Welp, this is going to be long. If any of you follow me on Twitter/X you know I have self-identified for 15 years as a tequila snob. I should change that as it was accurate a decade ago, but I'm alcohol free since Thanksgiving and haven't been into tequila this decade. Oddly, I will be in the town of Tequila on the 22nd of this month doing a self-directed tour for a small family group meeting at my nephew's wife's parents' 200 acre agave farm, outside of Guadalajara in the Los Altos region, where the premium agave grows. A different nephew, who's recently fallen in love with tequila, talked me into this. I feel out of my depth, tbh. I've done Town of Tequila tours twice with a gang from the old Blue Agave forums, but that site died (as did a few key members) and so did my interest. So what I have to share is dated. For example, I've never tried Casamigos, and as an annoying snob, I sort of reject the whole big brand marketing campaigns. Backinaday, we called those "grocery store tequilas" and turned our noses away. Nowadays, I see many of the brands we wholeheartedly endorsed... in the grocery stores.
Good ole Patron was my gateway. As a noob in those forums, I quickly learned that Patron was a marketing bad guy. Different "noms" were stamped on bottles of Patron all across the country. In San Diego El Jimador's nom was stamped on Patron. NOM stands for Norma Oficial Mexicana. It's the # assigned to each distillery for ensuring quality standards and authenticity. Was San Diego Patron just El Jimador with great marketing? For the life of me I couldn't differentiate a $9 bottle of El Jim from a $50 bottle of my precious premium Patron. Disappointing but I'd add El Jim is pretty derned good cheap tequila. Patron's nom story is long and I'll spare you. The nerds also rejected Don Julio for a different reason. They were suspicious of the sweetness and found pictures of sugar cane trucks outside the nom. Were they selling a mixto as 100% blue agave? Dunno, but it sure was sweeter than other premiums. If you like that then no worries. What's so bad about a little splash of rum in your tequila?
I'll get to it and share the brands that really stood out to me, but first I should explain something since we can have different tastes. I'm drawn to a tasting note usually referred to as minerality, but also cement or wet cement or gravelly or just stone. It was true of my favorite wines before my favorite tequilas. The tequilas that really brought the minerality had several things in common that for me justified my taste. They only harvested agave that was 9 or 10 years old. Others harvest by size. They roasted their agave hearts in stone buildings (hornos) with raging wood fires. Really something fun to see. Others use commercial ovens. The best of them crushed the fire roasted hearts in circular stone pits with a donkey pulling a tahona (large stone wheel). Also cool to see and likely where that minerality develops.
El Tesoro (surprised it hasn't been mentioned. Was my favorite. Seen at the grocery store nowadays.
Highest rating on TotalWine's premium tequila page btw.)
Siete Leguas (in this thread once and a very close second. Highly recommended.)
Fortaleza/Los Abuelos (already mentioned a few times. small batches. old school process. great tequila)
Casa Noble (no donkey and stone wheel, but very old school, organic blue weber agave only, 36 hour roasts in stone ovens. good stuff)
Herradura's mid-shelf and premium products. (Clay ovens impart a unique minerality and pretty faithful to traditional methods)
I wanted to get the recs out of the way instead of saving them for last, but I'm having tequila nostalgia so I'll go on a little. My group from the Blue Agave forums became friends of Carlos Camarena, the owner/operator or La Altena, which is El Tesoro's nom/distillery. On our first trip there he was excited to meet the gringos who talked about premium tequila day and night. He invited us into his private lair and shared several of his off market tequilas while telling the story of premium tequila through the lense of La Altena/El Tesoro. In the late 1800s Herradura became the only producer of premium tequila. Everything else was just Mexican party fuel, mostly mixtos. His grandpa started El Tesoro in the late 30s to compete with Herradura. He believed he'd perfected the process and made the best tequila in the world. It was a struggle. Name recognition kept Herradura alone in the premium market and he sold his beautiful painstakingly made product for party fuel prices. In 1949 Don Julio entered the premium game and carved out a space next to Herradura. This frustrated grandpa to no end and he spent the rest of his life trying and failing to break into premium pricing. Before he passed in the 60s he made his son promise to never change the product. Never stop harvesting only the ripest agave, or roasting in the hornos with real wood, or crushing the hearts with the tahona. He was faithful to all of it and taught his son Carlos. From then until the late 80s El Tesoro carried on selling premium product for less than premium pricing, but their reputation had grown in the big cities of Mexico. They were getting a better price, but it still seemed unfair compared to the growing competition. Then in 1989 a miracle happened. The incredibly wealthy owner of a hair care company called Paul Mitchell contracted several noms to produce a premium tequila to be marketed in the US. Soon the floodgates opened for premium tequilas. Carlos's dad got to witness his father's dream come true. If you ever do a tequila tour in the great state of Jalisco, make La Altena your first priority.
Last thing, haha, sorry. Are you really reading all this? Pff. I really liked
@CletiusMaximus post above and he said something interesting and true, but also something Carlos taught us to see/taste differently:
For sipping, I think most people prefer something a bit smoother like the reposados (aged a few months) and anejo (aged at least one year). There’s nothing wrong with sipping blanco though. It’s a bit harsh but I think some people like that bite.
He only sips blancos, which he called platas (silvers). A taquilero can tell everything he needs to know by the plata he produces. Too vegetal? They didn't roast long enough or got the temps wrong. Bitter, harsh? They used young agave. And so on. So he taught us to TASTE blancos. Aged tequila has been altered in the process. Flaws can be hidden. Oak is introduced. It's hard to tell premium anejos apart as they get a little homogenized in the process. Anyway, give this wonderful tequilero and his traditional methods a shot.