What's new
Fantasy Football - Footballguys Forums

Welcome to Our Forums. Once you've registered and logged in, you're primed to talk football, among other topics, with the sharpest and most experienced fantasy players on the internet.

Home-owners...What are your current projects? (5 Viewers)

Yup, all sounds good.  I think you can use cat3 for networking, but it would be very slow (not fast enough to stream video). 
Great thanks! Yep, we're all good with just using regular wireless so gonna just make these eyesores disappear. 

 
Installing a new dimmer 3 way switch.  The new dimmer has a green ground wire coming from it but the junction box and old wiring doesn't have a ground in it to attach to. Theres no metal screw in box to attach green ground wire too either. Box is plastic. What do I do with this green wire coming from new dimmer switch?  Light is all wired up otherwise and works perfectly. 

ETA: there is some copper wiring bunched up in the back of the box....can I attach ground to that or no? 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
offdee said:
Installing a new dimmer 3 way switch.  The new dimmer has a green ground wire coming from it but the junction box and old wiring doesn't have a ground in it to attach to. Theres no metal screw in box to attach green ground wire too either. Box is plastic. What do I do with this green wire coming from new dimmer switch?  Light is all wired up otherwise and works perfectly. 

ETA: there is some copper wiring bunched up in the back of the box....can I attach ground to that or no? 
https://www.westsidewholesale.com/faq/v/q/dimmers/if-there-is-no-ground-wire-in-my-wallbox-what-do.html

 
offdee said:
Installing a new dimmer 3 way switch.  The new dimmer has a green ground wire coming from it but the junction box and old wiring doesn't have a ground in it to attach to. Theres no metal screw in box to attach green ground wire too either. Box is plastic. What do I do with this green wire coming from new dimmer switch?  Light is all wired up otherwise and works perfectly. 

ETA: there is some copper wiring bunched up in the back of the box....can I attach ground to that or no? 
When you say "copper wiring bunched up in the back of the box"  do you mean copper wiring without any sheathing or just more wire (most all home electrical wiring is copper) - Typically, unsheathed copper wire is the ground.  If it's sheathed, and NOT green, it's likely not a ground.

 
offdee said:
Great thanks! Yep, we're all good with just using regular wireless so gonna just make these eyesores disappear. 
Do what you want, but I'd just buy some outlet covers and be done with it...  They were a buck a piece and took about 2 minutes to install all of them in the house. Unless you're insanely good at drywall and matching paint, I'm guessing it'll probably look better too. 

https://s4.postimg.org/h1lpqz24t/IMG_0342.jpg

 
Do what you want, but I'd just buy some outlet covers and be done with it...  They were a buck a piece and took about 2 minutes to install all of them in the house. Unless you're insanely good at drywall and matching paint, I'm guessing it'll probably look better too. 

https://s4.postimg.org/h1lpqz24t/IMG_0342.jpg
As a son-in-law of an electrician, and an engineer - covers is the correct move.  As a rule, don't hide wiring (even low voltage) 

 
My plans just got approved by the town yesterday for an extension I'm adding to the house....finally!! 

We are adding a new den and laundry room on one side of the house (with a full basement under it), and then extending my kids rooms by a few feet. 

For the new area, I only have the contractor doing the shell on the new area, I'm GCing/doing the rest of it to save some money. I'll do the floors, sheetrock and some other stuff, hiring out the electrical and plumbing. 

After that we are taking over our existing den and blowing out the kitchen and adding a small mud room, that will be later in the year once the other stuff is done. i'm hoping to have it all done by Christmas. 

lets start spending money!!!! lol

 
My plans just got approved by the town yesterday for an extension I'm adding to the house....finally!! 

We are adding a new den and laundry room on one side of the house (with a full basement under it), and then extending my kids rooms by a few feet. 

For the new area, I only have the contractor doing the shell on the new area, I'm GCing/doing the rest of it to save some money. I'll do the floors, sheetrock and some other stuff, hiring out the electrical and plumbing. 

After that we are taking over our existing den and blowing out the kitchen and adding a small mud room, that will be later in the year once the other stuff is done. i'm hoping to have it all done by Christmas. 

lets start spending money!!!! lol
What's your budget? How much for contractor and how much for rest?

 
proninja said:
We have an under-stairs closet that's always been a catch-all for absolutely nothing important. 

I painted it, put some simple shelves up, and bang, pantry space. Note that it isn't done on the bottom yet, I called it quits around midnight last night. 
Is that 1X pine? You might consider painting it white, wouldn't take much effort 

 
What's your budget? How much for contractor and how much for rest?
For the contractor-about $115k.  That's digging and pouring the basement, the shell of 2 rooms, siding, reroofing the whole house, and extending my kids rooms.  For the kids rooms he's doing it finished though Sheetrock, new floors and paint 

to finish the rest of the job I expect about $50k which is new central AC, electric, minor plumbing, insulation and spackle   I'll do the walls, floor, finish work etc   

Then I expect the Kitchen to be about $65k with some taking down some walls and adding a support beam/header and then new flooring, cabinets and rest of the kitchen stuff  

 
For the contractor-about $115k.  That's digging and pouring the basement, the shell of 2 rooms, siding, reroofing the whole house, and extending my kids rooms.  For the kids rooms he's doing it finished though Sheetrock, new floors and paint 

to finish the rest of the job I expect about $50k which is new central AC, electric, minor plumbing, insulation and spackle   I'll do the walls, floor, finish work etc   

Then I expect the Kitchen to be about $65k with some taking down some walls and adding a support beam/header and then new flooring, cabinets and rest of the kitchen stuff  
$230k all in?

additions are expensive...

 
I have a screened in condo deck. I love sitting out there when the weather is warmer, and having a beer ,watching a movie or doing work.

Saying that, I'm only able to sit outside for about 5 months (May-September) with a few days in March/April/October.

[SIZE=10.5px]I would like to "modify" my screened in deck to be similar to a shower curtain where I'm able to extend some weather proofing in the colder months and be able to sit on my deck. In my perfect world, hitting a button would extend a plexi-glass of sorts (think of it as a sliding door) that is placed in front of the current screen. I need to get the temperature up to 40-50 degrees and keep any snow out. I can get the temps up to near 70 with a few space heaters and make this a year round experience for me.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5px]I don't know where/how to even start with this and would hire somebody to do this for me.[/SIZE]

 
proninja said:
Finished, unless I decide to paint the shelves 
Not a bad idea. When we built our current house 10 years ago, we did something really similar. We had them convert a coat closet next to the garage door (under the main stairs to second floor, very close to kitchen) into a big second pantry. It is pretty huge, maybe 8 feet wide and we just had them put in the wire shelving. Our last home had a huge sort of walk in corner pantry in the kitchen, which was way bigger than our current one in the kitchen hence doing what we did. We then took what was I think a linen closet next to the guest bedroom and made that the coat closet. Honestly, the coat closet barely gets used, so I'm glad we did the second pantry.

 
I applied for a permit to put a roof over my 4' x 4' front stoop. It got denied. The town manager said it would look great and would definitely set my house apart from the rest on my street - all ranchers with "flat" fronts. But it would be too close to the road according to town zoning  :loco:   So, I'm gonna apply for a waiver. It's not a big deal either way, but it's been a while since I've gone through the "process" and I'm kinda bored.

 
$230k all in?

additions are expensive...




 
yea long island NY, everything is stupid expensive. It wasn't our 1st choice, but we want to stay in our town b/c my wife teaches at the same school my kids go to. And anything that was what we wanted would have been $250k+ higher then we could sell for. Plus, I'm on a 15 yr with a stupid rate (2.5%) that will have me paid off in a few years. If I went into a new home, i was looking at going back to a 30 with a basic 5%+ rate and not paying it off until im 73. My wife retires in 15 years so I lose that income and it would have been hard for her to relax with those payments. Plus, my kids will only be living for so long here and the updates we are doing are more general living space wich will pay off well past them leaving and coming back with their own families. I'm prob over developing my house for the neighborhood, but thats a problem for my kids to worry about b/c i aint leaving now. 

 
I applied for a permit to put a roof over my 4' x 4' front stoop. It got denied. The town manager said it would look great and would definitely set my house apart from the rest on my street - all ranchers with "flat" fronts. But it would be too close to the road according to town zoning  :loco:   So, I'm gonna apply for a waiver. It's not a big deal either way, but it's been a while since I've gone through the "process" and I'm kinda bored.
I'm so glad I live somewhere without a lot of dumb rules.  We have to get permits for some stuff, but honestly most people don't.  They don't check when people sell houses or anything.  They do have guys driving around looking for unpermitted construction, but first time is just a warning.  They're only interested in the $50 permit fee.

 
Take it from me, you never will. I am currently going back and doing those little things all over the house because we are putting the house on the market in the not too distant future. Pisses my wife off that she has bugged me about these things for years, and now I finish them up for some stranger.
I have 1 weekend a year where I finish all the little jobs I keep putting off.  I generally do it sometime towards the beginning of March before it gets nice outside.  It keeps the wife happy, and it's nice to feel like I accomplished a lot in a weekend.

 
I'm so glad I live somewhere without a lot of dumb rules.  We have to get permits for some stuff, but honestly most people don't.  They don't check when people sell houses or anything.  They do have guys driving around looking for unpermitted construction, but first time is just a warning.  They're only interested in the $50 permit fee.
I'm 99% sure I'll get the waiver when I file. I could have done the job in a few hours on a Saturday without the permit (especially knowing my neighbors), but this isn't a big deal. I'd rather go by the book.

 
I have a screened in condo deck. I love sitting out there when the weather is warmer, and having a beer ,watching a movie or doing work.

Saying that, I'm only able to sit outside for about 5 months (May-September) with a few days in March/April/October.

[SIZE=10.5px]I would like to "modify" my screened in deck to be similar to a shower curtain where I'm able to extend some weather proofing in the colder months and be able to sit on my deck. In my perfect world, hitting a button would extend a plexi-glass of sorts (think of it as a sliding door) that is placed in front of the current screen. I need to get the temperature up to 40-50 degrees and keep any snow out. I can get the temps up to near 70 with a few space heaters and make this a year round experience for me.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5px]I don't know where/how to even start with this and would hire somebody to do this for me.[/SIZE]
I can't help with the powered sliding glass idea, but I've hung patio curtains a few times and have over 40' of them currently enclosing an area. Pulled tight they insulate enough to open the house doors and warm the room when the heater is running. In the summer and  most of fall they are open. It can be done very affordably with drop cloths. But they can also look like $### if they're not measured and hung correctly. You make the curtains with plastic grommets, piece of cake really, a sharp knife and pliers. If the screens are getting some direct sunlight you could do similar with greenhouse film and solar heat the space, in which case they'd need to be roll ups

 
So wife talked me into opening up our staircase.  Got everything cut out, went to move some electrical and then realized it was a load bearing wall (we cut a section out of the drywall and saw what we thought were the floor joist but later had to cut bigger opening and realized it was a spacer block)

Looks like we can reinforce the span but gonna lose like 6-8 inches of the opening 

Fun project 

 
After putting in a pool last summer/fall I've got a massive amount of landscaping to do.  Got some nice grass planted last fall but after winter and settling the yard is a mess.

 
My plans just got approved by the town yesterday for an extension I'm adding to the house....finally!! 

We are adding a new den and laundry room on one side of the house (with a full basement under it), and then extending my kids rooms by a few feet. 

For the new area, I only have the contractor doing the shell on the new area, I'm GCing/doing the rest of it to save some money. I'll do the floors, sheetrock and some other stuff, hiring out the electrical and plumbing. 

After that we are taking over our existing den and blowing out the kitchen and adding a small mud room, that will be later in the year once the other stuff is done. i'm hoping to have it all done by Christmas. 

lets start spending money!!!! lol




 
seething.....

after a small hiccup with needing to add an egress window in the basement, we are so close to starting. 

so today we call our homeowners policyholder GEICO to let them know and.....they ####### dropped my HO insurance b/c of this!!!???? :rant:

Even though I have a provision in my contract that explicitly says "Covers: Materials and supplies located on or next to the residence premises used to construct, alter or repair the dwelling or other structures on the residence premises."GEICO is claiming that the overall size of the work being done exceeds their 'secret underwriting bylaws' and they cannot cover my house any longer while the work is being done. WTF!!!!!

I am so GD angry right now.....I have 3 cars and my house with them for years and they drop me right now. unreal....the whole insurance industry can go EAD right now. Such a GD scam....'secret bylaws??" so the contract I signed with you and have been paying on, has a secret parallel set of regulations that I don't have any access to that basically render my policy useless if they see fit? Un-#######-believable  

 
I have a screened in condo deck. I love sitting out there when the weather is warmer, and having a beer ,watching a movie or doing work.

Saying that, I'm only able to sit outside for about 5 months (May-September) with a few days in March/April/October.

[SIZE=10.5px]I would like to "modify" my screened in deck to be similar to a shower curtain where I'm able to extend some weather proofing in the colder months and be able to sit on my deck. In my perfect world, hitting a button would extend a plexi-glass of sorts (think of it as a sliding door) that is placed in front of the current screen. I need to get the temperature up to 40-50 degrees and keep any snow out. I can get the temps up to near 70 with a few space heaters and make this a year round experience for me.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5px]I don't know where/how to even start with this and would hire somebody to do this for me.[/SIZE]
I can't help with the powered sliding glass idea, but I've hung patio curtains a few times and have over 40' of them currently enclosing an area. Pulled tight they insulate enough to open the house doors and warm the room when the heater is running. In the summer and  most of fall they are open. It can be done very affordably with drop cloths. But they can also look like $### if they're not measured and hung correctly. You make the curtains with plastic grommets, piece of cake really, a sharp knife and pliers. If the screens are getting some direct sunlight you could do similar with greenhouse film and solar heat the space, in which case they'd need to be roll ups
culdeus... I just talked to this showroom that represents a company that's new to me- Renson. they do louvers for exterior of buildings, but also have a covered patio line that was really interesting. not sure if it's right for you, but I saw it in action first hand and it's pretty amazing. very adaptable, even with lights.... but probably not cheap.

also have worked with a company called nanawall that does bifold, accordian and sliding doors (walls of glass). also not cheap, but have developed a nice product over the years.

CC's curtains are obviously going to be cheaper and easier.

 
Think I'm going to get some type of shed to get the lawn equipment/supplies out of the garage.  Recommendations?

 
seething.....

after a small hiccup with needing to add an egress window in the basement, we are so close to starting. 

so today we call our homeowners policyholder GEICO to let them know and.....they ####### dropped my HO insurance b/c of this!!!???? :rant:

Even though I have a provision in my contract that explicitly says "Covers: Materials and supplies located on or next to the residence premises used to construct, alter or repair the dwelling or other structures on the residence premises."GEICO is claiming that the overall size of the work being done exceeds their 'secret underwriting bylaws' and they cannot cover my house any longer while the work is being done. WTF!!!!!

I am so GD angry right now.....I have 3 cars and my house with them for years and they drop me right now. unreal....the whole insurance industry can go EAD right now. Such a GD scam....'secret bylaws??" so the contract I signed with you and have been paying on, has a secret parallel set of regulations that I don't have any access to that basically render my policy useless if they see fit? Un-#######-believable  




 
"...a little-known codicil"

 
Uh, just get another policy. They are a commodity. No need to get personally affected, should take an hour to give the info for three quotes 

 
I'm getting a granite countertop installed, and part extends out a window to back deck.  There is a cabinet out there that I ripped out, that always had little flies and held moisture.  I ripped it out last night, and it seemed like it had way too much moisture.  There was a corroded outlet I pulled out of the block.  Behind it was a bunch of maggots and mold.  I ended up drilling holes in the block, and stinky  water drained.  Along with tons of maggots.  I almost puked.  The block was holding water.  I think it was holding water under a spot where I had a roof leak a year and a half ago.  It's also near a clean out, and vent stack for kitchen sink.  However, the water was a foot above the cleanout & drain.  It looks dry this morning after I drained it and left it open.  Could it have held water in the block that long from the roof leak?

 
I'm getting a granite countertop installed, and part extends out a window to back deck.  There is a cabinet out there that I ripped out, that always had little flies and held moisture.  I ripped it out last night, and it seemed like it had way too much moisture.  There was a corroded outlet I pulled out of the block.  Behind it was a bunch of maggots and mold.  I ended up drilling holes in the block, and stinky  water drained.  Along with tons of maggots.  I almost puked.  The block was holding water.  I think it was holding water under a spot where I had a roof leak a year and a half ago.  It's also near a clean out, and vent stack for kitchen sink.  However, the water was a foot above the cleanout & drain.  It looks dry this morning after I drained it and left it open.  Could it have held water in the block that long from the roof leak?
If the water has nowhere to go sure but concrete block is porous, it should have slowly leaked out I would think.

 
GOing to be hard to be certain

How long can you keep it open?  In the meantime you want to get water flowing through any nearby pipes, and maybe spray the roof with water too.  Try and recreate it

 
There was a spot where a mushroom grew out of a while back that I filled in with foam insulation.  I always assumed they put the cabinet on the pavers, and it was moisture coming in that way.  Well, the footer was there, so that wasn't the case.  I think with the cabinet, and the foam it may have kept the moisture.  I tried running water in the sink this am, and didn't see any leaks.  I will investigate more later.  

 
If you have to seal it up, I would build a removable panel if at all aesthetically possible.  I would also buy a battery powered water sensor.  I would do this even if you are reasonably confident you fixed it.

https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495025327&sr=8-3&keywords=water+sensor

and drop that in.  That way if it were to fill up again with water (and based on what you wrote I bet it does) you will be aware of it, and the removable panel will give you access to it.  

The other side is you are out $12 (plus price of removable panel).  not a big deal

 
I'm getting a granite countertop installed, and part extends out a window to back deck.  There is a cabinet out there that I ripped out, that always had little flies and held moisture.  I ripped it out last night, and it seemed like it had way too much moisture.  There was a corroded outlet I pulled out of the block.  Behind it was a bunch of maggots and mold.  I ended up drilling holes in the block, and stinky  water drained.  Along with tons of maggots.  I almost puked.  The block was holding water.  I think it was holding water under a spot where I had a roof leak a year and a half ago.  It's also near a clean out, and vent stack for kitchen sink.  However, the water was a foot above the cleanout & drain.  It looks dry this morning after I drained it and left it open.  Could it have held water in the block that long from the roof leak?
it is really hard to answer this without having a picture of what the layout is for instance i do not understand what you mean about an inside countertop extending out a window and i do not get where the block is is this an instance where you have a footing then a sill plate and then stick framed walls above with siding or is this a house that is all block basically it would help if you posted a picture take that to the bank brohan 

 
it is really hard to answer this without having a picture of what the layout is for instance i do not understand what you mean about an inside countertop extending out a window and i do not get where the block is is this an instance where you have a footing then a sill plate and then stick framed walls above with siding or is this a house that is all block basically it would help if you posted a picture take that to the bank brohan 
http://s32.photobucket.com/user/tampaquez/media/Capture2_zps4cyvok4e.jpg.html?filters[user]=146482211&filters[recent]=1&filters[publicOnly]=1&sort=1&o=4

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/tampaquez/media/Capture3_zpsl2gvgne6.jpg.html?filters[user]=146482211&filters[recent]=1&filters[publicOnly]=1&sort=1&o=5

I just got home and ran the kitchen sink, and i saw water dripping down the back corner in the hole.  I guess I can rule out the roof, and holding water for plus a year.  I am going to let it dry, and dump a bucket in the kitchen sink when I get back from the Dr.  Then I can at least determine if its from the drain pipe, which I assume it is.

 
i cant get your pictures to work they just spin and spin and spin but nothing comes up sorry brohan take that to the bank

 
I'm getting a granite countertop installed, and part extends out a window to back deck.  There is a cabinet out there that I ripped out, that always had little flies and held moisture.  I ripped it out last night, and it seemed like it had way too much moisture.  There was a corroded outlet I pulled out of the block.  Behind it was a bunch of maggots and mold.  I ended up drilling holes in the block, and stinky  water drained.  Along with tons of maggots.  I almost puked.  The block was holding water.  I think it was holding water under a spot where I had a roof leak a year and a half ago.  It's also near a clean out, and vent stack for kitchen sink.  However, the water was a foot above the cleanout & drain.  It looks dry this morning after I drained it and left it open.  Could it have held water in the block that long from the roof leak?
If the water has nowhere to go sure but concrete block is porous, it should have slowly leaked out I would think.
a year and a half seems like a long time for standing water like that not to evaporate or dissipate without an active source feeding it.

definitely get a water bug/sensor and agree about trying to recreate it.

I typically try to vent outdoor cabinets (or make the front panel screened/louvered/etc) for just this reason.

 
Speaking of leaks:


One room in my home is an addition. The A/C to this room exits from the house's original roof, ductwork runs along the outside roof in the back, then down into the addition.

When it rains, water leaks in drips from inside the AC register and down into the room. Thankfully, being in Southern California, rain is rare but a wet February and March definitely did some damage inside.

How can I diagnose this? Something I can do myself? Do I need to contact a roofer or an A/C repair/install service? Or should I just aim a hose at the roof outside and see what turns up?

Ductwork on the exterior, running into the addition.

Ceiling register where the leak is.
Can you get up there to check the inlet/outlet points?   May be as simple as just slapping a bunch of roofing tar around those points

 
Yeah, it's either where it enters the roof, or, the ductwork itself has a hole in it. Maybe I can wrap a mylar condom around the tube and tar up the base. Not sure how to figure out where the leak itself is.
That's the tough part :lol:

I would just heavily tar the base and hope for the best.  Could try the garden hose like you mentioned to try and pinpoint it or verify after

Also possible it's a hole in the ductwork as you said but I'd think thats less likely unless it's a big hole. Not sure if running the AC at full blast would generate enough air to try and test it with soapy water?  Could be worth a try.  Maybe check all the joints too and wrap them with that aluminum tape used on dryer ducts?

As someone who's last resort is to contact a professional that's my 2 cents 

 
Ductwork on the exterior, running into the addition.
that jerry-rigged exterior ductwork is a first for me.

it's definitely only when it rains, right? it's not condensation dripping on the ducts in the roof-space (uninsulated?)?

looks like three penetrations- which of those three is closest to where the leak is? good place to start guessing where the leak is. I'd think you'd want to reflash/tar the crap out of each of those penetrations to make sure. or use that infomercial stuff that turns a screen door into a boat.

 
Absolutely only when it rains. When I first moved in three years ago, a day of rain left a little puddle inside, maybe four inches across. Last February we got hit with El Nino style storms, monsoons, and the rain was pouring in.

What's weird (to me) is that it appears to drip out close to the center of the register, not the side/edges.
it could still be running on the outside of the duct and getting pulled in with capillary action at the connection to the register so that it only appears to be coming from inside your house duct. 

still think you flash/tar the crap out of the penetration for that particular duct.

have you gone up on the roof to eyeball the ducts for any holes? 

 
that jerry-rigged exterior ductwork is a first for me.

it's definitely only when it rains, right? it's not condensation dripping on the ducts in the roof-space (uninsulated?)?

looks like three penetrations- which of those three is closest to where the leak is? good place to start guessing where the leak is. I'd think you'd want to reflash/tar the crap out of each of those penetrations to make sure. or use that infomercial stuff that turns a screen door into a boat.
i would check the penetrations but also all of that rust on the duct itself tells me that water could be getting in there as well you could use the heat resistent metal backed tape to seal the ducts but its only temprorary duct work that rusted in the open needs to be replaced also seal up all penetration points and figure out if you have condensation like my main man the el guappo floppo up there said take that to the bank brochacho

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top