I took sand lessons it was shocking to see how inconsistent I was entering the spot I wanted in the sand. Pro drew a line and I just had to drill entering at that line every time. Assuming right bounce for you. I mostly use a 58 with less bounce because our sand is compact. But a fluffy sand like in Florida probably better suited to a 54 and more bounce to glide throughYou nailed it with the bolded. All technique. I get by because I played a lot as a youth. Never tracked, but at least one tournament per week during summer, with two rounds minimum around it. I chose running over it in high school then it fell by the wayside in college then early fatherhood. As free time has opened up again, I have progressed from a few scrambles per summer to 10-15 rounds. Once I did, muscle memory returned, and since I'm quite a bit stronger now than aged 15 the ball goes a lot further. That said, the 'shot making' swings are still a miss. Like Woz, I can hit the ball a mile in the air- the trajectory of my 7 iron looks more like a wedge. When I need an easy fade, I can pull that out of my bag of tricks at will. But stuff like the big draw? the low liner? and anything out of the sand? I'm still looking. I find the big draw by accident on occasion, but any attempts at intentionally doing it have been comically bad.You can shoot par and are bad in bunkers? That’s unusual but great. Green side bunker shots are easy unless it’s a really bad lie. All technique.
I know the first step to correction. Lessons. I'm just not in a place right now in which I'm going to think about them. In the meantime, I'm embracing my high variance golf game. Although maybe a few months from now I can add another 20 yards from distance.
All good info ... For people that have trouble I tell the equate it to a flop shot in grass.When I took sand lessons it was shocking to see how inconsistent I was entering the spot I wanted in the sand. Pro drew a line and I just had to drill entering at that line every time. Assuming right bounce for you. I mostly use a 58 with less bounce because our sand is compact. But a fluffy sand like in Florida probably better suited to a 54 and more bounce to glide throughYou nailed it with the bolded. All technique. I get by because I played a lot as a youth. Never tracked, but at least one tournament per week during summer, with two rounds minimum around it. I chose running over it in high school then it fell by the wayside in college then early fatherhood. As free time has opened up again, I have progressed from a few scrambles per summer to 10-15 rounds. Once I did, muscle memory returned, and since I'm quite a bit stronger now than aged 15 the ball goes a lot further. That said, the 'shot making' swings are still a miss. Like Woz, I can hit the ball a mile in the air- the trajectory of my 7 iron looks more like a wedge. When I need an easy fade, I can pull that out of my bag of tricks at will. But stuff like the big draw? the low liner? and anything out of the sand? I'm still looking. I find the big draw by accident on occasion, but any attempts at intentionally doing it have been comically bad.You can shoot par and are bad in bunkers? That’s unusual but great. Green side bunker shots are easy unless it’s a really bad lie. All technique.
I know the first step to correction. Lessons. I'm just not in a place right now in which I'm going to think about them. In the meantime, I'm embracing my high variance golf game. Although maybe a few months from now I can add another 20 yards from distance.
1) square stance. The way open stance method with swing following that foot line is old school. Much easier being square.
2) ball positioned at left toe
3) club face open, pointing up. Don’t want to dig unless sand is wet/compact or ball is buried. Less open or square in those cases will get the needed dig
4) 65% of weight on left side to promote descending blow
5) eyes on spot you want to enter the sand. Not on the ball. You must enter the spot. How far from the ball depends on the sand. With fluffy sand you can hit 1-2 inches behind the ball. Can’t do that with firm green side bunker sand. I aim about a 1/2 inch behind in those cases. Have to be much more precise
6) shallow is better than a steep dig
7) length of swing and speed depends on height and carry you need
8) accelerate and take out the sand underneath the ball, popping it up. Want to hear a good “thump”. Like the Dave Pelz drill where he has the ball sitting on a mound of sand on a wooden board. Gives you the visual/sensation.
If you have a descending blow and hit your spot you will get out almost every time and be putting. Disaster happens when you miss your spot. Ball first? Dead. Too far from the ball? Dead. Either you leave it in the bunker in soft sand or the bounce skids and you blade the ball, watching it line drive into the face of the bunker or scream across the green. Both are bad. Did I say how critical it is to hit your exact spot with a descending blow?
Now if I can hit the correct spot/low point on my full shots I’d be in business. Trying video lessons at GolfTec to ingrain that. Also bought the BlueBrick. Time to go to work!
When I took sand lessons it was shocking to see how inconsistent I was entering the spot I wanted in the sand. Pro drew a line and I just had to drill entering at that line every time. Assuming right bounce for you. I mostly use a 58 with less bounce because our sand is compact. But a fluffy sand like in Florida probably better suited to a 54 and more bounce to glide throughYou nailed it with the bolded. All technique. I get by because I played a lot as a youth. Never tracked, but at least one tournament per week during summer, with two rounds minimum around it. I chose running over it in high school then it fell by the wayside in college then early fatherhood. As free time has opened up again, I have progressed from a few scrambles per summer to 10-15 rounds. Once I did, muscle memory returned, and since I'm quite a bit stronger now than aged 15 the ball goes a lot further. That said, the 'shot making' swings are still a miss. Like Woz, I can hit the ball a mile in the air- the trajectory of my 7 iron looks more like a wedge. When I need an easy fade, I can pull that out of my bag of tricks at will. But stuff like the big draw? the low liner? and anything out of the sand? I'm still looking. I find the big draw by accident on occasion, but any attempts at intentionally doing it have been comically bad.You can shoot par and are bad in bunkers? That’s unusual but great. Green side bunker shots are easy unless it’s a really bad lie. All technique.
I know the first step to correction. Lessons. I'm just not in a place right now in which I'm going to think about them. In the meantime, I'm embracing my high variance golf game. Although maybe a few months from now I can add another 20 yards from distance.
1) square stance. The way open stance method with swing following that foot line is old school. Much easier being square.
2) ball positioned at left toe
3) club face open, pointing up. Don’t want to dig unless sand is wet/compact or ball is buried. Less open or square in those cases will get the needed dig
4) 65% of weight on left side to promote descending blow
5) eyes on spot you want to enter the sand. Not on the ball. You must enter the spot. How far from the ball depends on the sand. With fluffy sand you can hit 1-2 inches behind the ball. Can’t do that with firm green side bunker sand. I aim about a 1/2 inch behind in those cases. Have to be much more precise
6) shallow is better than a steep dig
7) length of swing and speed depends on height and carry you need
8) accelerate and take out the sand underneath the ball, popping it up. Want to hear a good “thump”. Like the Dave Pelz drill where he has the ball sitting on a mound of sand on a wooden board. Gives you the visual/sensation.
If you have a descending blow and hit your spot you will get out almost every time and be putting. Disaster happens when you miss your spot. Ball first? Dead. Too far from the ball? Dead. Either you leave it in the bunker in soft sand or the bounce skids and you blade the ball, watching it line drive into the face of the bunker or scream across the green. Both are bad. Did I say how critical it is to hit your exact spot with a descending blow?
Now if I can hit the correct spot/low point on my full shots I’d be in business. Trying video lessons at GolfTec to ingrain that. Also bought the BlueBrick. Time to go to work!
97 at the first course with super ****tiy putting. I left two birdie putts a total of 1" short*.Kept my borrowed driver in the bag for a few rounds this weekend. Let’s see how this goes
Just did it again.now you’re ready to try it on a real course and not mini golf i kid i kidAchievement Unlocked!
18 holes, 1 ball.
nice, i missed my window to golf with the flu (thanks vegas) and now we have rain forecasted for the next weekJust did it again.now you’re ready to try it on a real course and not mini golf i kid i kidAchievement Unlocked!
18 holes, 1 ball.
99 on a course i've shot 108 and 102 previously.
I hade THREE BIRDIE PUTTS
three putted all of them, one three putt was from 15ft
I can't stand playing with anything covering my forearms and/or limiting mobility. I'd rather be cold.Also played this weekend and:
Started off cold. Was gonna warm up but had to wear a real jacket. Range was awful. First hole tee shot garbage. Immediately d codes not to keep a scorecard, just have fun, practice round.
First five holes were terrible but I was relaxed and enjoying hanging out, working on some stingers, trying to shape stuff kinda goofing off. Sixth hole another god awful tee shot.
But it warmed up so I took off the puffy jacket. Hit the best shot of the round. And the next twelve too good Lord. Played even par 6-7-8-9. Kept a back nine score... 6 over.