Pinewood Derby (1 Viewer)

[Disco Stu]

My son and I started working on his new car Sunday. My link

We went really basic with the shape. Top side is facing up in the picture. Hole is for this canopy/weight. Also ordered some of this putty for the additional weight. I figure multiple putty holes drilled in the bottom side will be an easy way to get the center of mass where we want it. And then obviously it's easy to adjust at official weigh-in.

The front of the car is cut opposite of how you would expect from an aerodynamics standpoint. But I'm hoping that is more than made up for by allowing a quicker start. I figure it will start moving with the starting pin, instead of having to wait until the pin is completely clear. Just a theory though. I haven't seen anyone recommending that style.

We bought Rust-oleum primer and paint. Does anyone have recommended sanding/priming/painting instructions? To make up for the boring body, we'd like it to at least be very smooth and shiny. (that's what she said?)

Well, you asked for some recommendations. Mine is to use Duplicolor Mirage Ice instead of the Rust-oleum. The Duplicolor is a 3-part system that is very, very, easy to use and results in an amazingly vibrant, shiny paint job. You can get Duplicolor at most auto shops like AutoZone.First, get a Duplicolor high build primer. Paint the primer on in several thin coats. Don't over due it or you'll get runs. Wet/dry sand the primer after you have a few coats laid down. Then put on the Duplicolor. First you put down the base coats, then you apply the color coats, then you'll apply clear coats. Each coat dries in about 10 minutes, but I would wait even a little longer between coats. You can wet/dry between layers, but it probably isn't necessary, and you might sand through the layer.

BTW, the canopy weight is nice, but it's only 2.5 ounces. You might need something else besides the tungsten putty. Good luck.

Thanks. That Duplicolor Mirage paint looks really cool, but I probably should have mentioned he wants a Dallas Stars theme this year. I'm hoping this over black (over primer) will work well. Planning to do some masking to leave some black lines. Also will paint the canopy black. And add a Stars sticker when complete.Yesterday the wood, nails, and wheels weighed in at 1.9 ounces. So the 2.5 ounce canopy would bring us to 4.4 before adding any putty. Unless I'm missing something, I think we're good.

 

[Statcruncher]

I probably should have mentioned he wants a Dallas Stars theme this year.

I'm guessing he leads out of the gate and sputters towards the finish....

 

[gameday]

Thanks. That Duplicolor Mirage paint looks really cool, but I probably should have mentioned he wants a Dallas Stars theme this year. I'm hoping this over black (over primer) will work well. Planning to do some masking to leave some black lines. Also will paint the canopy black. And add a Stars sticker when complete.

Yesterday the wood, nails, and wheels weighed in at 1.9 ounces. So the 2.5 ounce canopy would bring us to 4.4 before adding any putty. Unless I'm missing something, I think we're good.

The most important thing about paint is to make sure your primer and color coat are compatible so that they don't bubble. The easiest way to ensure that is to buy everything from the same manufacturer. Also, I can't stress enough the importance of getting quick drying paint. Regarding weight, I didn't realize your block weighed that much. After my son cuts his out it's generally about .2 ounces. We end up adding 4+ ounces of weight.

When's the derby? My son's is on 2/18.

 

[Disco Stu]

I probably should have mentioned he wants a Dallas Stars theme this year.

I'm guessing he leads out of the gate and sputters towards the finish....

He has five sports teams and five years of Cub Scouts, so he's determined to use a different one each year.

Year 1 (second in den)

Year 2 (first in den, third in pack)

In year one, I was quietly just hoping to not get blown away. We were shocked at how well it ran.

Based on that success, he wanted the same cut in Year two but we did move the "long end" to the front. We also paid more attention to COM and alignment (ended up making it a three wheeler). Seemed considerably faster.

Now this year is our first attempt at an extended wheel base. Hopefully we don't screw it up.

 

[Disco Stu]

Thanks. That Duplicolor Mirage paint looks really cool, but I probably should have mentioned he wants a Dallas Stars theme this year. I'm hoping this over black (over primer) will work well. Planning to do some masking to leave some black lines. Also will paint the canopy black. And add a Stars sticker when complete.

Yesterday the wood, nails, and wheels weighed in at 1.9 ounces. So the 2.5 ounce canopy would bring us to 4.4 before adding any putty. Unless I'm missing something, I think we're good.

The most important thing about paint is to make sure your primer and color coat are compatible so that they don't bubble. The easiest way to ensure that is to buy everything from the same manufacturer. Also, I can't stress enough the importance of getting quick drying paint. Regarding weight, I didn't realize your block weighed that much. After my son cuts his out it's generally about .2 ounces. We end up adding 4+ ounces of weight.

When's the derby? My son's is on 2/18.

Wow, that's light. We originally planned to remove some of the width but didn't feel comfortable about our chances of maintaining symmetry.Derby is 1/28.

 

[walnutz]

What tools are you guys using to cut your bodies with? We have our race on the 20th of this month and the car is still in the box. I am feeling pretty far behind at this point.

Quick edit -- I am not the most handy guy. So, I am pretty short on the tools i have in the "shop."

 

[Disco Stu]

What tools are you guys using to cut your bodies with? We have our race on the 20th of this month and the car is still in the box. I am feeling pretty far behind at this point.

We just used a friend's band saw.

 

[walnutz]

so, in the absence of a band saw what else might you all suggest. I can try to see if i can find someone with a band saw if all else fails.

 

[gameday]

What tools are you guys using to cut your bodies with? We have our race on the 20th of this month and the car is still in the box. I am feeling pretty far behind at this point.Quick edit -- I am not the most handy guy. So, I am pretty short on the tools i have in the "shop."

We use a table saw to cut the bottom 1/4th off the block. That is what my son uses for his car. He uses a scroll saw to cut out inside sections in order to reduce weight. Then he uses a belt sander to shape the body. If you're short on time, your best bet is to just go with a basic wedge shape where the shape tapers downward from the rear to the front of the car.

 

[Disco Stu]

What tools are you guys using to cut your bodies with? We have our race on the 20th of this month and the car is still in the box. I am feeling pretty far behind at this point.

Quick edit -- I am not the most handy guy. So, I am pretty short on the tools i have in the "shop."

We use a table saw to cut the bottom 1/4th off the block. That is what my son uses for his car. He uses a scroll saw to cut out inside sections in order to reduce weight. Then he uses a belt sander to shape the body. If you're short on time, your best bet is to just go with a basic wedge shape where the shape tapers downward from the rear to the front of the car.

And you could probably do that with just a hand saw and miter box. $15 or so.

 

[walnutz]

I have a jig saw. I got a template off of the innerwebs that I am using to trace the cut for the car. I am thinking I can cut it with the jig saw using some clamps to hold it in place. This is our second car. Last years did okay. I think we came in 4th out of our 12 person den. I was hoping to try to get him more interested in it this year and do something fancier but it looks like time is running out on us. Thanks for the input. I will post some pics once we get things going as well.

 

[shuke]

The front of the car is cut opposite of how you would expect from an aerodynamics standpoint. But I'm hoping that is more than made up for by allowing a quicker start. I figure it will start moving with the starting pin, instead of having to wait until the pin is completely clear. Just a theory though. I haven't seen anyone recommending that style.

I think this is considered a "fast start" design, and may be illegal in some packs. You might want to double check.

 

[shuke]

I probably should have mentioned he wants a Dallas Stars theme this year.

I'm guessing he leads out of the gate and sputters towards the finish....

He has five sports teams and five years of Cub Scouts, so he's determined to use a different one each year.

Year 1 (second in den)

Year 2 (first in den, third in pack)

In year one, I was quietly just hoping to not get blown away. We were shocked at how well it ran.

Based on that success, he wanted the same cut in Year two but we did move the "long end" to the front. We also paid more attention to COM and alignment (ended up making it a three wheeler). Seemed considerably faster.

Now this year is our first attempt at an extended wheel base. Hopefully we don't screw it up.

Jesus, look at you in here asking basic questions about painting pretending you don't know what you're doing.

 

[shuke]

so, in the absence of a band saw what else might you all suggest. I can try to see if i can find someone with a band saw if all else fails.

Coping saw.

 

[shuke]

I have a jig saw. I got a template off of the innerwebs that I am using to trace the cut for the car. I am thinking I can cut it with the jig saw using some clamps to hold it in place. This is our second car. Last years did okay. I think we came in 4th out of our 12 person den. I was hoping to try to get him more interested in it this year and do something fancier but it looks like time is running out on us. Thanks for the input. I will post some pics once we get things going as well.

Is the jig saw blade longer than the width of the car? If not, you can cut out from each side but leave about 1/8th" from your template, then use a high speed sander to finish off the shape.

 

[shuke]

My son's car is coming along. Melting the lead and getting it into drilled holes was interesting. I think I'll get some tungsten next year.

Our postage scale seems a little suspect, seems to have about a .1 or .2 error, but I think we're good with our washers idea.

 

[urbanhack]

when is race day??

 

[pittstownkiller]

My son's car is coming along. Melting the lead and getting it into drilled holes was interesting. I think I'll get some tungsten next year. Our postage scale seems a little suspect, seems to have about a .1 or .2 error, but I think we're good with our washers idea.

When are you going to let your son see it .

 

[Disco Stu]

For those without tools, maybe there is a workshop like this in your area.

Just found out my son's pack has time reserved at that shop next weekend. Maybe this will increase the number of competitive cars this year.

 

[shuke]

My son's car is coming along. Melting the lead and getting it into drilled holes was interesting. I think I'll get some tungsten next year. Our postage scale seems a little suspect, seems to have about a .1 or .2 error, but I think we're good with our washers idea.

When are you going to let your son see it .

He has been helping the entire way and doing most of the work except using the bandsaw and melting the lead.

 

[urbanhack]

shuke jr.

 

[shuke]

Well, here it is.

One of the front wheels ended up being about .030" off the ground, by total accident. Our axle placement preparation was pretty sloppy. I checked his pack rules and there's nothing about all four wheels touching the ground, but I'm a little nervous, since I may not be at the weigh in. Unfortunately, I epoxied these axles in and I'm afraid if we have to take one out that I'm going to end up ripping the car apart.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

[urbanhack]

Nice!

 

[walnutz]

Well, I found a parent in our pack who has a band saw. Have to say that is the way to go. The guy helped me cut the block. Took about 5 minutes to do. Took my son to Home Depot and we picked out a paint color. He wants to name it the Viper. We are painting it green. Went with a green glossy spray paint. I have the first full coat of primer on. We also bought a gloss spray for the final coat to give it some extra shine.

I am pretty sure we can get it finished up by friday for the weigh in.

 

[shuke]

Guys, what are the tips for getting that last-minute graphite in there once the wheels are assembled? Just pour it under the axle head and spin the wheels?

 

[johnnycakes]

Guys, what are the tips for getting that last-minute graphite in there once the wheels are assembled? Just pour it under the axle head and spin the wheels?

small paint brush... like a water color brush.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Made probably the worst car in the history of the Pinewood Derby but damn it, we made it.

 

[gameday]

Guys, what are the tips for getting that last-minute graphite in there once the wheels are assembled? Just pour it under the axle head and spin the wheels?

Well, normally if the wheels were not set in epoxy you would just yank 'em out, re-graphite, and re-insert. So, in your case like another poster suggested, you could use a small brush to push some more graphite into the wheel bore. Another option is to use a plastic squirt bottle and just squirt some in. I get all our graphite from the max-v site and it comes in that kind of bottle.If you add more graphite remember that it has to be broken in to have max effect. This means that you need to spin the wheel hard on its axle at least 10 times. When we first apply graphite we do that 4 times in total.As a side note, some people suggest 'soaking' the wheels and axles in a bag of graphite. Don't do that since it just creates a mess and you do not want graphite on the tread of the wheels. That causes wheels to slide and actually reduces speed. Also, the problem with gluing the axles in is twofold: first off you can get nearly invisible strands of glue between the axles/wheels or wheels/car. Those strands get wrapped around the axles/wheels and cause great friction; secondly, there is no need to glue the axles in. They are held firmly in place without glue. If the axle hole gets sloppy from removing/re-inserting the axles just put a drop of water in the axle hole and it swells right back out, creating a firm fit.Good luck. I'd like to hear how he does.

 

[Disco Stu]

Well, here it is.

One of the front wheels ended up being about .030" off the ground, by total accident. Our axle placement preparation was pretty sloppy. I checked his pack rules and there's nothing about all four wheels touching the ground, but I'm a little nervous, since I may not be at the weigh in. Unfortunately, I epoxied these axles in and I'm afraid if we have to take one out that I'm going to end up ripping the car apart.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

Looks good shuke. The only thing we accomplished this weekend was hollowing most of the thing out with a drill and chisel. Dropped the block weight from 1.4 down to 0.8 ounces.

 

[Disco Stu]

Also, the problem with gluing the axles in is twofold: first off you can get nearly invisible strands of glue between the axles/wheels or wheels/car. Those strands get wrapped around the axles/wheels and cause great friction; secondly, there is no need to glue the axles in. They are held firmly in place without glue. If the axle hole gets sloppy from removing/re-inserting the axles just put a drop of water in the axle hole and it swells right back out, creating a firm fit.

Interesting. I wouldn't have thought they held that firmly. My concern would be the handling during the race. The volunteers don't always treat the cars delicately.We've used wood glue in the past but were planning on a small amount of white glue this year.

 

[gameday]

Also, the problem with gluing the axles in is twofold: first off you can get nearly invisible strands of glue between the axles/wheels or wheels/car. Those strands get wrapped around the axles/wheels and cause great friction; secondly, there is no need to glue the axles in. They are held firmly in place without glue. If the axle hole gets sloppy from removing/re-inserting the axles just put a drop of water in the axle hole and it swells right back out, creating a firm fit.

Interesting. I wouldn't have thought they held that firmly. My concern would be the handling during the race. The volunteers don't always treat the cars delicately.We've used wood glue in the past but were planning on a small amount of white glue this year.

Counting the cars my two sons have built and those that I built for the adults race, they probably number around 22 or so. In every case the wheels/axles have been yanked out many, many times and we've never had a need to glue them in. On a few occasions, though, I did have to use the water trick to reduce the size of the axle hole once the fit became a little sloppy.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Also, the problem with gluing the axles in is twofold: first off you can get nearly invisible strands of glue between the axles/wheels or wheels/car. Those strands get wrapped around the axles/wheels and cause great friction; secondly, there is no need to glue the axles in. They are held firmly in place without glue. If the axle hole gets sloppy from removing/re-inserting the axles just put a drop of water in the axle hole and it swells right back out, creating a firm fit.

Interesting. I wouldn't have thought they held that firmly. My concern would be the handling during the race. The volunteers don't always treat the cars delicately.We've used wood glue in the past but were planning on a small amount of white glue this year.

lolStu, there is a message for you in the GMTAN.

 

[Disco Stu]

The only thing we accomplished this weekend was hollowing most of the thing out with a drill and chisel. Dropped the block weight from 1.4 down to 0.8 ounces.

After making this modification, our design looks a lot like this but with a thin layer of wood on top.

 

[Disco Stu]

Also, the problem with gluing the axles in is twofold: first off you can get nearly invisible strands of glue between the axles/wheels or wheels/car. Those strands get wrapped around the axles/wheels and cause great friction; secondly, there is no need to glue the axles in. They are held firmly in place without glue. If the axle hole gets sloppy from removing/re-inserting the axles just put a drop of water in the axle hole and it swells right back out, creating a firm fit.

Interesting. I wouldn't have thought they held that firmly. My concern would be the handling during the race. The volunteers don't always treat the cars delicately.We've used wood glue in the past but were planning on a small amount of white glue this year.

lolStu, there is a message for you in the GMTAN.

I'm hundreds of pages behind in that thread unfortunately. Was it about you trying to hook me up with your cousin?

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Also, the problem with gluing the axles in is twofold: first off you can get nearly invisible strands of glue between the axles/wheels or wheels/car. Those strands get wrapped around the axles/wheels and cause great friction; secondly, there is no need to glue the axles in. They are held firmly in place without glue. If the axle hole gets sloppy from removing/re-inserting the axles just put a drop of water in the axle hole and it swells right back out, creating a firm fit.

Interesting. I wouldn't have thought they held that firmly. My concern would be the handling during the race. The volunteers don't always treat the cars delicately.We've used wood glue in the past but were planning on a small amount of white glue this year.

lolStu, there is a message for you in the GMTAN.

I'm hundreds of pages behind in that thread unfortunately. Was it about you trying to hook me up with your cousin?

I wasn't trying to set you up jerkwad. Just an amazing resemblance. link

 

[gameday]

The only thing we accomplished this weekend was hollowing most of the thing out with a drill and chisel. Dropped the block weight from 1.4 down to 0.8 ounces.

After making this modification, our design looks a lot like this but with a thin layer of wood on top.

Disco, of all the car designs we've used, that rail rider design by Stan Pope is absolutely the best. It's easy for the kids to do, it's easy to get great weight placement, and it's a quick car to make. BTW, take note of the little marks at the top of axle heads. That mark is used to 'dial in' the axle. There is a process that is used to determine optimum alignment and it has to do with trying to set the axle so precisely that the wheel moves neither in or our on the axle. Some people put a mark on the axle head and make a small bend in the axle towards that mark. Then you can rotate the axle to try and find the perfect alignment.

 

[Disco Stu]

The only thing we accomplished this weekend was hollowing most of the thing out with a drill and chisel. Dropped the block weight from 1.4 down to 0.8 ounces.

After making this modification, our design looks a lot like this but with a thin layer of wood on top.

Disco, of all the car designs we've used, that rail rider design by Stan Pope is absolutely the best. It's easy for the kids to do, it's easy to get great weight placement, and it's a quick car to make. BTW, take note of the little marks at the top of axle heads. That mark is used to 'dial in' the axle. There is a process that is used to determine optimum alignment and it has to do with trying to set the axle so precisely that the wheel moves neither in or our on the axle. Some people put a mark on the axle head and make a small bend in the axle towards that mark. Then you can rotate the axle to try and find the perfect alignment.

Yeah, I'm going to try that this year. Last year's car rolled straight, but I have no idea if the wheels moved in and out on the axles.

 

[walnutz]

Question on painting the derby car for you pro's. I did the first coat of primer yesterday. I came back today and did sanded with a fine sandpaper. There were some spots where the wood grain still showed through. I did a second coat with the primer this evening. Should I sand again tomorrow? If the wood grain shows through again do I need to do another coat of primer?

 

[gameday]

Question on painting the derby car for you pro's. I did the first coat of primer yesterday. I came back today and did sanded with a fine sandpaper. There were some spots where the wood grain still showed through. I did a second coat with the primer this evening. Should I sand again tomorrow? If the wood grain shows through again do I need to do another coat of primer?

Yes, you need a full coat of primer covering the wood. Are you using wet/dry sandpaper to sand the primer? What grit paper are you using? In my experience the primer generally lays down very smoothly and needs little, if any, sanding. How rough is your coat of primer?

 

[walnutz]

Question on painting the derby car for you pro's. I did the first coat of primer yesterday. I came back today and did sanded with a fine sandpaper. There were some spots where the wood grain still showed through. I did a second coat with the primer this evening. Should I sand again tomorrow? If the wood grain shows through again do I need to do another coat of primer?

Yes, you need a full coat of primer covering the wood. Are you using wet/dry sandpaper to sand the primer? What grit paper are you using? In my experience the primer generally lays down very smoothly and needs little, if any, sanding. How rough is your coat of primer?

I need to look at the sandpaper. It is a dry sandpaper though. I am using a spray paint type primer for wood. I think the grain only really showed where I did not get good coverage from the spray. I had one area that was a little gloppy so i sanded that a bit more. Not sure what how rough the coat of primer means. THe car is basically smooth at this point to the touch.

 

[gameday]

Question on painting the derby car for you pro's. I did the first coat of primer yesterday. I came back today and did sanded with a fine sandpaper. There were some spots where the wood grain still showed through. I did a second coat with the primer this evening. Should I sand again tomorrow? If the wood grain shows through again do I need to do another coat of primer?

Yes, you need a full coat of primer covering the wood. Are you using wet/dry sandpaper to sand the primer? What grit paper are you using? In my experience the primer generally lays down very smoothly and needs little, if any, sanding. How rough is your coat of primer?

I need to look at the sandpaper. It is a dry sandpaper though. I am using a spray paint type primer for wood. I think the grain only really showed where I did not get good coverage from the spray. I had one area that was a little gloppy so i sanded that a bit more. Not sure what how rough the coat of primer means. THe car is basically smooth at this point to the touch.

In that case I'd apply one final, thin coat of primer and I wouldn't sand it. That should allow you to lay on some, nice smooth coats of paint. By the way, are you 100% sure the paint is compatible with the primer? You might want to prime and paint a test board just to be sure. Otherwise, if it bubbles up you'll end up sanding everything back down to wood and starting all over.

 

[GroveDiesel]

My son and I started working on his new car Sunday. My link

We went really basic with the shape. Top side is facing up in the picture. Hole is for this canopy/weight. Also ordered some of this putty for the additional weight. I figure multiple putty holes drilled in the bottom side will be an easy way to get the center of mass where we want it. And then obviously it's easy to adjust at official weigh-in.

The front of the car is cut opposite of how you would expect from an aerodynamics standpoint. But I'm hoping that is more than made up for by allowing a quicker start. I figure it will start moving with the starting pin, instead of having to wait until the pin is completely clear. Just a theory though. I haven't seen anyone recommending that style.

We bought Rust-oleum primer and paint. Does anyone have recommended sanding/priming/painting instructions? To make up for the boring body, we'd like it to at least be very smooth and shiny. (that's what she said?)

Well, you asked for some recommendations. Mine is to use Duplicolor Mirage Ice instead of the Rust-oleum. The Duplicolor is a 3-part system that is very, very, easy to use and results in an amazingly vibrant, shiny paint job. You can get Duplicolor at most auto shops like AutoZone.First, get a Duplicolor high build primer. Paint the primer on in several thin coats. Don't over due it or you'll get runs. Wet/dry sand the primer after you have a few coats laid down. Then put on the Duplicolor. First you put down the base coats, then you apply the color coats, then you'll apply clear coats. Each coat dries in about 10 minutes, but I would wait even a little longer between coats. You can wet/dry between layers, but it probably isn't necessary, and you might sand through the layer.

BTW, the canopy weight is nice, but it's only 2.5 ounces. You might need something else besides the tungsten putty. Good luck.

you can scroll through this post to see some examples of cars painted with Duplicolor.

Wow. Can't believe there are guys spending $160 on PAINT for a pinewood derby car! Pretty sure the kids of those guys there aren't even allowed to touch those cars until race day. And only then, just enough to try to convince the other parents that their kid actually had something to do with the car.

 

[walnutz]

Question on painting the derby car for you pro's. I did the first coat of primer yesterday. I came back today and did sanded with a fine sandpaper. There were some spots where the wood grain still showed through. I did a second coat with the primer this evening. Should I sand again tomorrow? If the wood grain shows through again do I need to do another coat of primer?

Yes, you need a full coat of primer covering the wood. Are you using wet/dry sandpaper to sand the primer? What grit paper are you using? In my experience the primer generally lays down very smoothly and needs little, if any, sanding. How rough is your coat of primer?

I need to look at the sandpaper. It is a dry sandpaper though. I am using a spray paint type primer for wood. I think the grain only really showed where I did not get good coverage from the spray. I had one area that was a little gloppy so i sanded that a bit more. Not sure what how rough the coat of primer means. THe car is basically smooth at this point to the touch.

In that case I'd apply one final, thin coat of primer and I wouldn't sand it. That should allow you to lay on some, nice smooth coats of paint. By the way, are you 100% sure the paint is compatible with the primer? You might want to prime and paint a test board just to be sure. Otherwise, if it bubbles up you'll end up sanding everything back down to wood and starting all over.

You will probably laugh but I talked to the paint guy at home depot. He recommended the paint we got. This one can not look any worse than the one we did last year. last years was a miserableaint job, my sn got 4th in his pack. We have had fun doing this one this year. I guess we get some points for that no matter what it looks like.

 

[shuke]

Question on painting the derby car for you pro's. I did the first coat of primer yesterday. I came back today and did sanded with a fine sandpaper. There were some spots where the wood grain still showed through. I did a second coat with the primer this evening. Should I sand again tomorrow? If the wood grain shows through again do I need to do another coat of primer?

Yes, you need a full coat of primer covering the wood. Are you using wet/dry sandpaper to sand the primer? What grit paper are you using? In my experience the primer generally lays down very smoothly and needs little, if any, sanding. How rough is your coat of primer?

I need to look at the sandpaper. It is a dry sandpaper though. I am using a spray paint type primer for wood. I think the grain only really showed where I did not get good coverage from the spray. I had one area that was a little gloppy so i sanded that a bit more. Not sure what how rough the coat of primer means. THe car is basically smooth at this point to the touch.

I wouldn't worry about sanding the second coat. Seems overkill.

 

[gameday]

Well, you asked for some recommendations. Mine is to use Duplicolor Mirage Ice instead of the Rust-oleum. The Duplicolor is a 3-part system that is very, very, easy to use and results in an amazingly vibrant, shiny paint job. You can get Duplicolor at most auto shops like AutoZone.

First, get a Duplicolor high build primer. Paint the primer on in several thin coats. Don't over due it or you'll get runs. Wet/dry sand the primer after you have a few coats laid down. Then put on the Duplicolor. First you put down the base coats, then you apply the color coats, then you'll apply clear coats. Each coat dries in about 10 minutes, but I would wait even a little longer between coats. You can wet/dry between layers, but it probably isn't necessary, and you might sand through the layer.

BTW, the canopy weight is nice, but it's only 2.5 ounces. You might need something else besides the tungsten putty. Good luck.

you can scroll through this post to see some examples of cars painted with Duplicolor.

Wow. Can't believe there are guys spending $160 on PAINT for a pinewood derby car! Pretty sure the kids of those guys there aren't even allowed to touch those cars until race day. And only then, just enough to try to convince the other parents that their kid actually had something to do with the car.

$160?? Where did you get that from? The Duplicolor paint we bought was around $15 for the set (but that was around 3 - 4 years ago). Regarding whether the kids work on the car, I've stated in before in this thread that I run a lot of workshops for the kids in my pack. I'm the cubmaster. Every kid has to do all the cutting, drilling, sanding, and painting. They also have to prep all their own axles and wheels. I try to also get as many parents involved as I can since it's a cool bonding experience for them.

 

[gameday]

Well, you asked for some recommendations. Mine is to use Duplicolor Mirage Ice instead of the Rust-oleum. The Duplicolor is a 3-part system that is very, very, easy to use and results in an amazingly vibrant, shiny paint job. You can get Duplicolor at most auto shops like AutoZone.

First, get a Duplicolor high build primer. Paint the primer on in several thin coats. Don't over due it or you'll get runs. Wet/dry sand the primer after you have a few coats laid down. Then put on the Duplicolor. First you put down the base coats, then you apply the color coats, then you'll apply clear coats. Each coat dries in about 10 minutes, but I would wait even a little longer between coats. You can wet/dry between layers, but it probably isn't necessary, and you might sand through the layer.

BTW, the canopy weight is nice, but it's only 2.5 ounces. You might need something else besides the tungsten putty. Good luck.

you can scroll through this post to see some examples of cars painted with Duplicolor.

Wow. Can't believe there are guys spending $160 on PAINT for a pinewood derby car! Pretty sure the kids of those guys there aren't even allowed to touch those cars until race day. And only then, just enough to try to convince the other parents that their kid actually had something to do with the car.

$160?? Where did you get that from? The Duplicolor paint we bought was around $15 for the set (but that was around 3 - 4 years ago). Regarding whether the kids work on the car, I've stated in before in this thread that I run a lot of workshops for the kids in my pack. I'm the cubmaster. Every kid has to do all the cutting, drilling, sanding, and painting. They also have to prep all their own axles and wheels. I try to also get as many parents involved as I can since it's a cool bonding experience for them.

OK, I just went through the link in the embedded thread and I can see where you got that number. Bear in mind that that link is for a hard-core derby site and many of those guys compete in national, adult races. I used that link simply to show the results of using Duplicolor paint.

 

[GroveDiesel]

Well, you asked for some recommendations. Mine is to use Duplicolor Mirage Ice instead of the Rust-oleum. The Duplicolor is a 3-part system that is very, very, easy to use and results in an amazingly vibrant, shiny paint job. You can get Duplicolor at most auto shops like AutoZone.

First, get a Duplicolor high build primer. Paint the primer on in several thin coats. Don't over due it or you'll get runs. Wet/dry sand the primer after you have a few coats laid down. Then put on the Duplicolor. First you put down the base coats, then you apply the color coats, then you'll apply clear coats. Each coat dries in about 10 minutes, but I would wait even a little longer between coats. You can wet/dry between layers, but it probably isn't necessary, and you might sand through the layer.

BTW, the canopy weight is nice, but it's only 2.5 ounces. You might need something else besides the tungsten putty. Good luck.

you can scroll through this post to see some examples of cars painted with Duplicolor.

Wow. Can't believe there are guys spending $160 on PAINT for a pinewood derby car! Pretty sure the kids of those guys there aren't even allowed to touch those cars until race day. And only then, just enough to try to convince the other parents that their kid actually had something to do with the car.

$160?? Where did you get that from? The Duplicolor paint we bought was around $15 for the set (but that was around 3 - 4 years ago). Regarding whether the kids work on the car, I've stated in before in this thread that I run a lot of workshops for the kids in my pack. I'm the cubmaster. Every kid has to do all the cutting, drilling, sanding, and painting. They also have to prep all their own axles and wheels. I try to also get as many parents involved as I can since it's a cool bonding experience for them.

OK, I just went through the link in the embedded thread and I can see where you got that number. Bear in mind that that link is for a hard-core derby site and many of those guys compete in national, adult races. I used that link simply to show the results of using Duplicolor paint.

Yeah, the $160 included $100 from the airbrush setup, but I just can't see going that far to paint a pinewood derby car. And that's STILL $60 for the paint! Totally insane. And I'm not sure that it's better if it's for adult races...

 

[St. Louis Bob]

I'm worried about the other kids (dads) cheating. What should I be looking out for and precisely how would they do it?

 

[Disco Stu]

I'm worried about the other kids (dads) cheating. What should I be looking out for and precisely how would they do it?

Do you have a copy of your Pack's race rules?Edit: Hmm... there's probably a better way of wording that.

 

[pittstownkiller]

I'm worried about the other kids (dads) cheating. What should I be looking out for and precisely how would they do it?

If you make this about winning, losing, and cheating, I am afraid you are not going to have a good time with your son unless you win; I think a lot is lost in translation there.