Sand
Footballguy
IVV - 50%You manage your own portfolio heading into retirement. You can have 3-4 funds/ETF’s max. Go
IJR - 20%
IEV - 15%
JAAA - 15%
IVV - 50%You manage your own portfolio heading into retirement. You can have 3-4 funds/ETF’s max. Go
Yeah - I don't believe this one. Call it selection bias, overfitting, etc. Golden Butterfly - same thing.And a simplified risk parity style with 35% LCG, 35% SCV, 20% LT Treasuries, 10% Gold: 5.7% SWR
What success rate are you okay with?I know we've done this in here before, but I ran Monte Carlo analysis on Portfolio Visualizer on simplified versions of the first couple I suggested above based not on specific ETFs but on asset classes. Scenario is based on a 5.5% withdrawal rate (to push it a little) adjusted for inflation and 30 year timeframe, to show why just a little less simple should be appealing to someone looking to maximize SWR.
80% Total Stock/20% Total Bond: 81% survived all scenarios
60% Total Stock/40% Total Bond: 79% success rate
40% Large Cap Growth, 20% Small Cap Value, 20% LT Treasuries, 20% ST Treasuries: 89% success rate
And a simplified risk parity style with 35% LCG, 35% SCV, 20% LT Treasuries, 10% Gold: 93% success
Just was looking for simplicity if possible. Maybe not Boglehead but not too complicated. I’m openYou manage your own portfolio heading into retirement. You can have 3-4 funds/ETF’s max. Go
Why limit yourself to 3-4 funds?
If that's the rule we're going by, the Simple Path to Wealth folks would have you go VTI and BND in some version of 70/30 or 80/20.
I don't love that, particularly the BND fund as it includes 26% corporate bonds which are going to be more closely correlated to equities. It also has 22% mortgage bonds. I prefer Treasuries as less-correlated to equities. Also VTI has hardly any small cap value as it's cap weighted. So with just two more funds you could go with something like:
VTI - 40%
AVUV - 20%
TLT - 20%
SPTI - 20%
But I'm building in my primary IRA (65% of my retirement funds) towards a risk parity style portfolio, something more like:
65% Equities (trying to diversify as much as possible within this allocation without going too crazy):
15% Fixed Income (acts more like 22% when compared to TLT because of the extended duration) :
- VUG (large cap growth) - 25%
- AVUV (small cap value)- 20%
- REET (REITs) - 5%
- KBWP (Property/casualty) - 5%
- AVDV (Developed Value) - 5%
- AVES (Emerging Value) - 5%
15% - Alts
- EDV (25+ year Treasury strips fund) - 15%
5% Cash
- IAUM (gold) - 10%
- DBMF (managed futures) - 5%
But because this is fun for me I have slightly different allocations in smaller accounts that I'm still actively contributing to, taking on a little more risk with allocations like:
HSA: 24% AVGV, 16% UPRO (2x S&P), 18% IAUM, 18% DBMF, 24% EDV
ROTH 401K: 39% VBR, 39% VUG, 10% EDV, 8% UPRO, 4% FBTC
I wouldn't necessarily recommend my approach to others, as most people do want to simplify (let alone sprinkling in leveraged ETFs or Crypto). But I'll be rebalancing via withdrawals (sell high!), and I have re-balancing bands in place as well that may trigger above and beyond that. But that doesn't seem difficult to manage, especially as I will eventually consolidate the handful of rollover IRAs, 401Ks, Roths, and HSAs I have now into just three accounts.
There is definitely something to the Bond Tent/Rising Equity Glidepath approach that @Desert_Power just mentioned and we've talked about in here before. I may find myself feeling much more conservative in a few years as I get to 2-3 years out from 59 1/2 (I'm only a few months into 52 now) and decide to shift toward a higher fixed income allocation in line with that. I'd shift that from the equity allocation, with the goal of rebalancing/withdrawing my way back to 75/25 over 10 years or so.
Man 70% seems low. But maybe these financial planners have 98+% ingrained in our temporal a lobes so we keep pouring money inWhat success rate are you okay with?I know we've done this in here before, but I ran Monte Carlo analysis on Portfolio Visualizer on simplified versions of the first couple I suggested above based not on specific ETFs but on asset classes. Scenario is based on a 5.5% withdrawal rate (to push it a little) adjusted for inflation and 30 year timeframe, to show why just a little less simple should be appealing to someone looking to maximize SWR.
80% Total Stock/20% Total Bond: 81% survived all scenarios
60% Total Stock/40% Total Bond: 79% success rate
40% Large Cap Growth, 20% Small Cap Value, 20% LT Treasuries, 20% ST Treasuries: 89% success rate
And a simplified risk parity style with 35% LCG, 35% SCV, 20% LT Treasuries, 10% Gold: 93% success
I’d be good with all those, anything above 70% works imo if you’re flexible.
And that’s based on what? I didn’t look for a sweet spot to match the data, just plugged in a basic portfolio. The data is the data. If you believe the 4% rule based on the data, why wouldn’t you believe optimizing portfolios based on that same data could produce higher SWR, like the actual inventor of the thing now believes.Yeah - I don't believe this one. Call it selection bias, overfitting, etc. Golden Butterfly - same thing.And a simplified risk parity style with 35% LCG, 35% SCV, 20% LT Treasuries, 10% Gold: 5.7% SWR
Totally agree. There are those that believe a 50% success rate, with guardrails built in, is sufficient. 75ish with guardrails feels right to me, but I’m not smart enough to back that with math.What success rate are you okay with?I know we've done this in here before, but I ran Monte Carlo analysis on Portfolio Visualizer on simplified versions of the first couple I suggested above based not on specific ETFs but on asset classes. Scenario is based on a 5.5% withdrawal rate (to push it a little) adjusted for inflation and 30 year timeframe, to show why just a little less simple should be appealing to someone looking to maximize SWR.
80% Total Stock/20% Total Bond: 81% survived all scenarios
60% Total Stock/40% Total Bond: 79% success rate
40% Large Cap Growth, 20% Small Cap Value, 20% LT Treasuries, 20% ST Treasuries: 89% success rate
And a simplified risk parity style with 35% LCG, 35% SCV, 20% LT Treasuries, 10% Gold: 93% success
I’d be good with all those, anything above 70% works imo if you’re flexible.
Ding ding ding. Follow the money. Traditional financial planning , “we do better when you do better” is based on maximizing assets under management. That’s not a horrible thing, it leads to you ending up with a bunch of money when you die which is obviously better than running out. But it also leads to you leaving lots of life/experiences/gifts/charity/whatever on the table. Let alone the tens of thousands in AUM fees and the missing compounding in your investments it costs you.Man 70% seems low. But maybe these financial planners have 98+% ingrained in our temporal a lobes so we keep pouring money inWhat success rate are you okay with?I know we've done this in here before, but I ran Monte Carlo analysis on Portfolio Visualizer on simplified versions of the first couple I suggested above based not on specific ETFs but on asset classes. Scenario is based on a 5.5% withdrawal rate (to push it a little) adjusted for inflation and 30 year timeframe, to show why just a little less simple should be appealing to someone looking to maximize SWR.
80% Total Stock/20% Total Bond: 81% survived all scenarios
60% Total Stock/40% Total Bond: 79% success rate
40% Large Cap Growth, 20% Small Cap Value, 20% LT Treasuries, 20% ST Treasuries: 89% success rate
And a simplified risk parity style with 35% LCG, 35% SCV, 20% LT Treasuries, 10% Gold: 93% success
I’d be good with all those, anything above 70% works imo if you’re flexible.
“Failure” means needing to adjust. If you get on the highway, do you set cruise control at a speed you’re 98% likely to not need to adjust? Or do you drive a speed you’re comfortable with and slow down if needed?Man 70% seems low. But maybe these financial planners have 98+% ingrained in our temporal a lobes so we keep pouring money in
I just think these macro tends will shift. I don't think SCV will perform as previous, in particular. Just my personal opinion.And that’s based on what? I didn’t look for a sweet spot to match the data, just plugged in a basic portfolio. The data is the data. If you believe the 4% rule based on the data, why wouldn’t you believe optimizing portfolios based on that same data could produce higher SWR, like the actual inventor of the thing now believes.Yeah - I don't believe this one. Call it selection bias, overfitting, etc. Golden Butterfly - same thing.And a simplified risk parity style with 35% LCG, 35% SCV, 20% LT Treasuries, 10% Gold: 5.7% SWR
I’m all about challenging these things, and I think the biggest hole in these types of portfolios could be the SCV premium/outperformance. But the data in the data. So we’d need something to definitively prove that the historical premium, that comes from betting on smaller less-proven companies that have more inherent risk therefore should demand a higher reward, is no longer valid. Which just isn’t what we typically see.
I just think these macro tends will shift. I don't think SCV will perform as previous, in particular. Just my personal opinion.And that’s based on what? I didn’t look for a sweet spot to match the data, just plugged in a basic portfolio. The data is the data. If you believe the 4% rule based on the data, why wouldn’t you believe optimizing portfolios based on that same data could produce higher SWR, like the actual inventor of the thing now believes.Yeah - I don't believe this one. Call it selection bias, overfitting, etc. Golden Butterfly - same thing.And a simplified risk parity style with 35% LCG, 35% SCV, 20% LT Treasuries, 10% Gold: 5.7% SWR
I’m all about challenging these things, and I think the biggest hole in these types of portfolios could be the SCV premium/outperformance. But the data in the data. So we’d need something to definitively prove that the historical premium, that comes from betting on smaller less-proven companies that have more inherent risk therefore should demand a higher reward, is no longer valid. Which just isn’t what we typically see.
That said for your first two using a dynamic strategy gets you likely into the 5% withdrawal regime easily. That ain't bad.
For me, at least, will be VPW as the guideline. It's pretty straightforward and implementable. They calculate a max and conservative min - we'll be aiming for expenditures inside that band.
Then comes the decision on how to build the flexibility into the plan. Is it guardrails? Lower the annual inflation adjustment? Monte Carlo it every single year and adjust from there? Lots of ideas out there. But like most things in life, the more flexibility and optionality built into the plan, the better off you're likely to be.
Have you had a chance to listen to the bolded?Need book recommendations.
Ones I've read recently:
All About Asset Allocation
Boglehead's Guide to Retirement Planning
All About Index Funds
The Psychology of Money
One Up on Wall Street
The Simple Path to Wealth
Quit Like a Millionaire
Die With Zero
Up Next:
The Millionaire Next Door
Is Rich Day Poor Dad any good? Seems like some like it and some hate it.
More accumulation focused than for you on the precipice of retirement, but Just Keep Buying by Maggiulli was pretty good.
How Much Money Do I Need to Retire by Tresidder and Retirement Planning Guidebook by Pfau are in my Amazon cart right now. Can't remember where I saw those recs, but dropped them in there when I did. Anybody read either of those?
I also have How to Retire Happy, Wild, and Free by Zelinski and The Algebra of Wealth by Galloway on Audible, haven't started either of those yet. Same with Simple Path to Wealth.
I need to retire so I have time to read/listen to all of these books......
Have you had a chance to listen to the bolded?Need book recommendations.
Ones I've read recently:
All About Asset Allocation
Boglehead's Guide to Retirement Planning
All About Index Funds
The Psychology of Money
One Up on Wall Street
The Simple Path to Wealth
Quit Like a Millionaire
Die With Zero
Up Next:
The Millionaire Next Door
Is Rich Day Poor Dad any good? Seems like some like it and some hate it.
More accumulation focused than for you on the precipice of retirement, but Just Keep Buying by Maggiulli was pretty good.
How Much Money Do I Need to Retire by Tresidder and Retirement Planning Guidebook by Pfau are in my Amazon cart right now. Can't remember where I saw those recs, but dropped them in there when I did. Anybody read either of those?
I also have How to Retire Happy, Wild, and Free by Zelinski and The Algebra of Wealth by Galloway on Audible, haven't started either of those yet. Same with Simple Path to Wealth.
I need to retire so I have time to read/listen to all of these books......
I have an Audible credit coming up and was looking for something like this. I'm pretty much set financially and wanted something more about how to prepare mentally for retirement beyond the usual checklist of "exercise, eat right, get sleep, volunteer, etc."
I was looking at How to Retire by Christine Benz but the reviews of the narration are really bad so I'll probably read the book.
Huh. I listened to this on Audible and I thought the narration was unremarkable. They used one male narrator and one female narrator as stand-ins for each author, so everyone sounded the same, but that didn't bother me.I was looking at How to Retire by Christine Benz but the reviews of the narration are really bad so I'll probably read the book.
Sounds like Required Minimum Distributions from a traditional IRA. Just a guess but that would be very common for people in their 70s.Have a meeting tomorrow to sit down with a professional, Mrs and I have always done it on our own and we do OK but we need some professional guidance
-The saddest part of investing over a long period of time and I'll just say it, being the first in your family to shoot for a comfortable retirement/7 figures is that once you accumulate all this money and assets, you're likely on the back 9 and perhaps even the last 3-4 holes if you're lucky
It's just kind of sad we work our entire lives to make this little pile of money in the hopes of having a much better end of life than we have seen others go thru
I feel the health side of retirement is almost as important as the financial side and some ways even more important.
-We're both 50, we plan on doing a pivot towards our mid to late 50s, have a small business to operate under and not have to dip into retirement quite yet.
Example: Mrs-Realtor, MOP-Mtg Broker). Another is going in together to run a small bar/nightclub(no food!) and play the music we want to hear
I have a good friend that just turned 75 and he still owns a company and works pretty diligent M-F and especially early in the morning from like 7am-early afternoon
He runs a small shipping company. He tells me how he has to start draining the investments or move them into other things. i don't understand it all but it's almost like he's forced to not allow continued growth on his money. I guess all 401Ks must be drained over time?
Like I said, we're going to get some professional help to clear some of these mysteries and also try and limit the damage taxes will have later in our lives.
We likely would have enough money to retire on already if I went back in time but we also made some conscious decisions to have a little less invested but more in our hands to enjoy
To live in the moment and not just work and invest and never have any fun or wait until your 60 years old to take your first real vacation, we still spend too much and should likely be putting even more away than we do, I'm sure we're gonna hear about it tomorrow
Lot of factors and individual choice/preference plays into a lot of the decisions folks make abut when they would like to retire or transition away from being company property
That's it, sounds like what he talks aboutSounds like Required Minimum Distributions from a traditional IRA. Just a guess but that would be very common for people in their 70s.Have a meeting tomorrow to sit down with a professional, Mrs and I have always done it on our own and we do OK but we need some professional guidance
-The saddest part of investing over a long period of time and I'll just say it, being the first in your family to shoot for a comfortable retirement/7 figures is that once you accumulate all this money and assets, you're likely on the back 9 and perhaps even the last 3-4 holes if you're lucky
It's just kind of sad we work our entire lives to make this little pile of money in the hopes of having a much better end of life than we have seen others go thru
I feel the health side of retirement is almost as important as the financial side and some ways even more important.
-We're both 50, we plan on doing a pivot towards our mid to late 50s, have a small business to operate under and not have to dip into retirement quite yet.
Example: Mrs-Realtor, MOP-Mtg Broker). Another is going in together to run a small bar/nightclub(no food!) and play the music we want to hear
I have a good friend that just turned 75 and he still owns a company and works pretty diligent M-F and especially early in the morning from like 7am-early afternoon
He runs a small shipping company. He tells me how he has to start draining the investments or move them into other things. i don't understand it all but it's almost like he's forced to not allow continued growth on his money. I guess all 401Ks must be drained over time?
Like I said, we're going to get some professional help to clear some of these mysteries and also try and limit the damage taxes will have later in our lives.
We likely would have enough money to retire on already if I went back in time but we also made some conscious decisions to have a little less invested but more in our hands to enjoy
To live in the moment and not just work and invest and never have any fun or wait until your 60 years old to take your first real vacation, we still spend too much and should likely be putting even more away than we do, I'm sure we're gonna hear about it tomorrow
Lot of factors and individual choice/preference plays into a lot of the decisions folks make abut when they would like to retire or transition away from being company property
I struggle with overthinking this, and don't want to find myself turning down part time income opportunities because I'm worrying too much about my income going over some threshold (I will have a pension that doesn't give me a lot of room). I'm leaning towards doing whatever it is that makes me happy and then leaving it in the hands of my advisor to sort out the best tax strategy. If I pay extra in taxes, that's OK, it won't break me.Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I haven't fleshed out my full plan yet, but as I also want to retire in my early-mid 50s (tomorrow would be nice) it'll be living off of a little income from something, already taxed money from normal brokerage accounts and paying long-term capital gains taxes (likely 15% but it could be zero depending), and converting Trad to Roth while income is low to keep it in the first tax bracket or three.
It's a juggling act trying to have enough income to get up out of Medicaid with not too much to bump up into higher LTCG and income tax brackets while still having access to ACA subsidies (assuming they still exist). If you can thread that needle you could end up paying very, very little in taxes, stretching those retirement dollars. And pretty sure you need software, or a professional (I'm working on it!), to pull that off.
Why? Unless you're under 55 and have everything in retirement accounts you should be good. If under 55 and you have taxable account monies just sell appreciated stock. If you're 55-59.5 do that and maybe a 72t distribution. If over 59.5 do taxable sales and tax deferred withdrawals. Boom, done.It's a juggling act trying to have enough income to get up out of Medicaid with not too much to bump up into higher LTCG and income tax brackets while still having access to ACA subsidies (assuming they still exist). If you can thread that needle you could end up paying very, very little in taxes, stretching those retirement dollars. And pretty sure you need software, or a professional (I'm working on it!), to pull that off.
If under 55 and you have taxable account monies just sell appreciated stock.
I struggle with overthinking this, and don't want to find myself turning down part time income opportunities because I'm worrying too much about my income going over some threshold (I will have a pension that doesn't give me a lot of room). I'm leaning towards doing whatever it is that makes me happy and then leaving it in the hands of my advisor to sort out the best tax strategy. If I pay extra in taxes, that's OK, it won't break me.
Yep.It's just kind of sad we work our entire lives to make this little pile of money in the hopes of having a much better end of life than we have seen others go thru
I feel the health side of retirement is almost as important as the financial side and some ways even more important.
Dividends and interest also count, so that has to be managed.If under 55 and you have taxable account monies just sell appreciated stock.
Just did a little more digging, and you're right - capital gains are included in MAGI, which is what Medicaid and the ACA subsidies are each based on. So it's a little simpler than I was thinking. Sell some stock to live on, pay the LTCG (but not income) tax, but your LTCG do count as part of your MAGI.
You can't roll over enough 401k to Roth without messing up the MAGI and ACA. And the cliff is back starting next year. 10 years and I still can't get it all rolled over.Dividends and interest also count, so that has to be managed.If under 55 and you have taxable account monies just sell appreciated stock.
Just did a little more digging, and you're right - capital gains are included in MAGI, which is what Medicaid and the ACA subsidies are each based on. So it's a little simpler than I was thinking. Sell some stock to live on, pay the LTCG (but not income) tax, but your LTCG do count as part of your MAGI.
Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
Ah, nm then. My thinking was that my marginal rate would be 22% either post 65 or when taking rmds so it didn't matter if i just waited until 73 to do the conversion. If i can't convert the rmd and am just stuck with contributing the max from the rmd, then forget it. I guess the key if am at the 22% marginal rate is to convert just enough to keep me from getting hit with rmds.Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I don't believe you can use RMDs as the source for Roth conversions, if that's what you're asking. So you'd have to take out your RMD AND whatever you'd be converting, so that's definitely going to bump up your taxes.
The time to do conversions is when taxable income is lowest. Stuff the 12/22/24% bracket to the top, depending on where you are sitting. Ideally before you start taking SS.
Do you have already taxed/brokerage funds to use early on, at least in conjunction with Roth to keep you in the ACA sweet spot? I know a lot of people, and I'd still put myself in this category but I've been trying to address it, have most of their funds tied up in Trad/Roth accounts and not much in taxable.
RMDs aren’t earned income. If you want to contribute to the IRA, you’ll need to work. Edit - I think I was wrong about rentals unless you’re paying yourself from an LLC or something for managing it. I think…contributing the max from the rmd,
More reason that my original idea was terribleRMDs aren’t earned income. If you want to contribute to the IRA, you’ll need to work. Edit - I think I was wrong about rentals unless you’re paying yourself from an LLC or something for managing it. I think…contributing the max from the rmd,
re: using brokerage early on, i thought that's considered when determining aca qualification?
You ever play around with one of these RMD calculators? According to one on the schwab site, if I was 73 now with a 2M trad balance, I'm only looking at an rmd of 75k. That's less than a 4% withdrawal rate. So filing as married, that's just in the 12% bracket. I know that balance is arbitrary but that doesn't seem like something to be too concerned about.Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I don't believe you can use RMDs as the source for Roth conversions, if that's what you're asking. So you'd have to take out your RMD AND whatever you'd be converting, so that's definitely going to bump up your taxes.
The time to do conversions is when taxable income is lowest. Stuff the 12/22/24% bracket to the top, depending on where you are sitting. Ideally before you start taking SS.
Do you have already taxed/brokerage funds to use early on, at least in conjunction with Roth to keep you in the ACA sweet spot? I know a lot of people, and I'd still put myself in this category but I've been trying to address it, have most of their funds tied up in Trad/Roth accounts and not much in taxable.
It goes up exponentially from there, though.You ever play around with one of these RMD calculators? According to one on the schwab site, if I was 73 now with a 2M trad balance, I'm only looking at an rmd of 75k. That's less than a 4% withdrawal rate. So filing as married, that's just in the 12% bracket. I know that balance is arbitrary but that doesn't seem like something to be too concerned about.Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I don't believe you can use RMDs as the source for Roth conversions, if that's what you're asking. So you'd have to take out your RMD AND whatever you'd be converting, so that's definitely going to bump up your taxes.
The time to do conversions is when taxable income is lowest. Stuff the 12/22/24% bracket to the top, depending on where you are sitting. Ideally before you start taking SS.
Do you have already taxed/brokerage funds to use early on, at least in conjunction with Roth to keep you in the ACA sweet spot? I know a lot of people, and I'd still put myself in this category but I've been trying to address it, have most of their funds tied up in Trad/Roth accounts and not much in taxable.
Ok, but even 2M at 83, its 112k. Still doesn't seem like a big deal. Probably more than I'd need considering my traveling days are most likely behind me and provided I didn't need some in home care, but at that point, I'd just donate some of it. I'd think in theory your balance should be going down too, no? So say you're down to 1.5M at 83 and then 1M at 93 if you live that long, that makes the RMDs 85k and 99k respectively.It goes up exponentially from there, though.You ever play around with one of these RMD calculators? According to one on the schwab site, if I was 73 now with a 2M trad balance, I'm only looking at an rmd of 75k. That's less than a 4% withdrawal rate. So filing as married, that's just in the 12% bracket. I know that balance is arbitrary but that doesn't seem like something to be too concerned about.Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I don't believe you can use RMDs as the source for Roth conversions, if that's what you're asking. So you'd have to take out your RMD AND whatever you'd be converting, so that's definitely going to bump up your taxes.
The time to do conversions is when taxable income is lowest. Stuff the 12/22/24% bracket to the top, depending on where you are sitting. Ideally before you start taking SS.
Do you have already taxed/brokerage funds to use early on, at least in conjunction with Roth to keep you in the ACA sweet spot? I know a lot of people, and I'd still put myself in this category but I've been trying to address it, have most of their funds tied up in Trad/Roth accounts and not much in taxable.
Ok, but even 2M at 83, its 112k. Still doesn't seem like a big deal. Probably more than I'd need considering my traveling days are most likely behind me and provided I didn't need some in home care, but at that point, I'd just donate some of it. I'd think in theory your balance should be going down too, no? So say you're down to 1.5M at 83 and then 1M at 93 if you live that long, that makes the RMDs 85k and 99k respectively.It goes up exponentially from there, though.You ever play around with one of these RMD calculators? According to one on the schwab site, if I was 73 now with a 2M trad balance, I'm only looking at an rmd of 75k. That's less than a 4% withdrawal rate. So filing as married, that's just in the 12% bracket. I know that balance is arbitrary but that doesn't seem like something to be too concerned about.Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I don't believe you can use RMDs as the source for Roth conversions, if that's what you're asking. So you'd have to take out your RMD AND whatever you'd be converting, so that's definitely going to bump up your taxes.
The time to do conversions is when taxable income is lowest. Stuff the 12/22/24% bracket to the top, depending on where you are sitting. Ideally before you start taking SS.
Do you have already taxed/brokerage funds to use early on, at least in conjunction with Roth to keep you in the ACA sweet spot? I know a lot of people, and I'd still put myself in this category but I've been trying to address it, have most of their funds tied up in Trad/Roth accounts and not much in taxable.
Ok, but even 2M at 83, its 112k. Still doesn't seem like a big deal. Probably more than I'd need considering my traveling days are most likely behind me and provided I didn't need some in home care, but at that point, I'd just donate some of it. I'd think in theory your balance should be going down too, no? So say you're down to 1.5M at 83 and then 1M at 93 if you live that long, that makes the RMDs 85k and 99k respectively.It goes up exponentially from there, though.You ever play around with one of these RMD calculators? According to one on the schwab site, if I was 73 now with a 2M trad balance, I'm only looking at an rmd of 75k. That's less than a 4% withdrawal rate. So filing as married, that's just in the 12% bracket. I know that balance is arbitrary but that doesn't seem like something to be too concerned about.Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I don't believe you can use RMDs as the source for Roth conversions, if that's what you're asking. So you'd have to take out your RMD AND whatever you'd be converting, so that's definitely going to bump up your taxes.
The time to do conversions is when taxable income is lowest. Stuff the 12/22/24% bracket to the top, depending on where you are sitting. Ideally before you start taking SS.
Do you have already taxed/brokerage funds to use early on, at least in conjunction with Roth to keep you in the ACA sweet spot? I know a lot of people, and I'd still put myself in this category but I've been trying to address it, have most of their funds tied up in Trad/Roth accounts and not much in taxable.
Moreover we have to think of how large the 10/12% brackets will be that far in the future. I mean go back 20 years and look at how small the lower brackets were compared to today, then project that out 20 years in the future. I mean it could be $250k for a married couple (after whatever the standard deduction grows to at that point) before getting to a 20+% bracket.
The very first thing you need to know is your spend.All you guys geeking out on 401’s and magi’s, what’s the approx net worth range to live comfortably and retire at 57 in 5 yrs?
All you guys geeking out on 401’s and magi’s, what’s the approx net worth range to live comfortably and retire at 57 in 5 yrs?
Another factor I don't see mentioned much is how long you financially plan to live. It take a lot less money to plan to live to 80 than it does to live to 100. I personally plan for the latter b/c i never want to run out of money.All you guys geeking out on 401’s and magi’s, what’s the approx net worth range to live comfortably and retire at 57 in 5 yrs?
So many factors. First is what you’ll need to spend each month to determine how big of a nest egg you’ll need to produce it. Next would be changes in that spend (finally paying off the house, kids no longer dependents, SS starting up). Then is where that net worth is located - Roth or traditional or after tax. Could be anywhere from $1m to $10m.
Possibly. But if average returns are 10%, your RMD doesn’t exceed 10% until you’re 94. Which is good, with some bonds and sequence of returns risk you don’t want to have to take 10% every year, but on average your account will grow into your 90s if you’re just taking RMDs.think in theory your balance should be going down too, no?
nother factor I don't see mentioned much is how long you financially plan to live. It take a lot less money to plan to live to 80 than it does to live to 100. I personally plan for the latter b/c i never want to run out of money.
Ok, but even 2M at 83, its 112k. Still doesn't seem like a big deal. Probably more than I'd need considering my traveling days are most likely behind me and provided I didn't need some in home care, but at that point, I'd just donate some of it. I'd think in theory your balance should be going down too, no? So say you're down to 1.5M at 83 and then 1M at 93 if you live that long, that makes the RMDs 85k and 99k respectively.It goes up exponentially from there, though.You ever play around with one of these RMD calculators? According to one on the schwab site, if I was 73 now with a 2M trad balance, I'm only looking at an rmd of 75k. That's less than a 4% withdrawal rate. So filing as married, that's just in the 12% bracket. I know that balance is arbitrary but that doesn't seem like something to be too concerned about.Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I don't believe you can use RMDs as the source for Roth conversions, if that's what you're asking. So you'd have to take out your RMD AND whatever you'd be converting, so that's definitely going to bump up your taxes.
The time to do conversions is when taxable income is lowest. Stuff the 12/22/24% bracket to the top, depending on where you are sitting. Ideally before you start taking SS.
Do you have already taxed/brokerage funds to use early on, at least in conjunction with Roth to keep you in the ACA sweet spot? I know a lot of people, and I'd still put myself in this category but I've been trying to address it, have most of their funds tied up in Trad/Roth accounts and not much in taxable.
Moreover we have to think of how large the 10/12% brackets will be that far in the future. I mean go back 20 years and look at how small the lower brackets were compared to today, then project that out 20 years in the future. I mean it could be $250k for a married couple (after whatever the standard deduction grows to at that point) before getting to a 20+% bracket.
Are you building in potential portfolio growth between now and 73? But in general I agree, for most people worrying about things like RMDs and IRMMA is probably not going to be worth the trouble.
But for FBGs that have saved aggressively, it's worth looking into and, potentially, doing some planning. For the average American, not an issue at all (unfortunately).
And all we can do is plan using today's regulations. I'm 52, much of this stuff is 20+ years in the future, who the hell knows what the regulations will be at that time.
Essentially yes.Can anyone explain what the safe harbor rule is in a situation where I'm going to have large capital gains in 2025? To avoid under payment penalty?
Is all I have to do is make one early payment to equal over 100% of the tax I paid in 2024 and then keep the rest invested until April 15th 2026?
Yeah, but when you're 102 it really starts to sting.Ok, but even 2M at 83, its 112k.It goes up exponentially from there, though.You ever play around with one of these RMD calculators? According to one on the schwab site, if I was 73 now with a 2M trad balance, I'm only looking at an rmd of 75k. That's less than a 4% withdrawal rate. So filing as married, that's just in the 12% bracket. I know that balance is arbitrary but that doesn't seem like something to be too concerned about.Was just thinking about this. For me as it stands now, I'm gonna chew through most of my roth pre-65 to get obamacare subsidies. So come 65 and up until rmd time, I'm looking at mostly taxable income. This will certainly put me into the 22% bracket. I'll need to revisit what would be the rmd amount, but unless it puts me in the 24% bracket, I see no reason not just to wait until rmd time to do that conversion. You see a flaw in my thought process?Yup, RMDs are why the traditional advice of burn through taxable accounts first, then traditional 401k/IRAs, then Roth isn't always best. Sometimes it's better to spend down the traditional accounts in your 60s or convert to Roth in your early retirement years so that you don't end up with RMDs much bigger than you need to fund your life, and the taxes that come with that.
I don't believe you can use RMDs as the source for Roth conversions, if that's what you're asking. So you'd have to take out your RMD AND whatever you'd be converting, so that's definitely going to bump up your taxes.
The time to do conversions is when taxable income is lowest. Stuff the 12/22/24% bracket to the top, depending on where you are sitting. Ideally before you start taking SS.
Do you have already taxed/brokerage funds to use early on, at least in conjunction with Roth to keep you in the ACA sweet spot? I know a lot of people, and I'd still put myself in this category but I've been trying to address it, have most of their funds tied up in Trad/Roth accounts and not much in taxable.
Ok, if you're just taking the RMD it will keep going up. So I'd probably be taking than that and just donate it. Or just pay what I think would be the 22% rate. Seems like a good problem to have. Do you think a 10% return rate is something you'd be seeking in your 80's in beyond? I'd think something considerably more conservative as long as I can make it to that 100 mark comfortably. Its just kind of funny to me the idea of reducing taxes so that you have even more money that you don't need.Possibly. But if average returns are 10%, your RMD doesn’t exceed 10% until you’re 94. Which is good, with some bonds and sequence of returns risk you don’t want to have to take 10% every year, but on average your account will grow into your 90s if you’re just taking RMDs.think in theory your balance should be going down too, no?
My girlfriend is 3 years older than me so hopefully that condenses the male/female mortality gap a bit. It does complicate things. The easy plan for me was always to just use my house as LTC payment, but not the same option if there's someone else living there.nother factor I don't see mentioned much is how long you financially plan to live. It take a lot less money to plan to live to 80 than it does to live to 100. I personally plan for the latter b/c i never want to run out of money.
Yep. And it’s even harder when you’re a couple, the lifetime of the oldest / last to die will almost always be at least a few years after the first.